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Old 16th June 2010, 18:07   #16
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V-16, Thanks again for your valuable inputs.
As you rightly said, the people here wanted to use TQ oil only for the AT too but i have insisted that it be changed with the recommended oil only.
Regarding transmission filters, have ordered it and they said it would take atleast 3 days for it to reach me.
So till then i think i got to keep my beauty like what it is nowAnyways better late than never and your advice has really helped me to understand with the quality of mechanics i've been dealing with so far.
Shall post you with an update very soon
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These engines are not at all sluggish. Of course you cannot compare them with the cdi engines of today but the 240D holds its fort. Anyone who says these kind of engines are like that only is leading you on a wrong path, trust me.



As Ajmat has rightfully advised, change the transmission oil. I would go a step further and attribute this behaviour to a clogged transmission filter too. Beware, a lot of persons will put in TQ oil, that is the regular power steering oil, which does work in emergencies but i would get the original DB transmission fluid/oil and top it up. It should cost you in the vicinity of Rs: 475-600/- range. The transmission filter will cost you between Rs: 750-1200/-
The first thing to do when you buy a pre-owned car is to change all the fluids, yes all. Engine oil (replace with synthetic), transmission, brake and radiator fluids. Change all the filters, petrol, transmission, oil, air. Now see the difference.

If the problem still persists, get the band setting of the gear shifting set. I dont think this is the problem though because you say the car does not jerk while shifting.




Change your mechanic. Obviously anyone who is advising you to carbonize after every 2.5K kms does not know his job. Sometimes, in an older car and a car that has clocked large mileage, it is better not to decarbonise the engine until ready for a partial or full over haul, as if done, problems arise. In these cases, it might be the carbon deposits actually blocking leaks from worn out places.




no top up, change the oil and filters.




It is important to get the pump setting and calibration done by an expert. Any one else toying with these pumps might actually make the problem worse. IMHO, you might just need a gentle service at the max.




NO NO NO NO NO NO.......NO!! just forget about this option please!! Dont even consider it.

As Ajmat pointed out parts are really cheap and available so go ahead and rectify whatever is wrong now.
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Old 24th July 2010, 20:03   #17
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Default Sorry for the delay/wanted advise desperately

Brothers, have left my 123 Benz in a garage and they have listed me a list of things to be done
1. Engine is running decompressed and the best solution according to them is to swap an om616 ....can i go with that?
Another suggestion was to go in for the turbo charged engine, which alone is said to cost around 65k? help me am confused!
2. A diaphragm in the auto tranny is weak as well as the filter so would need to change both.
3. Suspension and brakes need some minor replacements and re fitment.
4. Running boards and a part of flooring to be replaced and painted.
5.interior cleaning to be done.
and to top it all, he has given me an estimate of around 45 to 50k for all the job to be done in a time span of not more than 20 days.
Please advise me as should i go for it?
p.s: they also happen to be my friends relatives and honesty can be vouched for their replacement parts and after service support
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Old 26th July 2010, 17:46   #18
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Benzbala, my suggestion for now based on inputs from you till date.

1) Engine swap - hold for now.
2) Auto diaphragm and filter - change.
3) Suspenstion and brakes - refit and do the minor replacements.
4) running board and flooring - hold for now - if the car works fine mechanically after above works go ahead and do it.
5) Interior cleaning - do after the others works are done or before putting it up for further sale.

If the car works fine after the auto x mission work you may not need to work on the engine inspite of the compression review. How was the compression checked? Are we sure of this analysis.

The work on the car seems to equal the cars value today. Some snaps of the condition would indicate if this kind of expenditure is deserved or it is better to cut the loses and sell and move out.
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Old 27th July 2010, 01:29   #19
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Note from the Team-BHP Support Staff: Post Deleted. Typing a message which is not a value-addition to the topic being discussed, or is just entirely irrelevant is considered as “Spam” on this community. Spamming is STRICTLY prohibited on Team-BHP.

Last edited by Rudra Sen : 27th July 2010 at 10:55.
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Old 27th July 2010, 12:01   #20
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Benzbala, my suggestion for now based on inputs from you till date.

1) Engine swap - hold for now.
2) Auto diaphragm and filter - change.
3) Suspenstion and brakes - refit and do the minor replacements.
4) running board and flooring - hold for now - if the car works fine mechanically after above works go ahead and do it.
5) Interior cleaning - do after the others works are done or before putting it up for further sale.

If the car works fine after the auto x mission work you may not need to work on the engine inspite of the compression review. How was the compression checked? Are we sure of this analysis.

The work on the car seems to equal the cars value today. Some snaps of the condition would indicate if this kind of expenditure is deserved or it is better to cut the loses and sell and move out.
As of now , the engine swap has been delayed and all other works are being carried out. the best part is, its being done in the order you have mentioned. regarding pictures, i have given my car for these works in a place 150kms from my place. shall definetly post the wip in the first week of august.
if the oil dipstick is pulled out when the engine is running, smoke comes out of it like a steam engine.
shall keep you guys posted and regarding the amount of money being spent, is that this is one of my childhood dreams and am making sure that this beauty stays with me for a long long time and moreover, am bitten by the sentimental bug where my better half and kid along with my parents have asked me not to sell this beauty instead restore that to its glorious ways!!
Thats the main reason am working on this car because i got a better offer within the first month of me purchasing it, but i declined.
With valuable inputs from learned gurus like you all, am sure that id be able to maintain it with all glory.
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Old 28th July 2010, 11:35   #21
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Originally Posted by benzbala View Post
As of now , the engine swap has been delayed and all other works are being carried out. the best part is, its being done in the order you have mentioned. regarding pictures, i have given my car for these works in a place 150kms from my place. shall definetly post the wip in the first week of august.
if the oil dipstick is pulled out when the engine is running, smoke comes out of it like a steam engine.
shall keep you guys posted and regarding the amount of money being spent, is that this is one of my childhood dreams and am making sure that this beauty stays with me for a long long time and moreover, am bitten by the sentimental bug where my better half and kid along with my parents have asked me not to sell this beauty instead restore that to its glorious ways!!
Thats the main reason am working on this car because i got a better offer within the first month of me purchasing it, but i declined.
With valuable inputs from learned gurus like you all, am sure that id be able to maintain it with all glory.

i wish your car runs like a mercedes runs ,soon .i suggest you, do not give up, and appreciate your efforts too,the efforts will be fruitfull and you and your family will soon enjoy a delightfull and a proud ride ,the queen is the queen no matter how old is she,and so is the mercedes.
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Old 28th July 2010, 12:48   #22
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i wish your car runs like a mercedes runs ,soon .i suggest you, do not give up, and appreciate your efforts too,the efforts will be fruitfull and you and your family will soon enjoy a delightfull and a proud ride ,the queen is the queen no matter how old is she,and so is the mercedes.
I totally agree with your views and hopefully my car should be back within the 10th of august.
Shall post the pics of the "queen" as and when its ready for the photo shoot
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Old 5th October 2010, 19:22   #23
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Sorry for the delayed query....but help needed desperately!
I've completely overhauled the engine, suspension and gearbox and now the prob is, in "D", the gears seem to change more sooner than ud expect..... just when you would feel the car pulling itself from a stop, the gear changes and the car becomes sluggish..... whereas in the "S" mode i dont feel any loss of power
Gurus pls help me out
P.S: have not taken delivery of the car since i didnt want to take a chance with this error
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Old 6th October 2010, 01:52   #24
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this is no major issue, it is the vacuum modulator that is the culprit here. this device tells the transmission when to shift. the reason this is happening is the reduced pressure, less pressure leads to early and softer shifts. locate the modulator and remove the cap, you will find a small "T" sticking out turn it clockwise to increase the pressure. but before you make any adjustments you need to check your car's vacuum system for any leaks.

ok i just found this on http://www.familycar.com/transmission.htm
The Vacuum Modulator monitors engine vacuum by a rubber vacuum hose which is connected to the engine. Engine vacuum reacts very accurately to engine load with high vacuum produced when the engine is under light load and diminishing down to zero vacuum when the engine is under a heavy load. The modulator is attached to the outside of the transmission case and has a shaft which passes through the case and attaches to the throttle valve in the valve body. When an engine is under a light load or no load, high vacuum acts on the modulator which moves the throttle valve in one direction to allow the transmission to shift early and soft. As the engine load increases, vacuum is diminished which moves the valve in the other direction causing the transmission to shift later and more firmly.

Last edited by msaudf : 6th October 2010 at 02:04. Reason: addition
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Old 6th October 2010, 06:42   #25
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this is no major issue, it is the vacuum modulator that is the culprit here. this device tells the transmission when to shift. the reason this is happening is the reduced pressure, less pressure leads to early and softer shifts. locate the modulator and remove the cap, you will find a small "T" sticking out turn it clockwise to increase the pressure. but before you make any adjustments you need to check your car's vacuum system for any leaks.

ok i just found this on Automatic Transmissions A Short Course on How They Work
The Vacuum Modulator monitors engine vacuum by a rubber vacuum hose which is connected to the engine. Engine vacuum reacts very accurately to engine load with high vacuum produced when the engine is under light load and diminishing down to zero vacuum when the engine is under a heavy load. The modulator is attached to the outside of the transmission case and has a shaft which passes through the case and attaches to the throttle valve in the valve body. When an engine is under a light load or no load, high vacuum acts on the modulator which moves the throttle valve in one direction to allow the transmission to shift early and soft. As the engine load increases, vacuum is diminished which moves the valve in the other direction causing the transmission to shift later and more firmly.
Thank you very much for your valubale inputs. shall do that and post the feedback. btw, W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum gave me an insight on how to DIY on this topic but if for you, i even went to the extent of thinking of changing to a manual tranny
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Old 6th October 2010, 13:12   #26
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Default Fault diagonised to faulty clutch

the vaccum pressure was checked and it was found to be ok, the colour of the oil ok, oil level maintained and on dismantling found the clutch( 3 in all) to be worn out. so now its being replaced and am keeping my fingers crossed and praying that my beauty should be back on road without any problem at least from tomorrow.

Could this be the culprit for early shifting or should i investigate more into this?
The mechanics are sure shot that this is the culprit but i don't want to jump to hasty decisions

Any inputs on this would be highly appreciated?
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Old 6th October 2010, 14:18   #27
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IMO yes it is due to faulty clutch as weak clutch means higher engine RPM, higher RPM means higher vaccum pressure which translates earlier shift
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Old 6th October 2010, 15:30   #28
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IMO yes it is due to faulty clutch as weak clutch means higher engine RPM, higher RPM means higher vaccum pressure which translates earlier shift
still waiting for the parts to arrive and it should be fitted by tonight so that she would be on road atleast by tommorrow .
Shall post the feedback once its done.
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Old 7th October 2010, 10:24   #29
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Default grinding transmission and clunking driveshafts

guys i need some inputs from you about my car's manual tranny. Its a 1984 W123 200D 4 Speed manual.

every time i shift from second to third the gears grind but if i shift slowly and gradually the problem does not occur, now, according to my understanding it might be the synchronizer. my clutch and its hydraulics are new so i'm guessing its not the clutch.
what do you guys think and can the synchronizers be replaced?

AND the propeller shaft seems to have some play and there is serious clunking when i accelerate and decelerate suddenly, some mechs claim that the play is adjustable and can be eliminated but when i looked under the car i also found that the axle boots were torn. it seems they are busted too. is there anyway to repair/recondition the drive shafts? will they last if reconditioned? what do they do while reconditioning the driveshafts, do they replace the important parts or do they machine them?

i'm really uncomfortable driving the car after knowing about them axles. please give in your inputs.

Last edited by msaudf : 7th October 2010 at 10:27.
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Old 7th October 2010, 12:16   #30
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Its a 1984 W123 200D 4 Speed manual. every time i shift from second to third the gears grind but if i shift slowly and gradually the problem does not occur, now, puts.

So what happens if you down shift from fourth to third? does it still happen like you describe from 2nd to 3rd?
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