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Old 28th August 2011, 18:02   #181
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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I have got 2 pictures that have the Classic style number plates. I feel, there should be no PLASTIC on classic cars. In those days, there was no acrylic so people used metal fonts pasted on aluminium plates. Those wanting something cheap would get the number hand painted!
I'm not sure if Behram was referring to the UK style plates or the Indian ones though.

In some cases, back in the day some number plates were the metal numbers bolted onto the plates. IMHO those are really beautiful, somewhat similar to the plates on the Herald you posted. But I guess those cost more here so fewer people went for them.

In any case, they wouldnt be possible now with the white plate rule!

Also IMHO they looked nice on the old style numbers. As I mentioned earlier, I simply dislike the new regn. stystem, I just have to put up with them (if they are already on my vehicles) because of the law!
And yes, also agree with what you have to say about the plastic plates! They are fitted on my SS80 by a previous owner, and the rear one's broken already! I positively hate them on ANY vehicle!

Anyways, coming back to my last post, self-starter now fitted back in place. Fuel pump yet to be fitted. BUT, turned out that the 'Gaylord' is unsuitable for use as it was found to give out excess current, which is not good for the starter (as Behram correctly advised!) so I'm having it returned.

Well, with a name like that, its not surprising that it should behave this way!

Now I'm contemplating fitting the Lucas-TVS solenoid itself afterall! My mech. told me that it would suit only an alternator rather than a dynamo. But going through my pics. I took of various Heralds I recently spotted, most of them have been fitted with this solenoid as replacement and still have the dynamo fitted! So I guess it shouldnt be a problem in my case either?

Alternatively, I'm bidding on an old type one found on ebay as well, just in case.

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My dad had one of these and it was a sky blue example he loved it very much.
Welcome aboard and nice to know your dad had a Herald too! Was it in Madras ('prefer to still call it that, sorry!) btw? Do you recall the number? I presume it was an MS* series if in Madras. Also any old pics. of it?

Last edited by Stanher : 28th August 2011 at 18:09.
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Old 28th August 2011, 18:16   #182
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

Shyam I know a guy who does aluminium molded number plates which is RTA recognized and durable apart from being reasonable price.
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Old 28th August 2011, 18:44   #183
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

Congratulations on your new (b)ride. You have done a very good job. I have a suggestion which should complement the work already done.

With the mechanicals in good shape, I wish that you put it through a thorough detailing job to bring it to show car standards. I am a little too far away or would have helped you out with the detailing but if you can do it or find someone to help. A little effort for about 4 days full time should see it through.

Love your car.
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Old 28th August 2011, 20:13   #184
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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I have a suggestion which should complement the work already done.
With the mechanicals in good shape, I wish that you put it through a thorough detailing job to bring it to show car standards. I am a little too far away or would have helped you out with the detailing but if you can do it or find someone to help. A little effort for about 4 days full time should see it through.
Always glad to hear from more admirers of CAN! 'really appreciate that.

Yes, I agree with what you say about the detailing job. But I'm reserving it for a time when money AND time permit. I have quite a lot of pending responsibilities to handle for now and I dont want to risk taking the car apart to have it standing that way at a garage for ages and falling to ruin, that way I wont be doing justice to it! I'm also particular about the kind of paint job (which I presume you meant to include in the 'detailing' bit) I should give it, which should be the best it ever had. All this to be done only when I'm fully sure about getting a thorough and proper job done and done only ONCE!

And from experience, I can say that it does not take as little as 4 days! Not in our country atleast!
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Old 28th August 2011, 21:07   #185
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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I'm also particular about the kind of paint job (which I presume you meant to include in the 'detailing' bit)
Hey what colour you have on mind? I presume it should be a dual-tone job?
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Old 28th August 2011, 21:32   #186
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Hey what colour you have on mind? I presume it should be a dual-tone job?
No! I do like the dual-tones (known as duotone in Herald lingo ) as was on your car. But my car is 1964 model and these were available only in single colours. I would reserve the duotones strictly for early '61-62 Heralds (when I get one too! )
I did very much want to have a white stripe on the sides as was done in some cases. But I cant find many red Heralds that did have them. And it does look good even otherwise!

Last edited by Stanher : 28th August 2011 at 21:35.
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Old 29th August 2011, 08:16   #187
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I'm also particular about the kind of paint job (which I presume you meant to include in the 'detailing' bit) I should give it, which should be the best it ever had. All this to be done only when I'm fully sure about getting a thorough and proper job done and done only ONCE!

And from experience, I can say that it does not take as little as 4 days! Not in our country atleast!
Really glad to see that it is on the agenda. Painting is secondary and is the icing on the cake and like you said will take time. Your existing paint job NC if I am not mistaken can be cleaned and buffed and waxed, after some touch up work.

What I thought of was a thorough clean up using diesel (or a Degreaser - expensive) especially in the engine compartment. Wash down thoroughly and work on each of the metal components with old fashioned Brasso or a modern cutting compound.
Clean up the the nuts and bolts - lots of elbow grease. With good quality grit paper, clean up the paint work where there is a problem and touch with colour matched alkyd paint with a brush. Visually, it will look OK till you are ready for a full job.

I am enjoying myself with a hobby detailing - 2 boys to assist. We rip apart cars, clean, polish and wax it in 2-3 days. Four days is insurance for older cars, though they are easier to take apart and put together again - if you have the right tools.

Just some encouragement to egg you onto a quick detail
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Old 29th August 2011, 11:24   #188
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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Do you mean this solenoid?

Triumph Herald 1959-1971 Starter Solenoid Lucas Type | eBay

I've seen this fitted to a few Heralds and I'd even asked my mech. about fitting it but he said there has to be some changes made in the concerned wiring or else it will cause a load on the starter.
Dear Shyam - yes, it is similar. The price quoted is 9 pounds which is 750 rupees. The "woriginal" Lucas TVS part is still sold brand new in any good auto parts shop for around 350 rupees. Just buy it, fit it and use it. There is a low-tech way of doing things and it costs less. .

Your mechanic is trying to pull a fast one on you. There are 3 attachment points, one is the battery cable, one is the starter cable and the third goes to the terminal "50" on the ignition switch which actuates the solenoid. Done properly, it is a one hour job. I suggest you do it yourself. It does not matter whether the car has a dynamo or alternator, solenoid function is common.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 29th August 2011, 15:39   #189
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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Your existing paint job NC if I am not mistaken can be cleaned and buffed and waxed, after some touch up work.

What I thought of was a thorough clean up using diesel (or a Degreaser - expensive) especially in the engine compartment. Wash down thoroughly and work on each of the metal components with old fashioned Brasso or a modern cutting compound.
Clean up the the nuts and bolts - lots of elbow grease. With good quality grit paper, clean up the paint work where there is a problem and touch with colour matched alkyd paint with a brush. Visually, it will look OK till you are ready for a full job.
I did get the paint buffed/waxed last year when I first got some work done on the car though. 'got it done on the bootlid again this time. 'doesnt seem to last very long for some reason! But then, most of the paint (I only got the doors, rooftop and bootlid repainted) is more than 20 years old now!

I intend to do the touch-up on the inside of the engine bay, around the brake/clutch mc area where half of the paint has been lost due to the brake oil seeping around! It does look quite messy! Too much paint gone for a brush touch-up so I reckon it may require a spray. I might get it done just before the World Tourism Day rally next month.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Shyam - yes, it is similar. The price quoted is 9 pounds which is 750 rupees. The "woriginal" Lucas TVS part is still sold brand new in any good auto parts shop for around 350 rupees. Just buy it, fit it and use it. There is a low-tech way of doing things and it costs less. .
Yes, I'm aware that the same solenoid is made by Lucas-TVS, so I intend to buy it here itself!
The one on ebay incidentally, isnt even a Lucas-made one.

Quote:
It does not matter whether the car has a dynamo or alternator, solenoid function is common.
This is exactly the doubt I wanted cleared. Much to my relief that I could go ahead with it now!
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Old 29th August 2011, 16:30   #190
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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I am enjoying myself with a hobby detailing - 2 boys to assist. We rip apart cars, clean, polish and wax it in 2-3 days. Four days is insurance for older cars, though they are easier to take apart and put together again - if you have the right tools.
Hey basky,
Is car detailing your profession? You seem to really go into the details that's why. Good to find people giving attention to details in older cars. Nowadays bodyshops are only interested in doing modern/new cars.
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Old 29th August 2011, 19:56   #191
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Hey basky,
Is car detailing your profession? You seem to really go into the details that's why. Good to find people giving attention to details in older cars. Nowadays bodyshops are only interested in doing modern/new cars.
Right now it is a satisfying hobby. We take our own sweet time and rip apart quite a bit before beginning the cleaning. Most of our friends have cheerfully trusted us do what we think is best - my terms actually. Once we rip it apart, the enthusiasm catches on and they want more done especially when they see the muck they have been carrying around all these years.

I have been asked to go pro to get better rates on consumables and my principal supplier has backed me with support and the good a product range direct from USA.

The problem with Kerala is the regular availability of good and genuine products. The moment something becomes popular, the dupes are brought in and they are difficult to distinguish from the original.

Will post photos of one complete job soon.
Tks anyway for your interest.
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Old 29th August 2011, 20:15   #192
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Too much paint gone for a brush touch-up so I reckon it may require a spray. I might get it done just before the World Tourism Day rally next month.
Ideal painting will be to strip the car and all paint to the base metal, clean off all rust mechanically and chemically, apply sealants to all spot welded joints like in the modern cars, level the bodywork and do a full 2K paint job.

If on a budget, strip all loose paint, proceed on the rust and after as before and finish off with a good alkyd paint job - Nippon or anything better. Dont like ICI Gallup because of its lousy coverage. Even this can be detailed to get a supper gloss.

Fact is with 2K, Alkyd or NC, you will have to do a paint correction detailing to bring out the best finish.

Cheering you on
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Old 31st August 2011, 10:10   #193
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Default Re: Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!

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If on a budget, strip all loose paint, proceed on the rust and after as before and finish off with a good alkyd paint job - Nippon or anything better. Dont like ICI Gallup because of its lousy coverage. Even this can be detailed to get a supper gloss.
Speaking of which, the most common brand in 2k I get to hear about here is Dupont? Also is Glasurit available in our country (didnt find it in the list of countries in the glasurit website)? I know of a workshop that uses this brand to paint cars, also has good results.

PS: Almost forgot to mention- today marks 1 YEAR since CAN became mine!!

And here's wishing for many more wondrous years of togetherness!

Looking at her pics. taken exactly a year ago when I'd brought her from the PO's house (as seen in the first page), she sure has come a long way from what she looked like then!

As seen in this pic., she looks undoubtedly better than even I do!

Welcome my new (b)ride, CAN 1526 (nee APF 4050)!-img_9540.jpg

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Old 31st August 2011, 10:57   #194
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Speaking of which, the most common brand in 2k I get to hear about here is Dupont? Also is Glasurit available in our country. I know of a workshop that uses this brand to paint cars, also has good results.

PS: Almost forgot to mention- today marks 1 YEAR since CAN became mine!!
Congrats on 1st anniversary.
I dont think BASF is selling Glasurit in India officially. More than the paint system or brand, the applicator's attitude and aptitude is more important.
Good surface preparation, leveling and priming are the key.

Painters here are impossible.I know of painters here applying 2K paint super diluted with solvent to maximize the area covered thereby nullifying the effect of the product. NONE of the painters here use headgear with supply of clean fresh air and there are not aware of the dangers of isocyanates triggering asthmatic response in 80% of cases of inhalation.

2K is ideal but expensive when done properly and will last a long, long time. Try avoiding NC paint. Alkyd is low cost but thicker and is normally for commercial vehicles. It can be used with thinner or even turpentine - drying time differs. Painters wont recommend it as it is a low profit job and we get the best results when we follow through.

Leave the alkyd paint to dry and harden for a month and then work on it with cutting compounds, sealants and wax ie a full detailing job. You'll get the benefit of good durable gloss at lower costs.
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Old 31st August 2011, 11:57   #195
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Congrats on 1st anniversary.
Thanks! How I wish I could've driven her around today though!
Still to get the solenoid and fuel pump fitted! :sigh:

Quote:
I dont think BASF is selling Glasurit in India officially. More than the paint system or brand, the applicator's attitude and aptitude is more important.
Good surface preparation, leveling and priming are the key.

Painters here are impossible.I know of painters here applying 2K paint super diluted with solvent to maximize the area covered thereby nullifying the effect of the product. NONE of the painters here use headgear with supply of clean fresh air and there are not aware of the dangers of isocyanates triggering asthmatic response in 80% of cases of inhalation.

2K is ideal but expensive when done properly and will last a long, long time. Try avoiding NC paint.
Hmm.....I guess in that case that workshop (which is more of a high-profile one) is importing those paints?

Yes, agree with you about the attitudes and methods of the painters here!

BTW, by NC paint, I presume you mean the 'Duco' paints?
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