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Old 17th June 2010, 16:39   #31
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When the engine was all assembled and our guys tried to spin it with a handle it seemed like we were trying to shift mount everest. Things seemed too tight.
Any Idea why this must have happened. Did you not try to turn the engine when the crank, conrods, bearings, pistons, cam shaft were assembled without the cyl head on? Was the engien line bored?I would love to see more photos of the crank, conrods, bearings, pistons, rings, valves springs and rickers and the camshaft and push rods. And the parts missed out in the gearbox. Is this possible? thanksAnd yes this is a wonderful thread you've created. Regards
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Old 17th June 2010, 16:57   #32
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Any Idea why this must have happened. Did you not try to turn the engine when the crank, conrods, bearings, pistons, cam shaft were assembled without the cyl head on? Was the engien line bored?I would love to see more photos of the crank, conrods, bearings, pistons, rings, valves springs and rickers and the camshaft and push rods. And the parts missed out in the gearbox. Is this possible? thanksAnd yes this is a wonderful thread you've created. Regards
Yes we were turning at every stage. It could have been the new rings and new liners that seemed to offer that initial resistance. We ruled out bearings as they had been tightened lightly as specified. I had personally checked the crank for not catching on bearings. The new valve springs probably didn't help matters either. At the end I'm glad we eased it up manually. Now she runs pretty cool when driven.

Like you say without the head it turned easily, but with the head on and plugs in it was a tough cookie. I had requested the machine shop to hone the cylinders post the boring. They are a pretty decent outfit and we use them for modern Honda engines to no compromise. I also ensured the liners were bored and honed to the factory spec which specified a guage for permissible tolerance.

Let me see if I have more pictures of the internals. I am surprised myself how I missed it. I think when it came to the engine, gearbox and differential I was actually working with the guys assembling it so may have had my hands soiled to be working a camera. Will check if I have more pictures

I am not aware if they use line boring for cylinders. I don't know much about machine shop tech but I think the local shops line bore bearings. They do use a device which hones in a pattern using stones. Is this what you mean?

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Old 17th June 2010, 17:17   #33
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Great stuff Deepak. A car with such provenance deserves nothing less than the best. I'm sure you had a ball!
I agree and yes I had a blast. This has been a childhood dream of one day dismantling a car completely and restoring it from scratch. The dream has been fulfilled and its been the most rich experience I could desire. I owe much to a gem of a boss who gave me a free hand in deciding on all matters pertaining to the car and the monies I spent doing it up. Needless to say I have access to the most wonderful workshop you can ever desire and an army of fabulous technicians.

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You know many current manufacturers emply a very similar technique to 'cold run' new engines before actually firing up.
I think it makes a lot of sense to do so.
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Great work done. Hopefully the one which we are doing should turn out similer to this one. Apart from this could you tell me the the source from where you got the engine parts from please.
These are rare cars Indrojit and they do deserve the very best. You will get most parts from The Filling Station and I got the engine parts from Kanter Auto Products.

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Old 17th June 2010, 17:21   #34
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These are rare cars Indrojit and they do deserve the very best. You will get most parts from The Filling Station and I got the engine parts from Kanter Auto Products.
I know how rare they are. I found kanter as well for the engine parts. What is the CI of the engine ?
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Old 17th June 2010, 17:35   #35
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There's so much that happens when you are restoring a car from scratch. The headaches, frustrations, deadends, walls you encounter when hunting for parts or trying to sort a problem out cannot be photographed and posted here.

The original radiator had been lost sometime during the life of MDR 200. In its place was a modern contraption. I was clear I wanted the original harrison radiator.

No one in the US had these. The radiator industry, especially catering to Chevies is primarily for hot rod radiators. I was bent on getting the original. Finally I bought a used original harrison for the 33 from ebay, had it recored in the US and brought down.

The headlamp domes on MDR 200 were severly damaged and it would have been a nightmare to repair them. I ended up sourcing a pair of good used ones from ebay and brought them in to have them repaired for minor dings and then chromed them

I had sent all the chrome trim to Chennai to get it rechromed at a facility there. Somehow somewhere the headlamp bars, a tail lamp part and the carrier main brackets were misplaced and I got a shock to learn of this loss. Luckily I managed to buy a pair of headlamp bars and a tail lamp. There were no carrier brackets to be found anywhere in the US. Finally a friend from Delhi saved me by moulding a set from a friend's car as sample and sent them down.

He also kindly moulded the rear carrier emblem which was missing on MDR 200. I eventually had the emblem filled in with enamel by jewellers as this was the original material used and not paint !

The oak top bows came out broken in many places. Infact the rear bow had warped completely out of shape due to Chennai weather I guess. No one in Hyderabad was willing to steam bend single piece wood for me. The cane vendors said they could give it a shot but they are such a crude bunch you can't expect any form of finesse in their work. Eventually I ordered a set from the US which are yet to arrive. Infact the top is the only thing left on the car to be completed. The top material has arrived and will be stitched once the bows come in

As I remember the many hurdles I faced will post them here with the solutions

Here is a picture of hubcaps I painted on the insides to prevent possible corrosion in future

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-img_05232.jpg

Last edited by DKG : 17th June 2010 at 17:47.
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Old 17th June 2010, 17:39   #36
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I know how rare they are. I found kanter as well for the engine parts. What is the CI of the engine ?
First establish if its a Master or a Standard (both are 6 cyl cars). MDR 200 is a Master Phaeton with a 206.8 or 207 cu in engine and 18 inch wheels

In the US they referred to this car as Eagle or Master. Its also referred to as CA series. It has a 110 inch wheelbase. Only 543 units of the 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaetons were built. MDR 200 was assembled in Bombay India and has the XTCA tag in the chassis

The other which is Mercury or Standard is the CC at 107 inch wheelbase. I think it has a 181 cu in engine

Your car should be the same as MDR 200 ie a Master Phaeton. Do find out more about the 17 inch rim on your car. Could it have been a standard fitment with the 18 inchers as an accessory?

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Old 17th June 2010, 18:01   #37
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Like you say without the head it turned easily, but with the head on and plugs in it was a tough cookie. I had requested the machine shop to hone the cylinders post the boring. They are a pretty decent outfit and we use them for modern Honda engines to no compromise. I also ensured the liners were bored and honed to the factory spec which specified a guage for permissible tolerance.
I am not aware if they use line boring for cylinders. I don't know much about machine shop tech but I think the local shops line bore bearings. They do use a device which hones in a pattern using stones. Is this what you mean?
well If it turned ok without the head then it's a relief in the sense that nothing was not as per tolerances in the bottom end. Probably the compression and valve springs etc..
I noticed the hone pattern on the sylinder bores.
By line boring I meant if the main bearing shells (all three) were fitted and the ID of all three checked if any were oblong. They then use a tool which is like two carpernter vise with a crank on one end to get the three bearing holes in line and oval. I say three here since this has three main bearings. Alternatively if it's not that bad then each shell can be gound to reduce the ID and then fitted back on and honed.
One has to take gretl care in checking the machine shop guys work since I have seen one of Vijay mallayas eight cyl crankshaft being dropped in a machine shop when the owner was not there. They had kept it upright and were checking the con rod's for tighness by fitting each and turning.The boys then just straightned the bent con rod by hand. The owner of the shop was certainly not informed.

regards

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Old 17th June 2010, 18:06   #38
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Amazing work DKG, hats off to you and your team for the dedication !
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Old 17th June 2010, 22:35   #39
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Originally Posted by deutscheafrikar View Post
By line boring I meant if the main bearing shells (all three) were fitted and the ID of all three checked if any were oblong. They then use a tool which is like two carpernter vise with a crank on one end to get the three bearing holes in line and oval
I don't know much about machine shop tech but I think they line bore bearings just as you described. Maybe if I do another engine will try to spend sometime understanding the finer aspects of machining
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Old 17th June 2010, 23:30   #40
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Had a privilege of seeing this beauty the last time when I was in Hyderabad and I must say, this is among the best restored vintage cars I've ever seen in my life.

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Old 17th June 2010, 23:59   #41
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This is brilliant work DKG ! Reading your thread makes me feel I'm lucky to be on team-BHP - Very few have the privilege to witness a resto of this standard - hats off to you and your team !!
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Old 18th June 2010, 16:25   #42
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A 360 degree perspective. Some more pictures of the car for your viewing pleasure

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-022.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-023.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-024.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-012.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-013.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-015.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-017.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-018.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-019.jpg

Restoring a 1933 Chevrolet Master Phaeton-020.jpg

Last edited by DKG : 18th June 2010 at 16:30.
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Old 18th June 2010, 16:28   #43
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DKG , i honestly feel that the car would look better without the spare wheel covers on them. Was this an original fitment with the car ?
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Old 18th June 2010, 16:37   #44
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DKG , i honestly feel that the car would look better without the spare wheel covers on them. Was this an original fitment with the car ?
I cannot confirm if this was a OE fitment Indrojit but spare wheel covers was common place in that era. Perhaps at an additional charge and also the rear view mirrors that fit on the spare tyre. These could have been accessories. Later mfg's quite obviously opted for metal covers. I think the Chevy got them in a few years since this one.

You are probably right that it may look prettier without the covers. I guess I put them on because I had ordered them They will balance out aesthetically once the tan canvas top is in place, that will deifinitely enhance the look in terms of visual balance
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Old 18th June 2010, 16:37   #45
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Wonderful Restoration DKG

everything is shining and this beauty seems as good as new.

the best part i loved is to restore it to the originality.

good job.
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