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Old 25th February 2008, 09:23   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
the tuner which tunes from 0-6 v is somewhat kept in middle of the two so that bass is not too loud ...................

i dont get the complete punch from the woofer it seems. the woofer is very powerfull. its 250 RMS i.e more than the JBL base tube i.e 125 rms.
The above statements seem contradictory. Please clarify. So essentially you want more punch from your sub?

What is the fader setting on the HU?
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Old 25th February 2008, 09:24   #62 (permalink)
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@amit_mechengg, "Bass : Zero, Treble : +3 , Fad : +2" is not flat - all at zero will be.

"preety flat" No, she's not, she is quite decently endowed!!!

"The amp is set to LPV mode and not the full mode" - this is OK, you are basically telling the amp not to waste power on mid and hi frequencies.

"subwoofer is bridged to the amp with negative grounded": Not understood. "Bridged" means connected to + of L and - of R, and - of R should NOT be grounded! If you mean - of power supply, I'm not sure if you have +ive or -ive ground in your vehicle. We don't even know what else do you have: HU, speakers, etc.

"the tuner which tunes from 0-6 v ... HU is 45 X 4 watts and the line out is 1.5 volts against the pioneer/ sony 50X4 watts and line out 2.5 V": data not relevant. What IS relevant is that
a. your fader is set to +2 to rear - this should be 0. Come on, you have an amp, and amp GAIN should take care of this
b. keeping fader at +2 you would be keeping the volume higher than normal to get decent volume in front
c. You have not tuned your system well
d. Don't go by 'declared' engineering data, unless you are measuring it properly.

"i dont get the complete punch from the woofer it seems. the woofer is very powerfull. its 250 RMS i.e more than the JBL base tube i.e 125 rms": The woofer can take 250W rms, but is the amp able to give it? Maybe not.

Post pictures of your installation, so that we are able to relate to it and see if something else is wrong.

Now, try this:
1. Connect the RCA cables going to amp to the FRONT pre-amp out, not rear
2. Set all tone controls flat, set fader to zero
3. Play some normal tracks, which are not bass heavy
4. Keep amp gain at 0 (for the time being)
5. Keep HU volume at a comfortable hearing level (OK, OK, no bass, but still...)
6. Now slowly raise the amp gain till you can just feel the bass from the sub. Don't look at where the knob is set, unless it already reaches max before you feel it
7. Play a set of bass heavy tracks (drum & bass, for example) and see if the setting is OK. Increase gain if you feel lack of punch. If bass is becoming overpowering when you increase volume, reduce the gain a bit. Set fader to front if the image is too close to you
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Old 25th February 2008, 19:25   #63 (permalink)
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i am not able to attach my images here
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Last edited by amit_mechengg : 25th February 2008 at 19:26.
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Old 25th February 2008, 19:38   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
i am not able to attach my images here
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/announ...-team-bhp.html
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Old 25th February 2008, 19:53   #65 (permalink)
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The Power Cable for Amplifier power in the engine bay. Make : Soundstream, Price : Rs.950/-



Front 4" Sony Explod Speakers. i dont like Sony speakers that are in the front.



The JVC car tape model KS- F171, 45 X 4 watts



the adaptor cassette which converts car tape to MP3. it has a sony high quality audio head in it.



the Malasian Sony MP3 player my friend had bought for me 4 years back. I also have a Hitachi Hard disk 80 GB DVD/VCD/MP3 player which can be coupled directly to the Lcd display and the cigarette lighter adaptor for best digital picture experience.



my new Dynamo Philips 2 channel Amplifier.



woofer out connections bridged Negative Rear and Positive Left. Also shown the battery , Rem and Ground. the ground is attached to body for earthing.
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Old 25th February 2008, 20:06   #66 (permalink)
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Thanks! Pictures of the Sub?
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Old 25th February 2008, 20:14   #67 (permalink)
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Rear japanese make speakers. Forgot the brand. had purchased it from a friend who has customs electronics shop. sounds good since 3 years.




The rear speakers and the woofer. The flap is custom made from 12" wooden ply perfectly blended with the contours of the boot fibre.



the custom made box for woofer made up of particle board and air ducts.



subwoofer, Make : philips, 1300 watts 250 Rms. it has a very good finish and quality.




now i have removed the grill over the subwoofer. it was touching the subwoofer rubber bidding. might be it obstructs the movement of the woofer.
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Old 25th February 2008, 22:05   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuvc View Post
The above statements seem contradictory. Please clarify. So essentially you want more punch from your sub?

What is the fader setting on the HU?
ya i will explain that. what i mean is even if the woofer specs are very powerful my HU is not able to deliver what exactly it needs for a perfect pure bass punch. if i turn the knob from 0.3V to 6V on the tuner in the amplifier as shown in the picture, the bass sounds loud but not crisp and clear. it shudders.
The fader setting on HU is +R2
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Old 25th February 2008, 22:19   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post


"i dont get the complete punch from the woofer it seems. the woofer is very powerfull. its 250 RMS i.e more than the JBL base tube i.e 125 rms": The woofer can take 250W rms, but is the amp able to give it? Maybe not.

Post pictures of your installation, so that we are able to relate to it and see if something else is wrong.

Now, try this:
1. Connect the RCA cables going to amp to the FRONT pre-amp out, not rear
2. Set all tone controls flat, set fader to zero
3. Play some normal tracks, which are not bass heavy
4. Keep amp gain at 0 (for the time being)
5. Keep HU volume at a comfortable hearing level (OK, OK, no bass, but still...)
6. Now slowly raise the amp gain till you can just feel the bass from the sub. Don't look at where the knob is set, unless it already reaches max before you feel it
7. Play a set of bass heavy tracks (drum & bass, for example) and see if the setting is OK. Increase gain if you feel lack of punch. If bass is becoming overpowering when you increase volume, reduce the gain a bit. Set fader to front if the image is too close to you
ya u might be right deralte. the subwoofer is 250 Rms and amp is 60 X 2 RMS i.e it gives 120 RMS to the subwoofer. dont know whether is combo is perfect. throw some light on this please.
now my HU doesnt have a front Pre-Amp out. it has just a rear line out with left and right sockets.

also i tried the above method u told me with keeping all the settings flat.
i have reduced the gains a bit.

please tell me one thing. 45X4 watts is the delivery of the HU. and this is input to a AMP which gives 60X2=120 Rms out. whats the sum that the Subwoofer gets in total.
Also what extra will i gain if i go for a 50X4 watts HU.
Also i didnt get the funda where it says my HU gives out 1.5V at line out and the other HU gives 2.5V at line out?
i may sound nuts but please explain.
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Old 25th February 2008, 22:28   #70 (permalink)
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the sub looks awfully like some "dainty" subs we have here. taiwan made, and they look red.
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Old 26th February 2008, 00:43   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Looks quite similar to this one except the color

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Old 26th February 2008, 08:00   #72 (permalink)
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That's a pretty big@$$ box! Does this sub need a box that big?
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Old 26th February 2008, 10:08   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post


Rear japanese make speakers. Forgot the brand. had purchased it from a friend who has customs electronics shop. sounds good since 3 years.
Looks like a Pioneer fake to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg
if i turn the knob from 0.3V to 6V on the tuner in the amplifier as shown in the picture, the bass sounds loud but not crisp and clear. it shudders.
Thats not the tuner. Its the gain. It is used to match the head unit's pre-out. When you turn it all the way up, the amp clips and thats the shuddering you are hearing.
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Old 26th February 2008, 10:23   #74 (permalink)
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OK, now it is easier to visualize.

* First of all, what is the orange wire that is peeping out from behind the speaker wires? (Pic 7, amp wiring) Where is this wire connected?

* The woofer is fine, but the box and grill do not seem to be anywhere near what one would expect of a Philips associate! Is the dealer giving the box deal? As @Hydrashok said, the box is HUGE! Could you tell us what are the external dimensions of the box, the size of the hole(s) and length of pipe (the grey plastic pipe)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
the subwoofer is 250 Rms and amp is 60 X 2 RMS i.e it gives 120 RMS to the subwoofer. dont know whether is combo is perfect
"Perfect" it is not, but you'd be better off not looking a gift horse in the mouth. 120W rms is not very powerful, but not a write-off either. The next best option will cost you another 8K. You want?

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
now my HU doesnt have a front Pre-Amp out. it has just a rear line out with left and right sockets.
Pre-amp out never comes in front. Your "rear line-out" is the "pre-amp out"

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
45X4 watts is the delivery of the HU. and this is input to a AMP which gives 60X2=120 Rms out. whats the sum that the Subwoofer gets in total.
Your HU amp does not play a role here - it is not in circuit and is not being used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
Also what extra will i gain if i go for a 50X4 watts HU.
Nothing, nichts, zero, zilch, shunya; see above

Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
Also i didnt get the funda where it says my HU gives out 1.5V at line out and the other HU gives 2.5V at line out?
Higher Line-out voltage (used to be 0.4V standard in home audio earlier, but in ICE there is no standard) is a design issue. Yes, it is easier to reach full capability of higher power amps (like in LBM's case) with lesser noise and distortion if you feed a higher voltage at the input. But, at your amp's level, it does not play that significant a role.
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Old 26th February 2008, 21:19   #75 (permalink)
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[quote=DerAlte;736069]OK, now it is easier to visualize.
Quote:
* First of all, what is the orange wire that is peeping out from behind the speaker wires? (Pic 7, amp wiring) Where is this wire connected?
sorry the pics were captured in pitch dark. its red in colour. thats the wire coming from the battery.

Quote:
* The woofer is fine, but the box and grill do not seem to be anywhere near what one would expect of a Philips associate! Is the dealer giving the box deal? As @Hydrashok said, the box is HUGE! Could you tell us what are the external dimensions of the box, the size of the hole(s) and length of pipe (the grey plastic pipe)?
no the box and the grill is not offered by Philips. the dealer has given it to me. the box is huge . dont know the exact dimensions, will count it. but as u can see from the pic it occupies the boot and its end touches the mid of both the rear speakers. i.e the length. the pipe dia might be around 60 mm approx. it gives a gud punch. i can feel the air pumped till the roof of the car.


Quote:
Your HU amp does not play a role here - it is not in circuit and is not being used.
ok that means that changing the HU wont make a difference to me.


and one more thing please suggest me. now i have removed the safety grill. please look at the pic no 9. it shows the placement of the rear tray and the woofer. there is a very less gap in between the two. is it affecting a proper functioning of my system?
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