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Old 23rd April 2014, 14:57   #391
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Turtuk - Spangmik - Via leh is pushing it too much. Try Agham Shyok route - It may be open. This means its 8 hours to Spangmik from Turtuk, maybe 10 hours max.

If you have a snorkel then Agham Shyok should be totally doable. If not, then it depends upon the river.
Ok, I guess I misinterpreted the below suggestion as a Turtuk-Leh-Spangmik being a 7hr run.

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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Turtuk - Leh
Leh - Spangmik - Reach by noon by doing a 7 hour run.
Will try the Agham Shyok route, but I dont have a snorkel, even if I had, I would not risk utilising its services, given that I have a kid with me.

At what point on the Agham Shyok route would one realise that its not doable? So was thinking, what would be the time taken to trace back to Leh, in case its a no-go.
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Old 23rd April 2014, 15:04   #392
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Ok, I guess I misinterpreted the below suggestion as a Turtuk-Leh-Spangmik being a 7hr run.



Will try the Agham Shyok route, but I dont have a snorkel, even if I had, I would not risk utilising its services, given that I have a kid with me.

At what point on the Agham Shyok route would one realise that its not doable? So was thinking, what would be the time taken to trace back to Leh, in case its a no-go.
In case its a no go, you would lose about 3 hours total(to and fro)
If you can keep driving for 1-1.5 hours without obstruction.. you have made it. In May the river levels should be pretty low still. There may even be a bridge ready!
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Old 23rd April 2014, 22:47   #393
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I am a newbie here at the forum and wanted to ask what would be the best iternity for ladakh and zanskar. I have a Toyota Fortuner 4*4 2013 model bought with this trip in mind. Will be starting from Meerut(near delhi) around 20th July for around 15 days. I have been to leh in 2011 in my toyota innova but unpleasant experiences at zojila and rohtang make me want to come back in a better vehicle next time. I would like to cover zansker, Tso morari and even chishul or hanle if possible. I would be grateful if ladakh experts can help me plan my route. We will be 4 people in the car 2 middle aged and my kids(both adults). Thank you in advance.

I did Leh through zojila in my Innova in the same year 2011, with no problem at all, some level of tactical driving is needed, but that would be true even for nano and Maruti 800 / alto, and later is a common site

What was the problem that you faced?
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Old 24th April 2014, 11:29   #394
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Post Ladakh update: No permit required || Exception || Catch ||

Courtesy: HVK and BCMTouring.

No need to apply for permits at DC's Office, Leh from May 1 onwards for Indian nationals. ID cards such as Driving License/ PAN card/ Aaadhar, etc should be carried as proof of Indian and will act as Inner Line Permits (ILPs).

List of places for which permit is no longer required:
  • Dah and Hanu (Khaltse – Domkhar – Skurbuchan – Hanudo – Biama – Dha route.)
  • Pangong Tso (from Leh to Merak Village.)
  • Tso Moriri (Leh – Chumathang – Mahe – Korzok.)
  • Loma Bend (Leh – Chumathang – Mahe – Nyoma – Loma Bend.)
  • Nubra Valley (Khardung La, Diskit, Hunder, Turtuk, Pachathang, Tyakshi, Sumur and Panamik.)
  • Tangyar (Leh – Sabhoo – Digger La – Khungru Gompa – Tangyar, only for trekking.)
To visit places beyond above-mentioned areas, you will need Permit from the DC Office and this order will come into effect from the 1st of May, 2014.

One more good news is that for those coming from Manali side, they can now go to Tso Moriri directly.

Exceptions:
  • Foreigners will still need Protected Area Permit.
  • Sensitive forward areas like Chushul, Tsaga, Demchok, Hanle & Marsimik La - for that, you have to still go to DC's Office in Leh for permit.
Catch:

There is a chance that this circular might not get implemented as Ladakh has polls on May 7th, 2014 and political parties can challenge this order in front of Election Commission.

Last edited by GTO : 26th April 2014 at 17:11. Reason: Moved to the main Leh thread
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Old 24th April 2014, 16:48   #395
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Note from mod:
Post #2 edited. Now no Inner line Permit is needed for regular tourist places
circular and details attached

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Old 24th April 2014, 19:12   #396
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Note from mod:
Post #2 edited. Now no Inner line Permit is needed for regular tourist places
circular and details attached

Awesome. I read the new thread that was created about this today morning. And then it disappeared. Good to see the details here already.

And the timing couldnt be better. I am planning to do the Srinagar Leh Manali route this July on rented bikes. And I was assigned the duty to find out how to get the permits. :P

I know this may not be the best place to ask, but any pointers as to where we can get good quality and maintained Enfields in Manali or Srinagar. We know we will have to pay transaportation costs for one side due to different pick up and drop off points. I see a bunch of them online but if anyone has any first hand experience, it will be great.
Also I dont have a bike back home anymore, so wanted to know if there is any place I can rent good quality riding gear? Buying riding pants,jacket, gloves, shoes and a helmet for 9 days doesnt seem like a smart financial decision. The costs added are 25k +. Delhi or Srinagar both work

Thank You
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Old 24th April 2014, 21:19   #397
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Originally Posted by Anupam View Post
I did Leh through zojila in my Innova in the same year 2011, with no problem at all, some level of tactical driving is needed, but that would be true even for nano and Maruti 800 / alto, and later is a common site

What was the problem that you faced?
I understand the tactical driving bit and did not have much of a problem anywhere. On zojila I think it was 8th July there was one over loaded truck with its one wheel hanging mid air at the edge of the cliff. It was just where the decent starts. The road was this closed. I waited for 2 hours hoping that road would reopen but then I heard some locals stating that there was a gravel road connecting the road I was on to the older alternate road that was running below. I was skeptical at first but my friend who was accompanying me in his wagon R took the risk and went first. He reached without much difficulty. I thought that I might also give it a try but the problem there was there were 5-6 hairpin bends on steep descent on a very narrow road with lose gravel. I had to take a 3 point turn on each but at one point while reversing my tyre was not able to grip the gravel and it was rotating freely. Being a RWD the car was not moving backward but instead towards the cliff. I had my son place rocks in front of the front wheel to stop the decent and below the rear free tyre also and we were able to find traction and get a move on. It was a scary experience. The wagon R was able to do those turns at once.

I had a similar bad experience at rohtang in the slush where not having a 4WD made finding traction almost impossible and the car was swaying sideways. Help from some helpful locals and previously made taxi tracks were what guided me through. This was after I waited for 6 hours for my turn. I remember seeing a Toyota fortuner that day going from the site with deep slush(we were all waiting for the lesser slush side) the moment it arrived without any difficulties made it clear that it was my next car. I haven't faced any problems with the innova and has always exceeded my expectations on my journeys to Kanyakumari, Orrisa, Goa and many others in the 90k kms I have used it. Still can't part with it as it helps in keeping the fortuner in factory condition.
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Old 24th April 2014, 23:53   #398
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I understand the tactical driving bit and did not have much of a problem anywhere. On zojila I think it was 8th July there was one over loaded truck with its one wheel hanging mid air at the edge of the cliff. It was just where the decent starts. The road was this closed. I waited for 2 hours hoping that road would reopen but then I heard some locals stating that there was a gravel road connecting the road I was on to the older alternate road that was running below. I was skeptical at first but my friend who was accompanying me in his wagon R took the risk and went first. He reached without much difficulty. I thought that I might also give it a try but the problem there was there were 5-6 hairpin bends on steep descent on a very narrow road with lose gravel. I had to take a 3 point turn on each but at one point while reversing my tyre was not able to grip the gravel and it was rotating freely. Being a RWD the car was not moving backward but instead towards the cliff. I had my son place rocks in front of the front wheel to stop the decent and below the rear free tyre also and we were able to find traction and get a move on. It was a scary experience. The wagon R was able to do those turns at once.



I had a similar bad experience at rohtang in the slush where not having a 4WD made finding traction almost impossible and the car was swaying sideways. Help from some helpful locals and previously made taxi tracks were what guided me through. This was after I waited for 6 hours for my turn. I remember seeing a Toyota fortuner that day going from the site with deep slush(we were all waiting for the lesser slush side) the moment it arrived without any difficulties made it clear that it was my next car. I haven't faced any problems with the innova and has always exceeded my expectations on my journeys to Kanyakumari, Orrisa, Goa and many others in the 90k kms I have used it. Still can't part with it as it helps in keeping the fortuner in factory condition.
Yes, your points are valid, Innova with its long wheel base with rear wheel drive can be very very tricky to maintain traction in the conditions mentioned. I have also faced few such situation and was able to come out only with tactical manipulation

In some stages I also had to clear in front side back in reverse using it as a front wheel drive

Obviously Innova is not meant to go in such extreme situation.

Just as an FYI, I had a side wall cut right in the middle of of Zojila deep in the slush where tyre change was also not possible, luckily the cut was not massive and could retain some pressure and managed through by filling in air through the portable every few km

Having said that, I don't have the option of any other vehicle and at that I have seen even 4x4 short wheel base getting stuck in situations

So I rely on the tactical part and do what I can with the Innova in such situation

Since you have the fortuner, the choice is there

Wish you a memorable journey
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Old 25th April 2014, 00:45   #399
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So I rely on the tactical part and do what I can with the Innova in such situation

Since you have the fortuner, the choice is there

Wish you a memorable journey
Thanks anupam. I think already been to leh once will help in the tactical driving bit.

As for other queries I want to ask members of the forum about Zanskar, Hanle and Tso Morari. How feasible is it to go there and where can I get accommodation? Can't seem to find much information on these off beat places.
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Old 25th April 2014, 12:54   #400
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
In case its a no go, you would lose about 3 hours total(to and fro)
If you can keep driving for 1-1.5 hours without obstruction.. you have made it. In May the river levels should be pretty low still. There may even be a bridge ready!
Any idea how was the condition of Agham-Shyok route last year season (Jun-Sep'13)?
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Old 25th April 2014, 13:25   #401
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

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Any idea how was the condition of Agham-Shyok route last year season (Jun-Sep'13)?
Bad as usual. Conditions keep changing every week. So past conditions have no bearing on current conditions. you have to go there and decide for yourself
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Old 26th April 2014, 00:49   #402
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Turtuk - Spangmik - Via leh is pushing it too much. Try Agham Shyok route - It may be open. This means its 8 hours to Spangmik from Turtuk, maybe 10 hours max.

.
So as per your inputs, have broken Turtuk-Pangong at Leh. Will try Shyok-Agham, if it works out, I will gain a day, if not, no harm done in planning an extra day upfront.

So here is the altered plan

Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide-ladakh2.jpg




Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Note from mod:
Post #2 edited. Now no Inner line Permit is needed for regular tourist places
circular and details attached

With the info available in your post no 2.

What will be the places to mention on the permit in the changed scenario
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Mention the following places
Nubra,Turtuk,Pangong, Marsimik La,Merak,Chushul,Tsaga La, Mahe, Nyoma,Hanle,Tso Moriri,Hanle,Yaye Tso

.

MarsimikLa, Chusul, Hanle?

(I will not take the Tsaga La route, hence omitted it upfront)
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Old 26th April 2014, 11:49   #403
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Default Re: Leh, Ladakh and Zanskar - The Ultimate Guide

1. Put Tsaga LA in permits. If they allow chushul, then Tsaga LA is no issue
2. Why are you going to Padum. You do not have a day there to see monasteries. Better? Stay at Rangdum and then make a day trip to Pensi LA and enjoy the sights. One night in Padum makes no sense. Heck, Panikhar-Rangdum-Pensi La - Sight seeing - Parakchik(Village at the glacier) makes good sense. So we are talking about 6 hours going and about 4-5 hours coming back.
Even with a late start from Parakchik you can make it to leh easily in 10 hours. There, you have gained a day.

Padum would have made sense if you were 2 nights there and using 1 day to see PAdum monasteries and around.

I would say
1. Sonmarg - Parakchik - 7 hours max
2. Parakchik-Rangdum-Pensi La - Parakchik - 10 hours including a 2 hour picnic at PEnsi La lakes
3. PArakchik - Leh - max 9-10 hours.

Bonus - When I went in 2009 road was there till Sankoo
When I was there in 2012 - Road was there beyond PAnikhar
Now I am sure the road has reached Parakchik, so driving times can be shaved off!

Last edited by tsk1979 : 26th April 2014 at 11:50.
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Old 26th April 2014, 14:19   #404
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I would say
1. Sonmarg - Parakchik - 7 hours max
2. Parakchik-Rangdum-Pensi La - Parakchik - 10 hours including a 2 hour picnic at PEnsi La lakes
3. PArakchik - Leh - max 9-10 hours.
This is Brilliant!! With the number of days you are shaving off, I might soon be wondering if I needed any holiday at all!! Just Kidding!

Parakchik to Leh via Kargil or there is a direct route?
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Old 26th April 2014, 14:29   #405
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This is Brilliant!! With the number of days you are shaving off, I might soon be wondering if I needed any holiday at all!! Just Kidding!

Parakchik to Leh via Kargil or there is a direct route?
Via Kargil of course. There is no other route.
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