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View Poll Results: Which build do you think I should go for?
Turbo charged Baleno? 28 44.44%
OHC with B16? 3 4.76%
Lancer with Mivec? 37 58.73%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 63. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 3rd September 2007, 17:31   #61
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Not so sure about the engine code, but I guess it should be a V6?
the v6 code is 6a12 for the 2l v6 thats the fto engine and the i4 would be 4g63t.

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Did not cinclaturbo advertise for a MIVEC sometime back. Remember hitting the search during my car search. Did you check out with him?
its already sold.
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Old 3rd September 2007, 17:42   #62
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The only 6cyl MIVEC is the 6G74 and 6G75, both of which are high capacity 3.5liter and 3.8liter blocks. The only 2 liter 6 cylinder block is the 6G71 which is a lame 120bhp.

Edit: Forgot about the 6A12... yup could be that engine.

Last edited by reignofchaos : 3rd September 2007 at 17:45.
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Old 3rd September 2007, 17:45   #63
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The only 6cyl MIVEC is the 6G74 and 6G75, both of which are high capacity 3.5liter and 3.8liter blocks. The only 2 liter 6 cylinder block is the 6G71 which is a lame 120bhp.
The 6A12 DOHC puts out 200bhp. I am told this is the engine.
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Old 3rd September 2007, 20:59   #64
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So Whats decided? Mivec Transplant or T-C Baleno ?
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Old 3rd September 2007, 21:42   #65
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I know it has a knock sensor but I hope you have also considered the fact that 91 Oct is at the refinery. By the time it comes to your tank it is 87-89 Oct. With a CR of 11.0:1 I really would not want to run 91 Oct gas in our country. And if a car is running our 91 Oct without knocking and is running fine performance vice then there is surely something wrong compression vice.

So how about actually contributing to the topic at hand rather than just nitpicking on such small issues?
If it has a knock sensor, it will retard timing and there is nothing wrong with the engine, compression 'vice' (sic). As Farhan has said, you can run on 91 since it has a knock sensor. But since you are in the mood to publicly denigrate whatever I say, I'm out of here. All the best on your buy.

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The Mivec engine however is equipped with a knock sensor and will retard the timing if lower octane fuel is used. this will only lead to a decrease in power.

The engines are pretty much bullet proof. Things hardly go wrong, but if they do, then sourcing parts is difficult.
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Old 3rd September 2007, 23:00   #66
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So Whats decided? Mivec Transplant or T-C Baleno ?
Need to have a word with the person who will be looking into either of the two builds first before taking the final plunge. Initial talks and discussions are pointing the TC way. Since he also has some experience with MIVEC's a detailed analysis will be done shortly (carrying forward all your advices) once the work on the Baleno will commence to get it back to a decent shape. Which means a final call will be taken once we see the condition of the engine on the Baleno.
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Old 4th September 2007, 07:35   #67
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i think you should just keep your car, get it back to running on a stock engine reliably for a while, and then work on turbocharging it. Your problem is, you did too much and gained too little with your first TC setup. A street setup with <10 psi shouldn't warrant forged internals at all provided it is fueled & timed right.

Neither should your 150 hp goal require the use of anything other than stock compression and the stock camshaft. Sorry for asking, but did you run a race cam with the turbocharger earlier?

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Old 4th September 2007, 10:10   #68
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wow - the mivec way would be a good way forward. Also - noticed that the G16B is a SOHC, wouldnt a DOHC produce more power? Since you are looking at an engine swap...just a thought.
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Old 4th September 2007, 10:37   #69
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Rahul my advice is to go for the Mivec. Thats my first option if I were you. The engine is very reliable and for all the other reasons mentioned in this article i dont see why not.

However if you are a turbo addict then the TC'd baleno it is.

All the best in your decision. We will wait for a TD whether its a TC'd baleno or a Mivec.
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Old 4th September 2007, 10:37   #70
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Originally Posted by ananthkamath View Post
i think you should just keep your car, get it back to running on a stock engine reliably for a while, and then work on turbocharging it. Your problem is, you did too much and gained too little with your first TC setup. A street setup with <10 psi shouldn't warrant forged internals at all provided it is fueled & timed right.
Ananth, I never ran a turbo earlier. In the midst of planning to go turbo, somewhere in the line I shifted it to a high compression build so that I could take the car on track. Then finances got strapped, out went the roll cage and lowered suspension. And the car became a pain for daily driving. Then kept having headgasket issues as the higher compression would lead to headgaskets giving way.

My pistons were setup for about 2mm over the deck height and I used a double headgasket to reduce the CR a bit. Then I took off the 2mm longer forged conrods and got it back to stock deck height. What issues I am having right now is that the car won't idle and a strange clanking sound is emanating either from the engine or the gearbox. Though this seems to disappear once the engine warms up. Just want to get that checked now and get the car to idle properly. Right now the minute the needle goes below 1k the car goes off.

Quote:
Neither should your 150 hp goal require the use of anything other than stock compression and the stock camshaft. Sorry for asking, but did you run a race cam with the turbocharger earlier?
Like I mentioned earlier I have already procured forged conrods and a shorter crank for the turbo I had planned. Yes, I am running a performance cam. Actually its not much but the duration is about 270 degrees. The cam kicks in at 2,800 and carries all the way to redline. I am told with the valve springs I have it can take upto 8,000.

Quote:
Also - noticed that the G16B is a SOHC, wouldnt a DOHC produce more power?
I am told that is possible. That would indeed increase the power by another 7-10% and there are tons of aftermarket cams available for the DOHC. But something like that would mean going way away from an Indian build. Not something I am looking forward.
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Old 4th September 2007, 15:02   #71
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Rahul, clanking noise from the engine should not be ignored at all. especially if its from the bottom end. Should be stripped and inspected immediately, and it advisable not to redline it.
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Old 4th September 2007, 15:24   #72
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Rahul, go for the TC'd Baleno. It's more fun achieving so much with your own dear daily drive Baleno than going in for a swap.
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Old 4th September 2007, 15:33   #73
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Rahul, clanking noise from the engine should not be ignored at all. especially if its from the bottom end. Should be stripped and inspected immediately, and it advisable not to redline it.
Managed to get rid of the puncture today and started the car so that the battery wont go kaput. Strangely no sound. Idled the car for about 15mins, then decided to go for a quick round about my area. No sound whatsoever. Either ways car has not run for over 20 days now. Will be taking it to the garage over the next couple of days and leave it for a complete service. Lets see whats the outcome. Only problem I faced today is the idling. And the car is running slightly rich. Thanks to the meter on the FPR gone bust. Need remember to fix that as well.
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Old 6th September 2007, 20:40   #74
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Decision is taken. Turbo Charged Baleno it will be. Will be putting up a thread in a short while mentioning why and other technical details I would like info about. Thanks a ton to all for your valuable inputs. Hope to see you guys contribute on that thread too. Once again thanks a ton to all those who have chipped in with their views and votes.
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