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Old 1st August 2017, 05:53   #61
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Try Tung Oil finish Please. It is a good solution for exposed wooden surfaces. Can be easily reapplied. Directly available in Mumbai from importers who import it from China.
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Old 1st August 2017, 08:15   #62
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Try Tung Oil finish Please. It is a good solution for exposed wooden surfaces. Can be easily reapplied. Directly available in Mumbai from importers who import it from China.
Reapplying is an issue as the frame goes from the ground to 30ft height. That's why going for spar varnish as it will only be needed to be applied every two years and not every six months like other options. For all other window or doors am going with the cheapest option of wax as I can reapply it whenever I want as I have a power polisher which makes buffing a matter of minutes instead of hours.
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Old 1st August 2017, 16:12   #63
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Cannot comment on the long lasting part - as woodworking is a recent hobby that I have picked up , and only been practicing for the past 3-4 yrs.

Till date none of my builds using SR998 (laminate to plywood) have disintegrated.
Most (refinished dining chairs, my dad's writing table etc) are used heavily.
My home does experience extreme temperatures (low 40s to mid teens) and humidity variations, so only time can tell if anything falls apart - which I don't think is gonna happen.
Its been my personal experience and also knowledge received from multiple carpenters as my wife is an interior designer. Fevicol is a better option even though it takes longer to bond and needs additional work.
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Old 8th August 2017, 15:10   #64
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Cannot comment on the long lasting part - as woodworking is a recent hobby that I have picked up , and only been practicing for the past 3-4 yrs. Till date none of my builds using SR998 (laminate to plywood) have disintegrated.
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SR998 is faster to work with and gives more productivity to carpenters. For long term bonding its still Fevicol. SR998 gives away with temperature and humidity variations over a period of 2-3 years.
I use BOTH. I had seen a carpenter do this:
What I do is, that I use SR998 at the edges (say about 2 inches from edges and the remaining large areas in between with Fevicol SH.
Usually I do this for large spread portions but I agree with blackasta that the wood pieces I did solely with SR998 have also stayed put together.
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On one such occasion, I was left with small portions of both the solutions so I did what every Indian does in such scenario - JUGAAD (Indian word for improvisation) and mixed both of them to get ample quantity for that specific job.
The mixed solution did the job pretty well but caused lots of bubbles that I had to press out using roller (kitchen pin).

Regards-Sonu
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Old 27th October 2017, 15:04   #65
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I recently fell into the wood working hobby. I made a chopping board out of waste teak wood for wife and current seasoning it with oil. Will share a picture soon.

I intend to make a simple and functional study table for kid and a baby crib that can be assembled/removed.
I have the design in mind and yet to pen down. I seek advice on the wood material available such as teak, pine or even packing wood and its approximate costs.
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Old 14th March 2018, 00:12   #66
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I somehow managed to build a table that I would probably use to do some DIY wood projects. It was a massive piece of wood on which I plan to install a vise!

Here are some pictures of my hands on!

I have some questions!

1. How can I make the rough edges on the foot of the table to be softer and have some curvy corners?

2. In one of the Leg, there is a huge crack. It probably occurred because of me drilling heavily to attach the foot to the table. Hoe can I fix this? Should I glue something to it so that it does not crack any further?
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Last edited by joe1980 : 14th March 2018 at 00:14.
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Old 14th March 2018, 00:27   #67
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1. How can I make the rough edges on the foot of the table to be softer and have some curvy corners?
You can use
a) A roundover bit with a router
b) A hand plane to smooth the edges at a bevel
c) Just use simple sand paper at an angle to round the edges.
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Old 14th March 2018, 00:32   #68
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Originally Posted by rdst_1 View Post
You can use
a) A roundover bit with a router
b) A hand plane to smooth the edges at a bevel
c) Just use simple sand paper at an angle to round the edges.
Cool! Thanks for the quick reply. I understand that I can go with one of the 3 options or? The sand paper option seems more economical to me, but will it give the foot a polished finish or does it depend on how I sand it?

Can you give some examples of option a and b?
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Old 14th March 2018, 00:38   #69
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Cool! Thanks for the quick reply. I understand that I can go with one of the 3 options or? The sand paper option seems more economical to me, but will it give the foot a polished finish or does it depend on how I sand it?

Can you give some examples of option a and b?
You can use either of the 3 options.
None of them can give a polished finish, but all of them will give a smooth finish. For a polished finish you will actually have to apply a finish to the wood, which I think you should do if you want to use the table for a long time.
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Old 14th March 2018, 00:57   #70
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Originally Posted by rdst_1 View Post
You can use either of the 3 options.
None of them can give a polished finish, but all of them will give a smooth finish. For a polished finish you will actually have to apply a finish to the wood, which I think you should do if you want to use the table for a long time.
What devices or tools do I need for Options a and b?

Yes, I plan to use this table for a long time. What finish do you recommend? The legs of the table are European Spruce! What sort of finish should I apply after sanding it?
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Old 14th March 2018, 11:03   #71
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Originally Posted by joe1980 View Post
I somehow managed to build a table
My 2 cents - the wood used for the legs seem to be wet and not seasoned, and that's why it has cracked.

You can use a small block plane to round over the edges of the leg. But planing / polishing is best done before the joinery than after.

From the joinery, I am not sure about the stability of the table.
Heavy workbenches should have top & bottom stretchers to control the wobble, and maybe diagonal ones too. Then the top is added to the carcass.
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Old 14th March 2018, 17:20   #72
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Originally Posted by blackasta View Post
My 2 cents - the wood used for the legs seem to be wet and not seasoned, and that's why it has cracked.

You can use a small block plane to round over the edges of the leg. But planing / polishing is best done before the joinery than after.

From the joinery, I am not sure about the stability of the table.
Heavy workbenches should have top & bottom stretchers to control the wobble, and maybe diagonal ones too. Then the top is added to the carcass.
Thanks for the suggestions. The table is very stable from my point of view. I measure stability by trying to shake the table with brute force and if I do that, it does not shake even a little. So I'd say, the table is very very stable and can take a beating, provided my definition of stability is valid! Even then, I will probably install the top and bottom stretchers on both the front and the back just to make it even more stable!

I will probably go over the legs of the table with a sand paper to make the rough edges smoother. This table is sitting in the cellar so it does not have to look beautiful. So if I can get a decent amount of softness on the legs that would be more than enough!

Last edited by joe1980 : 14th March 2018 at 17:21.
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