The SAGA of Low_Bass_Makker

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

I agree with navin and gunbir both of u the crossover are bulit in a different leauge but the installs where i have see the iridium used are 100% active not in a single one I have never seen a install in which these crossover are used.....any ways till now i am in a dilemma wether to go for active or stay for passive till the subs arrive.......

Go active... Its fairly easy for you cuz you have the H701... Get a nice 2ch amp for the woofers, use your 4ch for the mid and tweets...

[Autophile]

Originally Posted by navin

maybe because the tweeter and woofer only need Lp and HP sections the midrange needs both so they made they divided the XO this way. If you were biamping youd just bypass the LP section of the XO.

DLS is saving on the cost (mould, inventory etc) for bulding a bigger crossover enclosure for 3 Way setup. Hence they are using the two 2-Way enclosures (with tweeters & midbass crossover in one and midrange crossover in the other).

In biamping also...ideally it should be midrange and tweeter together and midbass seperate, in best case in high end 3 Way the crossover should permit triamping.

LBM, go for active using your H701...that will give you better SQ than the passive crossovers along with more control and flexibility.

[low_bass_makker]

ya I agree with u that active setup is a great sounding one but right now I am in the state of KB and sk will hav to wait for a while before doing something nd also the subs are coming very close........lol

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by Autophile

DLS is saving on the cost (mould, inventory etc) for bulding a bigger crossover enclosure for 3 Way setup. Hence they are using the two 2-Way enclosures (with tweeters & midbass crossover in one and midrange crossover in the other).

Nope, the box that they are using for the crossover is from a standard off-the-shelf open tool made by a Chinese manufacturer. They just have to design the PCB for that layout and put it all together. No moulds for this one. There are many crossover boxes like this for 3-way systems that could have been used, and buying 2 3-way boxes would be cheaper than 4 of these guys. Anyway, it's unusual!

[low_bass_makker]

ok guys lets get back to topic , about the damping ....my door also sings when i play my system.... and i don like it at all........lol

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

ok guys lets get back to topic , about the damping ....my door also sings when i play my system.... and i don like it at all........lol

So you have "the Doors" playing live in your car all the time...

But Seriously, the Swift needs a LOT of damping for your setup. You need to allocate a decent budget.

[low_bass_makker]

thats why i am ask for good damping solution .......

[iraghava]

Originally Posted by gunbir

So you have "the Doors" playing live in your car all the time...

HAHAHA Good one Gunbir!!

Originally Posted by gunbir

You need to allocate a decent budget.

"Budget??? What's that??How do you spell that word??" I guess that's going to be LBM's first question

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

thats why i am ask for good damping solution .......

Be prepared to spend for damping. I think you will need at least 2 sheets (Rs 1250 each) of the high end Wurth damping for your boot area. For your doors to do a 3 stage damping you will need around 20 sheets of AZcomp Fonomat (Rs 220 each) per front door! Say another 10 for each rear door. Add to that FonoGel (Rs 2440 per can) where required.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by iraghava

"Budget??? What's that??How do you spell that word??" I guess that's going to be LBM's first question

Yaar iraghava I am not a big spender it is just a little bit of some think I like....

ok now the budget gunbir has give comes to

Originally Posted by gunbir

I think you will need at least 2 sheets (Rs 1250 each) of the high end Wurth damping for your boot area.
For your doors to do a 3 stage damping you will need around 20 sheets of AZcomp Fonomat (Rs 220 each) per front door!
Say another 10 for each rear door. Add to that FonoGel (Rs 2440 per can) where required.

that is
1) boot -> 1250 x 2 = 2500
2) front door -> 220 x 20 = 4400
3) rear door -> I think i am not using those speakers so i think we can omit it as the door do not vibrate
4) extra fono gel -> 2440

thats comes out to be = 9340

not bad as compared to the ICE cost.....

now what does dynamat gives us in this field , I have seen the door damping kit any inputs....

also gubir the 3 stage means the
1) door inside outer wall


2) inside opeing of the door


3) the door cover

am I right

[sk456]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

Yaar iraghava I am not a big spender it is just a little bit of some think I like....

Even though I believe that Wealth is a relative concept....BUT...
Dude... u jsut spent 98k on compos... . thats certainly im sure does not qualify as "being on a budget"... thats double my entire set up cost...on jsut a pair of compos.... and u like get a serious upgrade almsot every week .... ...

But i commend you on your enthusiasm and passion for ICE.... frankly T BHP is alll about passion....

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

ok now the budget gunbir has give comes to

that is
1) boot -> 1250 x 2 = 2500
2) front door -> 220 x 20 = 4400
3) rear door -> I think i am not using those speakers so i think we can omit it as the door do not vibrate
4) extra fono gel -> 2440

thats comes out to be = 9340

Actually I was saying

1) boot -> 1250 x 2 = 2500
2) front door -> 220 x 20 = 4400 per door
3) rear door -I would recommend you do these. They will rattle eventually.
4) extra fono gel -> 2440

thats comes out to be = around 14k

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

now what does dynamat gives us in this field , I have seen the door damping kit any inputs....
also gunbir the 3 stage means the
1) door inside outer wall
2) inside opeing of the door
3) the door cover
am I right

Yes, That is right... You are welcome to try out Dynamat. I would only suggest Dynamat Extreme, not the Original.

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by sk456

Dude... u jsut spent 98k on compos... . thats certainly im sure does not qualify as "being on a budget"...

Actually SK, 98k is the overpriced retail price for the set which retails in the US for $1000. LBM has picked them up for 26k as he has mentioned elsewhere... They are a fair buy at that price...

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by gunbir

1) boot -> 1250 x 2 = 2500
2) front door -> 220 x 20 = 4400 per door
3) rear door -I would recommend you do these. They will rattle eventually.
4) extra fono gel -> 2440
thats comes out to be = around 14k

I would only suggest Dynamat Extreme, not the Original.

Actually SK, 98k is the overpriced retail price for the set which retails in the US for $1000. LBM has picked them up for 26k as he has mentioned elsewhere... They are a fair buy at that price..

ok I left the word per door in the prevoius post. that is noted....

which damping matrial u have given to me that had a 5 - sheet packing.....was it FONOMAT 425 and which one ur recommnding now....

what is the price range of dyanmat extreme in case I go for it.....

and last and not the least I did not got my iridium for 26k.......

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

ok I left the word per door in the prevoius post. that is noted....

which damping matrial u have given to me that had a 5 - sheet packing.....was it FONOMAT 425 and which one ur recommnding now....

what is the price range of dyanmat extreme in case I go for it.....

and last and not the least I did not got my iridium for 26k.......

LBM, I think the Wurth does a damn fine job of damping. I think it's the same one that I can see in one of the pics before, where you can see that chequered black material on the red door. At 1250 bucks for a 3'x1.5' sheet it's nearly 5 times cheaper per sq. ft. than Dynamat regular also. Moral, since it's so cheap, and if you think it's inferior, use 2 layers man! You're still safe, and you still under the damping restrictions for a Street Class dB drag entry.

Liquid damping is good if you cant reach portions of the surface to be damped with a sheet, corners, crevices. In any case, you should look out for the underbody treatment sprays. There are several with sound deadening properties that you can buy at a good price. I use a product (that I can't name here). Costs about 400 bucks for a 500ml can. Does a brilliant job. Just gotta be careful you dont spray it on other parts, cos it's got tar and can become messy.