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Old 7th July 2010, 12:52   #2581
mkh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garipagol View Post
No Confusion mkh. Klasse AIO is a polish. You cannot layer AIO. You can leave it after AIO for limited protection but for best results you will have to follow it up with Klasse Sealant glaze. The KSG is a pure sealant and can be layered.

The wolfgang combo is the Paint restorer and the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.

You will have to use a pair for best results. You can layer a wax coat after the Polish from either but wax has a limited life under India conditions. The use of these polishes will leave your paint / clearcoat unprotected so best is to use the sealant. Then wax if you wish.

I use wolfgang currently - it is excellent. Layer the sealant twice and you can see the shrink wrap (as if). The shine is a little plastic-ee. But the coating is there to see. Water just rolls off. Lay a pure wax on it if you want the wet look for a short time.

Rgds
Yes i got the steps to a complete process, had known it but more from Megs point of view
Plan to use this- Klasse AIO( there is a Klasse AIO+Sealant also, will that be a better option?)
Then use a sealant- options are WG, BF or even NXT 2.0(which is also a sealant)
Then plan to use Collinite or a Carnuba wax
Looks like this is a complete process. Another question- for a NEW CAR, do we need to use AIO, or just a sealant and wax?(post claying)
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Old 7th July 2010, 13:09   #2582
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^ depends on paint condition!!

If the paint is defect(swirl)-free then you can just use a sealant-glaze or a sealant alone!

multiple layer of sealant(3-4) will help the paint to become swirl resistant!
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Old 7th July 2010, 13:42   #2583
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Sohail99,
Can you please summarise your recommendations from your rich experience what is best suited procedure for my 15 day old White car ?

Thank you.
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Old 7th July 2010, 14:56   #2584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
^ depends on paint condition!!

If the paint is defect(swirl)-free then you can just use a sealant-glaze or a sealant alone!

multiple layer of sealant(3-4) will help the paint to become swirl resistant!
Nothing is swirl free- especially new cars. However the level is too less and one cannot see them unless in the night lamp( the street light)
I have yet to see a car, even post treatment that is 0 swirls, not sure if that can be achieved unless using a DA. If you see the pics of cars post treatment, swirls cannot be seen, they can anyways not be seen in the pic, only at an angle unless hard swirls.
In light colours the swirls cannot even be seen -but for dark cars, they can be seen under the light to a trained eye. My new car has few- but with the treatment i have done, they are almost hidden now. Adding layers does help for sure.Not sure if should do a full cycle again or just keep adding sealant layers and then wax.

Last edited by mkh : 7th July 2010 at 14:59.
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:03   #2585
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I saw a xenon lamp available at a car care product shop, which is meant to show swirls and other paint defects otherwise not visible under normal lighting!

I'll check it out and report back!

Btw you're correct in saying that nothing is swirl free!
I always prefer to fill in the swirls rather than remove all the sealant layers I have been piling up on the paint!

and you wont believe, my i20 hasn't been washed in over 5 months(as I believe that washing = induction of swirls!)!! still the shine can turn my head lol!

a few days ago, I had paint corrected half the hood of my mom's car(removed lots of swirls etc.) , glazed and waxed! even though I could see a dramatic change, to my mom its looked the same! (ppl just don't notice!)


----------------------------------------------

@Remington - If its a daily drive, then I'd recommend 2 coats of collinite(considering that its the best pure wax available here)

if you can source stuff from abroad(a friend or family member coming from US etc.) then getting a sealant through them is definitely recommended!

also, regular washing by 'car wash guy' actually induces swirls(paint defects) in your paint as his technique is definitely defective!(rubbing a dirty wet cloth on the car! its actually painful even to imagine that!!)

I'd recommend you wash your car using the 2 bucket technique -

to minimize any paint defects from creeping in!

General method for a new car is - Wash(2-bucket method) > wax(collinite or if possible, a sealant and then collinite after 24 hrs of curing)

you can apply 2 layers of wax with 24 hrs between the 1st and the 2nd coat to ensure even coverage of the whole vehicle!

a good quality car cover(Polco Tyvek) and a duster(jopasu car duster) will go a long way in maintaining that 'just out of showroom' look!(as it'll minimize the need for washing the vehicle)

remember, maintaining a new car is much more easier than restoring a paint full of defects later on!(if its a DIY)

Last edited by sohail99 : 7th July 2010 at 15:18.
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:15   #2586
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Sohail, Any techniques to handle minute chips in the paint due to small projectiles encountered on road?
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:30   #2587
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I have a minute ship on my car's bonnet too!

I've left it alone since every method of correction I've tried only made it look worse!

only way out can be touch up with a super fine brush and a very stable hand! or a touch up paint tube! (there's a thread on TBHP regarding the same)

A preventive measure is available to prevent chips etc. - Scotchgard? Paint Protection Film Solutions

but I couldn't find any supplier or installer here!

Mine happened when I was driving behind a truck(with no mudflaps etc.)
so I'd say you avoid driving behind such vehicles!
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:32   #2588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkh View Post
Yes i got the steps to a complete process, had known it but more from Megs point of view
Plan to use this- Klasse AIO( there is a Klasse AIO+Sealant also, will that be a better option?)
Then use a sealant- options are WG, BF or even NXT 2.0(which is also a sealant)
Then plan to use Collinite or a Carnuba wax
Looks like this is a complete process. Another question- for a NEW CAR, do we need to use AIO, or just a sealant and wax?(post claying)
mkh - Klasse AIO is the ONLY product. It is a acrylic polish and sealant combined (red bottle). It is also protective but they themselves recommend - use it as a polish and then follow it up with the sealant glaze (gray bottle) for best results.

Wolfgang Paintwork polish enhancer is a oil-water solution. If you use this the deep gloss sealant is a must to protect your paint.

Ideally you should use a pair (polish & sealant) from the same brand to avoid bonding issues.

As for new cars, the dealer typically quick details it before delivery unless you specifically ask for "detailed" detail (extra cost?). Often new cars, before the dealer prepares them for delivery are dirtier than what you would imagine. Klasse recommend that you use both products for new cars at least the first time.

Rgds
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:41   #2589
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Even I got one on my bonnet. Not sure what caused it. But most probably from projectiles flying off a sand laden truck. I feel these things are inevitable on our roads.
I am also refraining from doing some thing on that due to the fear of worsening the appearance.

Last edited by poloman : 7th July 2010 at 15:45.
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Old 7th July 2010, 15:43   #2590
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Originally Posted by akshay1234 View Post
hey guys, i have a problem. 5-6 days ago my car was parked in the open and some paint or something fell off my building onto the car. at first i thought it was bird droppings but after 3-4 days i saw it was still there inspite of being washed. then i saw it was some paint kind of thing. some painters were working in the building i got them to take it off the window glass with thinner, but i didnt get any thinner put on the patches on the car paint. the thinner would mess the pain up i presume. there are 2-3 patches probably 1x1inch.
how do i remove these?
What type of paint ? oil based or is it outdoor paints for walls? The latter has bonding polymers which will make the paint cling to your car surface. The best solution is to clay the surface to see it goes away. The outdoor paint will disappear if you are patient with the clay. Do not forget to polish the section and use sealant/wax.

Rgds
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Old 7th July 2010, 16:04   #2591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garipagol View Post
mkh - Klasse AIO is the ONLY product. It is a acrylic polish and sealant combined (red bottle). It is also protective but they themselves recommend - use it as a polish and then follow it up with the sealant glaze (gray bottle) for best results.

Wolfgang Paintwork polish enhancer is a oil-water solution. If you use this the deep gloss sealant is a must to protect your paint.

Ideally you should use a pair (polish & sealant) from the same brand to avoid bonding issues.

As for new cars, the dealer typically quick details it before delivery unless you specifically ask for "detailed" detail (extra cost?). Often new cars, before the dealer prepares them for delivery are dirtier than what you would imagine. Klasse recommend that you use both products for new cars at least the first time.

Rgds
Check this
Amazon.com: Klasse All-In-One Polish and Sealant: Automotive
and this is the AIO:
Amazon.com: Klasse All In One 10 oz.: Automotive
They don't look like the same product or are they! IF the first one is a polish+sealant, better to use that.
I saw the sealant and glaze( silver bottle) that is recommended. Read a few reviews where they mentioned, can be skipped. Also there is a kit, where AIO is sold with another sealant, so adding another sealant may work, though i agree that should stick to only the same brand pairs. Thinking of adding BF sealant on AIO or AIO+NXT and then Collinite
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Old 7th July 2010, 16:16   #2592
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Guys, any one has a remedy for the glue stains on windows post removal of sun film ?

How can i safely remove it without affecting the glass ?
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Old 7th July 2010, 18:26   #2593
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Any mild solvent should do!

try vinegar(I'd try both the things you mentioned in your previous post!)
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Old 7th July 2010, 22:26   #2594
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Guys, i was having a problem of some kind of coating on the windsheild as well as the windows. This was there when i first took delivery but i noticed only later on.

I have explained about it more in detail in my ownership thread for anyone interested.
Link- http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ew-fe-fig.html

All the solutions i tried did not work. Things i tried
Dishwash solution
Lime
Vinegar
Tile cleaning acid
Colin glass cleaner.

I even complained about it during first service for which they did some polishing. It reduced it a bit but did not remove it.

Well finally i managed to remove the coating and the glass is not crystal clear. What i used was a product from Reckitt Benckiser called "Silvo". It is used to polish silver articles. They also have a product called "Brasso" for brass.

Applied it with a cloth and after about 5 minuted used a wet cloth to buff it off with some pressure.

Thought it might help those looking for solutions to get rid of stuff from windsheild/glass.

nirmaljusdoit - You could try this. I would reccommend using it in a corner first . Another solution i know is using rubbing alcohol. You get it at the chemist if you ask for "Surgical spirit"

One more product i tried out was something called "Roberts Bumper Black" from Pidilite.

It is for faded and old bumpers and plastic trim. I used it on my dads car and got good results. It is silicon based. It has stayed put for 2 weeks now and has withstood a couple of rain showers and washings.
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Old 8th July 2010, 02:22   #2595
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Sorry for consecutive posts.
Beyond the "edit" time .

It should be "Well finally i managed to remove the coating and the glass is now* crystal clear "

Came back after the football semifinal and noticed it . Go Spain!
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