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Old 26th July 2010, 16:50   #2716
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Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS View Post
@nirmaljusdoit : paaji , no pain no gain just joking .

Some awesome results there , congratulations !!!

please answere some questions
  1. Till how much time one has to rub UC on paint ?? and how to know tht its ready to remove ???
  2. i hope , i can use sonax auto polish as a finishing polish/glaze after UC and before Wax.
  3. Did you pay any customs duty on your autogeek package ??
  4. is the bottel of quick detailer , which come with clay kit enough for whole car ??
  5. Can i use same clay on paint again after cleaning glass with it ???
Waiting for my answers
Helping nirmal out as he may want to rest his arm
UC needs to be worked into the paint, go in circular motions till it 'breaks" down. IT will start to diminish and thats when you know enough.
The bottle of detailer is MORE than enough
Clay bar should be clean- make a new section of clean clay bar to re-use
These are what i can answer, correct me if am wrong nirmal
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Old 26th July 2010, 19:12   #2717
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Thanks Notorious !

You described it perfectly - the thought of the shine at the end of it kept me going through it all !!

Thanks MKH ! - just to add :
1. UC should not be allowed to try, buffing it off would be even more laborious.

2. Not sure about Sonax, as far as i know, polish is to nourish the paint & bring out the color, does this do that ?

3. Yes, the customs duty was around 30% on the goods+shipping. Applied by the customs directly & we have no say in the matter. Btw, shipping cost was more than the product cost (125 USD vs 130 USD)

4. I had to clay each panel twice, used up less than half the bottle. I think we can use Ultimate quik detailer too. Its basically to lube the surface so u dont end up scratching it.

5. Sure you can, just knead it & expose a fresh surface ! Kneading it would give your finger joints a super workout !
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Old 26th July 2010, 20:50   #2718
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Nice!!

I tried UC with a rotary polisher and a wool cutting pad on my mom's car's severely swirled bonnet

just worked on like 8"x10" area at a time(while following usual safety precautions while using a rotary). I worked it in for maybe a minute and a half at speed '2' and occasionally '3'

after I wiped down the residue with IPA, the result was far better than what I have ever achieved by hand! but moving a rotary around the bonnet is a real shoulder ache!!

After I'm experienced enough, I'll start using it on my car(only the problem areas)

Anyways, got a call from Mr. Amit from Divine carz spa, he said that Bosch dealers here have GEX 125 AE professional DA sander which can be used as a polisher and he can get it!

I'll be going to some hardware shops tomorrow to check out Bosch GEX 270AE which a dealer claimed was for 2900only!!!
I asked him twice and he agreed to the price!

will go tomm and update ASAP!
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Old 26th July 2010, 22:16   #2719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
Nice!!

I tried UC with a rotary polisher and a wool cutting pad on my mom's car's severely swirled bonnet

just worked on like 8"x10" area at a time(while following usual safety precautions while using a rotary). I worked it in for maybe a minute and a half at speed '2' and occasionally '3'

after I wiped down the residue with IPA, the result was far better than what I have ever achieved by hand! but moving a rotary around the bonnet is a real shoulder ache!!

After I'm experienced enough, I'll start using it on my car(only the problem areas)

Anyways, got a call from Mr. Amit from Divine carz spa, he said that Bosch dealers here have GEX 125 AE professional DA sander which can be used as a polisher and he can get it!

I'll be going to some hardware shops tomorrow to check out Bosch GEX 270AE which a dealer claimed was for 2900only!!!
I asked him twice and he agreed to the price!

will go tomm and update ASAP!
Sohail, an advice to reduce your sweating session tomorrow. Rather than going to different parts of the city, go to Chawri Bazaar, this place is a heaven for tools.
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Old 26th July 2010, 22:36   #2720
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That is exactly what I had in mind!!

Thanks for the heads up! will update with quotes and addresses tomorrow!
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Old 26th July 2010, 22:50   #2721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
That is exactly what I had in mind!!

Thanks for the heads up! will update with quotes and addresses tomorrow!
I was at AMTEX Machine Tools Exhibition today and came across Black and Decker's WP 1300 K 180mm Car Polisher (with Kit box and accessories) and KP 600 (Random Orbital Waxer and Polisher). The contact details are:
M.S. Sawarl - 09818782249

I don't remember the prices he quoted. Moreover, check them for portable Pressure Washers. He also gave me a card of the shop at Chawri which sells B&D products, I can't find it at the moment; maybe Mr. Sawarl may help you on this.
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Old 27th July 2010, 11:48   #2722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
That is exactly what I had in mind!!

Thanks for the heads up! will update with quotes and addresses tomorrow!
Eagerly awaiting your find - i will want the same asap else have to get it from the UK. Wondering if can find a place in BLR for this

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk13 View Post
I was at AMTEX Machine Tools Exhibition today and came across Black and Decker's WP 1300 K 180mm Car Polisher (with Kit box and accessories) and KP 600 (Random Orbital Waxer and Polisher). The contact details are:
M.S. Sawarl - 09818782249

I don't remember the prices he quoted. Moreover, check them for portable Pressure Washers. He also gave me a card of the shop at Chawri which sells B&D products, I can't find it at the moment; maybe Mr. Sawarl may help you on this.
I searched on google for the machine and guess what- the first page listed is your posting here
Not sure about B&D quality though, but if cheap, then worth a try!
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Old 27th July 2010, 12:55   #2723
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Looking forward to all the updates - DA sorely needed !! Can some one shed some light what are the differences between a rotary & a DA ? Is a DA safer ? I guess not only we have to look for a DA but do we get different quality of DA pads in the market ?
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Old 27th July 2010, 16:01   #2724
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guys, has anyone used Quixx for scratch removal. I've a chennai dealer of Quixx and requested for one pack. It would cost around 425 rs. let me see how good the results are.
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Old 28th July 2010, 11:29   #2725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit View Post
Looking forward to all the updates - DA sorely needed !! Can some one shed some light what are the differences between a rotary & a DA ? Is a DA safer ? I guess not only we have to look for a DA but do we get different quality of DA pads in the market ?
The difference is in the drive mechanism. In a Rotary the backing plate (& pad) are directly driven by the motor. So it has more power and in the hands of an expert can yield results quickly. However, due its power, it generates heat very quickly on the paint surface and can cause the paint to "burn" and be damaged. Also because it spins on one axis, an amateur can introduce swirl like damage to the paint. One needs to have very good knowledge about the tolerances of the paint surface being worked on and needs to closely inspect the surface frequently. Professional detailers prefer rotary for paint correction. the speed of a rotary is measured in RPM.

The DA on the other hand drives the backing plate (& pad) through a system of gears. With that they generate the "dual action". The pad rotates on an orbital axis and within that orbit it also spins. Very much like the earth going round the sun and itself rotating. This causes a throw in the pad like your hand polishing motion. The speed is less and is measured on OPM (operations per minute). Because of the nature of motion of the pad the heat generated is less and therefore it is safer on the paint. It also takes longer for the same job than a rotary. professionals prefer DA to wax and apply sealant.

Go to the autogeek forum and look at the treads on DA polishers.

IMHO, you should stay with the DA.

Rgds
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Old 28th July 2010, 13:16   #2726
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This is being written by ONE BIG happy detailer
I had run a pass of megs UC when my car came new, the surface swirls did not go. I think it was because the paint was new and hard, and also i did not use it that diligently. Was really feeling frustrated at what to do since do not have a DA also.
I now applied a second round since i wanted to try out before i got the Klasse, BF products with me, and worked one panel at a time for about 30 minutes in all going over slowly. A few observations:
1. It works well to use a microfiber applicator pad, gives better grip than using a foam applicator( which is better for waxing)
2. If you lubricate it in between with a detailer, job gets easier.
3. WIth hand, UC needs to be really worked into the paint, keep going in circles till it becomes tough to go over, which means the compound has broken into the paint work well.
And lo and behold- the surface swirls and even almost all the criss cross lines are gone!!! I re-applied to where i could see them against the night light and it works! The key is to see against the light at night moving your eye at the same level as the surface, in the day light one cannot see as well and get a feeling they are gone before they actually are. This time i did some work at night, so it helped me work more where needed
Applying NXT over it was a breeze, it was amazing to see how easily it spread over the prepped areas
Now my plan is to do 1 hour a day on each panel, till i got it all covered. I just hope these are REAL removals and not just a case of getting hidden! I doubt this because have examined before applying any sealant, which i will not do till i get the Black Fire
@Sohail- I was reading about Klasse AIO and BF( Black Fire wet diamond) since about to get them,( can see you jump with joy as your stuff will come along also)
I think its an overkill to apply BF over Klasse AIO. I think these guys want to sell more so say buy a glaze over Klasse AIO. Most users say Klasse + Wax is enough.
BF and Klasse are quoted as doing the same work. Maybe applying many layers of NXT over Klasse and then topping with collinite is a better option?

Last edited by mkh : 28th July 2010 at 13:36. Reason: formatting
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Old 28th July 2010, 15:02   #2727
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First of all, sorry for not getting the quotes yet! :(

Actually they are right in saying that Klasse + wax is enough(they might be living in a place which doesn't see hot climates or their car is properly garaged/covered)

Also, you can apply NXT layers over Klasse. But I read at lots of forums that NXT contains mild paint cleaners and fillers. I am kinda skeptical in layering a sealant with such cleaners etc.

Even though Megs claim that the cleaners are so mild that they don't strip off the previous layer, they do thin it out a bit! (tiny bit)

BF on the other hand is a pure sealant(no cleaners, nothing) and you can layer it as much as you like without compromising the previous layer!

+ BF is acrylic polymer based and NXT is Synthetic polymer based (I just know that acrylic polymer based products tend to sheet water better!)
and it allegedly creates a slicker finish!

+ we should try everything! the search for a perfect sealant will never end! lol


You can always experiment with NXT and BF(like Klasse > NXT layers > collinite)

then afterward, when the paint needs re-treatment, then again Klasse/or no klasse > BF > collinite)

You'll find the best combo of sealant/wax for your paint only after experimenting!

and yes I'm jumping with joy! all thanks to you man!

Last edited by sohail99 : 28th July 2010 at 15:22.
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Old 28th July 2010, 17:11   #2728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
First of all, sorry for not getting the quotes yet! :(

Actually they are right in saying that Klasse + wax is enough(they might be living in a place which doesn't see hot climates or their car is properly garaged/covered)

Also, you can apply NXT layers over Klasse. But I read at lots of forums that NXT contains mild paint cleaners and fillers. I am kinda skeptical in layering a sealant with such cleaners etc.

Even though Megs claim that the cleaners are so mild that they don't strip off the previous layer, they do thin it out a bit! (tiny bit)

BF on the other hand is a pure sealant(no cleaners, nothing) and you can layer it as much as you like without compromising the previous layer!

+ BF is acrylic polymer based and NXT is Synthetic polymer based (I just know that acrylic polymer based products tend to sheet water better!)
and it allegedly creates a slicker finish!

+ we should try everything! the search for a perfect sealant will never end! lol


You can always experiment with NXT and BF(like Klasse > NXT layers > collinite)

then afterward, when the paint needs re-treatment, then again Klasse/or no klasse > BF > collinite)

You'll find the best combo of sealant/wax for your paint only after experimenting!

and yes I'm jumping with joy! all thanks to you man!
Dude, i got less patience than you, will rather just do this once and let it beYes BF is better as a pure sealant, that's why maybe costs 3 times too almost! Agreed that acrylic ones sheet better and yes the shine and coating is more durable
I think layering NXT is fine, i did that many many times and it works better for sure. For my i-10 , i just have layered NXT and rarely put wax on it.
This time i will try Klasse( which i hope i can apply after a gap of 2days after UC) and then BF layers. Only little apprehension, read one guys post who got more swirls post Klasse- surely must be an aberration, but since Klasse is also a cleaner, maybe gotta try a small area first. It may need a finishing polish,which i do not have.
I am more excited about BF as that has great reviews and creates whiplash apparently!
Once done paint will need re-visit post 6 month min, that's what i could achieve in my last 2 efforts, wish the same. In between will just layer wax. The best thingabout NXT- you can just keep adding layers on it as and when u feel like. With BF and collinite, we cannot add sealant layer unless we strip off collinite,how will we do that?

Last edited by mkh : 28th July 2010 at 17:17.
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Old 28th July 2010, 22:13   #2729
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1. It works well to use a microfiber applicator pad, gives better grip than using a foam applicator( which is better for waxing)
2. If you lubricate it in between with a detailer, job gets easier.
3. WIth hand, UC needs to be really worked into the paint, keep going in circles till it becomes tough to go over, which means the compound has broken into the paint work well.
Thats great Mkh ! Just a few doubts :

2. Do we need to spray the detailer before starting too ? Did you spray while rubbing the UC in or while removing ?

3. Isn't it a pain to buff of the UC once it dries ? It takes a lot more effort to get it off !

Mkh - If Collinite does last as long as its claimed to & used for power lines, then removing it would definitely take some effort !!

Sohail - Very true, the search will never end ! Guess its more of a personal preference & one does need to keep trying to experiment with different products !

Garipagol - Thanks for the inputs, now im clear about the difference between the two !

Guys,
Right now im planning to layer atleast 4 coats of NXT before applying the Collinite 845 this weekend, do you suggest Collinite to bring out more depth & gloss to black color ?
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Old 28th July 2010, 22:30   #2730
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After you have used UC, spray the residue with 90%IPA or 50/50 IPA/Water soln. and then wipe off!

IPA ensures that all the polish is taken off with minimal effort!

Yes, collinite being a carnauba wax will bring depth and wet look to black paint!

but I feel that collinite when compared to premium brands such as Pinnacle souveran etc. doesn't provide that extreme wet appearance to the paint!

I'll be trying P21S Carnauba wax and see the difference between collinite and P21S.

Its more like collinite - durability

Other premium carnauba waxes(Pinnacle SSII, souveran etc.) - extreme jetting!

PS. IPA=Iso Propyl Alcohol/Rubbing alcohol
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