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Old 29th July 2010, 13:14   #2731
mkh
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Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit View Post
Thats great Mkh ! Just a few doubts :

2. Do we need to spray the detailer before starting too ? Did you spray while rubbing the UC in or while removing ?

3. Isn't it a pain to buff of the UC once it dries ? It takes a lot more effort to get it off !

Mkh - If Collinite does last as long as its claimed to & used for power lines, then removing it would definitely take some effort !!

Sohail - Very true, the search will never end ! Guess its more of a personal preference & one does need to keep trying to experiment with different products !

Garipagol - Thanks for the inputs, now im clear about the difference between the two !

Guys,
Right now im planning to layer atleast 4 coats of NXT before applying the Collinite 845 this weekend, do you suggest Collinite to bring out more depth & gloss to black color ?
1, I sprayed the applicator in between and it helped cause the application was becoming tough as the compound gets dry. It helps to work the compound into the surface better
2. Yes thats why i used the detailer, since its tough to get it off once dry
I have done with the entire car almost, yet to see the exact results as did not get to inspect in the night against the light. Will do so and report the results. On the bonnet and rear it was great, hope the same on the roof also. At least till i get a DA, this will do for me. Now waiting eagerly for the AIO and BF. I will try applying BF multiple layers, will apply collinite on the i-10 as that already has layers of NXT.
I do not think for protection we get any value by putting Collinite over Blackfire, over a polish for sure. I think you can put Collinite once a few layers of NXT are done with and then enjoy!
Last evening i went out after the rains and man the car was looking like it went through a mud bath,EXCEPT the roof, bonnet where the magic of waxing worked. Had to wash the entire sides today.
Meanwhile a very interesting thing:
I had written to the megs folks here and the next email i mentioned how carzspa is not exactly the place i expect a megs product to be used properly as they are not fully aware.
I got a reply from the national sales head megs,he said they can come next month and give me a proper treatment for my car and they will send their guy to the outlet!
I want to pass this to other folks who also want a proper megs treatment using a Rotary/DA on their surface. I think its worth it, if we can give a combined business, we can get it for lesser cost. All we need is a pass of Megs 105 followed by 205 and no need for the rest. ( which we can do)
Interested folks please PM, this is a very good chance i feel where we have the attention of some experts who are ready to help us( can be v useful going forward also). I can send you the exact email what i got, do not wish to post it here as it may not be the right thing and not useful for all.
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Old 29th July 2010, 13:47   #2732
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One thing that I found out is that most polishes tend to fill in the slight marring and scratches(almost all of them do that)

also that Glazes are merely 'fillers'. Most detailers prefer a 100%(98%realistically)surface correction and then seal the surface.

Glaze is used in case the dont prefer perfection and need a quick solution(was quite surprised after reading that!)

so after you seal the surface, after 2-3 days these marrings become visible again!

thats where the IPA wipedown comes in. After polishing do the IPA wipedown of the panel to assess the actual correction. IPA removes the fillers and reveals the hidden marrings and scratches.

better to remove them during polishing than to find them afterwards, after applying many layers of LSP!

Also after IPA wipedown, no polish is left on the surface, therefore less chances of LSP-polish interaction/reactions.

If you get the surface treated with Megs 105 and 205, after each and every step, insist on a IPA wipedown of the panel and inspection under a halogen or Xenon lamp.

I hope I was in Bangy! :(
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Old 29th July 2010, 14:25   #2733
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Originally Posted by sohail99 View Post
One thing that I found out is that most polishes tend to fill in the slight marring and scratches(almost all of them do that)

also that Glazes are merely 'fillers'. Most detailers prefer a 100%(98%realistically)surface correction and then seal the surface.

Glaze is used in case the dont prefer perfection and need a quick solution(was quite surprised after reading that!)

so after you seal the surface, after 2-3 days these marrings become visible again!

thats where the IPA wipedown comes in. After polishing do the IPA wipedown of the panel to assess the actual correction. IPA removes the fillers and reveals the hidden marrings and scratches.

better to remove them during polishing than to find them afterwards, after applying many layers of LSP!

Also after IPA wipedown, no polish is left on the surface, therefore less chances of LSP-polish interaction/reactions.

If you get the surface treated with Megs 105 and 205, after each and every step, insist on a IPA wipedown of the panel and inspection under a halogen or Xenon lamp.

I hope I was in Bangy! :(
Now you got me worried, cause i am not sure that all the muscle work has actually removed all the swirls or only filled them up temporarily. Any other easier way than going in for a IPA wipe down? If this is the case, wondering if my first rub down did the same and the many swirls that came back was because they were already there? I too read that with hand its almost impossible to remove swirls - can only hide them. However i inspected against light and very carefully, they are gone looks like. Also UC is a decent cutting compound so looks like with hand too it will cut enough paint to remove swirls. Lets hope it did, else all the hard work gone in vain!
I think even a proper water+shampoo wash will strip off the polish(UC in this case). Worried and confused too!!! Maybe i will do a shampoo wash properly and inspect again as i have not added any layers of any sealant so far.

Last edited by mkh : 29th July 2010 at 14:31.
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Old 29th July 2010, 15:14   #2734
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UC cuts and removes swirls no doubt!

but the light marring left is filled in by the polish residue which doesn't get taken off!(giving the impression of a perfect finish)

After a few days, these micro-marrings appear in the paint as the residue is no longer there!
(I think these were the micro-scratches that we saw!)
Check this out - Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

There are loads of variables out there contributing to a perfect finish! As we go deeper into detailing, the depth seems endless! lol
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Old 29th July 2010, 16:27   #2735
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Thanks MKH, please do update us after a few days on the status of the swirls & scratches. I would still prefer to go for a DA than do by hand as it takes up too much time & too much effort too :( Please do PM the mail you have received, this is good news !

I agree with you, Sohail about the fillers, today morning when i inspected the car, after the 3rd layer of NXT, some of the scratches are becoming more visible. Not very worrying at the moment, but would prefer to have a scratchless finish.

A machine pass is definitely required i feel ! Remove the swirls & scratches, seal off the surface, then maintain to protect from further damage !
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Old 30th July 2010, 11:42   #2736
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I need a help guys.
Where can i get a clay in chennai?
Whether we can clay the glass parts too?
Whether Amway Glaze and Formula 1 Wax are enough to complete the finish after claying?
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Old 30th July 2010, 12:04   #2737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit View Post
Thanks MKH, please do update us after a few days on the status of the swirls & scratches. I would still prefer to go for a DA than do by hand as it takes up too much time & too much effort too :( Please do PM the mail you have received, this is good news !

I agree with you, Sohail about the fillers, today morning when i inspected the car, after the 3rd layer of NXT, some of the scratches are becoming more visible. Not very worrying at the moment, but would prefer to have a scratchless finish.

A machine pass is definitely required i feel ! Remove the swirls & scratches, seal off the surface, then maintain to protect from further damage !
Well some joy is shortlived. I saw the car in the night light, under the tube lights in the parking carefully. The swirls are gone, that is sure, i think mainly as they were minor ones.
There are many random lines, the hairline scratches, which i think maybe also cause of using UC with hand and not applying a finishing polish, or maybe cause not used a machine. Now the ONLY way to find out- run a machine pass and see if they go.
Point to note- to 99% of the people, these will not matter and not even be seen. If i show my car to 10 people, 10 of them will say, wow! But its more out of learning, that i wish to find out, whats the deal with these lines??
Lets hope the megs folks can help out when they are sending an expert.
Sohail- you can even mail them, they will have someone meet you in delhi for sure too man
BTW got Blackfire etc today, full bag of goodies, those who ordered, can wait eagerly as will send them across this weekend maybe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aks_karthik View Post
I need a help guys.
Where can i get a clay in chennai?
Whether we can clay the glass parts too?
Whether Amway Glaze and Formula 1 Wax are enough to complete the finish after claying?
Dunno about clay, amway glaze does a good job as a finishing polish, its very good indeed and i have used that for many years now before discovering megs etc, formula 1 wax sold in a lot of places is fake, just check that

Last edited by mkh : 30th July 2010 at 12:07.
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Old 30th July 2010, 12:32   #2738
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^Yay!!! (YGPM)

yes! I'll try mailing someone! I too showed the paint to many of my friends and none of them could see the hairline scratches!! I even went ahead to show them (by making them look up close, but still nothing!!)

I think we are more 'tuned' to seeing those! lol

@Aks - we get jopasu clay here in India! - http://jopasu.com/claybar.html
send them an email

Last edited by sohail99 : 30th July 2010 at 12:34.
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Old 30th July 2010, 16:10   #2739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkh View Post
Helping nirmal out as he may want to rest his arm
UC needs to be worked into the paint, go in circular motions till it 'breaks" down. IT will start to diminish and thats when you know enough.
The bottle of detailer is MORE than enough
Clay bar should be clean- make a new section of clean clay bar to re-use
These are what i can answer, correct me if am wrong nirmal
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS View Post
@nirmaljusdoit : paaji , no pain no gain just joking .

Some awesome results there , congratulations !!!

please answere some questions
  1. Till how much time one has to rub UC on paint ?? and how to know tht its ready to remove ???
  2. i hope , i can use sonax auto polish as a finishing polish/glaze after UC and before Wax.
  3. Did you pay any customs duty on your autogeek package ??
  4. is the bottel of quick detailer , which come with clay kit enough for whole car ??
  5. Can i use same clay on paint again after cleaning glass with it ???
Waiting for my answers
Pardon my ignorance but what is UC ? Is it an abrasive polish from megs?
The difference between a polish and a "finishing" polish is the abrasives ( "cut") in the polish. The latter having hardly any. So if you use a harsh polish, you must use a finishing polish to restore the shine before using a sealant. If you use a mild polish then you can straight go to the sealant. E.g if you use megs 205 you can jump to sealant. But if you use a harsher polish like 105 you have to use 205 before sealant.

Please appreciate that our vehicles are subjected to far harsher conditions than abroad. One should not get carried away by the "shine" factor and weaken the OEM protection of the clear coat & the paint. Any kind of paint correction removes a layer of this protection and no sealant can replace the clear coat.I would say - stay with finishing polish if you can - wash-clay-finishing polish-sealant-wax(optional) - should be the routine. And maybe once a year swirl removal - this can be done professionally as well if you have access. Remember what we cannot see - can be ignored unless you are entering a competition. Use the best brands and use sparingly when it comes to abrasive polishes. You paint will last longer.

You can use the QD as clay lube, but it is an overkill since QD has other useful uses. If you do not have clay lube you can use shampoo - slightly more concentrated then wash - if you use one spoon for wash use two spoons for lube. You can have a bucket of lube without wasting the QD.

Clay works wonders on glass. I use two separate patties as the yuck picked up from glass & paint are different. But I guess you can use the same patty if you are short on clay. And as you are aware if you have defroster/ antenna / tint painted on the windscreen do not clay that glass.

If you have painted alloys do not forget to wax them as well.

Rgds
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Old 30th July 2010, 17:48   #2740
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UC refers to Meguiars Ultimate Compound - Meguiars Ultimate Compound, polishing compound, rubbing compound, meguiars rubbing compound, meguires, meguiars polish, auto compound polish

a finishing polish is enough most of the time!

we had to use UC because we were working by hand! and Finishing polish by hand is gonna take a looong time with inadequate results!

though if one has a DA and wide selection of pads. No matter what the problem is, finishing polish is the way to go!(maybe a 2nd pass if required)

jeweling is best achieved by DA!

I'll be getting mine after the exams hopefully!

Last edited by sohail99 : 30th July 2010 at 17:49.
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Old 30th July 2010, 21:03   #2741
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I fully agree with garipagol, its just to KNOW what will remove those lines that i wish to get a machine pass and then, its just maintenance and nothing else
Ultimate compound will do nothing much with hand, and that is validated by my painful experience.
The title of my story of the past week- The Swirls Strike Back!!!
I applied clay, then Klasse AIO today on the bonnet, and i can see the swirls back on the side panels, very diff to notice but easy against the light at an angle. I agree that unless entering a competition, the idea is to maintain the car surface and have enough layers of sealant to get super water beading.
So its established- swirls CANNOT go by hand, no wonder the post on autopia by a guy was like - he spent 3-4 months to get them to go by hand!!! Its time to get a DA and apply one pass. Still i am much better off having NOT applied UC and spending 2 hours for 3 days each!!
Two days it rained, giving me a major frusto feeling but negated by the joy of seeing water beading over the surface.
Applied Blackfire today, its supposed to haze, but not sure how it will as its a liquid!! I am used to the haze of paste wax, or liquid wax, this did not haze like that. Is it bonding issue or its the way it should be!
Let me see the effect in the sunlight and then will know whats the big deal about BF Wet Diamond.
SOme pics of the water beading and the stuff i got now
Attached Thumbnails
A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide-30072010154.jpg  

A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide-30072010156.jpg  

A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide-30072010158.jpg  

A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide-30072010155.jpg  

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Old 30th July 2010, 23:08   #2742
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Guys
I am going to spend this sunday waxpoling my new Fiesta Sports. Now, Waxpol is a very hard to buff wax, so, I shall be using a homemade foam pad with my bosch drill to buff it off.
Please give some tips on how to go about it fast and safe.

Should I use the drill in hammer mode or screwdriver mode?
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Old 30th July 2010, 23:17   #2743
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Originally Posted by abhipuru16 View Post
Guys
I am going to spend this sunday waxpoling my new Fiesta Sports. Now, Waxpol is a very hard to buff wax, so, I shall be using a homemade foam pad with my bosch drill to buff it off.
Please give some tips on how to go about it fast and safe.

Should I use the drill in hammer mode or screwdriver mode?
You sure about using a drill with a homemade buff pad? High chance of things going wrong and paint getting damaged IMO (if this is your first time).
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Old 30th July 2010, 23:21   #2744
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@mkh- Nice nice!
Products =

Did u know you can apply BFWD on your windscreen and other windows too!
basically on glass surfaces!

and newer sealants like opti-seal and BF dont haze that much!

btw tried IPA on my mom's car today after polishing!
Megs paint cleaner actually fills in the defects!! though minor correction is there but mostly filling! what a waste! :(

I've heard P21S paint cleaner is the best out there!

Also tried a DIY halogen lamp(my dad built long ago) to look at surface defects, It works beautifully!

you can see each and every marring/RIDS/major swirls etc.

btw After my exams I'll be going on a DA hunting spree! Will definitely get one then!
about time my i20 needs some jeweling!


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackasta View Post
You sure about using a drill with a homemade buff pad? High chance of things going wrong and paint getting damaged IMO (if this is your first time).
I agree!

Before buffing off waxpol, apply a fresh thin layer of the same wax over the panel you're removing wax from, and then remove. It should come off easily!

Last edited by sohail99 : 30th July 2010 at 23:24.
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Old 30th July 2010, 23:33   #2745
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Listening to all this, there is a change of plan. I shall get the hang of it by first waxing my bike.
Till then, should I just water wash my car to remove all the mud etc.?
What is the best and safest way to remove thick mud from my car?
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