Engine not Heating up

[chinkara]

Originally Posted by vigsom

@chinkara, few queries an suggestions

1. does the needle go to the 1/3 mark ,say in approx 5 minutes of driving?if yes,your thermostat is working fine.If it takes say 20 minutes or more to reach that value,then your thermostat is open
2. try this - run the engine and take the temp. needle upto the 1/3 mark,pull over,keep engine running,open bonnet,raise engine and see if the radiator fan cuts in.

It gets up to 1/3 level in 5-10 min. i.e. no different from the past -- so I personally don't think it is open. Will get it checked, however.

On your second question, that is the first thing I checked. When I pulled up at the MSS after an hour long drive, and raced for a while,the radiator fan was on. But the indicator is still showing 1/3 rd.

Regarding Delhi / Gurgaon winters, this is actually a milder one as compared to a few past ones. While the car needs a little time to warm up, I have never seen this before. And I am quite particular about observing the performance indicators. In fact, it always used to be exactly at the half point -- and it has been 8 years with my beloved Wagon R now.

Originally Posted by mayankjha1806

Not sure, but might be different for different cars. In my earlier Indica (there were holes for Clutch/Brake/Accelerator) and when i used to keep my feet on the floor i could always feel the heat and was able to tell if the temperature is at ok level or higher then ok level . Please keep in mind that i devised this method as overheating was a constant recurring problem in Indicas those days.

Same case in my Baleno, there are holes and the overheating only happened once but when it did i did feel it instantly and immediately looked at the temperature gauge (It was not in danger zone, but surely over the 50% mark). Hence immediately took it to Bimal.

Now i would agree i cannot keep using the same logic everywhere, for example Civic's insulation is much much better and i bet i will not notice any heat on my legs even if the engine is on the verge of burning, but you never know.

I had AC switching off / coolant evaporating once (and that was because I was driving through the badlands of UP and did not want to stop) but mostly I like to attend to the problem when the needle goes even slightly above the midway mark. Just my preference -- mainly because I tend to stretch my car a lot.

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[vigsom]

Originally Posted by chinkara

It gets up to 1/3 level in 5-10 min. i.e. no different from the past -- so I personally don't think it is open. Will get it checked, however.

On your second question, that is the first thing I checked. When I pulled up at the MSS after an hour long drive, and raced for a while,the radiator fan was on. But the indicator is still showing 1/3 rd.

Good,now as long as the fan cuts on and cuts off at the 1/3 value,you're fine ; don't worry.

Just to mention here - in the Marutis which had hard gauges(not the new gen LCD type) , like your Wagon-r , the temperature would generally be at 40-45% of full range viz. the needle would be a shade below half.

[chinkara]

Originally Posted by vigsom

Good,now as long as the fan cuts on and cuts off at the 1/3 value,you're fine ; don't worry.

Just to mention here - in the Marutis which had hard gauges(not the new gen LCD type) , like your Wagon-r , the temperature would generally be at 40-45% of full range viz. the needle would be a shade below half.

I hope so. But definitely the temperature used to be at 50% level earlier. Anyway it is in the hospital for diagnosis.

[Aroy]

After driving for more than half an hour the coolant should be hot. Even if the gauge is not rising, please open the bonnet and check if the radiator is warm or hot. If it is warm, and with engine running the fan is also on, then definitely the thermostat is defective and should be replaced. If the radiator is hot, then get the gauge/sensor checked, it may be sticking beyond a point.

Please note that an engine is designed to run at a fairly high temperature. A cold engine will consume more fuel, and combustion acids would accumulate faster in the engine oil. Modern radiator is semi pressurized and coupled with proper coolant should maintain a temperature of around 90 degree plus. Any thing less and it will be less efficient.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Mostly CTS failure. usually there are 2 sensors. Once for the ECM Fan control ( in your case this seems to work properly) The other one is for the gauge. The sensor could be covered in dirt or sludge making the reading less or the resistance could have increased due to bad wiring. so actually your CTS sensor reads half while your gauge sensor reasd much less.