| |||||||
| Register | BHP Garage | Classifieds | Team-BHP FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Technical Stuff Want to know your Vtec, ABS or intercooling better? |
![]() |
| | Thread Tools |
| | #1 (permalink) |
| BHPian | I have a few queries about car's heating, ventilation and air conditioning system (HVAC). It seems most of the manual systems have a "temperature" knob or slider which essentially mixes cold and hot air, obviously comming from AC and heater (better known as heater core, which is nothing but a secondary radiator system). AC can be switched on or off independently but I have never seen such a switch for heater counterpart! If you are wondering why should one need it, here is the reason- Just for simplification, assume that we are using re-circulate mode. Temperature of the air comming out of AC is much below ambient (cabin) temperature, and it is too cold. Whereas the air from heater is too hot. The idea is to create right misture to achieve a temperature little below the ambient, but above what AC produces and maintain it so as to make it as much comfortable as we can. Let us assume temperatures are- T1 - cold air from the AC. T2 - the ambient (cabin). T3 - hot air from the heater core. Clearly the relation is, T1 < T2 < T3 When we set the knob to a desired level, what happens is this: - when the AC compressor is cut in (engaged to the engine), extreem cold air from AC gets mixed with extreem hot air from heater as per the knob setting. The net effect is that the cabin temp starts decreasing. So, T1+T3 = cooling. - when the AC compressor gets cut off (disengaged), air from AC becomes "ambient" air, which is nothing but air from the cabin itself. This air gets mixed with extreem hot air and the result is hotter than the ambient temp, which result in fast warming up of the cabin temp! So, T2+T3 = heating. As a result, the system cycles through cooling and heating alternately. I think there are two disadvantages with this- 1. The cabin temperature fluctuates too much around the desired level, making it either too hot or too cold most of the time. Hence its a compromise on comfort. 2. heating is not required, rather it is undesirable because AC gets unnecessarily forced to work harder than needed, to compensate for the extra heat. Both these problems could have been overcome by having ability to shut off the heater. It will lead to less temperature deviations and saving in power (hence the fuel) required to run the compressor. Instead of cooling and heating cycles, it will result in cooling and "just ventilation" cycles. Similar reasoning applies for "fresh air" mode as well, the only different is that outside air is used for mixing, which would still be closer to the cabin temperature than extreem hot and cold. I think it can easily be done by bypassing the heater core by connecting its inlet directly to the outlet. But this would be a permanent change which is not really a good option. We need heater in cold or rainy wheather for demisting (luckily most cars, at least my baleno, allow us to use AC and heater both at same time, which is requred for demisting). Better solution is to have some kind of valve control to select between heater and bypass duct paths. What say guys? has anybody tried this? Other queries about the compressor on-off control itself: How is it controlled? some people say that there is a dedicated thermostat for this function, whereas others say that it has fixed dealys... confussing If it is a thermostat type, where is it generally located and what is commonly used temperature at which it switches? Is it linked to the "temperature" or blower fan speed controls in any way? I am still talking about manual systems, not climate control ![]() |
| | |
| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bangalore
Posts: 344
| Quote:
In order to make sure that AC system is working well the grille temperature should read +4 degrees +/- 1 degree. The ideal cabin Temp should be 22-27 degrees and the relative Humidity should be 55-70%.So long.... | ||
| | |
| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian | Varun, thanks for the information! a couple of clarifications required, though.... Quote:
Quote:
| ||
| | |
| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bangalore
Posts: 344
| [quote] Quote:
In some top end model you have a seperate knob to direct the Airflow to the lower levels or at your feet, to the middle or either from the sides of your car. This switch does not have a Thermostat but has a simple mechanical flap that direct the air through different ducts leading to this vents. Quote:
So long.... | ||
| | |
| | #5 (permalink) |
| BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: United States
Posts: 122
| Hey Santosh....I think many of the assumptions you have made are not correct to start with. "It seems most of the manual systems have a "temperature" knob or slider which essentially mixes cold and hot air" IMO this is not correct. I presume you are saying a mixing happens so as to control the temperarture of the air. I can explain further how temperature is contolled but for a quick explanation think about it this way.....what about cars that dont have a heater (Indica Base models for example)....what about a home window a/c which does not have a heater.....the temperarture is controlled in these devices also. The way it is done is by controlling the amount of time the compressor runs (in case of cooling) and by controlling the amount of air that passes over the hot fins (in case of heating). "but I have never seen such a switch for heater counterpart!" Simply because heating is free in a car. There is no power hungry compressor to run...just the blower fan. when the AC compressor is cut in (engaged to the engine), extreem cold air from AC gets mixed with extreem hot air from heater as per the knob setting. As explained above this is incorrect. Cabin temperatue is maintained by controlling the running time of the compressor not by mixing hot and cold air. This air gets mixed with extreem hot air and the result is hotter than the ambient temp, which result in fast warming up of the cabin temp False. When compressor gets cut off...just the cabin air keeps recirculating. It does not get mixed with anything. As a result, the system cycles through cooling and heating alternately. It doesnt. The cabin temperature fluctuates too much around the desired level, making it either too hot or too cold most of the time. The way to get arounf this is by selecting the right combo for the temperature switch (sliding knob with red/blue markings in the baleno) and blower speed. In cars with climate control this is achieved by varying the blower speed. heating is not required, rather it is undesirable ....... Yes it is.....and heating does not happen. I hope this will clarify.
__________________ It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in argument. |
| | |
| | #6 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||
| BHPian | Quote:
Quote:
Alas... overheating doesn't happen in winters, though! I am bothered about heated air being used for temperature control below outside temperature, not otherwise. That is the reason why I wish there was a heater on-off switch available. Similarly, for getting temperatures above outside, we don't need AC (unless for dehumidifying). Quote:
I tend to support Varun's explanation about compressor on-off being controlled by a thermostat, which just maintains cooling coils at low enough temperature. But that thermostat doesn't directly monitor the cabin temperature (unlike automatic climate control, which uses additional temperature sensors inside and outside cabin) Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
| ||||||||||||||||
| | |
| | #7 (permalink) |
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: pune
Posts: 1,579
| Rather dumb question here: Why can't you keep the a/c setting on MAX cool? It will completely cut off heater. On other end of same switch, it will cut off a/c and keep only heater on. So, where is the problem?
__________________ Drive fast, but drive safe. |
| | |
| | #8 (permalink) | |
| BHPian Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Noida
Posts: 118
| Quote:
![]()
__________________ Getz CRDi 08'/ Safari Dicor 3.0L 06'/ Ikon Flair 05'/ Yamaha RXG 96' "We all have ability. The difference is how we use it." | |
| | |
| | #9 (permalink) |
| BHPian | If we were to use only MAX settings for both cold and hot then you guys mean you don't want/need the temperature control at all?? IMHO, it will make the cabin either a freezer or an oven, unless its peak summer or winter . Relatively, MAX COOL is rather okay. Actually thats what I am doing right now...I put it at MAX COOL position and manually keep pressing the AC on-off button as per the need. If I don't do that then it gets too cold, even at lowest blower speed! In this case here is what happens- compressor ON - it gets too cold, need to switch off the AC button (and once again later to restart it) compressor OFF - No problem, it warms up slowly But shouldn't temp. control free you from this trouble of having manual intervention every now and then? So instead of manually switching the AC button, one should be able to change the temp control slider to a higher temp (though still on the COOL side). But another problem that I noticed with this is that it becomes noticeably hot when compressor is off. So in this case- compressor ON - No problem, it doesn't blow too cool air compressor OFF - It gets uncomfortably hotter than desired In short, we are not able to get comfortable temp in both compressor on and off periods. If we try to set one, the other gets spoiled! I have started this thread because I think if we have ability to shut off the heater, or more precisely convert it to "normal" air when in off position, then this problem can be solved. We will have much better and smoother control over the cabin temperature while using AC. But then there won't be any motivation for people to go for climate control ![]() You can appreciate my point by trying this out: just turn the AC OFF and keep the temperature control in between MAX COOL and MIDDLE position, such that it is little closer to the MIDDLE (just to aggravate the problem). You should notice that the air blown is warm! (of course, here I am assuming that the system in your car uses similar mechanism as in mine) |
| | |
| | #10 (permalink) |
| BHPian Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: World
Posts: 75
| I remember reading somewhere that the manual HVAC systems (like in a Baleno) are rather simple mechanisms with no user accessible thermostat controls. With the AC switch turned on, the compressor is always on (it never turns off unless the temperature falls rather low, below a certain temperature preset on a thermostat). The only control accessible to the user (apart from the fan) is the cool/heat lever/knob which affords a desired mix of cold/hot air, to adjust the cabin temperature (rather like adjusting the temperature of water in a shower). If you turn the AC on/off using the switch frequently, you are trying to control the temperature in a manner it was probably not designed for. The benefit is perhaps a few percent fuel saving, at the cost of added aggravation to yourself, and also, perhaps, more cycling stress imposed on a compressor designed for continuous duty. The automatic climate control mechanism (like on a new Baleno) is, of course, more sophisticated. |
| | |
| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: pune
Posts: 1,579
| Quote:
So, I must be missing some point here, but your original question was how to cut off heater. This is possible with MAX cool setting, isn't it? This is what you'll achieve by closing heater vents/closing heater core (if I understand you correctly).
__________________ Drive fast, but drive safe. | |
| | |
| | #12 (permalink) | |
| BHPian | Meer, thats exactly how I understand it! With AC on, the "hidden" thermostat actually runs and stops the compressor after every 10-40 seconds (roughly). Its preset temperature might be just above freezing as mentioned by Varun. So, I hope the system should be robust enough to bear that. Manual switching by me is done after longer periods, minimum being a few minutes and that shouldn't be an issue (?) Moreover, the AC switch and all other air-flow controls in baleno are electronic type, which just need a soft push to operate like computer or ATM keys. So I think even those will not wear so easily. Blower control is a 4 step electric regulator knob (old type) whereas air intake and temperature "mixer" are mechanical. Quote:
). I remember some other people also complaining about too hot - too cold problem.As of now, I prefer to switch the AC button. It is very convenient and has a LED indicator in the switch itself. | |
| | |
| | #13 (permalink) | |
| BHPian | Quote:
![]() Let me put it this way- I am not satisfied with the temperature control while using the AC. Because there is considerable fluctuation of temperature as the compressor automatically passes through ON and OFF stages. I am thinking that it is because of heater always being in ON state. If we are able to stop the heater whenever required, then IMHO, the temperature control will be easier, more accurate and most importantly the amount of temperature fluctuation will be considerably reduced. Here are further details (sorry for repeating...) : Let us say you are using only heater, AC is switched OFF. When the "temperature" or "mixer" knob is at MAX-HOT position, you get highest temperature. As you keep pushing it towards the other side, more and more "normal" air will be mixed with it, thereby reducing the temperature. By "normal" I mean the air already inside the cabin or outside air depending on the circulation mode. When you reach the other end (MAX-COOL), you will get only normal air, and hence the ambient temperature. You can not reduce the temperature further. Now consider the case when you switch ON the AC. Instead of hot-normal air mixture, you will get hot-cold air mixture. When the knob is at MAX-COOL, you get the lowest temperature. When it is at MAX-HOT, you get the maximum temperature. Obviously somewhere in the middle, you would have observed no change in the temperature, where hot and cold air balance each other. This point need not be exactly at the middle because the difference between ambient temperatue and cold and hot air respectively may not be equal, though the volume of hot and cold air may be exactly equal. Therefore, the temperature control will be less accurate (less precision and granularity) as compared to earlier "heater only" case. Moreover, while AC in ON, compressor will be automatically turned ON and OFF. So, actually you will have hot-cold mixture when its ON and hot-normal mixture when its OFF. Due to this there will be considerable difference between the temperature during each period. The difference diminishes to minimum when the knob is at MAX-COOL position (or MAX-HOT for that matter). My argument is that if we turn the heater OFF, then you can have normal-cold and normal-normal mixtures during compressor ON and OFF periods respectively. As the knob moves from MAX-COOL to MAX-HOT, we actually get temperatue from minimum to ambient. It will be more easy (more granularity), precise control with much reduced temperature deviations. Overall a more desirable/comfortable "mixer" with "AC only" operation, as compared to the default hot-cold mixing which is rather crude (relatively) BTW, Meer had given a perfect analogy of shower mixer! I hate "just for the sake" kind of things...have similar opinion about normal (two taps) mixer versus single lever (rotary cartridge type) w.r.t. their ability to control water temperature and ease of operation. So I have actually used single lever mixers everywhere in my house ![]() | |
| | |
| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2006 Location: Chennai
Posts: 1,274
| Quote:
![]() ![]() The heating cycle of the cars work differently. They do NOT consume Engine power unlike AC.. The way to shut the heater is by the thermostat knob / button only.. We should try and keep points simple rather than elaborate on the same thing many times over!! No offense to anybody please!
__________________ When the going gets tough, the tough get going. Last edited by Rehaan : 13th July 2008 at 10:59. Reason: 4 smileys | |
| | |
| | #15 (permalink) | ||||
| BHPian Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bangalore
Posts: 344
| [quote] Quote:
[quote] Quote:
I am sorry but a shower mixture works in a different way. There is no thermostat in the mixture that controls the temp ot the water. The Hot and the cold water comes from two different sources and the mixture just blends the 2 to the desired requirement. While In the AC/Heater system the two never ever work together. The inbuilt system switches off either of them depending on the Cabin temp required. [quote] Quote:
[quote] Quote:
So long.... | ||||
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Fixing the noise from Santro Heater/Blower assembly | ashish_me2 | Technical Stuff | 3 | 28th August 2008 10:07 |
| P0135 o2 sensor heater malfnction | vivekiny2k | Technical Stuff | 4 | 13th June 2008 19:41 |
| Oh Shut Up! - Intake Growl | elf | Modifications & Accessories | 81 | 10th May 2007 00:07 |
| Does heater consume engine power? | DCEite | Technical Stuff | 21 | 4th January 2006 23:28 |
All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 00:00.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 250 251 252 253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 285 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 318 319 320 321 322 323 324 325 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 337 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 351 352 353 354 355






In order to make sure that AC system is working well the grille temperature should read +4 degrees +/- 1 degree. The ideal cabin Temp should be 22-27 degrees and the relative Humidity should be 55-70%.



