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Old 25th November 2009, 16:46   #106
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Originally Posted by humyum View Post
My friends was driving his baleno and he did a couple of wheel screetches,about 2 half clutch runs in 2nd and 3rd.
After that he stopped the car,started the car,put it in first gear,released the clutch and the vehicle did not move forward.The engine kept revvin with hardly any moment.He floored the accelerator and the car moved a little forward.At 6000 rpm it was moving at 2 kmph.
Checked the cluch cable and it was working and it had not broken.
Is this a completely burned clutch?
Or is it a broken oil seal seeping oil into the clutch and hence no friction?
His clutch and pressure plates are around 8000 km old
I dont think a couple of wheel spins can completely fry the clutch. I've been doing them countless times and so far my clutch has no major issues, though I could feel the jerking while disengaging it in first and second gears. Now the car has run 46000 Kms.
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Old 28th November 2009, 19:49   #107
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Guys, problems related to clutch might seem very confusing at times. For e.g. a judder while taking off can be attributed to loose or soft engine mountings (although this is not the case in many modern vehicles as they undergo a lot of testing and validation on things like clutch slip-start test, clutch stall test, clutch hill fade test etc etc which also take into account factors like vibration isolation and transmissibilty from mounts). The clutch pedal feel can be either too soft or too hard. The reason for the former can be air/leakage in the bundy tubes resulting in sponginess. The reason for a hard clutch can also be attributed to the quality of lube being used in the transmission which may attribute to hard shifting. Typically a thrust bearing is designed to travel a distance of somewhere around 8.5 mm (1.5 mm during clutch freeplay travel and 7 mm during contact of the thrust bearing with the fingers for disengagement, this is when you start feeling the increase in pedal effort). So, an increase or decrease in pedal effort can also indicate whether your throwout bearing has moved forward or back along the vehicle longitudinal axis (X axis). Moreover, is there any step by step procedure by which we may start diagnosing the clutch problems by isolating possible reasons for e.g. first checking the freeplay, then the clutch engagement/disengagement then the power delivery, check for any rattling noises/chatter and so on..
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Old 28th November 2009, 21:21   #108
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My i10 clutch became extremely hard at 13K mark and the gear shift became difficult. HMP Delhi reported it to be because of worn out clutch plate ( attributing it to clutch riding which I didn't buy as I had taken utmost care in my driving )
I have put up pics of the clutch plate @ (i10 kappa sportz - 1 year/16K kms ownership report)

Subject Experts --> Looking at the pics, can it be seen that the clutch plate has worn out?
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Old 28th November 2009, 21:54   #109
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Originally Posted by svaid View Post
My i10 clutch became extremely hard at 13K mark and the gear shift became difficult. HMP Delhi reported it to be because of worn out clutch plate ( attributing it to clutch riding which I didn't buy as I had taken utmost care in my driving )
I have put up pics of the clutch plate @ (i10 kappa sportz - 1 year/16K kms ownership report)

Subject Experts --> Looking at the pics, can it be seen that the clutch plate has worn out?
no i dont think the plates are worn out. however the pressure plates might have become hard, but still 13 k is too less if you say you drive properly.
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Old 28th November 2009, 22:07   #110
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Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
no i dont think the plates are worn out. however the pressure plates might have become hard, but still 13 k is too less if you say you drive properly.
Thanks mate - could you elaborate what would have been difference in physical appearance in case the clutch plates would have worn out?

And for that matter, the pressure plates haven't been changed - The reason I specifically put up the question in this thread is because I have again started feeling some hardness in the clutch around 4K kms after the last change.

Additional query was that if clutch plate was not the real culprit, why would the clutch become back to being soft after its replacement ( assuming lets say some role of pressure plate in the problem )
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Old 28th November 2009, 22:13   #111
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ok let me explain. the clutch gets hard when either the cable/ clutch release bearing or the pressure plates become hard.
when the clutch plate is worn out it doesnt account to clutch becoming hard to operate but the clutch starts slipping.

looking at the pics one can see even the scratches(made purposely) on the lining material have not evened out. not the lining material has become uneven. only one possibility which is remote is that the lining material becoming extreme hard due to overheating that too after prolonged hard revving while slipping the clutch. (women can do it easily )

a worn out clutch plate has the lining material diminished or it looks thin or uneven or spread out.
you earlier said you had a hard clutch problem. but i dont thing changing the clutch plates solve a hard clutch problem.

Last edited by amit_mechengg : 28th November 2009 at 22:15.
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Old 28th November 2009, 22:37   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
you earlier said you had a hard clutch problem. but i dont thing changing the clutch plates solve a hard clutch problem.
Thanks once again for your prompt feedback.
Just to make the things clear, I had a hard clutch problem and eventually one fine day, it became very difficult to even engage the gears ( they became very tight ). That is when the car was taken to workshop and the clutch plate replaced.
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Old 4th January 2010, 15:54   #113
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Hi friends,
Of late, i notice that downshifting from 3rd to 2nd even at reasonably low speeds like 40 kmph is hard. Earlier it used to be a lot smoother, similarly, downshifting from 2nd to 1st at around 15kmph is hard and i need to get it down to as low as 5 or 10 to be able to do the downshift. I know that while normally one wouldnt go from 3rd to 2nd at 40 kmph, sometimes the situation requires instant acceleration and i know that a car normally should be able to downshift smoothly in that speed considering the clutch is fully engaged. I have the feeling and have been told by a mech that it is the pressure plate and clutch plate that have given way? is that so?
Could you please throw some light on this? I had recently changed the slave cyclinder as it was leaking.
Thanks. Harsha
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Old 4th January 2010, 18:24   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harsha.cs1 View Post
Hi friends,
Of late, i notice that downshifting from 3rd to 2nd even at reasonably low speeds like 40 kmph is hard. Earlier it used to be a lot smoother, similarly, downshifting from 2nd to 1st at around 15kmph is hard and i need to get it down to as low as 5 or 10 to be able to do the downshift. I know that while normally one wouldnt go from 3rd to 2nd at 40 kmph, sometimes the situation requires instant acceleration and i know that a car normally should be able to downshift smoothly in that speed considering the clutch is fully engaged. I have the feeling and have been told by a mech that it is the pressure plate and clutch plate that have given way? is that so?
Could you please throw some light on this? I had recently changed the slave cyclinder as it was leaking.
Thanks. Harsha
How many KMS have you done ?

Maybe the repair has gone bad...
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Old 5th January 2010, 10:44   #115
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Originally Posted by mithun View Post
How many KMS have you done ?

Maybe the repair has gone bad...
car has done around 49k kms. I must have done around 1500 kms after the slave cylinder repair. I guess the cylinder is fine, because if the cylinder fails, the clutch goes all the way down without any resistance. that is not the case here. but when i used to drive with the problematic cylinder, i used to get a slight burnt smell, which i thought was probably owing to some wiring. Would bleeding the clutch help?
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Old 5th January 2010, 11:06   #116
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the pungent rubber sort burning smell comes when the clutch plate is slipping.
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Old 6th January 2010, 10:47   #117
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Originally Posted by amit_mechengg View Post
the pungent rubber sort burning smell comes when the clutch plate is slipping.
Ya, this was a very light rubber burning smell. used to come very rarely. at that time, due to faulty cylinder, all clutch oil was gone. But now, i never get the smell. A mech told that the clutch plate is weak for can do 10k more. I am wondering if driving with a weak clutch plate would take a toll on some other part. would it? can it be set? I am told that the clutch is self adjusting - means no scope for setting it etc.
can 'bleeding the clutch' etc solve the problem? because another mechanic said bleeding the clutch would set it right.
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Old 6th January 2010, 10:58   #118
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Probably a dumb question :

Does engine breaking increase the clutch wear ? Just wondering !
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Old 6th January 2010, 11:23   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lambuhere1 View Post
Probably a dumb question :

Does engine breaking increase the clutch wear ? Just wondering !
Nopes, don't think so! Engine braking or downshifting with rev matching done properly,wont fry clutches. Gurus might elaborate.
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Old 6th January 2010, 11:38   #120
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I use engine braking a lot on my Swift D. The engine is a peppy engine hence if only the brakes are used then I need to change brake pads at least once every 40 K kms. I have done 52K+ kms and still running on original clutch and brakes.
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