"Dude I bolted on 25 BHP" FAQ !!

[di1in]

Post deleted by the Team-BHP support : Do NOT SPAM the forum with useless one-liners that add no value to the thread.

We advise you to read our rules before proceeding any further.

[mpescatori]

OK, my own 2 cents here...

I drive (drove... she's been sitting in my garage for the best part of four years now...) a 1980 MGB GT, stock 1798cc engine, which is long bore, low compression, 94bhp SAE net which really means anything from 70+ to 80-bhp DIN.

I will omit discussing ECU-controlled piston-operated robots, they are about as exciting as a corpse; sure, they may provide performance, but they don't have personality.

My car? She's a lady... MOODY !!!

So, here goes:

1) Stage 1: replace stock (paper element) air filter with hi-flow foam filter, up to twice as much air flow as standard element and when it's grimy you just wash it and oil it; hi-flow exhaust manifold; if possible, replace diaphragm-type silencer(s) with "double-S" type silencers (if at all possible, replace central element with "boom-box, not any noisier but engine growls rather than barks) Replace vacuum advance distributor with centrifugal type.
OK, Now that we've improved air flow in & out, rejet carbs, then do a test run, you'll be surprised!

2) Stage 2: head off: skim and polish head, polish intake and exhaust ports, machine valve seats and fit the largest valves that'll fit; camshaft depends on destination of car (fast road / sprint / rally etc) fast road is best for ordinary traffic, others are too "uppity" and will be detrimental to overall enjoyment; balance (do NOT lighten!) flywheel...

3) Stage 3: burette combustion chambers and polish/skim in order to bring all chambers to same capacity in cu.mm.; weigh and balance all pistons, con rods and replace all crankshaft bearings with HD/performance type; replace oil pump with HD hi-flow pump (you don't want more pressure, you want more flow=>larger pump=>oil by the bucketloads!); air filter box should be at least 20 times cc capacity of a single cylinder; fine tune intake with "trumpets" (length varies with rpm, the higher the rpm, the longer the trumpets) from 1/2 to 1.5x throttle body diameter (i.e. on SU HS4, 1.5" throttle = 40mm, trumpets vary from 20mm to 60mm; I have 35mm); balance prop shaft on rwd cars; lube differential with thicker oil.

DON'T FORGET TO UPGRADE SUSPENSION AND BRAKES !!!

[drpullockaran]

Please do not be misled by people who claim horsepower increase from changing severly worn out plugs to Iridium plugs by more than 1% of the total horsepower.
Read the real story from the NGK website.

NGK Spark Plugs USA

[devarshi84]

but doesnt it help in India where the petrol quality is bad and sticky?

[mithun]

I bet you'd be interested eh?

Well, the good news is, I'm going to tell you how to gain 5 horsepower this weekend for $0-15 spent. Sound too good to be true? Well, read on!

1) Increase the H2O ratio in your coolant if it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water. Water cools much better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is a better performer.

Instead of half and half, try 40/60. DO NOT use pure water, As this may cause premature corrosion and that can be no fun at all to clean up. You may also try water wetter to further enhance this effect.

2) Index your spark plugs this is an age old trick that is good for about 1 extra pony. The idea here is to "aim" the open end of the spark plug terminal (the gap) towards the intake side of the head. In order to accomplish this, simply mark on the plug a small line to indicate where this gap is, and install the plug as normal.

Try to line up the line with the intake side as best as you can. It may require buying 2 sets of spark plugs in order to do this, but hopefully you'll be able to do this the first time. Be careful with aluminum heads not to over tighten, as that could lead to a costly repair.

3) Relocate IAT Sensor This is a very simple modification that will work on a great deal of fuel injected vehicles. The IAT sensor (Intake Air Temperature) tells the computer how hot or cold the incoming air is. The computer will then adjust the amount of fuel being injected, as well as make minor adjustments to timing based on that reading.

The problem is that in many vehicles, the IAT sensor is located in the intake manifold, near the cylinder head. Therefore the air that the IAT sensor reads is much hotter than the air, say, in the intake arm. The idea with this mod, is to relocate the sensor to the intake arm. Use JB Weld or similar to patch up the old port for the sensor.

This will cause the computer to believe that incoming air is slightly cooler, causing it to inject more fuel and advance the timing a tad.

4) Synthetic Oil This is guaranteed to pick up 1-2 horsepower, as multiple dynos over the years have proved this fact. Simply by switching to a true synthetic oil this weekend you can reduce the friction in your engine, improving efficiency, and therefore going faster.

5) Insulate Fuel Lines When your fuel lines travel through the engine bay they heat up. However, cooler fuel produces more power for more reasons than just cooling down the intake charge although that certainly helps things! So, to improve power output, simply purchase some refrigerator/air conditioning insulation and wrap the fuel lines with the insulation. While you're at it, you may wish to go ahead and do this to the intake arm as well for even more power.

Gain 5 Horsepower This Weekend, For Practically Nothing CArheARt….where you learn about automotive..

What the gurus here think about these advice especially 1, 2, 3 & 5 ?

Are these really worth or simply placebos ?