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Old 17th November 2009, 14:23   #226
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Do 195-60-14 rub? I thought only 205 or something would cause that. The forum consensus for OHC tyre upsize is 195-60-14. I think both the tyre experts here Iraghava and Kpzen experts recommend this so suprised to hear about your experience with the vtec.

For the windshield its wear and tyre, I guess improper wiping of the screen causes these swirlies.

Current wheels are 13 inch, so I will have to upgrade to 14 inch steel rims or alloys. The plan now is to do the windscreen for 7k, buy 4 Michelin XM+ tyres - anyone know what's the cost for this?, and buy r14 rims for the time being, maybe 6 months down the line I will get alloys.

Thanks for the Saifee tyres tip, most folks here recommend them so that's where I am going to get this down.

Last edited by raul : 17th November 2009 at 14:25.
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:29   #227
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Increasing the width will not reduce the chance of aquaplaning. Infact it will increase it on wet roads. To prevent aquaplaning, over-inflate the tyre by a couple of pounds.

I have 205s on my OHC since the past 6 years and have no issue of fouling with the wheel wells.
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:36   #228
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195/60R14, 205/50R15 are both fine.
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:41   #229
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Thanks for that Pranavt, I think 195-60/14 seems to be the preferred upsize.

But Tejas, with over inflating there will be less contact with the road so won't this increase the chance of aquaplaning? Most of the info about aquaplaning is pretty counterintuitive, for instance the video you posted yesterday. We need to get to the bottom of this because on the expressway it can be deadly.

Last edited by raul : 17th November 2009 at 15:44.
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:52   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raul View Post
Thanks for that Pranavt, I think 195-60/14 seems to be the preferred upsize.

But Tejas, with over inflating there will be less contact with the road so won't this increase the chance of aquaplaning? Most of the info about aquaplaning is pretty counterintuitive, for instance the video you posted yesterday. We need to get to the bottom of this because on the expressway it can be deadly.
I also had this misconception in my earlier days. When i was doing research while buying my tyres, i realized this fact.

Narrow tyres are better in water as they distribute the car's weight over a smaller surface area. Thus the force exerted on the ground will be greater at any given point on the contact patch of the tyre. A car with skinny tyres tends to slice through the water, whereas wide tyres will tend to slide along the surface.

You can look up the wiki article here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroplaning_(tires)

A very very good article about this is here:
Tire Tech Information - Hydroplaning: The Role Tires Play

Let me quote from there to make things easier:

"Hydroplaning: The Role Tires Play

Hydroplaning happens when one or more tires is lifted from the road by a wedge of water that gets trapped in front of and under a tire as the vehicle drives through water. Hydroplaning most frequently occurs during heavy rainstorms when water creates puddles on the highway or expressway. In addition to the accompanying splash and scaring the heck out of the driver, hydroplaning typically causes the steering wheel to jerk and the vehicle to abruptly pull towards the puddle.

The speed at which a tire hydroplanes is a function of water depth, vehicle speed, vehicle weight, tire width, tread depth and tread design. It depends on how much water has to be removed, how much weight is pressing down on the tires and how efficient the tread design is at evacuating water. While deeper water, higher speeds, lighter vehicles, wider tires, less tread depth and less efficient tread designs will cause tires to hydroplane at lower speeds; all tires will be forced to hydroplane at some speed.

As a rule, tread design affects hydroplaning resistance at high speeds and in deep water. Tread compound affects wet traction at lower speeds or in shallow water.

Directional tread designs (sometimes called Unidirectional tread designs) are frequently used on tires intended to better resist hydroplaning. Their multiple tread grooves are aligned in a repeating "V" shape to increase the tire’s ability to channel water from between the tire’s footprint and the road. Somewhat like the vanes of a water pump continually pushing water in one direction through the engine, the grooves of a directional tire are designed to push water in one direction through the tire (forward on an angle to the sides). Directional tread designs are especially helpful in increasing hydroplaning resistance when relatively wide Plus Two, Plus Three or Plus Four tire and wheel applications result in fitting a much wider tire to a vehicle than its Original Equipment size."
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:55   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK396 View Post
Raul - You can also get good used alloy wheels for approx 6K. You can also get new steel wheels, which should be approx 2k.

Would suggest 185/60/14 tyres since 195 tyres tend to sometimes rub the body when turning. Had this experience on my OHC vtec and am riding on 185 tyres now. Saifee tyres at S'cruz is good and gives genuine stuff (near Podar school). Also replace all 4 tyres at one shot.

Re the windhield, insurance will only cover the same if there has been an accident. Normal wear and tear is not covered. You can check out Windshield experts who can give you details. Cost me 7K when I replaced them a yr back.

PM me if you want any more details.
Well i dont think the 195's should be a problem coz i am also using 205/45/16 on my vtec for the past 2 years+. The tyre touching has something to do with the offset of your rims.

Saifee is good i agree.

we just replaced a windshield on an ikon for INR 800 only when a branch of a tree fell on it. Total cash less insurance taken care of by them.
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Old 17th November 2009, 15:58   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK396 View Post
Raul - You can also get good used alloy wheels for approx 6K. You can also get new steel wheels, which should be approx 2k.

Would suggest 185/60/14 tyres since 195 tyres tend to sometimes rub the body when turning. Had this experience on my OHC vtec and am riding on 185 tyres now. Saifee tyres at S'cruz is good and gives genuine stuff (near Podar school). Also replace all 4 tyres at one shot.

Re the windhield, insurance will only cover the same if there has been an accident. Normal wear and tear is not covered. You can check out Windshield experts who can give you details. Cost me 7K when I replaced them a yr back.

PM me if you want any more details.
i've been using 205/50/r15 on my ohc vtec for the past 2 years and present odometer reading is 90,000 kms. there has been no rubbing or scrapping till now. i assume 195/60/r14 and 205/50/r15 sizes are having almost the same overall diameter. but i have got two bent wheels i must add.

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Old 17th November 2009, 16:46   #233
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Thanks for the links Tejas, its beginning to make more sense now. But seriously the 2 encounters I had with hydroplaning on Sunday were scary as hell, just a split second more and I would have crashed somewhere. I think there need to be more awareness about this on the forum, or maybe its just me who was taking it so casually.

The roads were not flooded and I was not going particularly fast, I think the first instance a Pajero overtook me and dumped a wave on water on the middle lane and the second one I got a puddle on the extreme right lane on a bend, which was a near crash experience.
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Old 17th November 2009, 17:10   #234
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Had Goodyear eagle F1 195/60 tyres on the orig alloy wheels.

XM1's should be approx 4k a tyre. I also liked the Yokos A drive. There is a thread on tyres which you can check.
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Old 17th November 2009, 20:07   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK396 View Post
Had Goodyear eagle F1 195/60 tyres on the orig alloy wheels.

XM1's should be approx 4k a tyre. I also liked the Yokos A drive. There is a thread on tyres which you can check.
I had the Goodyear F1 Eagle 205s earlier. The worst tyres i have ever driven on. Not meant for indian heat. The compound became very hard after 12000kms.
Then had dunlop sp9000. Great tyres. But twice one of them had manufacturing defects and the company replaced them. Got fed up and returned all. However, the ride was great! They were Z rated.
Currently on Hangkang (or something). Run approx 25000kms on them and still as good as new.
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Old 17th November 2009, 20:20   #236
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Goodyear Eagle F1s are absolutely pathetic in the wet. I've done wheelspins while shifting to third gear, when the car just had an FFE and nothing else.
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Old 18th November 2009, 12:17   #237
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Get Yokohama S drives.
I'm running 205/50R15 and they are great.
205/50R15 costs 4700 per tyre,
195/50R15 costs 4550 per tyre.

These prices are about 6 months old.
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Old 18th November 2009, 23:21   #238
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I just spoke to the folks at Saifee, planning to go down on saturday. I thought 195/60/r14 Michelin xm+ was 4000, he quoted 4500, isn't that a bit high. He also told me even though he will procure 14 inch Honda rims for 400 each its not recommended to fit 195/60/r14 on 14 inch rims, something about the tyres not fitting on the rim. Never heard that before, anyone have any idea about this?
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Old 19th November 2009, 10:46   #239
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Default CRACK on windshield

My wiper stopped working and i found that the damage to be the socket that connects the internal rods to the motor. there is a plastic socket and that broke. so I got the rods changed for about 1.4K
The problem didnt stop there... after I got back I saw a light crack on my windscreen (the left side) originating from the bottom the crack is about 5 - 6 inches long Phew!!! I thought to my self "Now what"

Guys any ideas other than killing the workshop guys? coz that is not an option lol

I'l try to post a pic for ref:
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Old 24th November 2009, 12:40   #240
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I have to change the front windscreen some time soon, the small crack 'seems' to be growing. Any ideas of what the pricing is gonna be like?
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