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Old 17th August 2007, 01:11   #16
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Default Looks like your O2 sensor is faulty.

At idle you should have a 11:1 OR 12:1 ratio when the car is warm and if not a ratio of 11:1 is the norm. The other thing you mentioned is that the O2 sensor shows a reading of less than .6 to .7volt and if thats the case you are running rich because I believe that higher the readings more is the oxygen level and leaner the fuel mixture. It could also be that if you have the 4 lead O2 sensor the heater coil of your sensor has gone dead. If the 2 lead version is used in your car then a rich mixture is the resultant and possibly your flame front from the spark plug is being quenched partially resulting in hestitation from revving.

Oxygen Sensor Information


Bye and wear your seat belts.

Last edited by drpullockaran : 17th August 2007 at 01:13.
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Old 17th August 2007, 02:03   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
At idle you should have a 11:1 OR 12:1 ratio when the car is warm
On which car, on which fuel, on which planet?
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Old 17th August 2007, 07:19   #18
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All thanks so much for your responses!

PJ, TBA done - group 60 on VAG shows ADP Ok.

Chetan, I have monitored Cyl 1-4 for retard; nothing at normal driving. Anyways in my car upto 6-8% is acceptable - signs of aggressive tuning. But I have no (read 0) ECU pull downs. Most times the phenomenon is when engine is warm. Issue been there and noticed after I was doing some inspection after I changed battery about 6 months back.

Rocam, Plugs news 2k kms - no deposits or residues. VAG shows no misfires. How do I check coil or wires?

V1p3r, DrPull, The .45v was @ start - the values fluctuate between .2v and .9v on running conditions I think.

Thanks,
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Old 17th August 2007, 07:25   #19
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**** i dont know wy i didnt notic this before but i jus noticed this....i tried to wheel spin today and it jus didnt....i mean the rpms climb...but its jus didnt wheel spin.it jus stayed there and accelerated slowly.could it possible be caue i have 245 mm rubber ? i think thats one of the reasons....oh by the way im talking about a 94 eclipse.


rev
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Old 17th August 2007, 10:38   #20
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I would think that's a clutch issue Revtech.
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Old 17th August 2007, 11:39   #21
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yea thats what i feel too....but could it also possible be the tyre...i mean if i downsize would it make a diff...
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Old 17th August 2007, 12:10   #22
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Revtech, Looks like you have a clutch issue for sure – try bleeding if not check plate, else flywheel…
Thanks,

Last edited by Octavia2 : 17th August 2007 at 12:16. Reason: Some HTML tages got copied...
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Old 17th August 2007, 12:23   #23
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ok what exactly do u mean by bleeding ?
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Old 17th August 2007, 12:40   #24
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Bleed clutch cylinders fluid and refill... master, slave procedure varies from car2car... sometimes there is significant amount of gook that is present, especially if you have not done it before... hope this clarifies.

Thanks,
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Old 17th August 2007, 13:33   #25
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yeah kind of...thanx....i guess
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Old 17th August 2007, 15:38   #26
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octy2 : is ur car not responsive enough normally? like as if the engine was still cold? many car i have driven have poor response when they are cold. they take a minute before they lurch forward.

if everything else seems normal i'd blame the clutch.... worn out plates. you said you've done 26k kms..... not likely but still mayb you should check that up too.
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Old 17th August 2007, 19:33   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
At idle you should have a 11:1 OR 12:1 ratio when the car is warm and if not a ratio of 11:1 is the norm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
The other thing you mentioned is that the O2 sensor shows a reading of less than .6 to .7volt and if thats the case you are running rich because I believe that higher the readings more is the oxygen level and leaner the fuel mixture. It could also be that if you have the 4 lead O2 sensor the heater coil of your sensor has gone dead. If the 2 lead version is used in your car then a rich mixture is the resultant and possibly your flame front from the spark plug is being quenched partially resulting in hestitation from revving.
This is not the issue , he is reporting perfect lambda readings @ idle ...
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Old 17th August 2007, 19:39   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtech View Post
**** i dont know wy i didnt notic this before but i jus noticed this....i tried to wheel spin today and it jus didnt....i mean the rpms climb...but its jus didnt wheel spin.it jus stayed there and accelerated slowly.could it possible be caue i have 245 mm rubber ? i think thats one of the reasons....oh by the way im talking about a 94 eclipse.
rev
dude, u got a clutch issue...
r u doing wheelspins with stock OE clutch .. ?
maybe u should upgrade to a harder performance clutch disc..
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Old 17th August 2007, 19:44   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipsyde View Post
octy2 : is ur car not responsive enough normally? like as if the engine was still cold? many car i have driven have poor response when they are cold. they take a minute before they lurch forward.
thats exactly opposite of what i have experienced ..
colder engines are more eager to jump forward...cos theirs ecu's are making them are rev higher
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Old 17th August 2007, 19:54   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Octavia2 View Post
Chetan, I have monitored Cyl 1-4 for retard; nothing at normal driving.
so u r saying u dont see any ignition retard during ur "wheelspin attempts"
does ur readout show -ve for BTDC and +ve for ATDC or simply retard=x, advance=y.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Octavia2 View Post
Anyways in my car upto 6-8% is acceptable - signs of aggressive tuning.
6-8% ..I didnt get the "%" part ? u dont get readout in degrees ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Octavia2 View Post
But I have no (read 0) ECU pull downs. Most times the phenomenon is when engine is warm. Issue been there and noticed after I was doing some inspection after I changed battery about 6 months back.
do u have knock sensor readout ? is ur knock sensor causing ur ECU to cut the power ?
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