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Old 21st September 2007, 19:09   #31 (permalink)
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Combination of both.

On very tight situation or getting behind the wheels for the first time on a different model car, hand brakes helps better. If I need to stop for longer duration (say more than 20 secs), no choice, only handbrakes
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Old 21st September 2007, 19:48   #32 (permalink)
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Yup, me too.....i use both depending on the difficulty and the distance between me and the guy behind me! I use the handbrake when its a difficult slope and bumper to bumper traffic and 'paddling' otherwise...

Dunno which is better. As long as you 'paddle' without half clutching too much i guess its ok.....

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Old 21st September 2007, 20:40   #33 (permalink)
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Using hand brakes are the best while climbing a slope..But if ur car dont have one?, then paddling will be the best. This is what i do while stopping infront of a traffic signal on slope in my jeep,
I used to put the main brakes first with my right leg, then while moving it i'll press the clutch,put the first gear and will release the brakes with half clutch.It needs a little skill to move it without the jeep goin back..
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Old 21st September 2007, 20:53   #34 (permalink)
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Half clutching will send your clutch to it's maker very fast.
So please be prudent in using any technique of this kind.
Though there are times when there is no other option.
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Old 22nd September 2007, 10:26   #35 (permalink)
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Padlding is harmful to clutch, brakes and the engine in that order. All modern cars are equipped with good handbrakes. Handbrakes should be used to negotiate uphill driving conditions..
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Old 24th September 2007, 10:07   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutdcrap View Post
Here is what I do: Apply the handbrake, then put the car in gear and rev a bit. When I feel a slight push indicating that the car would not slide backwards, I release the handbrake and carry on.
I will explore this option. Never tried it. One question here : Will the clutch be released FULLY when you engage the gear or wat ?

By the way, Can anyone tell me the approx rpm that the SWIFT P has to be rev to get the necessary momemtum ?
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Old 24th September 2007, 12:00   #37 (permalink)
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I use both the techniques depending upon the road slope and the driving conditions. If I am stopping for more than a minute i switch off and use the hand brake otherwise its just the usual foot brake and then pick up from there. I resort to half clutch only if the road is slushy or if there is snow as I feel the half clutch lets you inch up without too much wheel slippage.
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Old 24th September 2007, 12:23   #38 (permalink)
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Combination of both.

I deepends on the time.. for how long u need to wait.. If I need to stop for longer duration (say more than 15-20 secs), no choice, only handbrakes. If not paddling idea looks better and works easy for me..
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Old 24th September 2007, 12:53   #39 (permalink)
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If I have to stop for long hand brake/ switch off engine slot in 1st gear. to move forward first go to neutral start engine, press brake release hand brake slot into 1 paddle fast. Never used half clutch. If for short period, then stop, to move paddle no half clutch.
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Old 24th September 2007, 16:12   #40 (permalink)
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I started learning driving in hilly region. One of the first thing one learns to master is controlling clutch, brakes & gas pedals. In time, stop & go in slopes becomes as easy as stop & go in plain. One of the reason I don't use handbrakes is because, I usually had to turn cars in tight confinement in slopes. Eventually it becomes a habit.

The technique is to keep the brakes depressed, press the gas gently with your heel and gently realease the chutch till you feel the drive bite (rpm will fall slightly). Now release brakes & clutch and more gas. Takes some practice, thats all. Initially it requires focus. In time its easy as changing gears while driving. Using handbrakes while turning cars is too cumbersome. The havier the car, the more skill required.

While going uphill, using handbrakes depends on how long you have to wait. Oh! yes, most old cars hardly has working handbrakes so it means learning how to control all three pedals in one smooth flow.
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Old 24th September 2007, 18:54   #41 (permalink)
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[quote=lambuhere1;573246]I will explore this option. Never tried it. One question here : Will the clutch be released FULLY when you engage the gear or wat ?

No no. If you leave the clutch when engaged in gear with hand brakes applied, the car will stall.

Clutch would be released partially in this case. As soon as you feel the slight push, disengage the brake and release your clutch to carry on driving normally.

This is better IMO since the car will start pulling from a standstill and not when it is sliding backwards, in which case the engine will have to revv more to pull it.
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Old 25th September 2007, 13:38   #42 (permalink)
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Sorry for being off-topic. But this is intriguing. Cutdcrap: What are the two items from Samsung? Never knew that Samsung were into automobiles as well.

I for one always associated Bordeaux with some fine French wine.

[quote=cutdcrap;573928]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lambuhere1 View Post
I will explore this option. Never tried it. One question here : Will the clutch be released FULLY when you engage the gear or wat ?

No no. If you leave the clutch when engaged in gear with hand brakes applied, the car will stall.

Clutch would be released partially in this case. As soon as you feel the slight push, disengage the brake and release your clutch to carry on driving normally.

This is better IMO since the car will start pulling from a standstill and not when it is sliding backwards, in which case the engine will have to revv more to pull it.
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Old 25th September 2007, 14:08   #43 (permalink)
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Can someone please explain the handbrake technique properly.

Under what situation should it be used?
Wont the tyres get damaged if we try to accelerate with the handbrake on ?
Please excuse me if you find these questions silly :-)
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Old 25th September 2007, 16:21   #44 (permalink)
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Hill start
  1. Handbrake should be on.
  2. Depress clutch pedal
  3. Pull up handbrake and depress ratchet button to release, but keep pulled up.
  4. Give acceleration (how much depends on slope; experience only is the teacher)
  5. Bring clutch pedal up to clutch 'biting point'
  6. You will see the front of the car rise slightly.
  7. at the same time: Release brake fully; release clutch pedal fully but gently; adjust gas as necessary.

--- Car moves off nicely

If the engine stalls at point 6, you should have given more gas: try again.

Learn to 'ride the clutch', so that you know where that biting point is and you can control the car in the event of handbrake failure. Understand that using it to keep the car stationery on a hill, although you should be able to do so, will much reduce the life of your clutch. Use it for very short pauses at junctions, maybe.

I don't know what you guys men by 'paddling' --- that's what I do when I have to get out of the car in a few inches of water

Do you mean heal&toe --- operating brake pedal with heal, and accelerator with toe? That is an advanced technique to do exactly the same as above, but witout using handbrake. Or shifting the foot from the brake to the accelerator damned quick? Can work well on lesser gradients.
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Old 25th September 2007, 20:29   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqwall View Post
Wont the tyres get damaged if we try to accelerate with the handbrake on ?
Tyres dont wear out with the handbrake, its your rear brakes drum/disc which have to fight against the torque of the engine. The tyres dont get affected at all.
I never use handbrake unless I have to wait something like 10 minutes..
I just release the clutch completely and keep minimum throttle, for stopping I push the entire clutch down and keep foot on brake.
Half clutch screws up your clutch badly...
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