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Old 20th February 2010, 11:34   #46
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@mooza, so the Bilsteins (B6?) are working!
I'm also tempted by Josepeters shift to Bilsteins.
Wallet problems are stopping me :(

-- Torqy
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Old 20th February 2010, 12:52   #47
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Hi Torqy,
Good to see you on this particular thread again after these couple of years!

Yes, the Bilstein shocks are working for my leaf sprung Scorpio pretty well so far. I am looking forward to my next trip to Madikeri to check out the difference, compared to the previous drive to Madikeri done on stock shocks.

I myself had put the upgrade off by a couple of months to gather enough moolah !

But the result has been worth it.
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Old 20th February 2010, 13:22   #48
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Lancer 2000(dec), done only 68k km though: Still the stock suspension but need to replace it sooner than later.

Swift 2006(dec), done 42k km. Stock suspension and not too bad(only a tad worse than a new one).
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Old 27th July 2013, 23:27   #49
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Default Re: How to drive on bad roads? Fast or Slow?

Well, If you include large humps on the road, then I'd say there is particular way to reduce the shake when passing over it. Most drivers go over a hump in second gear. Some just depress the clutch and ride over it. The trick is to balance it, use the clutch till you clear half the hump (front wheels have touched the highest point on the hump), then immediately engage second gear. You'd achieve minimum shake !
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Old 28th July 2013, 12:14   #50
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Default Re: How to drive on bad roads? Fast or Slow?

If there are a lot of small undulation (high frequency) then driving faster will smoothen the ride as the suspension will not get time to bottom out and you will be flying from crest to crest. If the undulation are longer (low frequency) then driving faster will be unnerving - as if you are in rough sea.

As the frequency of undulations is dependent on your wheel base there will always be some roads where the longer wheel base vehicles will zip through while short wheel base vehicles like jeeps will struggle and buses and trucks zoom through. On other surfaces it may be just the opposite.

High frequency undulations are usually found on extensively potholed roads, while low frequency undulations on roads where the surface has settles differentially but not cracked.

Then there are some roads where you have to search for the bitumen surface and the ruts made by trucks are quite deep. Here you have no option but to go slowly from pothole to pothole, unless you have a narrow vehicle like Omni or Gypsy, in which case you zip along on the patches between two ruts.

Wheels with bigger outer diameter fare better on small potholes, hence the vehicle can go fast. On small diameter wheel (as in M800/Alto) the wheels can literally get jammed in a large pothole, where a 16/17" wheel will just glide over.

So vehicles with smaller wheels and shorter wheel base have to reduce speed on some roads while larger vehicles zoom through.
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Old 30th July 2013, 01:52   #51
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Default Re: How to drive on bad roads? Fast or Slow?

Softer springing, softer damping, taller tyres, longer wheelbase are all good. It does sound as if India could do with a couple of cars CitroŽn designed for France in the 1940s and 1950s, both of which became world-famous for their amazing strength and abilities over poor roads. They are the DS from 1955 and 2cv from 1948.

Washboard surfaces, after massive potholes, are the most detrimental to a vehicle and very difficult to deal with for any suspension. The early 2cv used coil springs with friction dampers as well as 'batteurs' mounted rigidly at the wheel end of the suspension arm. They were a form of tuned-mass damping, filled with oil with a mass mounted on a spring which worked out of phase with the wheel's motion to ensure beautiful damping on such high-frequency ribbed surfaces. I have never driven a conventionally-sprung car which deals so amazingly well with poor roads.

Maybe some of the more 'hands-on' sorts would find it quite easy to mimic the CitroŽn tuned damping and with a little experimentation come to a very satisfying result.

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