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Old 22nd November 2007, 21:40   #31
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here is something interesting i found:
Quote:
Front,
Open the bonnet,
Loosen shock absorber nut (one in the middle of the strut top)
loosen wheel nuts,
Jack the front of the car up, use axle stands to support car
remove wheels,
use large screwdriver or similar to push brake mounting clip to strut tube off
use 17mm (from memory) spanners to undo both strut tube to front knuckle bolts (2 off).
use 12mm (from memory) socket to undo strut top mounts from body (3 off)
pull strut out of car.
use spring compressors to take tension of springs and remove strut tops (hopefully you have followed the second item above. If not a rattle gun may be needed to loosen the nut
once strut top is off remove spring. Refitting is reverse of removal with note to.
lowered spring may not need compressors to refit, body weight may be enough to get the strut top nut on.
regrease roller top prior to refiting, cleaning everything before it goes back together is also a good idea. Wheel alighnment techs hate dirty cars.
Bolt evertyhing back together, check tightness, use a torque wrench if you have it, though tight should do, broken is too tight.
While its all apart it may be worth fitting camber pins to the front. these replace the upper tube to knuckle bolt. This will need a propper wheel alignment however.
Rear

loosen wheel nuts.
jack car and use axle stands to support car
remove wheels
undo shock absorber to axle knuckle bolt 14mm (from memory)and remove
either use jack under shock absorber or apply a twisting motion with your hands while forcing it up nto remove from knuckle.
once removed use spring compressors to reduce spring height.
once compressed remove from car.
refit is reversal of above.
Note: take this chance to clean things, lowered spring may not need compressors to fit but should not hang loose.
use a jack under the rear knuckle to raise onto shock absorber tube. Bottom of shock absorber tube has a notch for the clamp bolt so align this.

From memory though, just bolting it all together shouldnt require a wheel alignment after as nothing critical has been touched. Though it is always a good idea to have it done and get the tech to cast his eyes over the job if you are inexperienced.
With standard shock absorbers and lowered and uprated springs there may be handling mismatches so be wary. It may look better but handle not much differently or even worse.
With practice you can do it in about 20 minutes per end.
redlinegti.com :: View topic - D.I.Y lowering
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Old 21st March 2008, 02:19   #32
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Hi All,

Need some help .. thought i'd bump this thread instead of starting a new one ..

I've been wanting to lower my OHC for a long time now and need lowering coil springs for the same .. can somebody suggest a suitable (a) brand (e.g. Eibach, H&B, HotBits etc.), (b) pricing and (c) where/who I can source them from.

Note: I am NOT looking for coilovers kit .

I found this on the HotBits website but the dealer in India doesn't want to sell them here. He's probably only interested in making a margin off the coilover which at ~67k is wayy off my budget (for this car atleast)

The first option Honda City 1.3 1997- seems to be what may work for me .. can anyone confirm??
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Old 21st March 2008, 09:36   #33
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Hi,

I thought you were selling the car as per the sms you sent.

Viper
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Old 21st March 2008, 09:59   #34
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U were out to sell the car right? Or changed your mind??
Team-BHP Classifieds - Type 1 Honda City 1.5 Exi-S - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds
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Old 21st March 2008, 11:49   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manveet View Post

I've been wanting to lower my OHC for a long time now and need lowering coil springs for the same .. can somebody suggest a suitable (a) brand (e.g. Eibach, H&B, HotBits etc.), (b) pricing and (c) where/who I can source them from.

Eibach springs are imported and marketed by Methods automotive -Bangalore.

Check Methods Car Parts and Car Accessories Online Shop and Distributors in Bangalore India, K&N Performance Filters, Sparco Motorsport Accessories or 080-41233979 for details about Eibach springs and prokits
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Old 21st March 2008, 12:00   #36
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Quote:
I thought you were selling the car as per the sms you sent.
Yeah ,what happened ??


(20202020)
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Old 21st March 2008, 12:40   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper View Post
Hi,

I thought you were selling the car as per the sms you sent.

Viper
Quote:
Originally Posted by faithless_1984 View Post
Yeah ,what happened ??
Yes, that option is still being considered will full seriousness but I'm in no desperate hurry to sell. Offers are most welcome. Meanwhile am also on the lookout for a 15,000 kms (max) run Skoda Tpi or RS. Was planning to buy a new Cedia but have dropped that as of now as didn't see it as a quantum jump from the OHC. Meanwhile, I will be going in for a muted end-can within this week, as my wifey refuses to travel to Chandigarh in my car due to the exhaust drone .. :(

But lets not go OT here ..

Back to topic .. I am willing to lower my car within a budget of 10k .. look forward to suggestions.
Also, any inputs on post #32?

p.s.
@Viper - I sent you an sms regarding this about a month back .. no response?

Last edited by manveet : 21st March 2008 at 12:42.
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Old 21st March 2008, 22:55   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram_hyundai View Post
karthik get in touch with jerry for coni shocks-learn about it and then decide.somehow in the above post the pedders coil base is lower than stock.the distane between coils are almost same maybe a tad bigger on stock,but the stiffness settings would count for your handling needs.if you cut the coils -stock ones then your stiffness remains same thats not good.
ref to:http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/iipcache/128088.jpg

Ram i absolutely agree with you.
Guys if you look closely the spring height is almost about the same as the OE ones,just appers to be a little stiffer with the way it has been coiled, its the spring base which is lower(the shocker).
So would that mean the stiffness/softness of the spring remains almost the same hence the driver doesn't feel much of a ride quality difference but the ride is lowered which means a lower CG (center of gravity), thus better cornering ability.
I might be wrong here so please correct me, but thats what made sense to me.
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