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Old 4th December 2012, 14:21   #1051
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Default Re: Tata Indica - List Of Problems

Hi Deetee!
To reduce engine noise, I have tried the following & succeeded:
1. Always fill petrol from a Shell bunk. I use the normal Shell petrol. Their petrol is much cleaner & you will immediately notice reduction in the engine noise & reduction in harshness. Mileage will also improve by 5 to 10%.
2. You can use Pennzoil or Castrol GTX or any good non synthetic oil with 1 bottle of Bardahl. This will also reduce the engine noise.
3. Or you can use Castrol Magnatec without Bardahl.
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Old 6th December 2012, 12:50   #1052
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Got this done on my car with 70k on the odo. Bolt was about 5% blocked, mostly not enough to decrease the air flow. Cleaning it didnt make that much of a difference.


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Originally Posted by CRDIsamir View Post
The whoosh feeling is due to the Turbo Boost which the engine gets after 2000 RPM. Now to compensate for the boost pressure the FIP gives more fuel. This is controlled by the Boost Pressure device on the FIP. There is a air pipe which connects the inlet manifold and the FIP. The banjo bolt on the inlet manifold gets clogged with carbon which restricts the air flow to the boost pressure device on the FIP due to which the FIP fails to deliver more fuel when needed.

The Banjo Bolt is just below the Intercooler as shown on the picture. Get it cleaned and the car should be back to normal.


Attachment 990557
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Old 11th December 2012, 12:04   #1053
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Default Re: Tata Indica - List Of Problems

Quoting from the Fiat Punto thread:

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Originally Posted by AutoIndian View Post
...............................................
So you can post your queries/experiences in the Indica problems thread below. I have a 2004 Indica DLX, run just over 1.21 lac kms & still good to go till 1.5 lac kms.
In my Indica these are list of stuff which has failed/replaced et al. The Vehicle has run for around 84K and please note most of these were replaced under extended warranty,

a) Brake pads -- Around 6 times. Had to pay for everytime , did not get covered under warranty.

b) Brake Disks -- Two times. Once at 15K and the other at 65K. 15K replaced was under Warranty (after some jumping and shouting) and for 65K had to pay from pockets though come to think about it , i am not sure if TASS was scamming or if the Disks were really due for replacement.

c) Fuel Pump: Was always leaving Diesel (and most of the time was not able to maintain pressure or something). Went to TVS Lucas three times for servicing (after making a mess of the engine bay) and finally fourth time was replaced during Extended warranty period.

d) Power Steering motor/pump/something: This thing kept failing twice. Once during Warranty and once During extended warranty. First time it was replaced warranty and the next time some issue came it cost some 15K (most of it was labor).

e) Clutch : Replaced twice though for the first time (at 20K) i suspect that it was TASS ripping the customer. Second was at 65K when i did not believe TASS words that Clutch was failing during the previous service and it finally failed during a short trip and had to be towed . Due to heavy traffic and general anemic nature of the Non Turbo Indica , Clutch riding cannot be helped and hence keeps failing.

f) Alternator: This was always leaving something or other. After 2-3 services it was replaced in Warranty.

g) Some stuff in Front Suspension. TASS quoted a bomb to fix (mostly in labor), finally did it with a local mechanic for 1/10 of the cost.

h) Compressor failed once and was repaired/replaced under warranty. Next time some issue cropped up with AC (and TASS quoted some 18K to fix) , fixed it with a local mechanic for 3K.

i) Some many other minor stuff like bearings, seals, fluid holder ...etc and things which i don't remember but every service after extended warranty got over was around 15K till i dumped TASS (Concorde Chennai) and went the Local mechanic route.

And yes , you have the normal issue like even a pedestrian overtaking your car , Tractor like sound , Tractor running over a Screeching squirrel sound (which TASS was never able to fix right from Day 1) during Cold days , lots of sounds from lot of places et al and now recently a knocking sound front suspension when breaking at slow speeds after driving in water in the IT highway a few days back during a freak rain . Does not bother me anymore but bothers everyone who i give a ride in my Car.

I made a mistake by buying a NA Indica when Turbo was available , would have caused less load on the engine/clutch due to the extra power. Lesson learnt which is to always buy the higher HP version if available.
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Old 11th December 2012, 14:30   #1054
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Default Re: Tata Indica - List Of Problems

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Originally Posted by Aceman82 View Post
In my Indica these are list of stuff which has failed/replaced et al. The Vehicle has run for around 84K and please note most of these were replaced under extended warranty,
Thanks for sharing your plight with your Indica. I can now understand why you want to get rid of it. Its a long list of issues & my sympathies are with you.

Quote:
a) Brake pads -- Around 6 times. Had to pay for everytime , did not get covered under warranty.
Brake pad is a consumable, so won't be covered under any warranty. But 6 times in 84K kms, that is too much. So you have repalced your brake pads at an aveage running of 14K kms, that is not even the half life of the brake pads. In normal driving conditions brake pads can be used for at least 30K kms. I have replaced mine only thrice till date, giving me an average life of 40K kms per set.

Quote:
b) Brake Disks -- Two times. Once at 15K and the other at 65K. 15K replaced was under Warranty (after some jumping and shouting) and for 65K had to pay from pockets though come to think about it , i am not sure if TASS was scamming or if the Disks were really due for replacement.
Brake discs normally don't wear so fast. However if the brake calipers are not set properly & there is uneven wear or scoring marks on the brake disc, then they might need replacement. I am still on factory fitted brake discs. I wanted to change it at the 120K kms service, but my garage owner said these can be used for another 10-15K kms.

Quote:
c) Fuel Pump: Was always leaving Diesel (and most of the time was not able to maintain pressure or something). Went to TVS Lucas three times for servicing (after making a mess of the engine bay) and finally fourth time was replaced during Extended warranty period.
That's very sad. Normally the Lucas TVS guys are very competent in repairing the FIPs. I would say, you are plain unlucky over here. I haven't done any kind of repair on my FIP yet (touchwood). Was planning to get the FIP overhauled during last service, but have postponed it for now.

Quote:
d) Power Steering motor/pump/something: This thing kept failing twice. Once during Warranty and once During extended warranty. First time it was replaced warranty and the next time some issue came it cost some 15K (most of it was labor).
That's pretty unfortunate. Did you ever drive your car with lower that normal PS fluid in the container. This could have resulted in faster wearing of the rack-pinion assly. The PS oil is also prone to leakages through the oil seals.

Quote:
e) Clutch : Replaced twice though for the first time (at 20K) i suspect that it was TASS ripping the customer. Second was at 65K when i did not believe TASS words that Clutch was failing during the previous service and it finally failed during a short trip and had to be towed . Due to heavy traffic and general anemic nature of the Non Turbo Indica , Clutch riding cannot be helped and hence keeps failing.
First clutch failure 20K, can't believe that. Are you sure it was a genuine failure & the TASS didn't rip you? I replaced my factory fitted clutch @ 1,10,000 kms & that too not because there was any issue, but just as preventive maintenance. Obviously I travel in off peak hours with sparse traffic & this might have helped prolong the clutch life.

Quote:
f) Alternator: This was always leaving something or other. After 2-3 services it was replaced in Warranty.
Indica alternators always had issues right from the start. The regulator would fail, overcharging the battery & damaging electricals. I have overhauled my alternator twice till date initially @ 45K kms & then at the recent 120K km service.

Quote:
g) Some stuff in Front Suspension. TASS quoted a bomb to fix (mostly in labor), finally did it with a local mechanic for 1/10 of the cost.
True, local garages do a very good job compared to the TASCs & that too at a fractional of the TASC's cost.

Quote:
h) Compressor failed once and was repaired/replaced under warranty. Next time some issue cropped up with AC (and TASS quoted some 18K to fix) , fixed it with a local mechanic for 3K.
What was the reason for failure? Was it due to low refrigerant or was there any oil leakage from the compressor?

Quote:
i) Some many other minor stuff like bearings, seals, fluid holder ...etc and things which i don't remember but every service after extended warranty got over was around 15K till i dumped TASS (Concorde Chennai) and went the Local mechanic route.
Yes minor stuff like bearings, seals, etc need to be replaced periodically. If this is not done it may lead to major catastrophes

Quote:
And yes , you have the normal issue like even a pedestrian overtaking your car , Tractor like sound , Tractor running over a Screeching squirrel sound (which TASS was never able to fix right from Day 1) during Cold days , lots of sounds from lot of places et al and now recently a knocking sound front suspension when breaking at slow speeds after driving in water in the IT highway a few days back during a freak rain . Does not bother me anymore but bothers everyone who i give a ride in my Car.
Actually these are minor issues & a competent mechanic can definitely handle it. Off late even I was facing the screeching squirrel sound. This comes from the alternator belt, which elongates over time due to usage & needs to be tightened. Once tightened this noise vanishes. Modern day common rail engines have an automatic tightening (adjustment) mechanism, due to which they don't face this issue.

Quote:
I made a mistake by buying a NA Indica when Turbo was available , would have caused less load on the engine/clutch due to the extra power. Lesson learnt which is to always buy the higher HP version if available.
I completely agree with you. The NA Indica is highly under powered & this becomes very evident in choc-a-bloc traffic. The AC sucks the engine power big time & the car simply refuses to move with the AC ON. However over time you become expert to manage such situations & learn to toggle with the AC switch.

After reading your nightmare with your Indica, I am now convinced that there is no point in continuiuing with her. You should bid farewell to her & go for a replacement. All the best for your new car hunting
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Old 11th December 2012, 17:53   #1055
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Originally Posted by AutoIndian View Post

Brake pad is a consumable, so won't be covered under any warranty. But 6 times in 84K kms, that is too much. So you have repalced your brake pads at an aveage running of 14K kms, that is not even the half life of the brake pads. In normal driving conditions brake pads can be used for at least 30K kms. I have replaced mine only thrice till date, giving me an average life of 40K kms per set.
Not sure , probably due my driving style but every 15K Kms , i start hearing some knocking sound which signals the end of brake pads. Then again i keep travelling at the most peak hour possible where IT highway becomes IT slowway with constant clutch/brake usage and hence things could fail if the quality was not upto the mark.

Quote:
Brake discs normally don't wear so fast. However if the brake calipers are not set properly & there is uneven wear or scoring marks on the brake disc, then they might need replacement. I am still on factory fitted brake discs. I wanted to change it at the 120K kms service, but my garage owner said these can be used for another 10-15K kms.
For the first time , i am pretty sure that only the Brake pads needed replacement but probably TASS was trying to skim by insisting that Disks were near failure and it is a consumable and i needed to pay for it. I then started jumping and shouting in the showroom in peak time with a lot of prospective customers (those days Concorde Guindy's showroom and service center were in the same place) and they ended up replacing the Disks under warranty. The pads , i had to pay.

Second time , the car just got towed due to a Clutch Failure and hence did not want to take a chance with a break failure.

Quote:

That's very sad. Normally the Lucas TVS guys are very competent in repairing the FIPs. I would say, you are plain unlucky over here. I haven't done any kind of repair on my FIP yet (touchwood). Was planning to get the FIP overhauled during last service, but have postponed it for now.
Probably i was unlucky with Fuel Pump. After the new pump was replaced (probably just a refurbished one) there was no issues.

Quote:
That's pretty unfortunate. Did you ever drive your car with lower that normal PS fluid in the container. This could have resulted in faster wearing of the rack-pinion assly. The PS oil is also prone to leakages through the oil seals.
For the first time i did not know since it was replaced under Warranty.

The Second time , yes there was some leak (could be due to the seal) but with the mess my Engine bay was in due to Fuel leaks and stuff , i had no idea there was PS leak. Everything like to leak from my Indica.

Quote:
First clutch failure 20K, can't believe that. Are you sure it was a genuine failure & the TASS didn't rip you? I replaced my factory fitted clutch @ 1,10,000 kms & that too not because there was any issue, but just as preventive maintenance. Obviously I travel in off peak hours with sparse traffic & this might have helped prolong the clutch life.
There was no Clutch failure at 20K , it was the service adviser saying that "Saar Clutch will fail in another 2k-3k kms and hence please replace it as preventive maintenance " and i fell for it.

At 65K there was a Clutch failure , actually the Service adviser was saying that Clutch was going to fail but this i though that i am smart (and the car did not show the typical symptoms of Clutch failure from reading Team-Bhp threads but with the Power which NA Indica has, it is difficult predict anyways) and did not agree for replacement and the Clutch failed near Gingee fort drive and the Car was towed.

Quote:

What was the reason for failure? Was it due to low refrigerant or was there any oil leakage from the compressor?
For the first time no idea. Anyways it was replaced under warranty and hence i did not bother too much.

For the second time the Service Adviser gave two options which is to change the compressor or he can 'fix' for 18K and can give a 6 months warranty on the Job. Anyways a Local Mechanic took it to a AC mechanic or someone like that and the compressor was fixed with 3K and filled the Cooling gas. Did not go into the details of what had failed exactly. I was too bored with hearing all the intricate details of what keeps failing by now.

Quote:
After reading your nightmare with your Indica, I am now convinced that there is no point in continuiuing with her. You should bid farewell to her & go for a replacement. All the best for your new car hunting
Well the Car which i would like to buy is the XUV500 but it is beyond my budget at the current instant. Need to see if i can nurse the Indica for a year/maybe two (or) take the bitter bill and buy another hatchback. In two minds on what to do actually.

End of the Day my grouse with Tata is the low quality of parts they seem to be using/making. I hope that they have improved since i am considering Strome Lx as a possible buy (A definite buy if they give a 4x4 version in Lx).
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Old 11th December 2012, 20:15   #1056
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Default Re: Tata Indica - List Of Problems

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Originally Posted by Aceman82 View Post
Well the Car which i would like to buy is the XUV500 but it is beyond my budget at the current instant. Need to see if i can nurse the Indica for a year/maybe two (or) take the bitter bill and buy another hatchback. In two minds on what to do actually.
Do you really need such a big car like XUV? If you are looking at a highway machine to carry 5-6 people comfortably with loads of luggage, only then think about the XUV. The Ertiga/Duster is also a good alternative. A hatchback can serve all your purposes, if the max number of people travel with you are four (yourself included) with limited luggage. I managed to do a 12 day, 3,500 kms round trip criss-crossing 6 states, with 4 adults & a kid with loads of luggage in my humble Indica.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aceman82 View Post
End of the Day my grouse with Tata is the low quality of parts they seem to be using/making. I hope that they have improved since i am considering Strome Lx as a possible buy (A definite buy if they give a 4x4 version in Lx).
Tata does make good quality parts & most importantly price them reasonably well. Running & maintaining an Indica is not so heavy on the pocket otherwise you won't see so many Indicabs on the road (of course cases like yours are exceptions). The only grouse is with their service centres. People there are trying to milk the gullible customers if you are not particular about knowing the service details. Hence get hold of a better private garage. You provide all the spares to the garage & only buy his labor. I am doing so for the past several years & I am very happy.
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Old 13th December 2012, 15:54   #1057
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Default Re: Tata Indica - List Of Problems

Hello Friends,

Today while driving to office I faced a weird problem. In my 32 kms drive, after I had covered the 30kms I saw the battery indicator on the dash flickering. I though it would be momentary & would go off, which it did. But again it resurfaced. In the remaining 2kms drive till I reached office, I observed that whenever I raced the car, the battery light would come on & the moment I lifted my foot off the accelerator pedal it would go off. Now when this indicator comes ON, it means that the battery is not getting charged. After reaching the office I killed the engine & then started it again. It started in first crank without any issues. Also I haven't any kind of starting problem, which would indicate a weak battery. Just during the 120K service I myself checked the electrolyte level in each cell & it was fine. Also I got the alternator serviced at 120K service. That time the charging voltage was also checked & it was 14V (even at 4000 rpm). Could it be that the sensor from the alternator, which gives the signal to the battery indicator might have become loose or when the alternator was fitted back the sensor position might have been disturbed? But why the problem is appearing only now, whereas I got the alternator serviced 12 days back (on 1st Dec 2012). Any clues?
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Old 13th December 2012, 17:13   #1058
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Calling all the Audiophiles esp green horn,

I want to change my indica v2 audio setup changing frm dash + rear speakers to dash + door ones mainly dur to the clattering rear parcel tray

Any one has any idea of how to lay a wire from the door to the console , i mean is there a designated space for it?
I hate seeing wires dangling around.
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Old 14th December 2012, 02:25   #1059
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Yesterday got my Indica's 70k service done. Have a problem after that - am going back to the mechanic today morning, but would like to hear your views on it.
The check engine light is On sometimes and not always. When this happens, the engine runs very rough and makes a clatter. Its almost like a tractor (sound). Any thoughts on what could be the problem?
What was done: engine oil change, fuel filter, oil filter, silencer decarb, coolant change.

I somehow suspect some sensor like o2 sensor that may have got dislodged during the decarbonization... what do you all think?
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Old 14th December 2012, 08:16   #1060
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Originally Posted by deep_bang View Post
The check engine light is On sometimes and not always. When this happens, the engine runs very rough and makes a clatter. Its almost like a tractor (sound). Any thoughts on what could be the problem?
What was done: engine oil change, fuel filter, oil filter, silencer decarb, coolant change.

I somehow suspect some sensor like o2 sensor that may have got dislodged during the decarbonization... what do you all think?
You are probably right. Since the engine check light is not continuously ON, it has to be a loose sensor. However no harm in checking the fluid levels. Check that the engine oil is at the max mark on the oil dip stick. Also the coolant in the translucent container should be the max level.

As per the car manual, 'Check Engine' lamp continue to glow even after start there could be some fault detected by the ECU control system.
If low engine oil pressure indicator 'ON' when engine is running even though engine oil level is within maximum/minimum marking, the reason could be that the oil pump &/or the Pressure transducer is faulty, it might not generate enough oil pressure in the crank case.

I am guessing this might have happened due to decarbonization. What exactly did they do in decarbonization?
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Old 14th December 2012, 11:33   #1061
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In the remaining 2kms drive till I reached office, I observed that whenever I raced the car, the battery light would come on & the moment I lifted my foot off the accelerator pedal it would go off. Now when this indicator comes ON, it means that the battery is not getting charged.

Could it be that the sensor from the alternator, which gives the signal to the battery indicator might have become loose or when the alternator was fitted back the sensor position might have been disturbed? But why the problem is appearing only now, whereas I got the alternator serviced 12 days back (on 1st Dec 2012). Any clues?
Just now I am back from the Lucas TVS garage. It was a case of "Khoda pahaad, nikla chooha" . One small wire, which carries the signal that alternator is running, was touching the body of the vacuum pump on the alternator (grounding), hence lighting up the battery indicator on the dash. Whenever I would race, due to inertia it was getting pulled towards the pump body, touching it & lighting the indicator & whenever I would brake, it moved away from the body, thus putting off the indicator. Now he has tucked the wire inside away from the pump body, which has fixed the problem. The mechanic also checked for oil leakages & there was none.

Thank god, it was not a big issue & & was fixed in 2 minutes. Sometimes such minor symptoms look very scary. However it is better to be cautious than sorry.
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Old 14th December 2012, 18:06   #1062
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You are probably right. Since the engine check light is not continuously ON, it has to be a loose sensor. However no harm in checking the fluid levels. Check that the engine oil is at the max mark on the oil dip stick. Also the coolant in the translucent container should be the max level.

As per the car manual, 'Check Engine' lamp continue to glow even after start there could be some fault detected by the ECU control system.
If low engine oil pressure indicator 'ON' when engine is running even though engine oil level is within maximum/minimum marking, the reason could be that the oil pump &/or the Pressure transducer is faulty, it might not generate enough oil pressure in the crank case.

I am guessing this might have happened due to decarbonization. What exactly did they do in decarbonization?
Thanks AutoIndian. So, in the morning, i was going to take the car to the mechanic but the symptom did not appear. So, one possibility (i am a little optimistic) is that there might have been water yesterday after the service which might be causing some problems, which dried up overnight. I have driven about 8 kms only - need to drive more to really confirm anything.
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Old 16th December 2012, 09:53   #1063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deep_bang

Thanks AutoIndian. So, in the morning, i was going to take the car to the mechanic but the symptom did not appear. So, one possibility (i am a little optimistic) is that there might have been water yesterday after the service which might be causing some problems, which dried up overnight. I have driven about 8 kms only - need to drive more to really confirm anything.
Ok more details: the problem did not happen again. So I have left it for now thinking there must have been some water around the sensors giving wrong data on day 1 which must have dried up.

Meanwhile there is another problem And this problem existed even before the service for the last 2 months or so. The engine rpm fluctuates a little while at idle very similar to old buses - if you can imagine. This is not random but very rhythmic. So you can actually listen to the sound of the engine and you can hear the rhythmic idling. Any thoughts on what may be the problem?
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Old 16th December 2012, 15:10   #1064
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Originally Posted by deep_bang View Post
Meanwhile there is another problem And this problem existed even before the service for the last 2 months or so. The engine rpm fluctuates a little while at idle very similar to old buses - if you can imagine. This is not random but very rhythmic. So you can actually listen to the sound of the engine and you can hear the rhythmic idling. Any thoughts on what may be the problem?
Get you FICD (Fast Idling Control Device) checked. It is just above the FIP (Fuel Injection Pump). The function of the FICD is to increase the engine idling rpm, when you switch on the AC, to cater to the additional load of the AC

I had faced similar problem almost 6 years back. The cause of this problem was a failed spring in the FICD (Fast Idling Control Device). Got is replaced under warranty from Lucas TVS.
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Old 18th December 2012, 08:54   #1065
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Couple of days ago my 103 k run indigo refused to crank up in the middle of the highway.... no other problem or any warning..

Yesterday the car was brought back by push starting it and the electrician pronounced the battery EOL. Replaced the battery with amaron black maintenance free. Damages: Rs 3800
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