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Old 1st January 2008, 20:26   #16
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Originally Posted by BUSA View Post
FR - Why not use a voltage stabilizer then? I have seen high end audio equipped cars use it.
What is that sir I have never heard of it ? Any more info on it.
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Old 1st January 2008, 20:50   #17
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
How much does a cap cost? I don't think i'll need a high end one. I just want to wire it parallel to the battery in my Bullet so that i could start it even if the battery drains or conks off. Old Bulls had a cap setup.
You can use electrolytic capacitor 10,000uF/63V should be @ 120/-. Wire it with negative of cap directly connected to battery negative and cap's positive connected to +ve of the ignition coil.

I have been using this setup for past 3yrs and works perfectly fine.

I can run my bike without batt, little hard to start without battery, the kick should be swift, but no issues after it starts.

Just a quick note mine is 4-wire alternator.
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Old 1st January 2008, 22:08   #18
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Originally Posted by DirtyDan View Post
A bigger battery would give you more versatility, e.g. ignition, lights and audio, and would give you more value for your money. Then, when your alternator is due for replacement, you can upgrade that, too. This is the way I would go.
If you draw more juice than what you put in, then a bigger battery (howsoever big) will ultimately drain out.

In a car the battery size is determined almost totally by what is needed for starting. Once the engine is running you rely on the alternator giving enough juice to keep things going.

In the days of dynamos you put in big batteries hoping to cope with the nett drain at night and low engine speeds. Alternators, on the other hand have far higher outputs and that too at lower rpm!
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Old 1st January 2008, 23:32   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutra View Post
You can use electrolytic capacitor 10,000uF/63V should be @ 120/-. Wire it with negative of cap directly connected to battery negative and cap's positive connected to +ve of the ignition coil.

I have been using this setup for past 3yrs and works perfectly fine.

I can run my bike without batt, little hard to start without battery, the kick should be swift, but no issues after it starts.

Just a quick note mine is 4-wire alternator.
Thanks Sutra.

I have a 4 wire alternator on my bike too. Do you mean that i should connect the +ve terminal of the cap to the +ve terminal of the ignition (bottle) coil?

Can't i connect it parallel to the battery?

Edit: Sorry for hijacking your thread Rocam. Sutra could you PM me to answer my questions, I don't want to lead Rocam's thread off the track.

Last edited by Sankar : 1st January 2008 at 23:35.
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Old 2nd January 2008, 06:52   #20
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The speedworks guys down in chennai have a " voltage stabilizer " i think 7500 ish?

not sure what it is man , but i would check
Stage 5 :
Install a Volt stabiliser to ensure maximum current to ECU, Ignition and Audio System.




Improved audio quality]Increase torque and response and power[]Stabilized idling and imrpoved engine kick over , blah blah
]Price: Rs.6,823/-

Last edited by cyneverdie : 2nd January 2008 at 06:54.
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Old 2nd January 2008, 07:38   #21
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Originally Posted by cyneverdie View Post
not sure what it is man , but i would check
Stage 5 :
Install a Volt stabiliser to ensure maximum current to ECU, Ignition and Audio System.

Improved audio quality]Increase torque and response and power[]Stabilized idling and imrpoved engine kick over , blah blah
]Price: Rs.6,823/-
Have heard about that product but never tried, some people are selling it as an "performance upgrade" on stock engines.lol
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Old 2nd January 2008, 11:33   #22
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Originally Posted by Ford Rocam View Post
Have heard about that product but never tried, some people are selling it as an "performance upgrade" on stock engines.lol
One such tuner called Hyperp********** has been using it. He thinks this is a small version of a turbo.
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Old 2nd January 2008, 12:00   #23
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I think it is nothing just crap. I think we can pass on this.
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Old 2nd January 2008, 12:39   #24
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Hi guys, I have installed this product (Pivot Raizin voltage stabilizer) in my car.

Got it for 5.5 K, although PJ Speed Shop sells a similar product, but with much bigger capacitors, for 8 K. Post installation, there was no perceptible increase in performance, but this product really cleaned up my audio, the difference was like night & day. This product also solved an RPM drop I was experiencing when with the lights & AC on, the cooling fan kicked in.

To those who are interested in trying out this product, beware, apparently spurious copies are rampant in the market. The Pivot web-site mentions a couple of ways to distinguish the original from the imposters.

Last edited by im_srini : 2nd January 2008 at 12:53.
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Old 2nd January 2008, 12:41   #25
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Your car RPM will change according to load. For example when you switch on the AC, the rpm goes up a notch.
This switch is instant change, so when you turn on AC the rpm changes.
I could not understand your problem correctly.
1. Do you want to avoid voltage drop?
2. Do you want to avoid rpm dip?
3. or both.

Normally when you start a car and immediately switch on electronics(Lights etc., except AC), you will see that voltage will drop at the battery terminals.
Then after a few seconds there is a "click" sound and your rpm goes a notch higher, and voltage comes up.
This happens when you are powering anything which requires current.

The best solution for you would be to connect your fan to a circuit similar to the one used for the AC.
So whenever your fan powers up, this ups the rpm.
This switch costs around 200rs. In my car this went bust and the rpm would not rise even with AC on. I forgot the name of the switch.

To test this theory, connect your car battery terminals to 130/110W headlamps, switch on blower at full just after starting car and watch voltage. You will see voltage dropping to 12.2-12.3 V for some time, and as ECU(or equivalent) senses this and ups the rpm.

This is what is happening in your case. You want to avoid this time delay. So connect the fan(or any high current device) to a AC like switch, which immediately ups the rpm upon switch on.
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Old 3rd January 2008, 23:20   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Your car RPM will change according to load. For example when you switch on the AC, the rpm goes up a notch. .
Tanveer,
Cause the Engine has to bear the load of A.C compressor also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
I could not understand your problem correctly.
1. Do you want to avoid voltage drop?
2. Do you want to avoid rpm dip?
3. or both.

.
I am not talking about A.C now.
The voltage drops because that Radiator Fan is drawing huge current & when voltage drops it effects the car electronics thats why rpm drops. Once that is solved everything will be solved even rpm dip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
You want to avoid this time delay. So connect the fan(or any high current device) to a AC like switch, which immediately ups the rpm upon switch on.
.
There's no time delay funda here anyhow i am working on for a solution for this problem & will post up results soon.

Thanks for your reply guys.
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Old 8th February 2008, 03:51   #27
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I have datalogged a session so that you guys will have an idea what i am talking about. The first line in first graph is DC voltage, see how it dips.


logging only DC Voltage, Not good :(



Planning first to overhaul entire electrical system for loose connections poor grounding etc since battery is in hood planning to use battery terminals connectors which I.C.E people use in their install.
also planning for capacitor based Voltage stabilizer for car applications if anybody has any clue of its availability pls let me know.
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Old 8th February 2008, 09:57   #28
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To understand what you need Jitu, you first need to understand what a capacitor is used for.

A capacitor in an audio system is never ever placed in the engine compartment to boost the battery's deliver of current.
A capacitor is placed in parallel to the load and at a distance that is as short as possbile.

The capacitor does not substitute or help the battery in any way. It merely reduces the TRANSIENT TIME required in current delivery.
Unlike your requirement, audio applications require sudden peaks and drops in current and the requirements can be a few milliseconds in length.

The power wire from the battery to the amplifier is typically 5 metres long.

The capacitor merely functions as a quick current reservoir (Not a voltage reservoir) to provide current for the extra short time (a few milli seconds) that the battery and 5m wire take to provide the required juice.

I've tried to keep it simple. But also, simply put, a 1F 15V capacitor wired almost in parallel with your battery will do nothing at all. Technically speaking, your battery is also a capacitor. Many many more farads in comparison. Adding 1F of capacitance will not stabilize the voltage at all.
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Old 8th February 2008, 10:24   #29
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Thanks Sam for detail explanation on Capacitor's, but what i wanted to say is that to use a voltage stabilizer which has inbuild capacitor's (not those big one's used in I.C.E) with built in noise suppressor which we can use here.
My only aim is to get a constant dc supply with no ripples & major voltage drop during load, this is essential for the kind of electronics i am/will be running.
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Old 8th February 2008, 10:48   #30
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If you need a stable voltage for few devices you can get a DC-DC converter which will frist increase the voltage to say 20 volts and then convert it to again 12 volts. So that you will get clean 12 volts even if there is dip in the main setup. Also what all devices do you plan to run at a stable voltage.
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