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Old 8th February 2008, 13:27   #31
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Originally Posted by Ford Rocam View Post
Thanks Sam for detail explanation on Capacitor's, but what i wanted to say is that to use a voltage stabilizer which has inbuild capacitor's (not those big one's used in I.C.E) with built in noise suppressor which we can use here.
My only aim is to get a constant dc supply with no ripples & major voltage drop during load, this is essential for the kind of electronics i am/will be running.
hello
jeetu bhai all u need is a volt stablizer which is connected to the battery on the positive and the negative pole to stablize the volt when ur fan and other elect system pulls current from the battery it will hold the power coming from the altne.
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Old 8th February 2008, 14:02   #32
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Jitu - If one of the dealers of the Volt stabilizers is willing, why not do a test mount & do another datalogging session?? If it works for your purpose keep it otherwise don't keep it.
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Old 8th February 2008, 18:47   #33
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JItu, use my voltage stabilizer and see if it works...if not then we'll find another solution.
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:35   #34
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JItu, use my voltage stabilizer and see if it works...if not then we'll find another solution.
nice to see helpful solutions ! curious to know specifics- on how it went?
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Old 17th March 2010, 15:20   #35
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Default Need Voltage Stability.

Hi All,

I need a reliable voltage stabilizer for basic voltage stability in my car.
The fuses keep busting . Especially the power window fuses.

Can anyone recommend anything i can do to stabilize this. Just need to supply every electrical appliace with just the desired amount of electricity. I have a feeling that its a common problem in a Tata Sierra. Anything I can do to improve the issue.

My car doesnt have any ICE yet, but will soon have. So i also want that to function well.

Thanks
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Old 3rd May 2014, 18:31   #36
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Default Battery Upgrade or Capacitor?

Car: Hyundai Fluidic Verna CRDI A/T

Battery: Stock

Alternator: Stock

Head Unit: Stock

HoC: Rockford Fosgate 4 channel

Damping: Ballistic (all doors + boot)

Y-Cables: Local/Chinese

RCA: 3 pairs of Focal

Amp 1: JBL GT X646 (4 channel) placed in the trunk


Type 800-Watt 4-Channel Power Amplifier
Series GTX
Class AB Yes
Crossover type (12dB/oct., 20Hz 320Hz;rear) LP/HP/flat
Crossover type (12dB/oct., 20Hz320Hz;front) LP/HP/flat
Output power (RMS, <=1% THD + N; 2 ohms) 4 x 100W
Output power (RMS, <=1% THD + N; 4 ohms) 4 x 65W
Signal-to-noise (@ 1W) 85dBA
Back-lit JBL logo
Bass boost (+6dB @ 50Hz) Variable
Dimensions (L x W x H) 305mm x 235mm x 54mm (12 inch x 9-1/4 inch x 2-1/8 inch)
Peak Power 800W
Frequency Response 32Hz - 320Hz
RMS Power 400W


Front Components: Hertz DSK 165.3

Rear Coaxials: Hertz DCX 165.3


Amp 2: JBL GTO 501-EZ (Monobock) placed in the trunk

General Specifications
Series Grand Touring
Type Mono/Subwoofer
Audio Specifications
4-Ohm Power Output 350W RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms, 14.14V DC, <1.0% THD
Peak Power 770W
Frequency Response 10Hz-280Hz
Maximum Current Draw 45A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio >80dB
2-Ohm Power Output 500W RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms, 14.4V DC, <1.0% THD
Number of Channels/Type 1 Channel
Dimensions
Depth 213mm
Height 66mm
Width 246mm
Weight 2.9kg


Sub: JBL GT5 2402-br placed in the trunk

Highlights:
ported enclosure with two GT5 12" polypropylene woofers
3/4" medium-density fiberboard construction covered with carpet
Slipstream slot port
2-ohm total impedance
recommended power: 200-550 watts RMS total (1,600 watts peak power)
frequency response: 40-200 Hz
sensitivity: 95 dB
35-3/16"W x 15-7/16"H x 14-3/8"D1 x 11-5/16"D2
warranty: 1 year

Amplifier cables: 2 X Focal 8AWG Amp power kits

Problems:

- Battery drains out within 10-15 mins if the music is being played at high volumes and the engine is off

- Headlights and cabin lights dimming with the heavy bass drop

Solutions

- Do I need a capacitor to deal with the dimming lights?

- Do I need to replace my stock battery with a new battery?

- Do I need an alternator upgrade with a new battery?

- Do I need to upgrade my battery and use the stock battery in the boot to power the ICE

Gurus kindly advice

Mods (Navin & DerAlte): need your help
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Old 5th May 2014, 13:57   #37
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Default Re: Battery Upgrade or Capacitor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
... Problems:

- Battery drains out within 10-15 mins if the music is being played at high volumes and the engine is off

- Headlights and cabin lights dimming with the heavy bass drop ...
If want to listen to music at a high volume with your car stationery, don't do it with engine off. Keep the engine on - idling is enough.

How old is the battery?

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
... - Do I need a capacitor to deal with the dimming lights? ...
No.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
... - Do I need to replace my stock battery with a new battery? ...
If your car starts normally otherwise, no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
... - Do I need an alternator upgrade with a new battery? ...
No.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
... - Do I need to upgrade my battery and use the stock battery in the boot to power the ICE ...
No.

Most likely the battery terminal, and / or the connection to the amp is loose / oxidized / corroded. Please have that cleaned and put back with a coat of white petroleum jelly (Vaseline).
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Old 7th May 2014, 14:19   #38
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Default Re: Battery Upgrade or Capacitor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post

How old is the battery?
1 year and 8 months old

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Most likely the battery terminal, and / or the connection to the amp is loose / oxidized / corroded. Please have that cleaned and put back with a coat of white petroleum jelly (Vaseline).
Brother got it checked and the connection to the amp and from the battery is fine but the problem remains and I was a little hesitant while putting vaseline. Where exactly is it supposed to be applied in the wiring kit?
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Old 7th May 2014, 14:28   #39
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Default Re: Battery Upgrade or Capacitor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh0110 View Post
1 year and 8 months old
... the connection to the amp and from the battery is fine but the problem remains and I was a little hesitant while putting vaseline. Where exactly is it supposed to be applied in the wiring kit?
Not the wiring kit. It is applied on the battery terminal and where the power cable to the amp connects at the battery. Otherwise, ions deposit 'salt' on the terminal, ultimately increasing the resistance at the terminal - which causes effective voltage to dip if the current drawn is significant.

15 mins is too short a time (playing music loud) for the battery to be reaching a state that the car cannot be cranked. With your equipment complement, this point is expected to be after 45-60 minutes with a fit battery. Please get the battery checked at the company shop (or A.S.S. center).

Ignore the light dimming if the engine is on. The lamps are very voltage sensitive, but dimming on low voltage doesn't affect them.
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