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Old 31st January 2008, 11:46   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemithomas View Post
Because i remember you said the rpm problem existed even after change in throttle body!!
There are two problems with RPM meter.

1. Idling RPM goes down to 400 and stays there all the while and there is no pickup in 1st and 2nd gears.

This problem did not go till we change cluster meter, Throttle body (replaced twice) and Fuel pump. Confusing...Here is the sequence

i. Changed throttle body
Problem persisted.
ii. Changed throttle body, cluster meter and Fuel pump
Problem solved.

2. RPM shoots up when clutch engaged. (the current problem)
After removing the air from the clutch, problem seems to be not seen at least in last two days.

However, I am still fingers crossed.

-BSR
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Old 31st January 2008, 11:50   #32
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Hi Sameer,
Thanks for the reply. I will check and let you know by tomorrow.

-BSR
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Old 7th July 2008, 12:47   #33
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Question Palio 1.6 GTX

i am facing a similar problem in my car - so thought of using this thread.

i am facing the following problems (normal running temperature after 15 mins drive + idle):

1. the rpm needle sticks to 1100 RPM when the car is idling when radiator fan kicks in / without radiator fan kicking in (normally it sticks to 800-850) and then drops to 800-850 on its own.

2. the rpm needle drops to 600 RPM when idling and sometimes goes below 600 RPM and then comes back to 800-850 on its own - the car feels as if its going to stall - once the battery light came on - i have faced this problem a long time back but it came back yesterday.

i havent faced any problem with acceleration - it is still pulling well. But why is this RPM irregularity?

Last edited by planet_rocker : 7th July 2008 at 12:51.
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Old 7th July 2008, 16:02   #34
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i guess Gemithomas faced a similar issue like mine - googled and found here:

High Idle after Stop Go Traffic - Page 2 - The FIAT Forum

@ Gemithomas - any update from your side?
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Old 7th July 2008, 20:05   #35
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Guys,
Have any of you got your car hooked up to a diagnostic computer? It should pinpoint any issues with sensors, stepper motor, etc.

I had to call 5 dealers until, I found one with a computer( TATA service center). I stood next to the technician, and had him do each diagnostic test. He found my ignition coil and fan resistor to be defective. It would be really hard to figure that out without the computer. Most Fiat dealers don't have a computer and they will typically try to convince you that it is not really necessary. Or the other excuse is "saab, compooter kharab hai." This is just nonsense, so find a dealer that has one.

The other thing that you should do is get a can of carb/throttle body spray can. Take of the air intake hose next to the TB. Turn on engine, and spray the TB until it is shiny clean. Use at least half a bottle.

Regards,

Gaurav
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Old 8th July 2008, 04:26   #36
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The rpm shooting issue always boils down to the actuator/throttle body.
The 1.6 has an oil return pipe which comes before the throttle body which keeps clogging the sensor with some kind of a black sticky tar. I would like you to try these below before you actually think of replacing the throttle body or the sensors.


1. Remove and clean the throttle body especialy the sensor/actuator/stepper with a good solvent or cleaner. I think paint thinner would be a good idea after you jet and clean it first with diesel. Before you fix the throttle body back to the manifold, plug in the wires for the sensor and turn the ignition key on. You will see that the sensor kind of moves back and forth and when it does this, clean the sensor through the gap with a clean cloth soaked in the solvent. Repeat if required. Jet some air using the air compressor to remove all the moisture and make sure it is dry before you fix it back on to the manifold.

2. Check the connections for all the sensors, one on the throttle body and two elsewhere on the manifold (as far as i can remember).

3. Reset the ECU - remove the battery terminal and connect it back.

If the above doesn't work, one more thing that you might try is to use Iftex system-G with your petrol. And make sure that you only fuel up from a good pump. Good fuel is the first thing that you need to ensure. Take my advice its no use going for a 97 octane or similar. Just go for normal clean unleaded petrol and add the recommended dose of system-G.

Last but not least check for any pressure drops or leakage in the vaccum pipes.
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Old 8th July 2008, 07:53   #37
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Default Its the throttle body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rao_battula View Post
Hello guys,
After getting serviced (3rd free service) my Adventure at Autofin, Hyderabad I have started observing a strange problem in the car. When clutch depressed to change the gear (or not) RPM shooting up to 1300 - 1400 RPM and stays there And I could hear Engine roar from the cabin.

However the problem is not consistent. As the guys did not do servicing very properly, event all required oils were not filled up in the car and their work was so worst that they forgot to fit oil filter cover after replacing the same. We tried to show the problem (RPM shooting up) to the guys, but the problem was not seen then. As we were not happy with the events, we went to Solar Automobiles for the servicing. The guy did all the checks and said the problem was rectified. En route home from service station, the same problem was seen. There after it has been fine and suddenly we started seeing this issue since yesterday.

Can any one throw light on this?

And I need the oil filter cover for the car, the part is not available in Hyderabad. My friend is visiting Bangalore next week (15, 16 and 17th). Can any of the guys from Bangalore help in this regard? He will come to you in person to collect the part.

-BSR
If this behaviour is inconsistent and seen on a warm engine then I think the guys at the service center should just clean the orifice housing the idling actuator after first cleaning the contacts. If its a consistent behaviour then they have exchanged your throttle body for a defective one of another car which was out of warranty but which the mechanic was indebted too. I had the problem in my GTX which was rectified by cleaning the orifice that houses the by pass airway and actuator of the throttle body. The byepass airway tends to clog up with muck especially if driven in the city where the idling actuator is working overtime once the AC is switched on.

Last edited by drpullockaran : 8th July 2008 at 07:54.
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Old 8th July 2008, 11:25   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16v100bhp View Post
The rpm shooting issue always boils down to the actuator/throttle body.
The 1.6 has an oil return pipe which comes before the throttle body which keeps clogging the sensor with some kind of a black sticky tar. I would like you to try these below before you actually think of replacing the throttle body or the sensors.


1. Remove and clean the throttle body especialy the sensor/actuator/stepper with a good solvent or cleaner. I think paint thinner would be a good idea after you jet and clean it first with diesel. Before you fix the throttle body back to the manifold, plug in the wires for the sensor and turn the ignition key on. You will see that the sensor kind of moves back and forth and when it does this, clean the sensor through the gap with a clean cloth soaked in the solvent. Repeat if required. Jet some air using the air compressor to remove all the moisture and make sure it is dry before you fix it back on to the manifold.

2. Check the connections for all the sensors, one on the throttle body and two elsewhere on the manifold (as far as i can remember).

3. Reset the ECU - remove the battery terminal and connect it back.

If the above doesn't work, one more thing that you might try is to use Iftex system-G with your petrol. And make sure that you only fuel up from a good pump. Good fuel is the first thing that you need to ensure. Take my advice its no use going for a 97 octane or similar. Just go for normal clean unleaded petrol and add the recommended dose of system-G.

Last but not least check for any pressure drops or leakage in the vaccum pipes.
The 'oil return pipe' that you refer to is the PVC or positive crankcase ventilation. It is a pipe from the valve housing to the intake manifold. The intake manifold provides a vacuum for excess gases in the crankcase and valve cover. If you are seeing excessive black sticky residue, you may have some engine problems. It needs to be cleaned regularly by pulling off the connection near the throttle body and spraying with carb cleaner. There is a wire mesh that can clog up, that should be cleaned.

Please do not use diesel to clean the TB. There are commercially available carb / TB cleaning spray cans that have solvents that won't harm your engine. These are designed to be sprayed directly into the TB with the motor running. But they cost a bit more than diesel. I paid Rs.330 at the dealer. Remember diesel fuel is oil, and you do NOT want to coat you TB and sensors with oil.
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Old 10th July 2008, 15:40   #39
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Default Palio 1.6 GTX

Update:

got the throttle body cleaned by 3M spray & changed the spark plugs. the old spark plugs were almost dead. the guy also resetted the ECU by pulling out the battery wire for 10 mins.

went for a drive after that - but as i was about to switch off the car i saw the RPM needle idling at 1100 for 4-5 sec. the guy said that it happens and asked to get the engine scanned - which i am yet to do.

drove the car again for another 15 mins to work through stop-n-go traffic -> didnt see the RPM act like that again. the car pulls and behaves normally. any inputs will be of great help

thanks

Last edited by planet_rocker : 10th July 2008 at 15:52.
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Old 10th July 2008, 16:23   #40
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Even I have had this problem with my 2004 Baleno Lxi.
The RPM fluctuates between 1200-800 and in some instances the car has even stalled. Lemme know what can be done.
Used this thread cause it's similar to my problem.
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Old 11th July 2008, 09:10   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet_rocker View Post
Update:

got the throttle body cleaned by 3M spray & changed the spark plugs. the old spark plugs were almost dead. the guy also resetted the ECU by pulling out the battery wire for 10 mins.

went for a drive after that - but as i was about to switch off the car i saw the RPM needle idling at 1100 for 4-5 sec. the guy said that it happens and asked to get the engine scanned - which i am yet to do.

drove the car again for another 15 mins to work through stop-n-go traffic -> didnt see the RPM act like that again. the car pulls and behaves normally. any inputs will be of great help

thanks
I suggest you give it some time to settle down. The ECU needs to re-learn. Observe the behavour and see its its still sticking to above 1000rpm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mayurpalav View Post
Even I have had this problem with my 2004 Baleno Lxi.
The RPM fluctuates between 1200-800 and in some instances the car has even stalled. Lemme know what can be done.
Used this thread cause it's similar to my problem.
It should just require a throttle body cleaning.
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Old 31st October 2010, 22:52   #42
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Default Sudden surge in RPM in my Petra

Friends, I need a few suggestions from you on a problem seen twice in last 3-6 months in my Petra. The RPM suddenly surged and went up to 3000 while waiting in traffic. I see a little bit of this in gear while driving too, even though the RPM did not climb that high with gears engaged. My mechanic told me it could be because throttle is not clean. I plan a visit tomorrow to have this cleaned with some fluid.

When I drove short distance today within 1 KN or so I did not see the same problem. The last time it happened was last evening and the one prior was probably 3 to 4 months ago. I felt it could have been because of dust or contamination in Petrol. This is a 1.6L Petrol vehicle.

Any suggestions, experiences will be highly appreciated.
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Old 31st October 2010, 23:05   #43
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Lightbulb Get the accelerator checked

Is it happening in any particular gear, or is it happening even when the car is stationary in neutral? If its happening even when the car is at standstill, then it's quite scary.

I am no expert, but I think you should get the accelerator pedal and assembly checked. It's possible that the even after taking your foot off the accelerator, the accelerator is getting stuck in 'pressed' down position, due to rusting; causing the engine to rev hard.
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Old 31st October 2010, 23:43   #44
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It happened in neutral, gears engaged and clutch fully depressed and while moving in gear too. I checked for potential accelerator stuck by trying to look for play, pull it by using foot, etc.. That does not seem to a the problem, when this happened last time, the engine seemed to be running a little rough.
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Old 1st November 2010, 06:10   #45
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This happened to my Siena 1.6 some years ago. I had to have the throttle body replaced. See this thread: RPM shoots up when clutch depressed

Last edited by aah78 : 1st November 2010 at 23:53. Reason: Link fixed.
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