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Old 23rd June 2008, 19:56   #31
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Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
I did not read the complete thread and hence wasted your time and mine too (Sorry) as I was aghast at the notion that the throttle body cannot be cleaned and wanted to pen down my 2 paisa information before he changed the throttle body. I gather its too late though. Gemi if you do not mind please keep all the exchanged parts with you as I would like to get my hands dirty on the old throttle body that you are probably going to throw away. I am serious.
Sorry.
THey did not give me any parts since i was under warranty. They said they needed it for claiming warranty. THanks for your help. It was not a waste of time

Just wanted to ask one more thing. I recently shfted to Castrol Magnatec 10W40 engine oil. I have a feeling that the car stains a little more than earlier before it reaches speeds above 100. Earlier 100 could just come without any strain at all. Not sure its its just a mental barrier but wanted to confirm if the change in oil could cause this. FIAT recommends 15W40.

Last edited by gemithomas : 23rd June 2008 at 19:59.
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Old 23rd June 2008, 22:29   #32
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Its a mental barrier coz technically car should feel more at ease with the better oil.
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Old 24th June 2008, 00:34   #33
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Default I doubt it is the oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gemithomas View Post
THey did not give me any parts since i was under warranty. They said they needed it for claiming warranty. THanks for your help. It was not a waste of time

Just wanted to ask one more thing. I recently shfted to Castrol Magnatec 10W40 engine oil. I have a feeling that the car stains a little more than earlier before it reaches speeds above 100. Earlier 100 could just come without any strain at all. Not sure its its just a mental barrier but wanted to confirm if the change in oil could cause this. FIAT recommends 15W40.

Before you put the oil in bad light I suggest you find out the viscosity values at 90-100degrees centigrade and above for both the oils. At low temps/start up the 10W40 oil is thinner without a doubt but what its value is at 100degrees and above when the engine is warmed up is what matters.

I too used Castol magnatec 2 years ago but was not happy with it as it did not match up to the cheaper but definitely superior Total/ELF oil which I have been using for a long long time now. I used the Magnatec and the Idemitsu oils in my GTX and Junkindica but they are not a patch on the oils from Total/Elf. Please note these are subjective assessements and not at all scientific. Moreover if you rip the car for a minute or 2 you can smell burnt oil when using castrol but not so with the other brands. I find TOTAL/Elf to be superior to Idemitsu too.
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Old 24th June 2008, 00:41   #34
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Idemetsu is a very average frequent change oil, Magnatec is definitely superior and very apt for our climate.
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Old 24th June 2008, 12:46   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
I did not read the complete thread and hence wasted your time and mine too (Sorry) as I was aghast at the notion that the throttle body cannot be cleaned and wanted to pen down my 2 paisa information before he changed the throttle body. I gather its too late though. Gemi if you do not mind please keep all the exchanged parts with you as I would like to get my hands dirty on the old throttle body that you are probably going to throw away. I am serious.
Sorry.
Nothing to be sorry dear. We wish to have more of your knowledge. Its just that the problem of Gemii was solved, so i wanted you to comment on my problem
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Old 24th June 2008, 13:08   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemithomas View Post
THey did not give me any parts since i was under warranty. They said they needed it for claiming warranty. THanks for your help. It was not a waste of time

Just wanted to ask one more thing. I recently shfted to Castrol Magnatec 10W40 engine oil. I have a feeling that the car stains a little more than earlier before it reaches speeds above 100. Earlier 100 could just come without any strain at all. Not sure its its just a mental barrier but wanted to confirm if the change in oil could cause this. FIAT recommends 15W40.
if you are buying castrol, be careful because there are many fakes available for this brand ..... this is the reason i stay away from castrol
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Old 25th June 2008, 23:17   #37
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Default Whether its rising or falling the culprit is the throttle body

If the acceleration of the vehicle above idle seems normal then its got only to do with the idle actuator, stepper motor of the throttle body.
If the power also seems to be down then you have got to check the fuel flow up to the injectors. My hunch is that its got to do with the byepass valve and stepper motor of the throttle body.




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I too got some rpm problem.
It happened at one traffic light, as the car was idle, the rpm by itself starts dropping from its 800 (i suppose thats 800) to 200, and then it keep on moving in between. This happened around a week back, then nothing happened till today.
Today same problem, and once even rpm dropped so low that once the battery light on the display panel glowed for a moment. every time the rpm dropped the car use to jerk similar to like knocking.
Also i had to press accelaertaor a bit hard to move the car.
I always go to same petrol pump, and use HP power. So i dont think fuel adulteration could be the cause. Also its not regular, and everthing is normal at higher speeds. Its only when car is standing this dropping of rpm occurs.
Clueless about what could be the cause.
Gemi I suppose in your case the rpm was rising above default level, but here its dropping.
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Old 28th June 2008, 05:56   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
If the acceleration of the vehicle above idle seems normal then its got only to do with the idle actuator, stepper motor of the throttle body.
If the power also seems to be down then you have got to check the fuel flow up to the injectors. My hunch is that its got to do with the byepass valve and stepper motor of the throttle body.
Hi Drpullockaran,
The problem is not at all periodic, nothing happened after that day. Car is running fine. I don't know how to convince the Service Center Guys that it needs the replacement of atleast the throttle body.
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Old 30th June 2008, 20:53   #39
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Default ISA may be the culprit !

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Originally Posted by gemithomas View Post
It should be the throttle body problem. You can get is replaced under warranty.
Hi , maybe it should not come to replacing the throttle body , just decarbonizing it ought to be enough , also with servicing of the ISA ( Idle speed actuator ) as some of th BHPIANS suggested.
Most likely that should solve your problem.
regards
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Old 17th September 2008, 20:58   #40
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Default Need help for a similar problem

hi to all
this is my first post (ever) in any forum so pardon me if am not all that savy to things automotive.
I have a Palio GTX and the problem am facing is that the car slows abruptly in lower gears (1st,2nd &3rd gears) when i take my foot off the gas pedal. It almost brakes suddenly. I notice that the RPM fall rate is not very rapid but i really cant say about this (frankly i dont know which is the normal fall rate). But am almost pushed forward in my driver seat as i shift gears..i need to maintain throttle to some extent or else this braking will occur.

The mech diagonised this a throttle body idle accuator problem and the sensor not functioning as well. We tried getting the sensor alone but i guess its part of the throttle body in Palio GTX. So we did manage to get one from a total broken down car and fitted it. There is only a very slight improvement..(maybe I am imagining this too). I am a little worried if the car that coming behind will not expect this braking thats happening as i shift through lower gears. Should I change the entire throttle body unit which costs about 13k or this could be any other problem. the idle RPM with and without AC remains at 800 all the time and the engine does not cut off at all..so thats not a worry.

Any ideas from any you would be a big help.
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Old 18th September 2008, 11:26   #41
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are you talking about engine braking? lets say you shifted to 2nd from 1st - take it to 40kph at 2k rpm and let go of the gas pedal - the car behaves as if someone is hitting the brakes?
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Old 19th September 2008, 14:23   #42
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Well the RPM dropping problem got a severe shape last week.
It happened in the evenin when i was reurning back from office. Firstly in idle state the RPM use to drop below 800 mark, the car use to shudder, and at times it went off. And as soon as i engaged 1st gear and release the clutch, the RPM almost use to went to zero and car would turn off. I have to press the accelrator so that rpm increases above 2000 and then release the clutch. In a stretch of around 4 kms the car went off around 5-6 times. I immediately took it to the Dhingra Motors, but as it was too late(6 PM), so the advisor told me to bring back the car next day morning. I showed him the problem, and he said it has to be seen through Examiner and check whats the problem. Somehow I managed to reach home. NExt day morning I again went to Dhingra motors. Just to drive the car from outside the shed to inside the shed of workshop, the mechanic himself has to work hard and Rev the engine at high RPM, even with him the car went off three times for a distance of merely 20 meters.
Also i observed the car was giving a lot of black smoke.
Now as one guy connected Examiner, the car started behaving normally.
I asked him what has he done, he said nothing, he was just trying to see whats wrong. After that I took test drive of 6-7 Kms and cae was running perfectly normal.
I was utterly confused as to what is happeneing. When i asked the service manager, he said maybe some adulterated fuel have altered some setings and examiner may have corrected it by itself. I am confused whether mere connecting to examiner can correct the wrong settings and no one have to instruct for that.
Anyhow i took the car back, and now after 4-5 days again the same problem is resurfacing with some midlness. Like the RPM drops at times but not always and not that drastically.
Fellow members kindly share your opinions and suggestions on this problem
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Old 19th September 2008, 14:30   #43
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@raghav - they didn't clean the throttle? they didnt say anything about the throttle body actuator? did it happen when the car is hot / stop & go traffic?
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Old 19th September 2008, 14:55   #44
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@raghav - they didn't clean the throttle? they didnt say anything about the throttle body actuator? did it happen when the car is hot / stop & go traffic?
No to my surprise they didn't mentioned anything about it. I told them to check the throttle body and injectors, but since the problem was not appearing that time, so I suppose they were more happy to get releived from me, and everytime i asked them anything, they siad same thing that sir now everything is OK then no need to check anything.
Dhingra Motors in inherently a TATA dealer which started selling FIAT only a year back.
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Old 22nd September 2008, 12:51   #45
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Hello to all, Maurizio Pescatori here from Italy.

While I (currently) do not own a Fiat, you will imagine Fiats are a "staple ingredient" in the average Italian's life, you'll not find one who, some time or another, didn't own a Fiat ! (and if it wasn't him/her, it was Mummy/Daddy's car...)

You all seem so concerned about the idle speed actuator and the throttle body, but...
...let's go back to the good old days of carburettors and condenser/points ignition.

What would/could make a car drop in revs, sputer and run erratically?

"Dirty fuel" one thinks, but... have you all checked your fuel filters?
Even if your fuel does seem clean, if the fuel filter has clogged over time, fuel will not reach the carburettor properly.

Second issue, dirty carburettor bowl & jets. In EFI terms, dirty injectors. So clean the injectors. How? Buy a industrial-sized bottle of injector cleaner, and pour it into the tank, then fill up. I'm not talking about the "one fuid ounce treats 20 gals", I mean one pint! It'll eat up the muck like you've never even imagined! And change the filter before and after this treatment.

Third, ignition.
If, after all thins cleaning up, the car still , then it's time you looked at ignition.

When I had your very same symptoms, I did all the above, and the car would STILL run erratically! I was desperate... because,. among things, I commute an average of 2000 miles/month, so my car's performance is important to me!

I'll spare you the tragicomedy of months and months of my car limping, then working fine ONLY as I would drive into the official dealership's workshop.

It turned out the engine had two loose spark plug cables.

It seems the mechanics would pull the spark plug leads from the leads themselves, rather than from the rubber booties that cover the spark plug contacts. The lead had become disjoined from the plug, so one, eventually two cylinders would only get their spark erratically, not properly as expected.

So, if all else fails, check your plug leads.
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