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Old 29th May 2008, 12:27   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
Well, no problems at all if you start your journey in reverse, unless you are the type that believes in wierd superstitions.
Absolutly right!
Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
However, it is usually suggested that you park in such a way that, when you take the car next, it goes forward. This is more for FE reasons, because on a cold engine, a reverse move uses up more fuel than it would if you were going forward.
Oops, I am hearing this theory for 1st time!
Any reference or link to support this theory?
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Old 29th May 2008, 12:57   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eclectix 1st
Thats new to me. Always assumed forward = Reverse in terms of FE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by finneyp
Oops, I am hearing this theory for 1st time! Any reference or link to support this theory?
Well, guys, I learnt (or heard about it) on tbhp. IIRC it was on a thread about why it is better to park in reverse - and this was one of the advantages.

BTW, eclectix, I don't think FE will be same if you traverse a particular distance in forward and reverse - reverse would consume more fuel.

But in this case, it is about the car using more fuel when we do reverse on a cold start.

EDIT : OK, it was not tbhp, but PCRA that mentioned this - see post below :
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/204949-post23.html

Last edited by supremeBaleno : 29th May 2008 at 13:05.
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Old 29th May 2008, 13:10   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
Well, no problems at all if you start your journey in reverse, unless you are the type that believes in wierd superstitions.

However, it is usually suggested that you park in such a way that, when you take the car next, it goes forward. This is more for FE reasons, because on a cold engine, a reverse move uses up more fuel than it would if you were going forward.
Thanks for the reply. The difference in FE is new to me also.
But my parking scenario is slightly weird, explaining it in words is not that easy. In short, the way to my slot through the pillars of the apartment is very congested. But coming out is slightly straight. (Only hatchbacks can be parked in the slots below the flat by the way) If I have to park facing the way, I need to enter through the exit and exit through the entry. (I know just by reading this you may not believe this). So unless there is no problem with the engines or gears if I start in reverse, I need to continue as I do now itself.
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Old 29th May 2008, 14:40   #49
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there is this one thing i wanted to mention, the idling at the beginning of the day should be not less than 1 and 1/2 minute be it any car, this is good for the engine and battery especially.

this i realized recently when i bought new battery for my viva crdi, man the costs of batteries have gone up crazily they are up by about 40%, so people give proper attention to the battery too.
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Old 29th May 2008, 14:57   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhilash_iv
So unless there is no problem with the engines or gears if I start in reverse, I need to continue as I do now itself.
Go ahead with whatever parking suits you (reverse first or front first) - either way it is OK for your engine and gears.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rider60
there is this one thing i wanted to mention, the idling at the beginning of the day should be not less than 1 and 1/2 minute be it any car, this is good for the engine and battery especially.
Diesels might have a different manufacturer-specified idling routine (on start and before stopping), especially for ones with turbo-chargers. But for modern day petrols, there is no need for idling. As per the PCRA's list of good driving habits, "Don't wait for your car to warm up. Instead, drive in low gear till the engine warms up."

Quote:
Originally Posted by rider60
this i realized recently when i bought new battery for my viva crdi, man the costs of batteries have gone up crazily they are up by about 40%, so people give proper attention to the battery too.
What has idling to do with battery ? Once your car engine is running, the battery will be charged by the alternator, irrespective of whether you are idling or moving.
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Old 29th May 2008, 17:00   #51
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Starting Sequence i follow

1.unfold the folded ORVM's.
2.Seat Comfortably.
3.Crank the engine.
4.Release the parking brake.
4.Wear the seat-belt.By this time,most of the warning lights goes off in the instrument cluster.
5.Check the Idling RPM.
6.Start the A/C.
7.Slot the first Gear and move on.

Have a good drive. :-)
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Old 29th May 2008, 17:46   #52
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The "Fiat":
1. take out the keys / check the tyres
2. the door lock sometimes refuses to open
3. open the hood
4. check water level in the radiator / fill water
5. check Brake oil level / engine oil level.
6. slot in neutral
7. crank the engine - usually wakes up after 1-2 times
8. enjoy the free flow exhaust note in the closed garage - MY CAR's ICE - engine warms up by this time
9. slot in first and move on

The GTX:
1. open door and sit in the car / wear seat belts
2. slot in neutral and turn ignition on
3. crank the engine
4. open windows / turn on the crappy ICE
5. engine warms up in about 30-40 seconds
6. disengage parking brake, slot in first and move on.

Last edited by planet_rocker : 29th May 2008 at 17:47.
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Old 29th May 2008, 20:44   #53
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OT: I do not know of any reference/link to support this theory, but ever since I learned how to drive the Landmaster, I've seen my Grandfather, Father, Uncle etc. all parking in reverse with the nose upfront. The reasons given were as under:


1: In an emergency it is easier to drive without wasting time reversing the car

2: Since the reverse gear is the most powerful of all gears in the car, puts a lot of stress on a cold engine hence enhancing wear & tear and affecting the FE.

I've always practised this ever since and now my wife too follows this. My son is also learning the same method with the same reasons explained to him..


Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno
However, it is usually suggested that you park in such a way that, when you take the car next, it goes forward. This is more for FE reasons, because on a cold engine, a reverse move uses up more fuel than it would if you were going forward.
Quote:
Originally Posted by finneyp View Post
Absolutly right!

Oops, I am hearing this theory for 1st time!
Any reference or link to support this theory?
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Old 31st May 2008, 20:01   #54
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Guys Im really surprised at this thread.
cmon guys how much difference does it really make ?
Im also a car enthusiast but this is really stretching it seriously, this thread is boderlining as being nonsense.
1] car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed : how much of battery life will you guys increase ? hmmmm... let me guess 18 seconds added to the entire life of the battery over a period of 2 years?
2] Starting car in reverse/forward : As reverse will put more stress on engine ? how about never using the reverse gear, always drive around in circles ?
3] Not starting in reverse for more FE : cmon dudes are we going 800 kms in reverse gear..
4]also its not like we are starting up some weird race spec engine or doing a rocket launch ?
switching off AC and ICE and waiting for fuel pump to stop whirring is ok, but anyways the during startup all the power is fed to the starter motor, AC, ICE and even headlights are automatically given reduced power/cut off during ignition.
As someone said during idling power comes from alternator ..to that I can say not always, depends on the load - during idle sometimes ur battery can be used if the alternator is not at a particular rpm during idle.
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Old 1st June 2008, 13:46   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetanhanda View Post
Guys Im really surprised at this thread.
cmon guys how much difference does it really make ?
Im also a car enthusiast but this is really stretching it seriously, this thread is boderlining as being nonsense.
1] car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed : how much of battery life will you guys increase ? hmmmm... let me guess 18 seconds added to the entire life of the battery over a period of 2 years?
2] Starting car in reverse/forward : As reverse will put more stress on engine ? how about never using the reverse gear, always drive around in circles ?
3] Not starting in reverse for more FE : cmon dudes are we going 800 kms in reverse gear..
4]also its not like we are starting up some weird race spec engine or doing a rocket launch ?
switching off AC and ICE and waiting for fuel pump to stop whirring is ok, but anyways the during startup all the power is fed to the starter motor, AC, ICE and even headlights are automatically given reduced power/cut off during ignition.
As someone said during idling power comes from alternator ..to that I can say not always, depends on the load - during idle sometimes ur battery can be used if the alternator is not at a particular rpm during idle.

the use of reverse gear statement
how much stress is a big question mark. my 18yr old car has clocked over a million K's and every morning after a little forward movement (not superstitious - but a habit) i have to reverse for say 50mtrs with AC On (have been doing this for last 6 yrs as the - 3rd owner).

This reverse thingy is humourous.

Last edited by Jr Godzilla : 1st June 2008 at 13:49.
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Old 2nd June 2008, 20:09   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetanhanda View Post
Guys Im really surprised at this thread.
cmon guys how much difference does it really make ?
Im also a car enthusiast but this is really stretching it seriously, this thread is boderlining as being nonsense.
1] car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed : how much of battery life will you guys increase ? hmmmm... let me guess 18 seconds added to the entire life of the battery over a period of 2 years?
2] Starting car in reverse/forward : As reverse will put more stress on engine ? how about never using the reverse gear, always drive around in circles ?
3] Not starting in reverse for more FE : cmon dudes are we going 800 kms in reverse gear..
4]also its not like we are starting up some weird race spec engine or doing a rocket launch ?
switching off AC and ICE and waiting for fuel pump to stop whirring is ok, but anyways the during startup all the power is fed to the starter motor, AC, ICE and even headlights are automatically given reduced power/cut off during ignition.
As someone said during idling power comes from alternator ..to that I can say not always, depends on the load - during idle sometimes ur battery can be used if the alternator is not at a particular rpm during idle.
Also let me add to that: its not like we have a dry sump or something and we need to switch on the oil pump for lubricating our race spec engines etc, just dont redline it within 1 second of starting up would be fine I think.
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Old 2nd June 2008, 20:22   #57
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Certain cars with a clutch lock will not crank when the clutch is not depressed when starting. Very few examples of those exist in India but almost all cars in the US have a clutch lock.
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Old 3rd June 2008, 07:55   #58
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I think the Verna Diesel has a clutch lock.
Can some owner confirm?
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Old 3rd June 2008, 09:31   #59
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Some changes to the original list

1) Press the foot brake as soon as you sit in. I have seen that if you have put hand brake after a drive in the night or a long drive the brake gets loose after some time and some times the vehicle even moves forward if the gears do not come to rescue.
2) Adjust mirrors and seat, doing seat/mirror adjustment after engine start is not advisable as you move significantly and accidents can happen.
3) Press the clutch and bring to neutral
4) Start the engine keeping the engine clutch. If the car was idle for long periods of time the oil on the gears would have drained to the well. It adds to the various friction and you starter needs to crank more power(Typically bad for starter gear and motor, not designed for it).
5) Idle for about 10 seconds by this time the oil inside the engine would have started circulating up to some extent. You can spend this time looking at the road traffic, wearing seatbelts, running your windscreen washer etc.
6) Release hand brake, slot the first gear and move smoothly on half clutch(important on morning starts, to start oil circulation inside gear box).

In MPFI engines idling for long periods of time in cold starts is bad as without load most of the heat produced just goes to heating the catalytic converter and to exhaust(the engine runs rich and cold engine will not burn fuel that well so the left over fuel is burnt at the catalytic converter, heating it). So about 10 secs will do to get the catalytic converter to optimal temperature(it would be nice if cars had lights to indicate this and converter overheating). Then you have to add load to the engine to heat the coolant and the engine internals. There is about 4 liters of liquid there so driving without acceleration just shifting the gears will help bringing up the operating temperature quickly, this also brings up the oil circuit quickly and save your engine from unwanted wear. Also working through the gears mean that they get proper run in too.

Refrain from hard reving the engine as soon as you start, keep it close to idle, cold/warm.

When the vehicle is not at motion do not press accelerator for elongated periods(like 30secs), this will directly kill the catcon.

In carb cars use the choke for about 30-40 secs(when cold) but keep the car in motion and start with a choke on cold starts.

In diesels just allow the oil to reach the turbo, this means the same steps will work there too.
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Old 3rd June 2008, 11:03   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anupmathur View Post
I think the Verna Diesel has a clutch lock.
Can some owner confirm?
Yes, Owners co-brother in law confirming this.

co-brother in law: the guy who is married to my wife' sister.
Any alternative way to describe this.
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