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Old 14th May 2010, 11:55   #2116
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Originally Posted by mercedised View Post
Today, I drove my friends VTT. I noticed that the in between 2K-3K RPM at some point the car would take a sudden JERK and then will accelerate like a maniac. The jerk was very much pronounced and one could easily feel it. The jerk was like the engine suddenly gets freed-up from some load and starts accelerating much freely. AC was ON all the time.
Any guess about the problem or it's normal nature of VTT.
Try System D to begin with @1ml/ltr of Diesel, tank up and add 65ml in the first fill. That should help.
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Old 14th May 2010, 14:17   #2117
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Originally Posted by mercedised View Post
Today, I drove my friends VTT. I noticed that the in between 2K-3K RPM at some point the car would take a sudden JERK and then will accelerate like a maniac.
I know exactly what you are talking about. Is your friend using premium diesel like TurboJet, etc? If yes, ask him to discontinue and start using normal/regular diesel. In all probability, this is a blocked injector issue which should get sorted out with usage of regular diesel. If it persists, get the fuel supply system (linings, filter, pump, etc) checked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bj96 View Post
That is the VTT (Variable Turbine Turbo) kicking in. In my case that happens ~2000rpm.
BJ - I don't think this is the turbo kicking in, which is more of a surge than a 'jerk'.
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Old 14th May 2010, 15:39   #2118
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Hi all, got a problem with my beast after a long time. My problem is that the front left passenger side door doesn't close properly which means that I have to close the door harder then the normal otherwise the door open warning remains ON and also the gap between the door and the car remains a bit more as compared to the others. I will be taking my car to TASS to show the same so i thought I'd ask the experts here and have an idea on what the problem might be.
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Old 14th May 2010, 16:56   #2119
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Default UPDATE ON 45k SERVICE CLOSEOUT

Got the truck back yesterday with all issues resolved.

They opened the timing cover to check the water pump for coolant leaks and found the timing belt cut on the inside. They followed up with TML to find out if my vehicle was part of the retro, but the chassis no of my vehicle was not included in the retro. However, they replaced all the necessary components as per the retro recall and have forwarded the issue to TML. I did not have to pay for any of the retro fittings as the costs were forwarded to TML.

Regarding the retro. The call for retro for timing issues is as follows;
Most of the vehicles that were included in the retro had timing belt wear on the outside of the belt with damage to the idlers, etc. However, in mY safari the damage was on the inner side of the belt.

Regarding the coolant leak. There was no leak in the coolant. I had misread the coolant level. The coolant marker sits quite low in the reservoir.

Regarding the oil leakage.
There was no leakage found. Instead, they found the oil seperator to be faulty. Due to this oil was being sent to the manifold and being burnt instead of being sent down the engine block. They have replaced the oil seperator, under warranty.

The change in the timing belt and other components has reduced the engine noise considerably.

Following are pics of the worn timing belt followed by the faulty oil seperator.
The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-20100512-12.29.49.jpg

The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-20100512-12.30.19.jpg

The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-20100514-07.32.23.jpg

The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-20100514-07.34.02.jpg
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Old 16th May 2010, 14:21   #2120
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With diesel filled up in Arunachal [there is only 1 pump at Tawang and you fill what they give] and Assam and interior Orissa, got the sedimenter cleaned up though there was no light, before the Vidarbha journey.

Just proves that dont wait for the light, do get it cleaned every 10 k km - much much better than all that dirt going into fuel lines and you dont get warranty if engine is down for that.

Also cleaning sedimenter is a delicate job, taking out the sensor and all, so if not confident do it in a service station.


Diesel sediment caught up in the sedimenter.
The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-img_8288.jpg

Last edited by adc : 16th May 2010 at 14:23.
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Old 17th May 2010, 17:24   #2121
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@bj96, dkamath, simply_sunny001, dadu, cool_dube
Thanks for your caring opinions friends.
Yes, That is a severe JERK that i experienced. That was surely not VTT kicking-in, as that was a heavier jerk. I told him to check the car through SC. Let's see what happens.
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Old 17th May 2010, 17:49   #2122
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Originally Posted by manikahuja View Post
Just reviving an old topic, can anybody help. The Grinding noise when braking lightly persists and TASS has no clue.

Experts, please provide your valuable inputs.
Even I am facing the same issue. Though in my case I have heard this grinding noise probably 2 or 3 times during the last 500-600 KMs.

The ABS warning light also glows up irratically only to go off all by itself.

The left front wheel seems to make a peculiar noise, something like "KHAT" when ever it goes over a pot hole or a speed breaker. Had this problem before the second service at 5K, the service guys said they greased the suspension and the problem had vanished for about 7000 KMs, only to have resurfaced again. Has anyone else had this problem. Is there a permanent solution?

I have just completed 13000 Kms but in all probability will go for the 3rd Service a little early than the recomended 15K.
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Old 17th May 2010, 18:09   #2123
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Originally Posted by Devil on Wheels View Post
Even I am facing the same issue. Though in my case I have heard this grinding noise probably 2 or 3 times during the last 500-600 KMs.

The ABS warning light also glows up irratically only to go off all by itself.

The left front wheel seems to make a peculiar noise, something like "KHAT" when ever it goes over a pot hole or a speed breaker. Had this problem before the second service at 5K, the service guys said they greased the suspension and the problem had vanished for about 7000 KMs, only to have resurfaced again. Has anyone else had this problem. Is there a permanent solution?

I have just completed 13000 Kms but in all probability will go for the 3rd Service a little early than the recomended 15K.
Get the ABS sensors air cleaned.

Greasing wont help , get the Idler arm tightened, this need adjustment every few thousand kms as if tightened too much will give you a stiff steering wheel.

3rd Service should be at 30K Kms not 15K.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 13:37   #2124
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Hi all,

My dicor is only 5 months old now. 1 observation, when parking in slopes with the parking brake and the car in neutral, initially it was perfect. After a few times, initially the vehicle couldn't be held back. It slipped for a foot or 2 and then got some grip. Is this normal? i thought the parking brake is supposed to keep your vehicle at halt at inclines too.

If any of you suggesting me to keep it in gear when parked, i wudn't prefer that as, i used to do the same in my Bolero. Eventually, the gear teeth corroded off and now after a few years, it just cant stand halted in a slope without the brake pedal pressed.

Please help. this is a serious problem and am planning a Sikkim tour soon. Parking brake is an absolute necessity there .
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Old 22nd May 2010, 14:07   #2125
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Originally Posted by arijit.co.in View Post
...If any of you suggesting me to keep it in gear when parked...Parking brake is an absolute necessity there .
Pull parking brake fully and also apply 1st or reverse gear. Have been doing that for my wagonr (and safari too) for eight years (> 0.5 lacs kms) no issues. Brake pads will bed over time hence you should pull brake little more over time. Also, be doubly sure, put a small stone/brick in front of one or both rear tires on inclines- you are good to go

-BJ
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Old 22nd May 2010, 14:20   #2126
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Originally Posted by arijit.co.in View Post
...initially the vehicle couldn't be held back. It slipped for a foot or 2 and then got some grip. Is this normal? i thought the parking brake is supposed to keep your vehicle at halt at inclines too.
Get the parking brake cable adjusted.

A quick trick: While applying the parking brake, depress the hydraulic (foot) brakes firmly first with the engine running. Then pull up the handbrake lever as far as it will go. Release foot brakes. Switch off engine.

When starting off again, start the engine, press the foot brake, release parking brake, then move the car.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 16:00   #2127
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Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
Get the parking brake cable adjusted.

A quick trick: While applying the parking brake, depress the hydraulic (foot) brakes firmly first with the engine running. Then pull up the handbrake lever as far as it will go. Release foot brakes. Switch off engine.

When starting off again, start the engine, press the foot brake, release parking brake, then move the car.

well thats what i usually do brother. pulling the car to a halt with the parking brake is just too aggressive on it.

guess no other option then, other than using a stone or something to keep the car from rolling.

but thanks for your suggestions.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 19:29   #2128
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Originally Posted by arijit.co.in View Post
well thats what i usually do brother. pulling the car to a halt with the parking brake is just too aggressive on it.
I guess you got me wrong.

I didn't mean for you to pull the parking brake to bring the car to a halt (though it is definitely justified in a rare emergency, with failure of both hydraulic circuits).

In a stopped car (any car, not just the Safari), when you press down the brake pedal hard, the brake shoes are now expanded firmly against the drums because of hydraulic pressure. Then it is a simpler job to simultaneously pull up the hand brake lever and engage into its ratchet; you get better handbrake engagement and more grip - no more rolling, no stones required in front of wheels.

To get the same parking brake force by pulling up the parking brake lever only, would require a lot more effort because of the resistance of the shoe return springs, the cable's own internal friction etc.

However, to disengage the ratchet from the parking brake again would also require more effort. Hence, start the car, press down on the brake pedal, and it's easier to disengage the ratchet now.

Try this on a slope and let's see whether your Safari rolls back any more.

Hope this explains better.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 19:41   #2129
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Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
I guess you got me wrong.

I didn't mean for you to pull the parking brake to bring the car to a halt (though it is definitely justified in a rare emergency, with failure of both hydraulic circuits).

In a stopped car (any car, not just the Safari), when you press down the brake pedal hard, the brake shoes are now expanded firmly against the drums because of hydraulic pressure. Then it is a simpler job to simultaneously pull up the hand brake lever and engage into its ratchet; you get better handbrake engagement and more grip - no more rolling, no stones required in front of wheels.

To get the same parking brake force by pulling up the parking brake lever only, would require a lot more effort because of the resistance of the shoe return springs, the cable's own internal friction etc.

However, to disengage the ratchet from the parking brake again would also require more effort. Hence, start the car, press down on the brake pedal, and it's easier to disengage the ratchet now.

Try this on a slope and let's see whether your Safari rolls back any more.

Hope this explains better.
exactly. this is exactly what i do but, unconsciously. its become my habit. but the problem persists. well, for your assurance, will be getting to my pal in a few days and try it again. this time consciously. will confirm you then.



There's another problem. since day 1, my speedometer needle has a great degree of fluctuation. the rpm needle works fine. immediately after delivery, the next day, i went back to the workshop of the dealer. the guy went underneath and did something. the problem got cured only to resurface again. referred it time and again but to no hope.

the last time i visited TASS for this, they checked and replaced the speed sensors and did everything possible without opening any major components. the problem didn't get resolved. it took a full day and everything was done in my presence.

at evening, the works manager tells me, the only option i have now is to let them open the gearbox and detect the problem. the laptop shows errors but was not able to show exactly where.

now since my vehicle is a new one, i didn't think it a wise decision to open a sealed gearbox for this small an issue. rather i would drive with this. note : the mileage reading is perfect though.

any experience on this one anyone? simply don't know what to do. please help.

Last edited by arijit.co.in : 22nd May 2010 at 19:43.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 12:47   #2130
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Originally Posted by arijit.co.in View Post
at evening, the works manager tells me, the only option i have now is to let them open the gearbox and detect the problem. the laptop shows errors but was not able to show exactly where.
Whats the error code ?? if you can check again.

It was a good decision to not let them open up the Gearbox.
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