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Old 29th August 2009, 13:45   #1126
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Originally Posted by freewheelburnin View Post

2)The car takes a while to reach optimum temperature reading...

3) Some squeaks have set in from the seats which needs to be rectified...
#2) That is characteristics of a diesel engine. If you are used to a petrol before then, you will find safari taking appreciably longer. Mine warms up in about 5-7 kms run at ~2000rpm.

#3) Check for loose seats + generous dose of wd40 on springs and joints keeps them quite for few months.

-BJ
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Old 29th August 2009, 20:13   #1127
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Today evening when i went to fill petrol, I saw a new vending machine with large displays and also showing density of the fuel too. it was showing 800 kg/m~3 .

I thing this is a good info which will ensure that there is no adulteration in fuel.
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Old 29th August 2009, 22:05   #1128
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Originally Posted by v&v View Post
Today evening when i went to fill petrol, I saw a new vending machine with large displays and also showing density of the fuel too. it was showing 800 kg/m~3 .

I thing this is a good info which will ensure that there is no adulteration in fuel.
I think it should be 820 or so.
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Old 30th August 2009, 07:20   #1129
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I think it should be 820 or so.
Jk i went to fill petrol for my baleno. Hence the density shown was for petrol not diesel. I think petrol density is at 760 km/m3 and diesel at 820 kg/m3.
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Old 31st August 2009, 08:52   #1130
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Default Alignment report

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Originally Posted by amitk26 View Post
Pinging again .. Can some one please post the normal value range of Camber,Caster and Toe for 2.2 VTT Safari ?
Hi amitk26, hope this helps.
Cheers.
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The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-alignment_report.jpg  

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Old 31st August 2009, 09:12   #1131
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Originally Posted by dkamath View Post
Hi amitk26, hope this helps.
Cheers.
Thanks a ton dkamath for posting this ,

As I suspected the 2.2 Alignment reference values are different from Sumo / Old Safari which wheel alignment shops have.

Safari Owners if you are getting your wheel alignment done take a printout of these values and then get the alignment adjusted.


For Camber, shim adjustment needs to be done which only TASS can do.
T.A.S.S Laser pads for alignment fit only on OEM steel / Alloy wheel so If you have changed the alloys they need to put back steel wheels and do alignment.

PS: Mr. Kamath , I noticed that rear wheel alignment is not done did you enquire T.A.S.S about it ?
Safari is RWD and I think in RWD and 4WD it should be done please correct me if this is not true.
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Old 31st August 2009, 16:15   #1132
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The 2.2 Gear Shift is

Gear Shift is as follows:
upshift
1-2 : 20kmph
2-3: 45kmph
3-4: 65kmph
4-5: 90kmph

downshift
2-1: 15 kmph
3-2: 25kmph
4-3: 45kmph
5-4: 60kmph

Please help me understand correctly,

The range for 2nd gear is right from 15kmph until 45kmph.
The same is true for 3rd gear 25kmph until 60kmph.
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Old 31st August 2009, 17:11   #1133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulk76 View Post
The 2.2 Gear Shift is

Gear Shift is as follows:
upshift
1-2 : 20kmph
2-3: 45kmph
3-4: 65kmph
4-5: 90kmph

downshift
2-1: 15 kmph
3-2: 25kmph
4-3: 45kmph
5-4: 60kmph

Please help me understand correctly,

The range for 2nd gear is right from 15kmph until 45kmph.
The same is true for 3rd gear 25kmph until 60kmph.
To get max mileage? I didnt get you.
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Old 31st August 2009, 17:29   #1134
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Originally Posted by jkdas View Post
To get max mileage? I didnt get you.
No No.. Wanted to know whether what I typed was correct or not
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Old 31st August 2009, 17:56   #1135
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Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
@freewheelburning: ECU doesn't learn one's driving pattern. For that matter, an ECU doesn't 'learn' anything when installed in a car. All it's learnings are done offline when loaded with a driveability map. All ECUs are straightforward controllers which take instantaneous decisions based on immediate conditions (current RPM, oxygen level, driver demand, rail pressure, etc. etc.). The only things that ECU retains long-term memory of is errors encountered while working.
Err, ECUs do learn long term data that is unique to that engine, like fuel trims. While every ECU for a vehicle is identical thanks to digital copying, engines and mechanical components aren't. There are several parameters in an ECU which are dynamically learned and compensated for. And in today's world, they are always compensated for emissions.

The peppiness people associate with an ECU reset is because the ECU has forgotten how much it is going to tame the engine so the planet isn't harmed.

Of course, transmission controllers for A/T always adapt. Some of the more driver oriented ones even have several different "maps" of driver habits. They are smart enough to know the driver's driving habits and know when he's driving sedately or pedal to metal and appropriately switch between learned maps. I've heard of some which communicate with the built in nav system and thereby learn where a driver tends to rip his car. Just imagine, your car automatically going to race mode when you reach that piece of great road at a particular time because it knows you always rip the car down that road at 5AM. It's a brave new world!
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Old 31st August 2009, 18:01   #1136
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Rahul, isnt it easier to shift with respect to R.P.M?If you try to be within a band of 1500 to 2500 RPM you cannot go wrong.2200/2500 for upshift and 1200/1500 for downshift is what i follow.This can take care of RPM shooting up or plunging down and maintain around 2000 RPM.I found this comfortable, and works for me.You could try a different RPM band too for more performance or better fuel efficiency as may apply.In short it depends on your driving style or what you are trying to achieve.
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No No.. Wanted to know whether what I typed was correct or not

Last edited by freewheelburnin : 31st August 2009 at 18:02.
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Old 31st August 2009, 18:08   #1137
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Originally Posted by freewheelburnin View Post
Rahul, isnt it easier to shift with respect to R.P.M?If you try to be within a band of 1500 to 2500 RPM you cannot go wrong.2200/2500 for upshift and 1200/1500 for downshift is what i follow.This can take care of RPM shooting up or plunging down and maintain around 2000 RPM.I found this comfortable, and works for me.You could try a different RPM band too for more performance or better fuel efficiency as may apply.In short it depends on your driving style or what you are trying to achieve.
Honestly I Agree, but i was trying so see logic(x) inside the manual which states the speed i named and trying to understand. I do drive within 5% of rpm range you drive, but start getting jerks so...
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Old 31st August 2009, 19:07   #1138
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Originally Posted by Rahulk76 View Post

No No.. Wanted to know whether what I typed was correct or not

Will need to check. Remember 3rd top is 95-100 and 4th can go tad above 140 @ 4000rpm
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Old 1st September 2009, 19:36   #1139
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I recently visited reliance autozone where I found a new diesel engine additive called NANO ENERGISER. Clams to use some ceramic technology and improves performance and milage too. Has anybody tried or has more info.
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Old 1st September 2009, 19:45   #1140
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The style of releasing the clutch has a lot to do with jerks.Try a faster clutch release.I may not be right but please try it.Try increasing the speed of taking your foot off the clutch gradually.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulk76 View Post
Honestly I Agree, but i was trying so see logic(x) inside the manual which states the speed i named and trying to understand. I do drive within 5% of rpm range you drive, but start getting jerks so...

Last edited by freewheelburnin : 1st September 2009 at 19:48.
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