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Old 13th January 2009, 15:24   #46
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but a bad connector would mean no connection right?? this works sometimes. and sometimes is slow! gives me the illusion that the motor is slow, but theres something else thats wrong.
also, im very careful that i roll up one window at a time, and the drivers power window is surprisingly fast, but the passengers window moves up taking its own sweet time
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Old 13th January 2009, 15:29   #47
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Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
here's whats happening in my car now.
the passenger power window's still problematic. but the problem is different. the window goes up fine with the button on the passengers side, but the moment i start using the button on the drivers side, it becomes horribly slow and just stops.
so i don't blame the rubber for it. whats happening?
I think your alternator is not doing its job, even i had the same issue, got alternator repaired it worked fine for a few days and the problem again came back. i.e. the alternator again started to malfunction.

Let it be the way it is, just rev the engine more when you are trying roll the left window up from drivers side and it will go up at the same speed, same as when its being rolled from its parent switch ( switch on the left door ).

Last edited by Bubby : 13th January 2009 at 15:31.
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Old 13th January 2009, 15:34   #48
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I think your alternator is not doing its job, even i had the same issue, got alternator repaired it worked fine for a few days and the problem again came back. i.e. the alternator again started to malfunction.

Let it be the way it is, just rev the engine more when you are trying roll the left window up from drivers side and it will go up at the same speed, same as when its being rolled from its parent switch ( switch on the left door ).

i rev the engine while rolling up the windows. im still not convinced its the alternator. it runs 2 amps and a lot of speakers effectively. why would it cry for a small power window motor??
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Old 13th January 2009, 15:35   #49
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A bad connector does not necessarily mean an open circuit. If there is rust/oxide whatever between the surfaces then the current flow will be significantly reduced due to the resistance. As for the alternator issue obviously if the voltage is low then the current (esp. with a longer length of wiring in between) will also be lower. From the Driver's side the length of the wire is quite a bit more hence the current flow can be messed around. I expect the wiring to be of a sufficient rating so as not to mess upt hings in a properly working circuit.
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Old 13th January 2009, 15:43   #50
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i rev the engine while rolling up the windows. im still not convinced its the alternator. it runs 2 amps and a lot of speakers effectively. why would it cry for a small power window motor??
That would only be when your car is in motion, when you are waiting on a red light you would notice that your head lights will go considerably dim, and again when you are back in motion the lights would pick up and work normally.

A quick test that can be performed here is, with out switching on the engine insert a CD and see if your HU can read it or not, if it cannot read then definitely its a alternator and in turn the battery and if it reads the CD then you may have look for specialized mechanic on the same

Becuse what i share is just my personal hands on experince with the car
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Old 13th January 2009, 16:56   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
here's whats happening in my car now.
the passenger power window's still problematic. but the problem is different. the window goes up fine with the button on the passengers side, but the moment i start using the button on the drivers side, it becomes horribly slow and just stops.
so i don't blame the rubber for it. whats happening?
It is the same with me. This is certainly a wiring issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubby View Post
I think your alternator is not doing its job, even i had the same issue, got alternator repaired it worked fine for a few days and the problem again came back. i.e. the alternator again started to malfunction.

I have a new alternator & still have the same problem. Yes, revving helps a little, maybe 10%, thats it.
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Old 18th March 2009, 12:19   #52
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I too have been having this problem for a long time now.

A guy on orkut told me he fixed this by putting telco relays for the window switches.According to him the problem is with the wiring-its not able to take the load but the motors if given sufficient power are fuly capable of doing the job.
Here is how it is to be done(as it was told to me)
get direct connections from the battery and conect to PW motor through relay,one each for going up and down.the PW switch is the pilot for the relay which gives additional power to the motors.

I asked autoteam guys in Cochin,but they say its not possible
My mechanic at KarTech in Edappally says he has done it for high powered headlamps but is not confident about his ability to do it to the PW.

Please check this option out and if you know any place in Cochin where it can be done please please do tell me about it.
the guy who gave me this info was from coimbatore,he said it cost him 400 per window and is working fine for past 6 months.I want to try this on one window, and if it works...Heaven(Its embarassing when guests are in the car an windows get stuck,im sure most of you would have experienced that)
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Old 18th March 2009, 16:50   #53
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The problem is with the rubber which gets hard after some time, I experienced the same on NHC and lubricated it with left over engine oil, I mean the rubber portion, and the problem was gone.
What is the name / brand of the Silicon Lubrication Spray being mentioned in the post above.??
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Old 19th March 2009, 00:26   #54
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There are good products available from 3M, however availability is an issue. They have a 'Window Channel dresser & lubricant' as well as a dry and wet silicone lubricant.

Here's the link 3M India: Window Channel Lubricant

I must admit never tried it, but would to be interested to buy this product.
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Old 19th March 2009, 02:17   #55
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Cool Esteem Power Window Problem.

When your Esteem power windows start malfunctioning, do the following:

1. Clean the rubber runners and the edges of the glass with mild soap/car shampoo and water.
2. Do not use mineral oil on the rubber runners. Mineral oil degrades rubber.
3. Occasional use of WD40, Zorrik-88, Silicon spray is ok.
4. Check for bunching up of the rubber runner at the weather strip level at the front windows which happens when the glass moves up.
5. A deformed runner has to be replaced, but an alternative modification is what I have done for the front side windows of both my Esteems within the first few weeks of purchase. I got the front bunched up piece cut off at the weather strip level and replaced the front lower runner with a (cheaper) piece of a Maruti 800 window runner. Never had a problem since !
6. When a power window slows down, never hold and pull the glass up. It dislodges the window glass from its insertion in the scissor mechanism.
7. In stead, ask someone else to press the window up button and hold it there while from the outside use gentle but firm pressure to push the glass inwards and upwards with the palms of both your hands, increasing the pressure as required at the end.
8. If you plan to lower the window later, do not push it up till the very end.
9. Rear windows usually slow down or fail more often. They are used lesser than the front. Carefully check the wire harness as it leaves the B pillar and enters the inside of the door near the lower hinge.A very common problem is shearing of the wires as they get pinched with repeated rear door use. This design defect is a Maruti problem across many models. When a power window fails completely, one of the wires is usually cut.
10. I have never changed a power window motor in over ten years.
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Old 19th March 2009, 09:26   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Sumit Bhatti View Post
When your Esteem power windows start malfunctioning, do the following:

1. Clean the rubber runners and the edges of the glass with mild soap/car shampoo and water.
2. Do not use mineral oil on the rubber runners. Mineral oil degrades rubber.
3. Occasional use of WD40, Zorrik-88, Silicon spray is ok.
4. Check for bunching up of the rubber runner at the weather strip level at the front windows which happens when the glass moves up.
5. A deformed runner has to be replaced, but an alternative modification is what I have done for the front side windows of both my Esteems within the first few weeks of purchase. I got the front bunched up piece cut off at the weather strip level and replaced the front lower runner with a (cheaper) piece of a Maruti 800 window runner. Never had a problem since !
6. When a power window slows down, never hold and pull the glass up. It dislodges the window glass from its insertion in the scissor mechanism.
7. In stead, ask someone else to press the window up button and hold it there while from the outside use gentle but firm pressure to push the glass inwards and upwards with the palms of both your hands, increasing the pressure as required at the end.
8. If you plan to lower the window later, do not push it up till the very end.
9. Rear windows usually slow down or fail more often. They are used lesser than the front. Carefully check the wire harness as it leaves the B pillar and enters the inside of the door near the lower hinge.A very common problem is shearing of the wires as they get pinched with repeated rear door use. This design defect is a Maruti problem across many models. When a power window fails completely, one of the wires is usually cut.
10. I have never changed a power window motor in over ten years.
Thanks for this detailed info Doc. Some I have already tried, will try the others on my Esteem.

Even I feel the left power window issue has something to do with wrong wiring design. Something to do with the length or thickness of the wiring used. I say this because, when I use the power window switch on the left door, I have a better success rate of the window going up (albeit very slowly). Revving the engine to produce more current also helps. I have gotten into the habit of raising my left window a few seconds before I reach my destination to avoid the revving .

Last edited by S@~+#0$# : 19th March 2009 at 09:28.
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Old 19th March 2009, 09:32   #57
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Hi Guys,


Would suggest the following.

1> Check if rubber channels are ok as in not torn or come unstuck from the metal sliders.
2> Tighten all bolts of the scissor mechanism if loose and lubricate generously using grease and not oil.
3> Get winder motor checked. It is easily serviceable.

Once done use Graphite Powder(commonly found in pencils) in the channels and see the difference.


Viper
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Old 19th March 2009, 09:38   #58
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Originally Posted by S@~+#0$# View Post
Thanks for this detailed info Doc. Some I have already tried, will try the others on my Esteem.

Even I feel the left power window issue has something to do with wrong wiring design. Something to do with the length or thickness of the wiring used. I say this because, when I use the power window switch on the left door, I have a better success rate of the window going up (albeit very slowly). Revving the engine to produce more current also helps. I have gotten into the habit of raising my left window a few seconds before I reach my destination to avoid the revving .
Santhosh, I was just wondering what an extraordinary user name you have and how can one remember a user name of this kind, but when I looked at it carefully its another way of writing Santhosh.

Hats off to you on the kind of creativity displayed.
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Old 19th March 2009, 10:47   #59
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Santhosh, I was just wondering what an extraordinary user name you have and how can one remember a user name of this kind, but when I looked at it carefully its another way of writing Santhosh.

Hats off to you on the kind of creativity displayed.
Thanks Bubby. My username has been discussed several times on the Forum. In one of these discussions, I learnt that this way kind of writing words using special characters is called LEET. More info can be found at leet - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

@Viper: Will try your suggestion. Is Graphite Powder available off the shelf or do we need to crush pencil lead?

Last edited by S@~+#0$# : 19th March 2009 at 10:49.
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Old 19th March 2009, 11:05   #60
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Originally Posted by viper View Post
Hi Guys,


Once done use Graphite Powder(commonly found in pencils) in the channels and see the difference.


Viper
Interesting solution. Will have to try it.
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