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Old 27th February 2009, 21:41   #16
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Originally Posted by Indian1979 View Post

My only problem was that the brakes would shudder when applied above 100.
It was a pulsating feel with the pedal vibrating, the car was not vibrating at all, only the brakes. Although braking fine the shudder was not confidence inspiring at high speeds at all.

.
I have driven an accord on an almost daily basis, 2 years. this car has been company maintained every 5000 kms. So I doubt that there should be any brake problems with it, but around 90-100 kmph, the brake pedal shudders in the same way described by you. I thought this is just the normal functioning of the ABS. There was one instance on a highway where I was driving at around 130 kmph at night. There was a line of cars ahead, at a sufficient distance, they all braked one after another really hard ! I stood on the brakes, violent ABS shudder, realising it wouldnt stop in time, I turned to the left, all the while still braking. Shudder continued, small tyre squeals for split secs, thats all, but the car was comlpetely steerable. This experience is another reason why I thought that this was just the normal functioning of the ABS.
I could be wrong obviously.. other Accord owners?
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Old 27th February 2009, 22:00   #17
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Same thing happened to me in my Accord. We were ripping around at high speeds (150+) around an empty road and when we stopped, there was that foul smell from the tires. We got out and saw that the wheels (all four of them) were orange-red, and we weren't really sure what to do. Luckily, we didn't notice any flame. We just sat by the side and after a while they became normal.

It's happened about 10-15 times since that day.
This is not normal. My guess is the brake calipers are stuck and dragging the pads on the discs. Please get this checked asap.

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Originally Posted by overboost! View Post
I have driven an accord on an almost daily basis, 2 years. this car has been company maintained every 5000 kms. So I doubt that there should be any brake problems with it, but around 90-100 kmph, the brake pedal shudders in the same way described by you. I thought this is just the normal functioning of the ABS. There was one instance on a highway where I was driving at around 130 kmph at night. There was a line of cars ahead, at a sufficient distance, they all braked one after another really hard ! I stood on the brakes, violent ABS shudder, realising it wouldnt stop in time, I turned to the left, all the while still braking. Shudder continued, small tyre squeals for split secs, thats all, but the car was comlpetely steerable. This experience is another reason why I thought that this was just the normal functioning of the ABS.
I could be wrong obviously.. other Accord owners?
Did the ABS light come on when you braked hard at 130 kmph. The tire squeals means that the ABS did kick in.

If brake shudders without the ABS light then its not ABS kicking in. I am guessing at 90 - 100 kmph the ABS light does not come on and if it does then you should get it checked ABS doesn't kick in at normal braking.

This is not an Accord issue. it's an issue with all brake discs over a period of time if there is uneven layer of brake pad deposits. Google " brake pedal shudders under heavy braking / high speeds". It should give you a good idea.

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Last edited by Jaggu : 27th February 2009 at 23:14. Reason: back to back posts
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Old 27th February 2009, 22:15   #18
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Originally Posted by f450 View Post
Same thing happened to me in my Accord. We were ripping around at high speeds (150+) around an empty road and when we stopped, there was that foul smell from the tires. We got out and saw that the wheels (all four of them) were orange-red, and we weren't really sure what to do. Luckily, we didn't notice any flame. We just sat by the side and after a while they became normal.

It's happened about 10-15 times since that day.
Are you sure you didnt paint them before leaving. LOL.

But is that really possible...?? WHEELS going hot red..??? Unless some friction against them.
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Originally Posted by Indian1979 View Post
We wait 45 minutes to let the brakes cool down completely, after that very very apprehensively took it back on the highway, first applied them slowly at 60kmph - fine. Braked at 80 kmph - fine. Braked at 100 kmph - fine. Braked at 120 - PERFECT!!!
After a smokin set of brakes and some fire.. you FIRST tried to apply them at 60KPH you should have tried at 5kph first. Like someone mentioned your brake fluid could boil and brakes not apply.
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Old 27th February 2009, 23:06   #19
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Are you sure you didnt paint them before leaving. LOL.

But is that really possible...?? WHEELS going hot red..??? Unless some friction against them.
Wheels meaning the brake calipers (or whatever they're called).

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Originally Posted by overboost! View Post
I have driven an accord on an almost daily basis, 2 years. this car has been company maintained every 5000 kms. So I doubt that there should be any brake problems with it, but around 90-100 kmph, the brake pedal shudders in the same way described by you. I thought this is just the normal functioning of the ABS. There was one instance on a highway where I was driving at around 130 kmph at night. There was a line of cars ahead, at a sufficient distance, they all braked one after another really hard ! I stood on the brakes, violent ABS shudder, realising it wouldnt stop in time, I turned to the left, all the while still braking. Shudder continued, small tyre squeals for split secs, thats all, but the car was comlpetely steerable. This experience is another reason why I thought that this was just the normal functioning of the ABS.
I could be wrong obviously.. other Accord owners?
I've had that happen to me on quite a few occasions. The brake pedal feels like ur jamming it again and again, but ur actually not. And yeah, the car has a hard time stopping when that happens. It usually happens at high speeds, and whenever I feel that happen on a narrow road, I mentally prepare myself for an accident. :(

My advice is to let go of the brakes, steer clear and then brake again. Because when ABS kicks in, you can feel the car drifting and you feel like you've lost control

Last edited by Rehaan : 28th February 2009 at 14:26. Reason: Posts merged. Please use the MULTIQUOTE button instead of making multiple consecutive posts in the same thread. Thanks.
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Old 27th February 2009, 23:23   #20
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The pedal vibration is quite unnerving at those speeds if one is not aware that its the ABS, and has a tendancy to release the brake pedal. But I was luckily in the know about it, so didnt need to let go of brakes. Infact I was confident that ABS is doing its work so didnt have to leave brakes to steer. Staying on the pedal, i found that the braking was actually quite strong.

(Dont mean to make this thread about my incident, just feel its relevant to the topic.)
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Old 28th February 2009, 00:09   #21
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IMHO your car needs a complete brake overhaul, clean up of caliper pins, lubricating them properly and a thorough blead of the hydrolics. The calipers were wrongly set and jamming up, heating up and hence the brake fade.

I had faced a similar issue on an esteem which was bought second hand with very low mileage (2000 kms in 4 years), the front brakes jammed up and started burning and virtually had to limp 150 kms middle of the night to get back home.

How much had the accord done when you picked her up? My guess the brakes were never attended to by previous owner, who hasnt pushed the car too much.
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Old 28th February 2009, 01:45   #22
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IMHO your car needs a complete brake overhaul, clean up of caliper pins, lubricating them properly and a thorough blead of the hydrolics. The calipers were wrongly set and jamming up, heating up and hence the brake fade. I had bled them at the time of resurfacing the discs and putting new brake pads and put in ATE SL brake fluid. This incident was not caused by a problem with the car it was caused by a problem between the steering wheel and the driver seat.


How much had the accord done when you picked her up? My guess the brakes were never attended to by previous owner, who hasnt pushed the car too much.
49,000 kms, it was owned by Novartis and completely service was done at A.S.S. with a completely documented service manual.

After this incident I have driven over 2500 kms on the car to date and the brakes are perfect.


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Last edited by Rehaan : 28th February 2009 at 14:29. Reason: Please see note in post.
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Old 28th February 2009, 13:18   #23
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I drove around some mountain roads in a 2 year old rental car. I was coming up on a turn and suddenly noticed my brakes fading...FAST!

I put the automatic transmission into a lower gear, and used the hand-brake as much as I could before the turn, and I was able to take the turn.

When I stopped - there was smoke bellowing out of all 4 tires and I realized the brakes were cooked! However the best thing to do when your brakes are overheating is to KEEP DRIVING slowly to help cool them down. I took it on a slow 30mph, tested the brakes to make sure they were ok and headed back.

When your brakes overheat DO NOT STOP just to let them cool down. The brake rotor will cool unevenly and this is the main reason for cracked rotors.
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Old 28th February 2009, 13:44   #24
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I drove around some mountain roads in a 2 year old rental car. I was coming up on a turn and suddenly noticed my brakes fading...FAST!
That reminds me of the memorable thread by dolphin!

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/street...ed-horror.html (Pleasure Trip turned Horror)
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Old 2nd March 2009, 21:12   #25
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Originally Posted by Indian1979 View Post

Did the ABS light come on when you braked hard at 130 kmph. The tire squeals means that the ABS did kick in.

If brake shudders without the ABS light then its not ABS kicking in. I am guessing at 90 - 100 kmph the ABS light does not come on and if it does then you should get it checked ABS doesn't kick in at normal braking.
There was brake squeal in quick succession on/off.
Honestly, i'm not sure about the ABS light, eyes were glued to the road at the moment , but other wise, normal driving under 100 (i guess) no ABS light with minor shudder. Slow driving, no light and no shudder. So, i guess its all good
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Old 4th March 2009, 13:37   #26
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It might just be an Accord issue. I had a similar experience 3 years back on the same car 2.3 VTiL
After some hard braking there front brake pads were fuming with smoke but the problem went away on it's own. During my second set of brake pads, i didnt come across anything like it.
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Old 23rd June 2013, 09:53   #27
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Default Re: Brakes Catch Fire / Brake Bed in procedure / Brake Shudder : Solved

New break pads and rotors whouold always be cleaned with a break/clutch cleaning sollution. Most pad manufacturers leave some sort of deposit on the pads to avoid corosion on the way to the store. This is the deposit that caught fire due to the kinetic energy being converted to heat due to the breaking. I think you should be fine now.
But in the future do ensure that all break/ clutch parts are cleaned thoroughly with a break/clutch cleaner. These are available from 3m and other companies in the aerosol form.
cheers
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Old 30th September 2013, 16:07   #28
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Default Re: Brakes Catch Fire / Brake Bed in procedure / Brake Shudder : Solved

Digging up this old thread again. For the last couple of months, my car (Ritz) has developed a strange braking problem. Whenever I press the brakes (speeds above 30 KM), the brakes shudder a lot. On speeds above 80 KM, breaking and consequent shuddering is too much. I took my car to Maruti ASS for checkup, but my experience is not good. They did not even bother to check brake pads. MASS is only interested in 5 , 10 point checkups / paid services only. So my query is : What may be the reason behind this shudder? And where in Bangalore can I get this checked properly?
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Old 30th September 2013, 16:23   #29
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Default Re: Brakes Catch Fire / Brake Bed in procedure / Brake Shudder : Solved

I somehow have never ever compromised on the braking even in a car that is often referred to as "non-highway" car called WagonR.

Shuddering during braking always hinted at bent/uneven rotor discs and so far in around 2,11,000 kms of driving the same car on City and highways at good speeds, I have faced the issue with shuddering (while braking only) above 100kmph only once and I duly got the rotor replaced and the issue never resurfaced again.

The idea of skinning a few mm of metal from the Discs never convinced me and I have always preferred replacing it right than looking for a workaround for something as primary as Brakes.

As a matter of fact, I have also pro-actively replaced pads even though they have enough life left only because I realized that the pads have become harder and efficiency has dropped and no amount of emery rubbing will make it better.

The ASC folks always look at the pad wear indicator and convince me to retain it for another 10,000 kms but I have always asked them to replace.

Last edited by paragsachania : 30th September 2013 at 16:24.
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Old 30th September 2013, 16:33   #30
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Default Re: Brakes Catch Fire / Brake Bed in procedure / Brake Shudder : Solved

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I somehow have never ever compromised on the braking even in a car that is often referred to as "non-highway" car called WagonR.

Shuddering during braking always hinted at bent/uneven rotor discs and so far in around 2,11,000 kms of driving the same car on City and highways at good speeds, I have faced the issue with shuddering (while braking only) above 100kmph only once and I duly got the rotor replaced and the issue never resurfaced again.

The idea of skinning a few mm of metal from the Discs never convinced me and I have always preferred replacing it right than looking for a workaround for something as primary as Brakes.

As a matter of fact, I have also pro-actively replaced pads even though they have enough life left only because I realized that the pads have become harder and efficiency has dropped and no amount of emery rubbing will make it better.

The ASC folks always look at the pad wear indicator and convince me to retain it for another 10,000 kms but I have always asked them to replace.
By bent rotor disc, do you imply the front disc brakes? (The rear are drum type). Did you change them in Bangalore? How much did it cost? Sorry I have asked so many questions.
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