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Old 12th August 2014, 20:19   #811
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer View Post
Thanks deepak, I dont hve the part number, ill try to find it on Google. Do MB dealerships sell the part over the counter. .or would I have to take ot there for service? If so I am sure they will charge me a bomb!
Which pipe is this, describe me the location, will give you the part number
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Old 12th August 2014, 22:22   #812
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Which pipe is this, describe me the location, will give you the part number
This is the pipe that connects the metal hydraulic line from the clutch master cyl to the slave cylinder on the bell housing. The perpendicular end goes into the slave cylinder housing and the other end goes into the solid line. Really appreciate the help!
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Old 13th August 2014, 12:18   #813
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

MB Part A1244304729

One end goes to Brake Booster or the big round thing
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Old 13th August 2014, 14:11   #814
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Yep, you probably need new tyres. Did your car spend a lot of time standing? That would explain why the tyres have developed flat spots, causing the bumpy ride.
I got a set of 4 michelin xm2 205/65/R15 fitted on monday. The car feels a lot better than before. The tyre noise is non existent and the ride, handling and braking is just superb. got them for Rs.6500 each with alignment and balancing thrown in for free. I wanted to wait for a better deal but one of my tyres burst open that morning and spare tyre also burst the previous week. so had to get it at the quoted price and no other dealer in town had that size in stock.

An odd question for you guys. so as i was saying earlier i need to get the FIP(fuel injection pump) serviced. If i do not start the car for a couple of days, I was told to jumpstart the car by the SA. Come this monday, i came home from a holiday and tried to start the car, it would not start. So as told by the SA, i asked a local mechanic to get a battery and jumper cables. The car started when jumpstarted, i had to press down both the brake and accelerator pedal for the car to start or else it just would not start. Do any of you guys know the reason for car to be jumpstarted (which is done when battery is low) when the problem is with the fuel pump ?

every time i have to start the car, the engine cranks but does not start. the engine starts on 3 or 4th try but sometimes on the first try. Every time i have to keep both the accelerator and brake pedals pressed.
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Old 13th August 2014, 15:22   #815
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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I got a set of 4 michelin xm2 205/65/R15 fitted on monday. The car feels a lot better than before. The tyre noise is non existent and the ride, handling and braking is just superb. got them for Rs.6500 each with alignment and balancing thrown in for free. I wanted to wait for a better deal but one of my tyres burst open that morning and spare tyre also burst the previous week. so had to get it at the quoted price and no other dealer in town had that size in stock.

An odd question for you guys. so as i was saying earlier i need to get the FIP(fuel injection pump) serviced. If i do not start the car for a couple of days, I was told to jumpstart the car by the SA. Come this monday, i came home from a holiday and tried to start the car, it would not start. So as told by the SA, i asked a local mechanic to get a battery and jumper cables. The car started when jumpstarted, i had to press down both the brake and accelerator pedal for the car to start or else it just would not start. Do any of you guys know the reason for car to be jumpstarted (which is done when battery is low) when the problem is with the fuel pump ?

every time i have to start the car, the engine cranks but does not start. the engine starts on 3 or 4th try but sometimes on the first try. Every time i have to keep both the accelerator and brake pedals pressed.
AFAIK, jump starting a 124 Kills the OVP relay.
You are not supposed to do that.
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Old 13th August 2014, 15:32   #816
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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AFAIK, jump starting a 124 Kills the OVP relay.
You are not supposed to do that.
This is the first time i am hearing that. I was told to jumpstart the car by the Service Advisor at the Mercedes Workshop. I did not see any problems with the OVP relay until now, hopefully it stays that way.
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Old 13th August 2014, 15:41   #817
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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This is the first time i am hearing that. I was told to jumpstart the car by the Service Advisor at the Mercedes Workshop. I did not see any problems with the OVP relay until now, hopefully it stays that way.
Yeah;it blows out at times;when the car is jump started.
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Old 13th August 2014, 17:22   #818
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Originally Posted by DeepakMenon View Post
MB Part A1244304729

One end goes to Brake Booster or the big round thing
No thats not the one. This has nothing to do with brake booster. Let me try to describe the circuit

Clutch master --- metal hydraulic line from clutch master all the way to the bottom of the car ending one foot before the slave cylinder ----"the rubber hose in question" ----slave cylinder.

Ill try to get a pic of the existing installation if this is not clear.
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Old 13th August 2014, 20:11   #819
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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Originally Posted by abhiram7912 View Post
This is the first time i am hearing that. I was told to jumpstart the car by the Service Advisor at the Mercedes Workshop. I did not see any problems with the OVP relay until now, hopefully it stays that way.
Akshay is right about the OVP. Service advisor probably doesn't know enough about the 124 to understand. Why don't you check your OVP relay? Take it out, examine the fuse, and see if there is corrosion around it. Also shake the OVP vigorously and keep an ear out for a small rattle from inside.

As for your tyres, you've gone for a slight upsize. So the ride will be better, but the handling worse. The correct upside on stock rims is 205/60/15, not 65. Most sellers have the 65 in stock because that's the Innova tyre size.

Also, see this. Your engine would be the OM605, I think.
http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html
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Old 13th August 2014, 21:22   #820
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

Akshay is right about the OVP. Service advisor probably doesn't know enough about the 124 to understand. Why don't you check your OVP relay? Take it out, examine the fuse, and see if there is corrosion around it. Also shake the OVP vigorously and keep an ear out for a small rattle from inside.

Will take a look at it tomorrow. But the OVP was checked by the Mercedes roadside assist (IIRC he just checked the voltage) yesterday just to make sure it was alright since i am having problems with the combination switch.

As for your tyres, you've gone for a slight upsize. So the ride will be better, but the handling worse. The correct upside on stock rims is 205/60/15, not 65. Most sellers have the 65 in stock because that's the Innova tyre size.

I swear i saw someone here upsized to that size and went with that. Well whats done is done,completed about 150 kms the handling is not so bad, but will keep it in mind.
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Old 13th August 2014, 22:30   #821
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Yeah;it blows out at times;when the car is jump started.
Doesn't make sense to me...unless the battery is so finished that it doesnt offer any capacitative resistance to any probable noise or eddy currents from the other cars alternator. Is there any logical explanation for this?

Also can someone elaborate why brake needs to be pressed for a diesel OM to start and what why jump start for a mech diesel fuel pump issue?

Last edited by sportz_kruzer : 13th August 2014 at 22:32.
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Old 13th August 2014, 23:33   #822
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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Also can someone elaborate why brake needs to be pressed for a diesel OM to start and what why jump start for a mech diesel fuel pump issue?
about the brake being pressed to start i am thinking its mostly coincidence, i normally keep my foot on the brake pedal as a habit (drove automatics for nearly 4 years, before coming to manuals) when i start a car. but i am having to keep the accelerator pedal pressed, some times it starts the first time other times it may take more tries to get the engine to start.
I am sorry the whole thing is confusing. i should have explained it better in the first place.

Thats what confuses me the most. I now had to jump start the car 2-3 times, every time i was at a different location and i asked the mechanics they too are confused about it.

Now from what little i understood from what i have seen, i will try to explain whats happening or whats not happening. Please correct me if i am wrong. In the attached picture, the 1 is pointing at a pipe that brings diesel into the can (number 2 in the picture) something something happens and the engine starts. Now the problem is there is no diesel coming into that can(#2) so the engine is not starting. but even if fuel is present in the can the car is not starting. But if the problem is with the fuel pump, why does the car start when i jump start it, that too on the first try ?

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Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group-dsc_0248.jpg  

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Old 14th August 2014, 00:15   #823
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer View Post
Doesn't make sense to me...unless the battery is so finished that it doesnt offer any capacitative resistance to any probable noise or eddy currents from the other cars alternator. Is there any logical explanation for this?

Also can someone elaborate why brake needs to be pressed for a diesel OM to start and what why jump start for a mech diesel fuel pump issue?
OVP is short for over voltage protection. A dead battery still has some power, add to that a fully charged battery. Simple math.

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Originally Posted by abhiram7912 View Post
about the brake being pressed to start i am thinking its mostly coincidence, i normally keep my foot on the brake pedal as a habit (drove automatics for nearly 4 years, before coming to manuals) when i start a car. but i am having to keep the accelerator pedal pressed, some times it starts the first time other times it may take more tries to get the engine to start.
I am sorry the whole thing is confusing. i should have explained it better in the first place.

Thats what confuses me the most. I now had to jump start the car 2-3 times, every time i was at a different location and i asked the mechanics they too are confused about it.

Now from what little i understood from what i have seen, i will try to explain whats happening or whats not happening. Please correct me if i am wrong. In the attached picture, the 1 is pointing at a pipe that brings diesel into the can (number 2 in the picture) something something happens and the engine starts. Now the problem is there is no diesel coming into that can(#2) so the engine is not starting. but even if fuel is present in the can the car is not starting. But if the problem is with the fuel pump, why does the car start when i jump start it, that too on the first try ?

Picture source: team-bhp
Why don't you get your fuel lines checked? There is some sort of diesel pump which has o-rings. They might need attention. Apart from that, all the diesel lines and connections have o-rings that need replacement from time to time. It could be a simple air leak that is causing all your problems.

Does the car switch off immediately when you turn the key or does it take a few seconds? That could indicate an issue with the shut off nozzle, and the solenoid.

EDIT That can is the diesel filter. The fuel passes through this, and all the surrounding pipes are usually the first cause of problems with this car. Do you see any signs of leaking diesel? Check around the engine mount which is visible below this area.

Last edited by Viraat13 : 14th August 2014 at 00:18.
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Old 14th August 2014, 00:34   #824
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How old is the battery? The voltage drop happening when the starter motor turns (as it consumes loads of current) might be preventing ur glow plugs and other relays (OVP?) From functioning properly thus preventing it from starting. (it drops to 9.8v when cranking on my cielo) Which might be why things work smoothly when you add another battery in parallel (jump start). So essentially by jump starting ur doubling the current at same voltage (12v) thus reducing voltage drop under load when cranking thus leaving good enough power for the electronics to work. (Wait a minute! ...does this car have an ecu? Its not a common rail or aCDI right...anyways..)

So check ur battery condition, terminals any resistance or drop betwen the terminal and the wire. Next time you want to jump start. .try replacing the battery with the jump start batt and see if there s any change.

You can check voltage drop using a multimeter

The problem doesn't seem mechanical as ur car other wise runs fine (I assume) maybe ur starter motor is eating all the power thus preventing a diesel primer pump from efficiently engaging.

If its a case of voltage drop..corroded fuses and bad relays will exaggerate the issue. Anyways try step by step
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Old 14th August 2014, 08:26   #825
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Default Re: Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

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Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer View Post
Doesn't make sense to me...unless the battery is so finished that it doesnt offer any capacitative resistance to any probable noise or eddy currents from the other cars alternator. Is there any logical explanation for this?

Also can someone elaborate why brake needs to be pressed for a diesel OM to start and what why jump start for a mech diesel fuel pump issue?
i have just got a E220 about 3 weeks ago,so still learning.
OVP is basically overvoltage protection relay,so when jump starting due to sudden current surge,it may blow.
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