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Old 13th April 2009, 10:14   #16
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I think the wire from alternator to battery is not so good. Get some good 16-25 mmsq wire and terminate with good quality thimbles. It will help you a lot. And if poosible get a voltmeter installed in your car to check what is the idle voltage you are getting. If it is below 13 volts then you need to remove something or another.

I have installed one in my car here take a look...

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Old 13th April 2009, 11:21   #17
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After looking at those pics , a word of caution . Please be careful with the wiring . You might end up with a disaster . Most of the wires are loosely tied and a small short circuit .. you know what will happen .
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Old 13th April 2009, 11:33   #18
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holy moly what is this,you need some good wire and thimbles as lbm suggested be careful
with all this.
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Old 13th April 2009, 11:41   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirAlec View Post
Current does matter dude!
here is a simple check. If you connect Eight 1.5 vol AA cell in series and make a 12 volt will it crank the engine.

Or do just the opposite try to charge your camera battery (1.5AA x 8) with those bulky car jump charger. you will have your answer.
@ SirAlec: That's warped logic. A 70 amp alternator may damage the M800 battery due to a comparatively high rate of charge, so I have recommended a battery upgrade. If a 70 amp alt can fry the 800's ECU, it'll fry the ECUs of every other car it's fitted in.

The car jump charger WILL properly charge 160 penlight cells together - 1.5v AA 2200 mAH x 8 (in series) x 20 (in parallel) (= 44000 mAH = 44 AH). Might even start the car...
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Old 13th April 2009, 12:42   #20
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Ok .All Wires at battery terminal are crimped and have fuse block online already .Also the battery to alternator wire is kalinga make and 10 sqmm .This i got installed in parallel to existing OEM one.
@ Low_bass_maker ; I might be intersted in something like this .Could you tell me what is the price and where i can get it.
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Old 13th April 2009, 13:21   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
I think the wire from alternator to battery is not so good. Get some good 16-25 mmsq wire and terminate with good quality thimbles. It will help you a lot. And if poosible get a voltmeter installed in your car to check what is the idle voltage you are getting. If it is below 13 volts then you need to remove something or another.

I have installed one in my car here take a look...

Attachment 124503

Bro more details on this please..it may be off topic here but can you atleast PM me
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Old 13th April 2009, 17:29   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
@ SirAlec: That's warped logic. A 70 amp alternator may damage the M800 battery due to a comparatively high rate of charge, so I have recommended a battery upgrade. If a 70 amp alt can fry the 800's ECU, it'll fry the ECUs of every other car it's fitted in.

The car jump charger WILL properly charge 160 penlight cells together - 1.5v AA 2200 mAH x 8 (in series) x 20 (in parallel) (= 44000 mAH = 44 AH). Might even start the car...

its off topic but yes! ECU input voltage is regulated and hence rated accordingly with recomended battery current. Otherwise ECU would have been standard in all cars.

As far as second point is concerned. you answered your query yourself. Hence QED! current does matter (when you arrived at 44ah through combo of series and parallel.)
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Old 13th April 2009, 17:42   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirAlec View Post
you answered your query yourself. Hence QED! current does matter (when you arrived at 44ah through combo of series and parallel.)
SirAlec, I didn't post any query. I fully understand my auto electrics. Let's stop this out-of-context argument
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Old 13th April 2009, 17:55   #24
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Quote:
A 70 amp alternator may damage the M800 battery due to a comparatively high rate of charge, so I have recommended a battery upgrade.
Not really. Modern day alternators come equipped with an electronic regulator to control the charging current. Lead Acid batteries require constant volt charging as against NiCad batteries which need constant current charging. What this means is that no matter what the capacity of your alternator (within reason of course) is , it will deliver enough current to keep the batteries at the nominal voltage. Actually, having a higher capacity alternator allows you to have higher current consuming gadgets in the car. The car battery can handle the 70 A easily. Mind you this current will be supplied to the battery only after starting to compensate for the discharge of the starting motor. Incidentally the battery has to supply literally hundreds of amperes (for a fraction of a second) to the starting motor. This is the reason why a starting motor is supplied with a short thick cable.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ADMINI%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ADMINI%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 13th April 2009, 18:05   #25
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A clarification:

A 70 amp alternator may damage the M800 battery due to a comparatively high rate of charge if charging the battery from a drained state, so I have recommended a battery upgrade.
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Old 13th April 2009, 20:44   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
A clarification:

A 70 amp alternator may damage the M800 battery due to a comparatively high rate of charge if charging the battery from a drained state, so I have recommended a battery upgrade.
I no longer jump start any of my cars. I believe jump starting and charging a dead battery with any alternator current can damage a battery. I believe the correct way to jump-start a car is to NOT jump start it. Buy a battery charger, hook it up to the car for a few hours. If the battery is completely dead you may have to charge it overnight. (Keep in mind that if the battery 0-load voltage is below 10V it may need some desulphation and this can take an extra 4-5 hours)

The typical max charge rate for the average (~55AH) battery is ~7A. Sure you can hook it up to a 40+ amp alternator and charge it up in 30 minutes but this is something like forcing yourself to eat your lunch in 15 seconds flat!

Last edited by Atlblkz06 : 13th April 2009 at 20:45.
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Old 13th April 2009, 22:19   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlblkz06 View Post
I believe jump starting and charging a dead battery with any alternator current can damage a battery.
...this is something like forcing yourself to eat your lunch in 15 seconds flat!
So true! Glad you mentioned this simile.
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Old 13th April 2009, 22:59   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlblkz06 View Post
I believe jump starting and charging a dead battery with any alternator current can damage a battery.
Also important to remember that an alternator is designed to maintain a charged battery and not to charge a dead battery. This is other than its normal duty to supply power to the car's electrical components.

When charging a dead battery, there are chances of damaging the alternator stator windings and the regulator/rectifier. Not something I'd advise. Alternators and/or replacement parts are expensive in case of most cars.

Take out the batt and give it to a dealer for a test and charge. Most give you a service battery so your car doesnt need to be off the road.

Rgds,

Last edited by R2D2 : 13th April 2009 at 23:02.
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Old 13th April 2009, 23:11   #29
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Well i ask your opinion as to which will be a good fitment alternator for 800 with least modifications .I have already changed it from stock M800 to a Zen .But i believe 45 Amps alternator of Zen are turning to be insufficient under full load .
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Old 13th April 2009, 23:33   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trust_In_Thrust View Post
Well i ask your opinion as to which will be a good fitment alternator for 800 with least modifications .I have already changed it from stock M800 to a Zen .But i believe 45 Amps alternator of Zen are turning to be insufficient under full load .
You alternator is sufficient. But the wire from the alternator to the battery looks like the weak link. I would suggest to get a better one for that place.
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