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Old 10th April 2009, 14:18   #1
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Default Am I Electrically overloading My Maruti 800 ?

Hello Bhpians !
I just wanted to ask you opinon regarding only about electrical or any solution you may have regarding this , so i request please stick to the core topic.
Problem faced
1.) The wire suplying current from Alternator to battery burns up oncein 4 months regularly.
2.) Also i recently changed two Sanden 6 inch fans doing duty on the condensor at the back with a tata Indica Radiator Fan BAER make inoticed my headlights dimmed a bit when switching on AC.

As the topic says this is the current load i have ,
Load :
1.) Pioneer DEH 5850MP , Only Using RCA O/P's .
2.) Two Aplnie Amps , One is 1200 Watts 4 Channel (4 Ohms Stable), Second is Alpnie two channel 800 Watts(4 Ohms Stable)
3.)On the Four 1200 Watts i run 4 , 6*9 Pioneer 6992 Speakers at Rear
And the Second Channel Drives Two Pioneer 30 Watt RMS Speaker Set (4 Speakers at Front)
4.)The Second 800 Watts 2 Channel drives 306 DVC .
5.)I have a relay driving 90/100 pair of headlights upfront.
6.) All other tails lights , indicators , AC Blower motor(3 Speed) are standard.
7.)The clearance lights on bumper are 25 watts each.
8.) A Sanden AC Compressor SD 507 model , A radiator fan (the bigger one for maruti 800 from Denso).
9.) A Indica radiator fan doing duty on the condensor installed at the rear .I have two condensors one upfront and other at the rear.
10.) A CNG Kit .
11.) A CrossLink wheel C.Lock doing duty nick free for 5+ years except for remote battery replacement.

This is the source i have ,
1.) A Zen alternator with M800 pulley.
2.) AC Delco batter giving me 35 Amp/hr
3.) 145/80 Tyres .(This maeks the Rms that engine sees low as i believe)

A note here the alternator works perfectly ( 13.75-14.00 Volts maintained )
But when i switch on everthing it except AC it stays up there considerably.
But with Ac also on .It dives to 12.5 Volts.
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Old 10th April 2009, 20:12   #2
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Yes , the electricals that you have described will definitely overload the car in the nights . With the head lights on , the A/C , music system ,the current draw will be more .

Does the battery drain in the nights at low speeds ? When you drive in the nights at low speeds , if the power consumed is more than the power that the alternator can generate , you will have cranking issues . The car battery might get discharged as the alternator cannot supply more power that what is required .

If the battery does not get discharged in the nights you can safely assume that the power consumption is lesser than the power produced . The wire burnout might be caused by something else ,may be a short circuit as well .
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Old 10th April 2009, 21:19   #3
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M800, loaded with all that...

Bachchey ki jaan loge kya??
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Old 10th April 2009, 22:01   #4
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upgrade your all the wire called big 3.this will solve the problem and i doubt that you are putting some extremely extra load on the car electrical.as for the amp that you are using there model # how much power they require in ampere.
and which battery are you using.
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Old 10th April 2009, 22:32   #5
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IIRC, the M800 has a 35 amp alternator, and the Zen has a 45 amp alternator. Your connected load while night driving on high beams adds up to about 45-50 amps without running the ICE.

Add to that the 800's wiring harness, which is not designed to take this kind of load (unless you upgraded it), and you're not in the safest position concerning short circuits.

As gd said, Bachchey ki jaan loge kya??
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Old 10th April 2009, 22:43   #6
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Well the ac has dedicated supply from two relays 200Watts*2 , Headlight has one 200 , Ice has its own.
The point i make here is The complete wiring is stock not cut up in even one place .And all the additions i made the ac, indica radiator fan, Two amps , headlights have their own supply with fuses for s.ckt protection.
I believe the only piece i can change for sure is the power wire from alternator to battery which is still stock even with a different alternator .
So which wire what size would you suggest for the replacement ?
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Old 11th April 2009, 19:49   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trust_In_Thrust View Post
So which wire what size would you suggest for the replacement ?
I'd suggest a 60-70 ampere alternator. The wiring can follow.
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Old 11th April 2009, 22:33   #8
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is it a mpfi model.? and whats with two condenser. all you have needed is a large cooling coil.
please post some images. I am curious about the setup.

standard alternater is 42 amps. so are you sure 70 amps will not fry the system and related wiring, if its a mpi.
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Old 12th April 2009, 00:16   #9
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First I want to see how you have installed the CNG and the subs....
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Old 12th April 2009, 09:36   #10
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Well i checked with a multimeter at full load, voltage at idling across batttery terminals was 11.65 Volts.Even revving the engine couldnot take it beyond 11.80 Volts.Then i checked underful load voltage across negative of battery and positive of alternator itself And surprise , the voltage was 11.95 at idling .And switching of amything took it straight 12.50 Volts .Even by just revving the engine under full load the voltage was 12.27 Volts.
So ran to a electrical shop got a 10 Sq. mm multistrand wire 3.5 mts for Rs. 240 (kalinga make) and got it installed in parallel from alternator to battery and voila 95% problem solved.
Only issue remaining i cannot use everything at night at idling for long (Starts discharging the battery) anywas when i am at idlingi just switch off the main beams and everything is wroking nick free .

@siralec ; I have 1996 M800 std Carburettor with over 3 L 20 kms .
Well i know you are right but i had my own jugdements when i designed the AC .The bigger cooling coils apparently come from National , Superking both of which robbed me using inbuild control for air (as to where it will come out from Blower module top, down , bottom , middle etc.)So i am using a A6 coil now (I know it is the smallest )Then i thought lets get all the heat out of the system by using a bigger condenser so got one 14"*24" used at the rear.Checked temperatures which were not to my liking on condenser.Cooling was great but below 37 degree celcius .So got another condenser imnstalled at the front. And Voila cooling improved appreciably.
Now to keep everthing cooled changed fromt cooling fan to 120Watts motor and on the rear the sanden fans did duty for 6+ year.Then their nearings started making noise so now i have a indica radiator fan installed .
And many friend of mine have siad the cooling is awesome .

&Low_Bass-Maker - It is not a high end system .It is more of what i had got installed around 5 years back .two desi aplnies .OK at that time i didnot have Team Bhp with me so i did not know much.

I will post the pics today at night.
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Old 12th April 2009, 10:44   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirAlec View Post
standard alternater is 42 amps. so are you sure 70 amps will not fry the system and related wiring, if its a mpi.
20 amp or 100 amp, the voltage remains the same. Electrical and electronic equipment can't fry, the wiring can, due to heavy current draw - so appropriate wiring would be required. The car seems to have some modified wiring done. The battery would perhaps also need to be upgraded.
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Old 12th April 2009, 12:20   #12
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Try switching over to accent battery . The terminals are other way around , but the battery does fit into the bay . Alternator might need to be changed as well ,You can go in for a higher ampere alternator .
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Old 12th April 2009, 14:21   #13
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@ss-traveller ; When i switched from stock alternator to zen alternator i had checked that it is not possible to fit anyother alternator without considerable changes or i would have fitted India 70 amps one.
@greatmana2000 ; well the current ACDelco battery is around a year old so i will use this option of fitting in a Hyndai Petrol battery lateron .Although space is in engine bay is a constraint now.It is totally occupied.
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Old 13th April 2009, 00:25   #14
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Ok I know this is not a clean install at all .But with the space constraints i had to be innovative like hammering the Amops on top to get clearance .Wish i had blaupunkt amps they will fit real nicely.
The Woofer with a less than decent sealed box goes where the spare wheel used to be .the amps are bolted to the rear of the seat .The spare wheel between the hatch and cylinder.
Also all the speaker are very securrely held with screws and and two wires each are tied to them on the inside to hold them from flying in case of rear end or any other unlucky incident.
I only wish i could have a decent enclosure for the sub in this space as i want to upgrade the amp for woofer but i need a better enclosure.

Also please notice all this including the CNG stand , the install was done completely by myself including welding etc
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Old 13th April 2009, 01:32   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
20 amp or 100 amp, the voltage remains the same. Electrical and electronic equipment can't fry, the wiring can, due to heavy current draw - so appropriate wiring would be required. The car seems to have some modified wiring done. The battery would perhaps also need to be upgraded.
Current does matter dude! Its not just the voltage that matters. thats simple electonics!
here is a simple check. If you connect Eight 1.5 vol AA cell in series and make a 12 volt will it crank the engine.

Or do just the opposite try to charge your camera battery (1.5AA x 8) with those bulky car jump charger. you will have your answer.
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