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Old 9th July 2009, 11:50   #1
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Arrow Lancer - Overheating issue at idling

My turbo charged lancer (2001, 65k km, about 3 years since FI) seems to be reaching the 70% mark on the temp gauge when driven for around 10km (city driving without ac, spirited/not so spirited).
The strange part, the temp is around the halfway mark till it comes to a standstill and idles for a tad(mostly when I have reached my destination and not experienced it at the signal).

I need to check if this vanishes once I start driving again, but, I tend not to brave driving it when it is around the 70% mark.

Coolant seems to be fine, radiator was flushed about 3k km ago, thermostat valve? not sure if it still exists in my car. But, would it have anything to do with the thermostat valve (happening only when it is idling for atleast 45 secs - 1 min)?

Anyone out here had a similar experience?
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Old 9th July 2009, 11:56   #2
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When you drive, air hits the grill, so you get additional cooling, which goes away once you idle.
So the issue is with the fan. You need a more powerful fan. Also, when your car is idling, is the fan running when temp guage climbs up, if its not there could be some issue with the thermostat
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Old 9th July 2009, 11:58   #3
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Fan is working absolutely fine.
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Old 9th July 2009, 12:11   #4
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Then its an issue with heat dissipation. What about the radiator fins are they clogged.
Since your car is turbocharged its possible that the cooling system cannot cope up with additional heat.
So you may need an extra fan on the outside(the kind older cars put after installing AC)
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Old 9th July 2009, 12:22   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MindSpeeDs View Post
My turbo charged lancer (2001, 65k km, about 3 years since FI) seems to be reaching the 70% mark on the temp gauge when driven for around 10km (city driving without ac, spirited/not so spirited).
The strange part, the temp is around the halfway mark till it comes to a standstill and idles for a tad(mostly when I have reached my destination and not experienced it at the signal).

I need to check if this vanishes once I start driving again, but, I tend not to brave driving it when it is around the 70% mark.

Coolant seems to be fine, radiator was flushed about 3k km ago, thermostat valve? not sure if it still exists in my car. But, would it have anything to do with the thermostat valve (happening only when it is idling for atleast 45 secs - 1 min)?

Anyone out here had a similar experience?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MindSpeeDs View Post
Fan is working absolutely fine.
It only happens when idling ? have tried reving the car when parked? I did not get the 3 yaer since turbocharging part, do you mean to say the it's been heating this way since than or the problem has just started?

The air flow to the radiator is not sufficient when not moving, please check the water pump efficiency. Since the coolant level is not reducing that means the engine is not overheating, so you should try driving it after parking and see, if it reduces.

Last edited by dinar : 9th July 2009 at 12:28.
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Old 9th July 2009, 12:36   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Then its an issue with heat dissipation. What about the radiator fins are they clogged.
Since your car is turbocharged its possible that the cooling system cannot cope up with additional heat.
So you may need an extra fan on the outside(the kind older cars put after installing AC)
It is been turbocharged almost 3 years ago. The radiator fins seem fine too, it flushed, cleaned about 3k km ago. Well, I did install one such fan the initial days of installing the turbo, a small one though due to space constraints (retained the sleeper look). But for the noise it did not seem to make any difference, got rid of it then itself. There is been no such issue till date even with extremely spirited driving.

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Originally Posted by dinar View Post
It only happens when idling ? have tried reving the car when parked? I did not get the 3 yaer since turbocharging part, do you mean to say the it's been heating this way since than or the problem has just started?

I think it the problem with your water pump, and also the flow of air is not sufficient to the radiator. more powerful fan should help.
I got it installed 3 years ago. No! I would not drive with such a problem for 3 years!
I am facing this problem for a few days now when the weather is absolutely awesome and not even in peak summers.
This is the same same that has been functional all this while, seems to be working absolutely fine even now. Water pump? Why only when idling?
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Old 9th July 2009, 13:54   #7
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Water pump is driven by engine rpm. If water pump goes weak, sometimes it will pump fast enough only when the engine speed is high.
So do this.
Idle car till temp starts creeping above half way mark, and then start revving her to 2000rpm or 2500rpm when standstill, if tem guage starts coming down, its an issue with water circulation.

Normally water pump change is recommended around 100000kms
.
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Old 9th July 2009, 14:34   #8
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Sounds like it could be the water pump problem. Will confirm in the evening.
BTW, currently my car idles at around 1400 (cold start, settles at around 1200+ , ac brings it further down to around 1000). This is according to the HKS turbo timer.. the stock meter shows a tad lower rpm.
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Old 9th July 2009, 17:05   #9
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Just one of my past experiences...My Armada temp meter used to reach the red mark within 10-15mins of engine startup and this problem began after I had an engine overhaul.
Got everything changed and serviced that was a part of the cooling system but in vain. Finally noticed that the fan belt was put on the smaller pulley on the engine side which had reduced the fan rpm.
Could'nt feel more silly.
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Old 9th July 2009, 17:06   #10
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Modern cars have an electric fan(but the alternator belt is still called fan belt).
So this is not an issue for lancer
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Old 9th July 2009, 18:10   #11
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This sure worked! Should be the water pump issue only, right?

Just curious if a taiwan make one would be ok to go for instead of the original one.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Water pump is driven by engine rpm. If water pump goes weak, sometimes it will pump fast enough only when the engine speed is high.
So do this.
Idle car till temp starts creeping above half way mark, and then start revving her to 2000rpm or 2500rpm when standstill, if tem guage starts coming down, its an issue with water circulation.

Normally water pump change is recommended around 100000kms
.
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Old 9th July 2009, 19:13   #12
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Taiwan make is okay, since OE is much costlier. Most lancer parts are from taiwan, and bit cheaper as an maruti part.

My lancer temperature gauge is just below half way, ALWAYS (with or without AC) once after morning start, after sometime it climbs near, just below half way mark. I think its normal for lancers.
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Old 10th July 2009, 00:31   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunilb View Post
Just one of my past experiences...My Armada temp meter used to reach the red mark within 10-15mins of engine startup and this problem began after I had an engine overhaul.
Got everything changed and serviced that was a part of the cooling system but in vain. Finally noticed that the fan belt was put on the smaller pulley on the engine side which had reduced the fan rpm.
Could'nt feel more silly.
The Armada uses a engine driven fan, the new front wheel drive vehicles use electrical fan [even some rear wheel drive]. This is done to effectively cool the engine even with the engine rpm down and gives control on the temperature of the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MindSpeeDs View Post
This sure worked! Should be the water pump issue only, right?

Just curious if a taiwan make one would be ok to go for instead of the original one.
If the the temp drops after revving the engine means the pumps needs to be checked/replaced.

Is it a OEM replacement pump or those higher flow [high performance] pumps?
if it's oem replacement than it should be fine [ I would suggest genuine Mitsubishi part though], but if it's the high performance thing than please get more info, this is a crucial part of the engine and a wrong or bad quality pump could damage the engine.

Last edited by dinar : 10th July 2009 at 00:35.
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Old 10th July 2009, 09:10   #14
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Scouting for a higher flow one. Will go for the OEM one if i don't get it.
Yeah, do not want to take a chance with the pump or any part important.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dinar View Post
Is it a OEM replacement pump or those higher flow [high performance] pumps?if it's oem replacement than it should be fine [ I would suggest genuine Mitsubishi part though], but if it's the high performance thing than please get more info, this is a crucial part of the engine and a wrong or bad quality pump could damage the engine.
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Old 10th July 2009, 09:56   #15
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+1 to that. stick to OE. there is no need for a high flow (at least with my experience). change hoses if needed. climate is so cool for a really boosted drive. hard time controlling wheel spins.
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