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Old 5th July 2010, 18:04   #61
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My Petra which shares the same engine as the 1.6 Palio has not returned more then 9 kmpl in city ever.
Luckily no issue with water seeping inside except for one time when the car was parked right below a drain pipe of a terrace. Water had collected in the spare tyre area
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Old 5th July 2010, 23:06   #62
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Nice updates Vcash

6-7KPL - Yeeppy! My car returns the same figure.

Water seepage is a problem - in my car the rear doors is the source - the rain water seeps in from the bottom of the door trims.

1.6badge got stolen last week - ordered for it (1.9/1.2 badges are readily available).

Wish you all the best and try to convince your family members
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Old 6th July 2010, 00:03   #63
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Default Never water wash the engine bay in the 1.6 engined palios.

If you do not want electrical gremlins creeping into your GTX/S10 I suggest that you never ever power water wash your engine bay. Always use a moist cloth to wipe off accumulated dust in the engine bay. The electrical/electronic parts are sensitive to water ingress especially the ignition coil and the ECU connectors both ends. I had the GTX for 6 and half years and there was never ever any problem with anything with the car except for the accelerator cable which conked off in the first month of ownership. Since then I only had to spend on tires, wiper blades, wax polish and fluids.

For those who have problems with fuel efficiency that is less than 9kmpl in congested traffic please look into binding brakes, rear( yes rear) and front wheel alignment and the correct viscosity fluids. In addition make sure you definitely have a fast Oxygen/Lambda sensor. Google for fast lambda sensor and rigid axle rear wheel alignment.
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Old 6th July 2010, 00:06   #64
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Default clean the drain hole

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Originally Posted by planet_rocker View Post
in my car the rear doors is the source - the rain water seeps in from the bottom of the door trims.
Clean the drain holes in the bottom of each door.
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Old 6th July 2010, 10:51   #65
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Drpullockaran - i have checked the drain holes in the doors - they are clean. water is not accumulating at the base of the doors.

like most cars, it seeps through this:

Name:  DSC00828.JPG
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runs down the door pads and drips inside from here:

2002 Palio GTX - The Revival Thread-photo0473.jpg

@Vcash - sorry for going OT.
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Old 6th July 2010, 14:32   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
For those who have problems with fuel efficiency that is less than 9kmpl in congested traffic please look into binding brakes, rear( yes rear) and front wheel alignment and the correct viscosity fluids. In addition make sure you definitely have a fast Oxygen/Lambda sensor. Google for fast lambda sensor and rigid axle rear wheel alignment.


Any suggestions for rear wheel allignment ? Is it done outside service centers ? since as far as I know it is not adjustable.
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Old 7th July 2010, 03:07   #67
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Originally Posted by bottle View Post
Any suggestions for rear wheel allignment ? Is it done outside service centers ? since as far as I know it is not adjustable.

Rear wheels do not have adjustable alignment. If rear alignment is significantly off, rear dead axle will have to be replaced. Cost is about 15,000 + labour.
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Old 7th July 2010, 13:15   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
If you do not want electrical gremlins creeping into your GTX/S10 I suggest that you never ever power water wash your engine bay. Always use a moist cloth to wipe off accumulated dust in the engine bay. The electrical/electronic parts are sensitive to water ingress especially the ignition coil and the ECU connectors both ends. I had the GTX for 6 and half years and there was never ever any problem with anything with the car except for the accelerator cable which conked off in the first month of ownership. Since then I only had to spend on tires, wiper blades, wax polish and fluids.

For those who have problems with fuel efficiency that is less than 9kmpl in congested traffic please look into binding brakes, rear( yes rear) and front wheel alignment and the correct viscosity fluids. In addition make sure you definitely have a fast Oxygen/Lambda sensor. Google for fast lambda sensor and rigid axle rear wheel alignment.

+1 to that. I remember when I gave my Palio to Prerna Motors for servicing a couple of year ago. The car stopped when I was getting it back home. I somehow managed to get it to start and reached home to discover that there was water in the engine bay. Its been having ECU issues since that day and is now in the workshop for an ECU change.

I wonder why the manufacturers can't let their service agents know about this. Changing an ECU is a costly affair to say the least.

The other question I had is I have seen so many topics here in Team BHP about Palio's needing an ECU change. Is this a problem specific to Fiat car's or all cars with ECU?
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Old 7th July 2010, 23:57   #69
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Default Some nut case at the service center.

Quote:
Originally Posted by planet_rocker View Post
Drpullockaran - i have checked the drain holes in the doors - they are clean. water is not accumulating at the base of the doors.

like most cars, it seeps through this:

runs down the door pads and drips inside from here:
Dear Rocker,
Some nut job has removed the 0.8 mm plastic cladding that is the water proofing stuff between your visible door pads and the metal base. The plastic thingy is about the same size as the door pad and is fixed there with partially setting tacky glue. I hope you know what I am talking about. The plastic sheet if glued well will never allow water to come in through the door pad area that you have shown in the photos.
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Old 8th July 2010, 00:06   #70
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Default All cars with ECu are susceptible.

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Originally Posted by avinashpai View Post
Is this a problem specific to Fiat car's or all cars with ECU?
All cars can get the fever but the Palio 1.6 ECU and ignition coil are especially susceptible.

I have the Cruze now and I fired the service center for washing my cars engine bay during the 2nd service. A moist cloth will do the job. The main problem is that these idiots at the service center use a mixture of diesel and some soap solution. The soap washes off but the diesel layer is retained which ruins the electricals in the long run. Never let the service center fellows wash your cars engine bay. For other parts of the car use a mild car shampoo. Never use any fuels to wet your cars grime. Infact the less the service center meddles with your car of any make the better for your car and your pocket.
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Old 8th July 2010, 00:13   #71
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Default Rubber bushes.

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Any suggestions for rear wheel allignment ? Is it done outside service centers ? since as far as I know it is not adjustable.
Few cars like the lancer have got minor possibilities in rear wheel adjustments because of its multi link set up.

The Palio has rigid rear axle but its the bushes that I am talking about. Change them if the rear wheels are off from the base values. Some amount of rear wheel toe-in can be adjusted in my Junkindica because of the play in the bolt and the nut thats welded onto the body that hold the arm in place. Note that Indica has independent suspension in the rear. For those cars with rigid rear axles check bushes and bearings if there is toe-out and/or significant negative camber.
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Old 8th July 2010, 09:31   #72
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thanks drpullockaran. I will get that checked. Does it sit in between the metal body and door pad?

Mobile device

Last edited by planet_rocker : 8th July 2010 at 09:33.
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Old 8th July 2010, 23:25   #73
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thanks drpullockaran. I will get that checked. Does it sit in between the metal body and door pad?

Mobile device
Yes that is the space it occupies.
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Old 25th September 2010, 17:33   #74
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So new issue - I went out of town for a week and when I returned, the car started behaving oddly. Morning crank took a long time - almost 4 or 5 starts before she showed any life. Then within 3 or 4 days the battery died on me. I replaced a 3 year old Exide battery with a new one from Tata Green. For 2 days, the car worked fine - Started in one or two cranks. But then for the past 3 days, morning starts took 10 to 15 cranks!! Plus if the car is parked for more than 8 hours, it needs atleast 4 to 5 cranks to start her.

So I thought that maybe the spark plugs were shot. I replaced the spark plugs last night.
Unfortunately this has not solved the problem, and this morning she took 5 or 6 cranks to start up again.

The funny thing is that once she starts she drives alright save for the exception of the occasional loss of power while driving (under 5 seconds) and then she drives fine again. Also once she has warmed up if I turn her off and restart the car, she cranks instantaneously.

My mechanic feels the MAP sensor might need replacing but I am not too sure about this.

Would appreciate any help in pinpointing where this trouble is coming from.

Cheers,
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Old 27th September 2010, 13:03   #75
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@Vcash,

Pls have the mechanic to check the ignition coil. I think if it is cranking properly then starter problem can be ruled out.
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