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Old 12th April 2010, 17:54   #16
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Originally Posted by revtech View Post
clicking noise ? i hear a "thak" sound on turning the wheel all the way while parking.should it be of any concern ?
If you can live with it just get the rubber boot replaced. Else new driveshaft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
1) CARS India : RHS Drive shaft + bearing (they say it comes as part of the driveshaft) : Rs.6010
No way. Bearing and driveshaft are always separate.
Bearing has failed when you hear moaning noise from wheel at highway speeds.
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Old 12th April 2010, 17:58   #17
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Mpower, this is OT, but I get squeaking sounds from the front right wheel of my M800 at all speeds. Could this be a bearing issue?
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Old 12th April 2010, 18:07   #18
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Originally Posted by Gilead View Post
Mpower, this is OT, but I get squeaking sounds from the front right wheel of my M800 at all speeds. Could this be a bearing issue?
No, squeaking usually means one of the joints needs lubrication. Most likely the anti roll bar.
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Old 12th April 2010, 18:18   #19
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I went down to Elektra and they were still awaiting the part from Delhi - couriered today, to arrive tomorrow. Asked them why it was 15K, when MASS says its 6K. They said its Baleno - parts costly, bearing also damaged etc.

Since I could not get a convincing explanation, called Kamlesh Patel who I believe owns Elektra (thanks nitrous for the suggestion). He was out of town, but said he will call me back after checking with his folks and said the price does not seem correct.

He called back in 5 mins and said that the drive-shaft is just 6.8K. Apparently, the bearing (which is a separate part as mentioned by MPower) is also damaged. So are some other parts related to this which need to be changed. He said they will give me the full break-up for the 15K.

He also mentioned that if it was only the drive-shaft, I would still have been able to drive the car. It was due to the other stuff also packing up, that the car was not moving.
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Old 12th April 2010, 18:27   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpower View Post

No way. Bearing and driveshaft are always separate.
Bearing has failed when you hear moaning noise from wheel at highway speeds.
Mpower, sorry for being OT. My 2003 Ikon (72K Kms) gives a kind of "ooo" sound from the rear. I doubted issues with the rear wheel bearings and the Ford Service concurs. Apparently the bearings have worn out and each bearing costs Rs.3000. If I don't change the tyres might face un-even wear is what I was told. I intend to sell the car in 2011. So is it absolutely necessary to address this issue now?
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Old 12th April 2010, 18:30   #21
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[quote=Mpower;1834260]If you can live with it just get the rubber boot replaced. Else new driveshaft.

Do you mean to say the drive shaft per se wont deteriorate further and merely replace the boot to prevent dust from going into the CV joint ?
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Old 12th April 2010, 18:49   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
He called back in 5 mins and said that the drive-shaft is just 6.8K. Apparently, the bearing (which is a separate part as mentioned by MPower) is also damaged. So are some other parts related to this which need to be changed. He said they will give me the full break-up for the 15K.
If you get the wheel bearing number you can try sourcing it from the open market. You can source it from reputed bearing shops in your area, and as long as you get an original SKF, FAG or some other quality make it will be as good as OE and probably can save a bit of $ too.
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Old 13th April 2010, 00:01   #23
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Quote:
its more like thak thak thak thak while turning with full lock of steering, and the sound increases while turning in inclines.
It starts out as a faint "click click click" but once it gets worse and worse its "khat khat khat"
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiku007 View Post
So is it absolutely necessary to address this issue now?
The sound will get worse and worse and get unbearable at some point. Plus your buyer will reduce 10K from his offer to you because of it so you haven't really saved money. Get it done outside like Sankar says and enjoy a noise free drive.

I guess if you leave it to the end, then the wheel will lose camber (tilted) and wear out the tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by narayan View Post
drive shaft per se wont deteriorate further and merely replace the boot to prevent dust from going into the CV joint ?
you need to completely clean the CV joint, pack it with grease and install a new boot. You will still hear the same noise but you can get good life out of it if you are gentle. Avoid giving full power with the wheel fully tuned. This is the worst case for wear.

Last edited by Mpower : 13th April 2010 at 00:10.
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Old 13th April 2010, 00:08   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiku007
Mpower, sorry for being OT. My 2003 Ikon (72K Kms) gives a kind of "ooo" sound from the rear. I doubted issues with the rear wheel bearings and the Ford Service concurs. Apparently the bearings have worn out and each bearing costs Rs.3000. If I don't change the tyres might face un-even wear is what I was told. I intend to sell the car in 2011. So is it absolutely necessary to address this issue now?
Do the car and yourself a favour and get the wheel bearings replaced.
Even if you don't do it, any potential buyer/dealer in 2011 will get to know it during the test-drive and will obviously point it out as a negative and bring the price down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar
If you get the wheel bearing number you can try sourcing it from the open market. You can source it from reputed bearing shops in your area, and as long as you get an original SKF, FAG or some other quality make it will be as good as OE and probably can save a bit of $ too.
For a busy person like SupremeBaleno, I'd rather suggest he pay the 5-10% premium that independent garages charge for the spares. Not worth taking the trip to the market(G.P.Road),standing beside sweaty mechanics, waiting forever for the part to arrive from the "godown" and most of all, who knows if they are genuine or "genuine" parts.
With the independent garage, its his liability and responsibility to source the genuine parts for the customer. Else, its his business and goodwill that's at stake.

Regarding Electra, I accept that they're a bit premium. But, you pay for the quality,competence and service.
I'll still vouch for them since Kamleshji is now present there almost everyday from 10AM-3 PM.
Most of all, they will never try over-invoicing or other "tactics" to make a quick buck.

Last edited by nitrous : 13th April 2010 at 00:14.
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Old 13th April 2010, 00:23   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar
If you get the wheel bearing number you can try sourcing it from the open market. You can source it from reputed bearing shops in your area, and as long as you get an original SKF, FAG or some other quality make it will be as good as OE and probably can save a bit of $ too.
Sankar, now that you mentioned this, I have a friend who deals in bearings in the 'market'. And previously I have gone the market route for car-parts. But in this case, the car broke down, had to be towed to the garage (so not much control) - so decided to get the parts from them.

Actually, located next door to Electra is a MASS, but I went for the former because of the +ve experience that nitrous/headers etc have had with the garage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous
For a busy person like SupremeBaleno, I'd rather suggest he pay the 5-10% premium that independent garages charge for the spares. Not worth taking the trip to the market(G.P.Road),standing beside sweaty mechanics, waiting forever for the part to arrive from the "godown" and most of all, who knows if they are genuine or "genuine" parts.
No busy person or anything - just plain lazy. And no issues with a 5-10% premium. Just that a 2.5 times premium had me worried. Have done the G.P.Road thing earlier, but yeah, its a pain like you mentioned - I hate venturing into that traffic-jammed road parked all over with automobiles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous
Regarding Electra, I would accept they're a bit premium. But, you pay for the quality,competence and service. I'll still vouch for them since Kamleshji is now present there almost everyday from 10AM-3 PM.
Kamlesh could understand my complaint and got an answer quickly. So no issues there.

OT : nitrous, if I knew you were up at this time of the night posting on tbhp, I would have called you instead of typing that painfully long SMS.
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Old 13th April 2010, 09:26   #26
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@ Mpower and Nitrous - Thanks for the reply.

I'll get it done when the car is free for a while. Hhhm add another 6+K for the 2+L I have spent on the Ikon in the past 5 years!

The car's resale value is a little over a lakh only. So I gotta do some calculations before replacing anything

Last edited by kiku007 : 13th April 2010 at 09:27.
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Old 13th April 2010, 09:48   #27
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Originally Posted by supremeBaleno View Post
He also mentioned that if it was only the drive-shaft, I would still have been able to drive the car. It was due to the other stuff also packing up, that the car was not moving.
This is absolutely not true! The problem I faced was the LH driveshaft failed and the car was stranded. Whenever I tried to put it in gear and revved the car, all I could hear was a grinding noise and the car would not move. I got the car towed to Pratham motors on ORR and they diagnosed it as driveshaft failure. Next day, they replaced the driveshaft and the car is fine!

Are you sure that you are not being taken for a ride with regard to the bearing being damaged?
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Old 15th April 2010, 10:59   #28
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Sorry guys for not updating this thread - was stuck with some work/family stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnrajdeep
This is absolutely not true! The problem I faced was the LH driveshaft failed and the car was stranded. Whenever I tried to put it in gear and revved the car, all I could hear was a grinding noise and the car would not move. I got the car towed to Pratham motors on ORR and they diagnosed it as driveshaft failure. Next day, they replaced the driveshaft and the car is fine!
My situation was very close to what you had - same grinding noise and car not moving. I am no expert, but looks like different variations are possible. Also, I am told its not the wheel-bearing that got damaged, but the gbox bearing that works in conjunction with the drive-shaft.

The parts reached Electra on Tuesday evening by courier from Delhi and the list is :
Drive Shaft : 5997
Centre shaft : 1812
Gbox bearing : 980
These are the parts to be changed totalling to Rs. 8789. The courier charges are 900 - might not have been incurred with MASS, but I am ok.

So, basically the confusion was due to the guy at the Electra office not knowing what was ordered and insisting that it was 15K for just drive-shaft + bearing. I am glad I took nitrous' advice and called up Kamlesh - this cleared things up.

Since yesterday was a holiday, work starts today. Car should be ready by tomorrow or Saturday max.

Last edited by supremeBaleno : 15th April 2010 at 11:01.
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Old 20th April 2010, 16:36   #29
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The car was ready yesterday, but I could collect it only today morning.

The drive-shaft replacement job cost 10155 + VAT, with break-up being :
Drive shaft : 5330
Intermediate shaft : 1610
Bearing : 965
D.shaft remove & replace : 850
Replacement of inter-mediate shaft : 750
Brakedown attending + Towing charge : 650

I had a look at the drive-shaft that was replaced. The rubber-boot on both ends looks just fine - not torn or anything. Not sure why the damn thing got damaged. No visible damage to the intermediate shaft too.

A query to the experts : In my case, the failure occured after I stopped the car and then tried to move. What if this had happened when say I am halfway through overtaking a vehicle ? Is such a scenario possible ? Sounds scary, if it can.
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Old 20th April 2010, 17:00   #30
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For me, the failure happened then I was taking a U-turn. All I could do was coast to a stop to the extreme right, switch on hazard lights and wait for the towing guys. Luckily for me, that part of the outer ring road was widened recently and there was enough space for traffic to avoid me.

A traffic cop came over and we looked at the possibility of pushing the car to the other side of the road but we didnt do it because we had to push the car up an incline or had to push it along the extreme right for some distance, clear a few speed breakers and then push it to the left side of the road.

Thankfully, the towing van arrived in 15 minutes! If this happens while overtaking, all we can do is slow down, let the vehicle you were trying to overtake pass and then try to coast to a halt while moving towards the left.
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