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Old 18th December 2007, 10:37   #196
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Originally Posted by aburagohain View Post
throttleking, if you had noticed, the humming noise in 3/4/5 gears come only initially, this is because the rpm drops considerably by the time you upshift and the engine needs to build up the rpm/torque again. once the correct rpm is reached for a particular gear, the humming noise goes off.

the remedy i found out is to take the rpm to 2k and before initiating the upshift, give the accelerator a slight blip to take the rpm past 2k and immediately proceed with the shift. by the time the rpm starts to fall below 1.5k, i am already disengaging the clutch and the vehicle runs smooth without the noise. by doing so, i am of course violating the 2k rpm limit set for the running-in period, but a shuddering engine is not a good thing either.

people driving diesels generally use the above technique to hold the torque in place between shifts, as is also done by the race drivers, that's why you hear a whining sound when watching a formula driver negotiate a turn, he is making sure that the moment he comes out of the curve, he can continue at the same speed, no need to build up the acceleration from scratch. the same technique would be used by many veteran bullet riders to do a clutch-less shift, it takes some getting used to, but once the timing is determined, the gears can be changed easily without having to pull the hard clutch of the bike every time, haven't tried the same on other bikes though, so can't say if it works on all machines.

take a td again if possible and try the same, it's hard to experiment on a new vehicle you know :-)

thanks, in the end i used the same technique just to make sure that there is not much noise since my better half braught it in my notice twice....but usually in heavy traffic situation pulling the beast upto 2k rpm in 2nd gear would not be possible.....rather difficult.

i also find the cluth positioning difficult to use, but just a matter of habit. once you get used to it there will be no issues. cluth press is also difficult, i found that there is no half cluth position either it is completely pressed or completely released...i noticed this in Dicor 3.0 as well....may be these are the initial niggles team talking here about.

i moved from Wagon R to Ford Ikon Diesel, i have finally realized that some vehicles need that extra attention like my Bullet, Ford Ikon Diesel and now Tata Safari Dicor 2.0. but the pleasure of riding / driving these is amazing

another area of improvement: sudeen breaking at high speed is still pain. despite of ABS
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Old 18th December 2007, 10:39   #197
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has anyone of the safari owners got a gear-lock fitted on his vehicle, please if possible post a pic of the same.

got myself a gear lock in the heat of the moment, now that the lock has arrived from ebay, i am wondering where does it get placed, the are around the safari gear lever is a vast plain sheet of plastic material as it seems to me.

also, whether to get it fitted by the service station guys or go to a mechanic?

any help is appreciated much.

do you really need a gear lock? isnt the engine immobilizer sufficient enough? just wanted to know
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Old 18th December 2007, 11:56   #198
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I'll post you a pic. I got a gear lock fitted from the dealer itself.
You can see it in Bruty's truck.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ycus-grey.html (New tata Safari 2.2 VTT LX Cycus Grey)
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Old 18th December 2007, 11:57   #199
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Thank you DJ, that would be very helpful! What do you suggest for the fitting place, service station? I wonder if they would be willing to do that.

Throttleking, mine is an LX, so the immobilizer is not part of the package. Anyway, I wanted something visible like a lock, people who matter might as well not decide to put in the extra work of cutting through :-)
You are right, it is not possible to have everything, that's what makes a particular machine stand out, sometimes there is a little pain involved, but that transforms into pure pleasure once things get going.. keeps one involved and drives the monotony away i'd say!
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Old 20th February 2008, 19:41   #200
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hey guys been a long time since I have updated this thread.

The BEAR has crossed 5K on the ODO. In fact its 5134. . As I am leaving on a road trip this weekend I decided to take it to the service station for a wash and a general checkup.
GLAD to say no major issues to report

Issues Reported Action Taken & Cost
Rear Left Tail Light bulb fuse replaced 13.33
Tailgate TATA Emblem/Mascot missing new 146.67
Front Left Fog Lamp was not focused adjusted 0.00
Seats rattling and door adjustment adjusted 0.00
Normal Washing/Vacuuming etc done 0.00
total cost
(incl 20.00 VAT) 180.00

Another couple of things that I wanted to get done was the Wheel Balancing, Wheel Alignment and Tyre Rotation. Though no issues on this front just as a mater of habit. It could not be done as they did not have the stick on weights for the alloy wheels so I decided that I would get it done from outside maybe some of the shops in Karol Bagh.

One thing that is bothering me is that the beast is now returning a FE of just about 10 KM to a liter in the city and this too is without the AC.
The initial averages were 12 +/- .5 but now it has drastically reduced for reasons I fail to understand. Are other Safari owners also facing similar FE figures or I am the odd one out. One thing that I do is every morning I start the beast for about 10 minutes before driving off anywhere. Could this be the culprit?

However on the full life of the beast the FE figures are a little better 11.35.

I have come to this conclusion as follows.
Total mileage 5034 KMS on the ODO 5134 100 (at the time of delivery)
Total fuel consumed 443.37 l (total fuel 508.37- 65 in the tank)
This 5034 Km run has about 1300 KMS on the highway rest is in the city and majority of it without the air con.

Rest everything is great with the beast and I am enjoying every little bit of it. Wouldnt trade the beast for anything else.

MODS PLEASE UPDATE "crossed 5000 kms"
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Old 21st February 2008, 10:23   #201
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around apprx 11 in the city with AC is acceptable for 2.2, but then it also depends on your driving habits, trafffic etc.

Btw, can you remind me what fuel type are you using, normal or speed ??

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One thing that is bothering me is that the beast is now returning a FE of just about 10 KM to a liter in the city and this too is without the AC.
The initial averages were 12 +/- .5 but now it has drastically reduced for reasons I fail to understand. Are other Safari owners also facing similar FE figures or I am the odd one out. One thing that I do is every morning I start the beast for about 10 minutes before driving off anywhere. Could this be the culprit?
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Old 21st February 2008, 11:00   #202
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10 minutes of morning idle? Why? 1 minute should be enough, followed by 5 minutes of sedate driving(2000-2500rpm).
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Old 21st February 2008, 11:15   #203
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Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
...One thing that is bothering me is that the beast is now returning a FE of just about 10 KM to a liter in the city and this too is without the AC.
The initial averages were 12 +/- .5 but now it has drastically reduced for reasons I fail to understand. Are other Safari owners also facing similar FE figures or I am the odd one out. One thing that I do is every morning I start the beast for about 10 minutes before driving off anywhere. Could this be the culprit? ...
this can be a reason. 10 minutes is not such a small amount of time.but why do you do this? isnt a minutes or so, as mentioned by tsk, enough?

i recollect an old neighbour of mine and his Yezdi bike, running on kerosene (!). Every morning before going for his bath, he comes and spends 10-15 minutes trying to start the bike. Gets is started and then leaves it idling all the while he is getting ready! It was fun watching him every morning!
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Old 21st February 2008, 11:28   #204
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One thing that I do is every morning I start the beast for about 10 minutes before driving off anywhere.
Start the engine, watch your revvs on the tacho and listen to your engine. Within a minute the revvs will settle down to a steady 750 rpm or so (starting at over 1000) and the engine will sound like its settled down. You're ready to move then, without pushing the vehicle for the first half0-kilometer or so - 10 minutes is a huge overkill.
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Old 21st February 2008, 12:09   #205
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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
10 minutes of morning idle? Why? 1 minute should be enough, followed by 5 minutes of sedate driving(2000-2500rpm).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeroid View Post
Start the engine, watch your revvs on the tacho and listen to your engine. Within a minute the revvs will settle down to a steady 750 rpm or so (starting at over 1000) and the engine will sound like its settled down. You're ready to move then, without pushing the vehicle for the first half0-kilometer or so - 10 minutes is a huge overkill.
Interesting. Same applies to 3L right? And this would be only when the Safari is parked for long duration right,like in the morning?
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Old 21st February 2008, 12:16   #206
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Btw, can you remind me what fuel type are you using, normal or speed ??
I am using Xtra Mile Diesel from Indian Oil and being using that since the beginning.
Was tempted to used the Normal Diesel but dont feel like compromising the pick-up of the beast

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10 minutes of morning idle? Why? 1 minute should be enough, followed by 5 minutes of sedate driving(2000-2500rpm).
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyWheels View Post
this can be a reason. 10 minutes is not such a small amount of time.but why do you do this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steeroid View Post
Start the engine, watch your revvs on the tacho and listen to your engine. Within a minute the revvs will settle down to a steady 750 rpm or so (starting at over 1000) and the engine will sound like its settled down. You're ready to move then, without pushing the vehicle for the first half0-kilometer or so - 10 minutes is a huge overkill.
I too am now thinking that idling the engine for 10 minutes every morning could be the reason. I just did it as I thought that its would be better for the life of the engine to warms it up before driving. Now I would just warm it up for a minute or two before driving off.

But do you all think that idling the engine like this can cause a 15-20% drop in FE?
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Old 21st February 2008, 12:46   #207
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Xtramile should give good FE.

Normal diesel with system D is recommended as an alternative.

I just warm up for 30sec by the clock, in the meantime do the other chores inside, seatbelt/ ICE ON etc etc.

IIRC, its mentioned in the manual not to idle the engine for too long, better to switch it off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
I am using Xtra Mile Diesel from Indian Oil and being using that since the beginning.
Was tempted to used the Normal Diesel but dont feel like compromising the pick-up of the beast

I too am now thinking that idling the engine for 10 minutes every morning could be the reason. I just did it as I thought that its would be better for the life of the engine to warms it up before driving. Now I would just warm it up for a minute or two before driving off.

But do you all think that idling the engine like this can cause a 15-20% drop in FE?
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Old 21st February 2008, 17:16   #208
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The proper way to install the stick-on-weights is to clean the inside of the rim with soap & water to remove the grime, dry it properly and then install the weights. Normally no one does this; only use a wet cloth to wipe the area where the weights have to be fixed and then install. Thus, these weights in due course fall off. I've suffered this quite a lot in the past.

Instead use the conventional weights in this inside by asking him to balancing the wheel from the inside. Thus those ugly weights will not be visible from outside and will keep the wheel balanced as well..

"Wouldnt trade the beast for anything else". So would I too..

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Another couple of things that I wanted to get done was the Wheel Balancing, Wheel Alignment and Tyre Rotation. Though no issues on this front just as a mater of habit. It could not be done as they did not have the stick on weights for the alloy wheels so I decided that I would get it done from outside maybe some of the shops in Karol Bagh.

Wouldnt trade the beast for anything else.
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Old 25th February 2008, 10:42   #209
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Default update on the wheel balancing/alignment/rotation

went to the tyre shops in karol bagh(kartar/kanwal and there is one more). i went to the corner one and told him to do the rotation/bal/alignment. He asked me if i am facing any issues on the same like the bear pulling to one side or wobbling or something. As there is nothing of the sort he was of the view that there is no need for the same to be done before the bear ages till 10K kms.
So decided not to change/ adjust anything .
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Old 25th February 2008, 10:52   #210
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Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
went to the tyre shops in karol bagh(kartar/kanwal and there is one more). i went to the corner one and told him to do the rotation/bal/alignment. He asked me if i am facing any issues on the same like the bear pulling to one side or wobbling or something. As there is nothing of the sort he was of the view that there is no need for the same to be done before the bear ages till 10K kms.
So decided not to change/ adjust anything .
Seems like you got one honest, non 'show me the money' kind of guy!
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