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Old 8th March 2008, 13:14   #271
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Default reverse cam

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Originally Posted by harjeev View Post

The pic of the screen

@bIte tHe bulLet congratulations on getting one step closer towards reclaiming your life
thanks dude..

actually i'm quite impressed with the look of the mirror - i expected it to look a lot less (for lack of a better word!) "upmarket"

i'm going to see if i can get the dude doing my ICE to come to this figure (price wise).

does the image come onto the entire rvm or is it a small little image on right hand side of the mirror like on the vx version of the safari?

i'm assuming this is an lcd screen right?

cheers man.

p.s how long did the install take?

Last edited by bIte tHe bulLet : 8th March 2008 at 13:16. Reason: forgot to add ANOTHER question!!!
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Old 8th March 2008, 20:52   #272
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
Would like to have other Safari owners feedback particularly regarding this issue - "you can feel the pot holes on the steering"
My update on the steering issue
Though some feel is experienced or transferred to the steering column when the car runs over potholes etc, but in my opinion thats not a cause of concern.
Its only a issue when the refinment of other cars (in the steering issue) is compared to THE SAFARIS.

Now having driven the beast over 6.5K kms, no steering play has developed overtime.

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Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Adc, I saw you dont have LTOR, so do you plan to change the oil at 7.5k i.e. NOW ??.

Since its recommended in the OM to change oil if the running is more in the city.
Regarding the Oil change thing, I has a talked with the customer service execs at the gurgaon office of TataMotors. They said that the oil should only be changed at the specific inetrvals mentioned in the manual. Now as I had changed the oil at the 1st service (1000 kms) i am not sure whether to change the engine oil or wait for six months or 15K kms limit to be reached.
Maybe other T-Bhpians can advise


Quote:
Originally Posted by bIte tHe bulLet View Post
thanks dude..

actually i'm quite impressed with the look of the mirror - i expected it to look a lot less (for lack of a better word!) "upmarket"

i'm going to see if i can get the dude doing my ICE to come to this figure (price wise).

does the image come onto the entire rvm or is it a small little image on right hand side of the mirror like on the vx version of the safari?

i'm assuming this is an lcd screen right?

cheers man.

p.s how long did the install take?
Thanks an its really useful. Now that i am getting used to it, I wonder how I was driving without one.

The mirror that comes preinstalled on the VX is only 2". This one is 7" wide. The image comes onto the left side of the screen and covers a little less than 2/3rd of the screen from the LHS. I have taken a couple of pics will upload them later as i am surfing from my mobile and do not have i laptop in hand.

It is an LCD screen and the installation took about 45 minutes. Though i had to wait for another 1/2 hour as the shop owner did not know the bluetooth password. Required for pairing the mobile to the device. Finally somebody from the company told the passcode 0000 and i was off

Last edited by harjeev : 8th March 2008 at 20:55.
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Old 9th March 2008, 00:24   #273
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Default steering, noise and

haven't felt any steering vibration that could be termed abnormal i guess, need to cover some potholes again just to make sure, now it seems funny, how many people would want to actually go into a pothole head on.. i am happy with the way safari handles anything that comes by.

some movement of the steering wheel can be expected, especially when the pothole or obstacle that one encounters makes the front wheels turn left or right, if presented a chance, try driving one of those old trucks on a river bed, if held tightly, the steering will actually pull the driver out of the seat.. :-)

have come across many people complaining about the steering response at high speeds, just wonder what it is all about, haven't felt anything on my vehicle, would like to hear from other owners on that.

are you guys using the high or low position of the steering, i find the low position really comfortable, though getting into and out of the seat takes a little care. the high position was giving me a muscle ache on the upper arm as i usually drive with one hand, the low position allows a more relaxed sitting, worth a try, even though the steering would hinder the view of the instument panel, only thing i miss is the headlight high beam indicator in my case, i generally do not use the tacho and speedo, the engine tells you when to shift anyway.

loud humming noise is there when accelerating suddenly, have grown to actually like it now, gives a feeling of lots of power being delivered, guess that noise is normal though for the 2.2. the acceleration is just amazing for me, within no time the vehicle is touching 100 and one hardly realizes the speed, pretty impressive, gone are the days of pedal to metal, a tap is enough. sudden turns can be scary sometimes, but driving high cg vehicles for long, these kind of manouevers go out of your style of driving automatically, kind of bonding with the vehicle.

cheers!
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Old 9th March 2008, 15:31   #274
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just back from the brake fix job, thought would leave the experience here for the guys at bangalore.
today being a sunday, there was some free check-up camp being organized at the concorde service facility, not that i was informed in any way of it, wonder how people are supposed to learn of it.
there were a number of vehicles that came for the free service, the guys gladly took my vehicle into the workshop and within about 10 minutes, the time it took me to finish the apple juice being served complimentarily, the vehicle was out the other side of the workshop, they offered to do a full check and washing also but due to lack of time denied that. now that was a good feeling, then we went for a short test ride and my brakes are fixed now, very nice indeed.
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Old 9th March 2008, 18:27   #275
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pics of the screen with the reverse gear engaged in the daytime





Last edited by harjeev : 9th March 2008 at 18:29.
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Old 10th March 2008, 23:44   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Adc, I saw you dont have LTOR, so do you plan to change the oil at 7.5k i.e. NOW ??.

Since its recommended in the OM to change oil if the running is more in the city.
Before going off for the Orissa trip, I had the oil replaced at around 5000 km and also had a flush with Bardahl Engine Tuneup.

The costs were

Bardahl - Rs 675

HP Milcy 15w40 - Rs 1232 [7.7 L @ Rs160]

Assembly oil filter - Rs 175

Engine filter change- Rs 200

My reasoning is that whatever the manual says and whatever brand/grade of oil that they are putting in, it is better for the first 15k/20k kilometres to have regular oil change every 5k km. And then when we switch over to synthetic, we can follow their recommended oil change interval.
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Old 11th March 2008, 09:35   #277
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Very true, for warranty clauses, its better to change at the intervals specified in the manual and that too from their A.S.S. since then it gets recorded in their systems.

Adc, for the above reason, it does not matter if you change oil outside every few thousand kms as long as you have changed it at their specified intervals.

The specified service interval/ oil changes is what matters most for TATA, rest is your choice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
Regarding the Oil change thing, I has a talked with the customer service execs at the gurgaon office of TataMotors. They said that the oil should only be changed at the specific inetrvals mentioned in the manual. Now as I had changed the oil at the 1st service (1000 kms) i am not sure whether to change the engine oil or wait for six months or 15K kms limit to be reached.
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Old 12th March 2008, 09:49   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Very true, for warranty clauses, its better to change at the intervals specified in the manual and that too from their A.S.S. since then it gets recorded in their systems.
Definitely one has to service through TATA's Service Centres and I am, and in fact no one should, not looking to change oil outside for the next 4 years that warranty is for. With oil change one has to get the original filters also, the best place being the TATA Centres itself. This is how we keep the TATA's perspective.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Adc, for the above reason, it does not matter if you change oil outside every few thousand kms as long as you have changed it at their specified intervals.

The specified service interval/ oil changes is what matters most for TATA, rest is your choice.
And keeping our interest in mind, we should, again in my opinion, change oil at least for the first 15k/20k km at 5k interval as the engine condition is new and majority are still getting the API-CF4 grade not the API-CH4 at Service Stations/Centres

And going back to page 11 to this link, taking note of some of the advice:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...tml#post635094


Quote:
Originally Posted by gd1418 View Post
The truck is yours and bought out of hard earned money. You love it and it is going to give you long years of service whilst taking all the abuse that you subject it to while driving.

Get the oil changed. No harm, only will do good to your engine innards. Go for Mobil Delvac MX Multigrade or Chevron Delo 400.

I've owned vehicles for donkey's years to know what is best. So, I maintain my own schedule of service. Before using Mobil, I used to service my vehicle every 5000 Kms with oil & oil filter change, Diesel filter change, gear, steering, clutch, brake & differential oil top-up, coolant top-up, air filter clean, nut-bolts tighten, fan belt check etc.

Every 10 K the gear & Diff oil was replaced, and tyres rotated. So on so forth. After I've started using Mobil, I've started doing it at every 7.5K.
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Old 12th March 2008, 09:55   #279
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Default Engine oil dipstick level

After an oil change with HP Milcy 15w40 of 7.7 L, I find the dipstick oil level at half of the Max-Min mark - this after checking in the morning before starting i.e. with overnight rest and thus the engine oil well settled in the chamber.

Would like to know what other Safari 2.2 owners are seeing the mark level at. Of course again stating the obvious - This should best done in the morning before starting the engine, after an overnight rest and engine totally cooled down.

Last edited by adc : 12th March 2008 at 10:03.
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Old 12th March 2008, 10:19   #280
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
After an oil change with HP Milcy 15w40 of 7.7 L, I find the dipstick oil level at half of the Max-Min mark - this after checking in the morning before starting i.e. with overnight rest and thus the engine oil well settled in the chamber.

Would like to know what other Safari 2.2 owners are seeing the mark level at. Of course again stating the obvious - This should best done in the morning before starting the engine, after an overnight rest and engine totally cooled down.
The oil level is at Max. This was after filling up exactly 7.5L at the 1st service (measured with a measuring glass)

P.S: There is not much of a difference between oil specs CF4 and CH4 (atleast as far as our non-severe usages is concerned). The differences are only as regards to presence/ absense environmentally unacceptable impurities & some additional engine tests (which should not affect us) which CH4 confirms to and CF4 does not.

Last edited by kingshukt : 12th March 2008 at 10:28. Reason: additional data added
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Old 13th March 2008, 09:08   #281
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Originally Posted by kingshukt View Post
The oil level is at Max. This was after filling up exactly 7.5L at the 1st service (measured with a measuring glass)

P.S: There is not much of a difference between oil specs CF4 and CH4 (atleast as far as our non-severe usages is concerned). The differences are only as regards to presence/ absense environmentally unacceptable impurities & some additional engine tests (which should not affect us) which CH4 confirms to and CF4 does not.

Hey thanks for the info, quite a difference between us two - lets see what others come up with.
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Old 30th March 2008, 16:20   #282
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Hi
My BEAR is now past 6500 KMS and have been experiencing these small niggles.

there is some noise somewhere inside the cabin behind/around the co passenger seat. Though its not a problem but is bothering me a little

Secondly, The RHS ORVM has stopped working partially from the inside when its controlled from the switch inside the cabin. I mean it moves UP& DOWN but does not work LEFT & RIGHT. Will get this checked on my next visit to the Service Center.

Now the third and main thing which is bothering me is when I am driving like 60-70 or more and in emergency have to slam the brakes hard, the rear wheels simply lock up.this has happened a couple of times, I mean I understand if it was ABS equiped they would not lockup but this never happened in my any other car, which were too not ABS equiped. Also please do let me know whether the brakes are applied on the front wheels or the rear wheels and is it normal for the wheels to lock up like this.

Further I sometimes experience some vibrations in both the front wheels when I apply the brakes to slow the car down from speeds like 50-60-70kms to about 10-15kms or even while stopping.
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Old 30th March 2008, 16:46   #283
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1. Get yr front brake Pads checked for wear / eneven wear.
2. Get the brakes adjusted so that front and rear brakes get applied equally. If the front has worn more then naturally the rears are taking all the load and may be locking up as a result.

On a lighter vein..
More Power ... More Speed ... More braking.. more wear and tear
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Old 30th March 2008, 23:27   #284
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Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
Now the third and main thing which is bothering me is when I am driving like 60-70 or more and in emergency have to slam the brakes hard, the rear wheels simply lock up.this has happened a couple of times,
Nope, thats not normal behaviour. Ask your dealer to check the front-rear brake bias.

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Get the brakes adjusted so that front and rear brakes get applied equally. If the front has worn more then naturally the rears are taking all the load and may be locking up as a result.
Absolute rubbish! Firstly, the front end will always take more braking load than the rear. Secondly, the front / rear brake bias should NOT be equal. Due to weight transfer (while braking), the front brakes will always be doing more work. That is why you will see cars with disc brakes at the front versus drums at the rear, or with bigger brakes upfront.
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Old 30th March 2008, 23:39   #285
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Originally Posted by harjeev View Post
Further I sometimes experience some vibrations in both the front wheels when I apply the brakes to slow the car down from speeds like 50-60-70kms to about 10-15kms or even while stopping.
That should be brake judder. Get your advisor to check the discs & have the m faced on a lathe to iron out the vibrations.
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