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Old 28th May 2009, 15:35   #61
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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
The hydraulic jack is a must have. I have jacked up the safari once, and all I can say is "never again!".

As for compressor, I suggest return it and get foot pump type. I have used such 10A compressors, and they are only useful for topup. It takes 15 minutes+ to inflate a flat tire, esp for big SUVs
I had this apprehension also. I had bought a 10A compressor for ~Rs. 600. I found out the hard way that besides getting hot (make that very hot), nothing significant happens. I then invested in a a bigger compressor. It fill up fro 20-22 PSI to 32 PSI in ~ 10 minutes (has auto stop too)

I agree on your experience as regards jacking up the Safari (and my poor back does too... )
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:13   #62
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So it takes 20-32 PSI in ten minutes. Imagine filling a flat tire for 30 minutes. Get the footpump. I had one for our gypsy, took around 2-3 minutes for totally flat to full!
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:18   #63
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So it takes 20-32 PSI in ten minutes. Imagine filling a flat tire for 30 minutes. Get the footpump. I had one for our gypsy, took around 2-3 minutes for totally flat to full!
Have a foot pump also. I do not agree on 2-3 minutes from Flat to full. Again you are better built than me.

Another problem is that the pump must sit properly on the ground when you pump else it just falls sideways.

The 10 minutes that mentioned earlier from 20-22 PSI to 32 PSI is now revised to ~ 5 minutes from what other family member(s) remember.

@ Umang .. Sorry to hijack your thread ....

Last edited by kingshukt : 28th May 2009 at 16:22.
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:20   #64
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Yup, my estimate was for the gypsy for safari the footpump will take 5 minutes atleast
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:30   #65
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Originally Posted by TheARUN View Post
Has everyone noticed? They shifted the 2.2 DICOR badge to below the side indicator from the C pillar.
Thats a no brainer, to fill up the hole caused by the shifting of the side indicators to the ORVM.

For the hydraulic jack, you can opt for a pin type also, similar to OEM but hydraulic.
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:44   #66
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Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Thats a no brainer, to fill up the hole caused by the shifting of the side indicators to the ORVM.

For the hydraulic jack, you can opt for a pin type also, similar to OEM but hydraulic.
I disagree sir. You only have to remove a corepin in your press tool.

What is a pin type hydraulic jack - is it one that is vertical & similar to the mechanical one. If so I prefer the type which Umang has shown. If provides for better overall stability especially on a slope.

Photo of Vertical hydraulic jack:
Attached Images
 

Last edited by kingshukt : 28th May 2009 at 16:50.
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:51   #67
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Originally Posted by umang dutt View Post
Got the compressor for around 650/- and the jack for around 1000/-. Pics posted below. Details, visible in the pics, let me know if you need more details
The compressor which you have got i guess is a useless for Safari Tyres and would suggest you to go for a heavy duty one's.

Now coming to the Hydraulic Jack it looks very compatible and portable with the box which makes it easier to store it in the boot, but never heard about the Coozo brand.
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:52   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingshukt View Post
I disagree sir. You only have to remove a corepin in your press tool.

What is a pin type hydraulic jack - is it one that is vertical & similar to the mechanical one. If so I prefer the type which Umang has shown. If provides for better overall stability especially on a slope
It not a matter of only a pin, the die also casts a depression for the indicator to fit inside at body levels along with the hole, the same is being doen in Ikon ZXI. They wont change their master die just because the GX & above does not need a body indicator whereas others do need it.

On the assembly line they save cost effort etc. I can see no other reason for the badging location to change.

Yes, it the vertical one(called pin type). Definitely the one shown here is more stabler but takes up more space + weight.
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Old 28th May 2009, 16:58   #69
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Originally Posted by dadu View Post
It not a matter of only a pin, the die also casts a depression for the indicator to fit inside at body levels along with the hole, the same is being doen in Ikon ZXI. They wont change their master die just because the GX & above does not need a body indicator whereas others do need it.

On the assembly line they save cost effort etc. I can see no other reason for the badging location to change.

Your point taken, sir. Did not think about it on your lines. (In fact did not think about it at all )

Considering the ~ 2T weight that is to be lifted, I would rather sacrifics space & Wt for stability. For lighter cars your point taken.
BTW Ebay sells the Vertical (pin) type jacks as "5 ton hydraulic Jack" and it is cheaper too.

Last edited by kingshukt : 28th May 2009 at 17:03.
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Old 28th May 2009, 18:28   #70
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Hi,

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Originally Posted by kingshukt View Post
Edit2: @ Trrk... I completly agree with you. Lifting the tyre back on to the stepney mount does need some huffing and puffing. May be if I changed over to alloys, the weight will be little less.....
My experience was with the first generation Safari with the OEM steel wheels. Have no experience with the alloy ones. But you are sure to get your dress dirty with the stepney.

Moroever the OEM jack (vertical one) would not go under the car when the tyre is flat (experience with a rear puncture)!
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Old 28th May 2009, 19:12   #71
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Okay guys, so this is now the official "Safari tyre and jack thread"

Thanks for all the tips.

We once had a flat in a Qualis and it was tough enough trying to get the spare back up under the vehicle. They had some weird contraction that gave me a tough time especially since it was 2:00 in the afternoon, in May !

Since the safari has a spare, I don't think I will be using the compressor much except for top-ups.

And as for the jack and puncture kit, I really hope that I don't have a chance to use them anytime soon. Will remember to carry the extra bit of cloth and towel too, just in case.

By the way have any of you had any experience with people trying to flick your spare wheel ?? One of the 2 bolts has a hole has a hole in it, through which you can pass a small lock. I have seen such contraptions on 2 wheelers, but never realized the Safari had it !
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Old 28th May 2009, 19:59   #72
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Hi,

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Originally Posted by umang dutt View Post
One of the 2 bolts has a hole has a hole in it, through which you can pass a small lock. I have seen such contraptions on 2 wheelers, but never realized the Safari had it !
And please use it.
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Old 29th May 2009, 17:54   #73
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Use a smaller lock on the Spare wheel cover too, thats the one most likely to get flicked, i wonder why a locking zipper slider itself wasnt provided in the first place ??
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Old 30th May 2009, 00:22   #74
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best option guys...

you get a lock for about a grand, which replaces one of the bolts on the spare wheel loaded on the back.

works a peach and stops you having to mess about with locks that can be broken by any self respecting thief out to swipe a 16k (atleast) wheel and tyre combo..

will try and post some pics of the slick little contraption.

i'm sure some exist on my own safari thread, 'bitten the bullet - safari 2.2 lx' of mar 08

cheers amigos.
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Old 30th May 2009, 13:40   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Use a smaller lock on the Spare wheel cover too, thats the one most likely to get flicked, i wonder why a locking zipper slider itself wasnt provided in the first place ??
going to get one today itself

Quote:
Originally Posted by bIte tHe bulLet View Post
best option guys...

you get a lock for about a grand, which replaces one of the bolts on the spare wheel loaded on the back.

i'm sure some exist on my own safari thread, 'bitten the bullet - safari 2.2 lx' of mar 08
cheers amigos.
will check this out right away, then i can see if the lock i already bought can be used for the cover.
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