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Old 12th September 2012, 14:03   #7216
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by Indizen010 View Post
I parked on the kerbside and found that when I pressed the accelerator, the rev count went up to 3000 or 4000 and still the car moved with great difficulty.
Just then, I could smell the odor like burning rubber?
What is the likely issue?
Its got to do with the clutch plate and pressure plate.
What causes this?
I think that the clutch plate is damaged. Usually, the burning smell and difficulty in engaging gears indicates a worn out clutch.
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Old 12th September 2012, 15:15   #7217
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by Indizen010 View Post
My Titanium Diesel had done 32000 km without any incident.
I got the car serviced 2 weeks back and nothing was wrong.

Yesterday I was driving along, when I suddenly noticed that the gears were not engaging.
I parked on the kerbside and found that when I pressed the accelerator, the rev count went up to 3000 or 4000 and still the car moved with great difficulty.
Just then, I could smell the odor like burning rubber?

What is the likely issue?

I got the car towed to Ford Service and they are working on it.

Its got to do with the clutch plate and pressure plate.

What causes this?

They say its likely to cost me 9000 to 11000....!

The RTB was replaced last week.
Most probably the clutch plate might have worn off. It does not happen suddenly but gradually..

Did anyone else ride your car for long distances(100kms or something) recently? Also do you rest your legs on the clutch pedal ?
I ask this from a personal experience of mine.

We had this experience on the Fiesta (old) when a family friend rode the car for 200kms and next day the car would not move and this burning smell. Needless to say the clutch plate had worn off.

It is possible with no or less gear shifts people rest their feet on the clutch causing it to wear off.

Otherwise it should take some amount of rough acrobatics with clutch slipping etc to get this done.
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Old 12th September 2012, 16:53   #7218
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Cool re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

Quote:
Originally Posted by figo_mba View Post
Most probably the clutch plate might have worn off. It does not happen suddenly but gradually..

Did anyone else ride your car for long distances(100kms or something) recently? Also do you rest your legs on the clutch pedal ?
I ask this from a personal experience of mine.

We had this experience on the Fiesta (old) when a family friend rode the car for 200kms and next day the car would not move and this burning smell. Needless to say the clutch plate had worn off.

It is possible with no or less gear shifts people rest their feet on the clutch causing it to wear off.

Otherwise it should take some amount of rough acrobatics with clutch slipping etc to get this done.
In June I drove to Jalori pass in Himachal which is steep incline with first gear driving for 15 to 20 km.

And my driving style may be blamed also, because I tend to keep pressing the clutch, even without shifting the gears.

But I was keen to know if the clutch can wear out after 30000 km or so?
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Old 12th September 2012, 17:16   #7219
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Indizen010 View Post
In June I drove to Jalori pass in Himachal which is steep incline with first gear driving for 15 to 20 km.

And my driving style may be blamed also, because I tend to keep pressing the clutch, even without shifting the gears.

But I was keen to know if the clutch can wear out after 30000 km or so?
Hi riding in a gear (even if it is first gear) will not cause the clutch to wear out.. People have a tendency to slip the clutch when climbing inclines and this can cause clutch wear.

30000 KMS for a clutch.... well not that good..

But I am not sure if you can claim manufacturer warranty on clutch after a certain number of kilometers.


I have a figo that has done 55K - which is double your running.
As for the Swift Vxi petrol (2006 Jan) the clutch plate was changed at 1,60,000kms. I hope you get the point.

I follow the below mentioned stuff religiously
  • Don't slip the clutch while driving in any gear instead shift to a lower gear.
  • Dont keep your foot on the clutch pedal while driving.

Also for a diesel engine with turbo for trying to climb an incline from rest
First depress the clutch fully
Then Raise the engine rpm with clutch fully depressed.
Once engine is revving comfortable release the clutch and make your move.

Raising engine revs with clutch half depressed is another major cause for clutch wear.

Last edited by figo_mba : 12th September 2012 at 17:21.
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Old 12th September 2012, 17:25   #7220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figo_mba
[*]Don't slip the clutch while driving in any gear instead shift to a lower gear.[*]Dont keep your foot on the clutch pedal while driving.
I sometimes press and hold clutch for sometime when I there is slow traffic and at this time lift leg on the accelarator pedal. Will this wears out clutch soon ?

While driving if we keep our leg on clutch till free play. Is this not good?
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Old 12th September 2012, 20:37   #7221
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by HighOctane View Post
I sometimes press and hold clutch for sometime when I there is slow traffic and at this time lift leg on the accelarator pedal. Will this wears out clutch soon ?

While driving if we keep our leg on clutch till free play. Is this not good?
As far as I know, depressing the clutch fully should not cause harm. But it is advisable to shift to neutral if you have to do this for a prolonged period. Also, it is not recommended to keep your foot on the clutch pedal, while the vehicle is moving, even if it is in the free play area. Unknowingly, you can put pressure on the pedal and the clutch tends to slip even with this light pressure on the pedal.
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Old 12th September 2012, 22:51   #7222
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

Had to fill Shell diesel(65/litre) as tank was near totally empty and trusted bunks are not nearby, and the tdci engine is raring to go and how!

The engine sound seems to be muted. Anyone felt the same?
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Old 13th September 2012, 03:53   #7223
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by ramzsys View Post
Had to fill Shell diesel(65/litre) as tank was near totally empty and trusted bunks are not nearby, and the tdci engine is raring to go and how!

The engine sound seems to be muted. Anyone felt the same?
Are you sure? Everytime I fill at shell (usually only out of emergency when nothing is available), the engine sounds and feels like a tractor.

The Figo is the least happy on Shell diesel with diesel clatter increasing and performance going down perceptibly.
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Old 13th September 2012, 12:14   #7224
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by Vid6639 View Post
Are you sure? Everytime I fill at shell (usually only out of emergency when nothing is available), the engine sounds and feels like a tractor.
.
Whoa. I felt exactly the reverse. The clatter noise was virtually absent(except for when driving it brisk). I even parked it in a silent area and heard it, engine sound was totally different. I filled at Hosur road-near Bosch.

PS: this is in a BS IV fiesta classic.
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Old 13th September 2012, 19:42   #7225
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighOctane View Post
I sometimes press and hold clutch for sometime when I there is slow traffic and at this time lift leg on the accelarator pedal. Will this wears out clutch soon ?

While driving if we keep our leg on clutch till free play. Is this not good?
Completely depressing the clutch does not cause wear but this practice is not advisable. you lose engine braking when the clutch is completely depressed.
Your feet should ideally be on the floor or on the dead pedal not on the clutch. Old cars had a lot of freeplay but modern cars the free play is limited and accidental press heare and there can cause the clutch to slip and cause wear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A350XWB View Post
As far as I know, depressing the clutch fully should not cause harm. But it is advisable to shift to neutral if you have to do this for a prolonged period. Also, it is not recommended to keep your foot on the clutch pedal, while the vehicle is moving, even if it is in the free play area. Unknowingly, you can put pressure on the pedal and the clutch tends to slip even with this light pressure on the pedal.
I agree completely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ramzsys View Post
Whoa. I felt exactly the reverse. The clatter noise was virtually absent(except for when driving it brisk). I even parked it in a silent area and heard it, engine sound was totally different. I filled at Hosur road-near Bosch.

PS: this is in a BS IV fiesta classic.
Isnt that the same engine in the Figo. Hey guess what it could be the climate and not really the Shell. I am not sure about whether the Shell Diesel can actually reduce clatter because we do not have Shell in Kochi, Kerala.
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Old 17th September 2012, 00:28   #7226
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Expect the parcel by tuesday.

Also, I hope the gasket works for you, but from my own DIY experience, I am doubtful.

Here is my 6 months solution for Doors / Dickies noises.
Just coat this part (http://static.traderscity.com/board/...-striker-1.jpg)
with 3-5 layers of PVC electric Insulation Tape.

If the noise persists, add layers. If door becomes hard to open, reduce.

This kills the "play" between the door and the body and kills the noise.

The tape wears out in 6 months or so. Replace it.
Applied the electrical tape on the door striker but it didn't solve the squeaking issue. It might solve the door rattle though. And thanks a ton to you for your great effort, the gasket is working like a charm

Cut it in desired length and degreased it with water and mild shampoo and pasted it on similar width double sided mounting tape.

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Then pasted it on the body, where the door rubber beading comes in contact of the body, around all four door frames (upper part - above the window sill). Its quite difficult to stick it on a right and straight line due to curves (where it is stuck) and the bends (of the body frame).

Though it might not look factory finish and eye pleasing but yes, its working like a charm for now (fingers crossed) and the door squeak in my car is gone and I am happy! Also, this strip is visible only when the doors are open and its hidden when they are closed.

Also, this DIY would only be useful to solve the creeking noise due to rubber beading. It wont solve door rattle of any kind!

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On a different note, I have applied ARMOR ALL® Original Protectant on the rubber beading all around and I could feel that they have become nice and supple!

Last edited by Blow Horn Ok : 17th September 2012 at 00:41.
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Old 17th September 2012, 03:05   #7227
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Default Advice needed - battery light remains on

Everyone, either I am imagining things or something is not right, so I thought I would just post it here:

When I turned the key in to the second position (further turning would start the engine) to wait for the two sets of chimes, all lights on dashboard glowed for the first set of chimes and then the lower 4 lights continued to glow for the second set of 4 chimes (the oil-light, the handbrake signal, the battery light and the light that looks like engine)

No I remember that earlier it used to be three lights - the battery light wouldn't keep glowing after all 8 chimes were finished. I may be wrong, and hence the question - should I take the car for a check?


Once I start the engine all lights go away, as earlier.
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Old 17th September 2012, 07:21   #7228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vina
Once I start the engine all lights go away, as earlier.
Everything is A Ok
The battery light keeps glowing. The handbrake light should be off unless the handbrake is on. Otherwise its just 3 lights- battery, engine and oil that stay on till you start the engine. This confusion happens as you can see in my case if you check my earlier posts in this thread

Something is wrong only when the light glows after engine start otherwise everything is just fine.
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Old 17th September 2012, 08:42   #7229
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

In my Figo, earlier the fuel filler cap could not be removed from outside without engaging the cabin switch but now it seems we can easily open it with force. Anyone knows how to fix it? I hope am clear!
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Old 17th September 2012, 12:39   #7230
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Default re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by akshay380 View Post
In my Figo, earlier the fuel filler cap could not be removed from outside without engaging the cabin switch but now it seems we can easily open it with force. Anyone knows how to fix it? I hope am clear!
I have the same problem and couldn't find a solution yet. The design of the fuel filler cap is the culprit here. Eventhough it is cable operated, they have provided a big enough notch which helps in pulling out the cap easily, if you use some force. And I don't think that the lock mechanism is sturdy enough to withstand this force.
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