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Old 20th July 2017, 23:16   #10576
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by kapilsharma80
They have robbed many figo owners by asking them to replace yhe injectors @ Rs 20,000 per unit.
Rs. 20k each ?

One of my friend owns a similar era Figo D.

He too had to change all 4 injectors. But as far as I can recall, he paid Rs. 28k or such for the entire work (4 injectors).

Quote:
Originally Posted by kapilsharma80
All their dealerships claim that bad fuel quality is the culprit but why isn't this bad fuel affecting other brand cars?
He was told the same. He too argued on Fuel filter changed at right time and others were not effected. He was told Ford would have done it free if he had extended warranty. Which he didn't hence ended up paying from Pocket.
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Old 23rd July 2017, 16:09   #10577
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Quick Update:
Did the 50k kms Service on Monday at Eureka Ford Saligramam Chennai & the bill worked out to Rs.4375 including GST.
This is after a flat 25% discount and free oil filter.

Got the alignment and rotation done separately at Padmavathy Tyres, Virugambakkam. The tyres are good enough to take the next 10-15k kms. The contis have held up quite well. Currently 45k kms run with them.

Note:
As I sold the car to a very good friend of mine, and him staying very close to my house, I accompanied him for the service and will try to keep this thread updated. It might be of some help to others and for my friend too if he needs help.
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Old 25th July 2017, 16:05   #10578
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by fiat_tarun View Post
I just started facing the problem of belt squeal for about 10 seconds during cold starts on my 2013 Figo D. The car has run ~55k km. Anybody have more info on what this could be? Do I need to get this checked immediately ?
With Sai Sakshi Ford closing down, I had to go all the way to the new Dhone Ford service centre in Warje (Pune). The SA on observation said the auxillary belt has become hard and needs to be replaced and further on checking the dampner pulley, said it has play and will also need to be changed.

The dampner pulley was not in stock, so will get the work done this weekend. Estimate given is Rs.3k for the pulley and ~Rs.750 for the belt.
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Old 25th July 2017, 16:17   #10579
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by interc00led View Post
Front wheel stud replacement will require removal of the hub so the wheel bearing must be replaced at the same time. Rear wheel studs can be replaced easily without having to change the bearing. Each wheel stud with nut costs around 200rs. Front wheel bearing is 1000rs per piece. Lathe charges(for front wheel studs) will be around 300-500. Mechanic labor charges should be another 500rs.
Studs 200x16=3200
Bearings (if damaged during removal)= 2000
Lathe charges=500
Mechanic labor= 500
I suggest you to replace only what's needed and avoid replacing all 16 studs as it will prove to be quite costly and unnecessary. If the front wheel studs are in good shape then avoid touching it as it requires the services of a lathe shop (hydraulic press to remove hub).

If you stay near LB nagar/ Balapur area, I can introduce you to my mechanic. Send me a PM if interested.

No need to spend so much ! there is no need for any lathe to remove/fit the wheel studs, also no need to change any bearing , i got a few studs changed at a ford service centre it was under an hour job , and it cost around 500 rupees !
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Old 30th July 2017, 01:54   #10580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techn0l0gist View Post
No need to spend so much ! there is no need for any lathe to remove/fit the wheel studs, also no need to change any bearing , i got a few studs changed at a ford service centre it was under an hour job , and it cost around 500 rupees !
If the wheel stud isn't siezed and can be driven out by light hammering then well and good, no need to remove the hub or bearing. An air hammer makes this job a lot easier.
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Old 30th July 2017, 20:55   #10581
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

My Figo has done 80,000 kms now. Of late I am hearing khad khad sound from suspension while going on rough roads. It is not prominent though. One has to listen carefully to distinguish from usual suspension sound. This sound does not come while passing on speed breakers. Went to one local garage and the guy says its steering rods that has developed play. He said I should change both sides rods. Total quote is for 10,000 for parts + labor.

What is your take on the analysis?
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Old 30th July 2017, 23:39   #10582
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
My Figo has done 80,000 kms now. Of late I am hearing khad khad sound from suspension while going on rough roads. It is not prominent though. One has to listen carefully to distinguish from usual suspension sound. This sound does not come while passing on speed breakers. Went to one local garage and the guy says its steering rods that has developed play. He said I should change both sides rods. Total quote is for 10,000 for parts + labor.

What is your take on the analysis?
According to me the analysis is spot on but the quote is exhorbitant. You can check with FASS and the total cost should be approx 4k to 4.5k if the problem is only with the link rods. I had got them replaced in my old figo and they costed ~3500/- for both the link rods and 500/- for labour.
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Old 9th August 2017, 20:59   #10583
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
Went to one local garage and the guy says its steering rods that has developed play. He said I should change both sides rods. Total quote is for 10,000 for parts + labor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by auto_enthusiast View Post
According to me the analysis is spot on but the quote is exhorbitant. You can check with FASS and the total cost should be approx 4k to 4.5k if the problem is only with the link rods. I had got them replaced in my old figo and they costed ~3500/- for both the link rods and 500/- for labour.
Went to Ford A.S.S. today. The initial comment was tie rods are gone but during test ride I casually mentioned about steering ball joints and he added them to the list of items that need to be replaced. Total estimate for parts only given to me was 10,600. I reluctantly agreed.

But after couple of hrs the SA called and said steering rack is leaking oil and I should change that too! Cost 13,000. Also, he mentioned if I change steering rack, then I need not replace ball joints and link rods as the steering rack comes with these parts and that would save me money. I did not like these adding up of items so I said leave replacement of link rods and only replace tie rods. Looks like only the tie rod replacement was needed. The sound is no more. But during checking seems they misaligned steering wheel. Now it is off center while driving straight.

Another issue discovered today was leaking fuel pipe. It was spraying diesel in the engine compartment. They quoted part price as 5,200. I feel this is exorbitant. Seems all the ads Ford showing on TV are false. Fords are expensive to maintain. He justified saying it is the whole assembly that needs to be replaced right from fuel tank all the way to engine.

For now I declined to replace it. I have put in an m-seal there and it looks like it is holding up. Let's see how long it lasts. Do you see any issue with m-seal? Any other way to plug the leak?
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Old 9th August 2017, 21:06   #10584
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
Went to Ford A.S.S.
I suggest you find a competent local FNG and get it checked. Parts could be costly as assembly but many times Fangs source the individual parts from scrap etc and it works out very cheap.
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Old 10th August 2017, 12:21   #10585
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

One issue I need suggestions for. The remote keys on my Ford Figo 2011 requires multiple presses to either lock or unlock for some days now. I am suspecting it could be a weak battery (I am assuming this is operated by battery). What could be the cause and how best to fix this niggling issue? Thanks in advance.
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Old 16th August 2017, 10:41   #10586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtonsing View Post
One issue I need suggestions for. The remote keys on my Ford Figo 2011 requires multiple presses to either lock or unlock for some days now. I am suspecting it could be a weak battery (I am assuming this is operated by battery). What could be the cause and how best to fix this niggling issue? Thanks in advance.
Mine is a 2010 figo petrol and I started facing this issue last year. I replaced the battery which costed my 40 bucks. This issue has surfaced again now.

You can try replacing the battery and mind you get it from any electrical shop.

Due to the recent rains, my figo was flooded with water till the seat!

Yesterday I cleaned it as much as possible and started and it did start. However today it is just not starting. Guess battery is dead.

Tried contacting Lathangi and was told it has shut shop for good! Called Cartisan in Jayanagar and they are on their way to take the car for service and cleaning.

Hoping to have a nice experience for the first time with a non ford service center.

Last edited by GTO : 17th August 2017 at 09:08. Reason: Merging back to back posts
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Old 16th August 2017, 11:10   #10587
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by sumathindra View Post
Due to the recent rains, my figo was flooded with water till the seat!

Yesterday I cleaned it as much as possible and started and it did start. However today it is just not starting. Guess battery is dead.

Tried contacting Lathangi and was told it has shut shop for good! Called Cartisan in Jayanagar and they are on their way to take the car for service and cleaning.

Hoping to have a nice experience for the first time with a non ford service center.
Water till the seat means, the exhaust would have filled with water. When it started , did it start normally and idle?
The safest thing to do is tow the car to the service centre or workshop before attempting to start in cases like this.

When attempting to start today, did it crank or it was dead?
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Old 16th August 2017, 11:36   #10588
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Water till the seat means, the exhaust would have filled with water. When it started , did it start normally and idle?
The safest thing to do is tow the car to the service centre or workshop before attempting to start in cases like this.

When attempting to start today, did it crank or it was dead?
Last evening it started in one go. Did a lot of idling and then took it for a spin as well. Today it cranked and then i did not push it much. The cartisan folks came and they will be jump starting it.
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Old 16th August 2017, 11:57   #10589
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Originally Posted by sumathindra View Post
Mine is a 2010 figo petrol and I started facing this issue last year. I replaced the battery which costed my 40 bucks. This issue has surfaced again now.

You can try replacing the battery and mind you get it from any electrical shop.
Last couple of days, it is working normally again. I will replace the battery anyway, just as a precaution. Any idea how to open the key? There is a small indentation at the back, just above (or below) the ford logo. Is it that?

You mentioned Lathangi closed shop. I could see their Hosur Road service station is also closed for some time. Are they closing across Bangalore?
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Old 16th August 2017, 12:18   #10590
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Default Re: Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010)

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Last couple of days, it is working normally again. I will replace the battery anyway, just as a precaution. Any idea how to open the key? There is a small indentation at the back, just above (or below) the ford logo. Is it that?

You mentioned Lathangi closed shop. I could see their Hosur Road service station is also closed for some time. Are they closing across Bangalore?
First, get a battery, I think it's CR 3022. Shouldn't cost more than 70 bucks. Push a screw driver or something in the tiny slot on other side of the key, below Ford Logo and slowly push. The fob opens. Then just open the key by unlocking the clip-on locks. Take care not to drop the inside circuit. Lift the battery again using a plastic pin or screw driver and replace. Reverse the order to put everything back.
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