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Old 9th March 2010, 13:52   #16
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Congrats on the new i10 mate!

The issue of the engine revving on its own doesn't seem to be an issue after all. I had the same problem in my Spark. On talking to the A** they say ECU does that, and it is nothing that we should be concerned about.

I'm still searching for a technical answer, will definitely let you know once I find out!
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Old 9th March 2010, 17:53   #17
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Post 13_point_someone

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
I love my i10 !!
.....

Q :07: I had a query about quick-er shifting. How do I mix/overlap actions (clutching-release Acc-clutch depressing-Acceleration) order to get quicker shifts (quick as in fastest clutch release). If I try to shift faster, it results in a tad-more jerkier shift.
Any pattern/sequence to shift faster?

BTW,
I am done with Half tank of Petrol (as per the FI, which's not exactly accurate, I know), and clocked 250kms with that, so approxing it out, we can say, 13.8ish average kmpl. and that comes with:
20 percent revvier driving+
30 percent sedate driving+
30 percent experimental/learner type driving (bro driving)+
20 percent city&highway driving.
.....

Ya, Post #12 > is latest mileage update from my side!
13_point_something to begin with, does promise a good FE later on, I guess /fingers crossed/.

@Narayan !
Congratulations on coming in i10 family !
Can I expect a review n write up right away !?
being a Senior bhpian, needless to say, you must have checked in with PDI and rest of the formalities!, if not ensure that too!

One more tip from my side> Inspect the leather+trims carefully too!
<My rear seat leather is missing a 2 inch stitch ! :haww:>
that is going to get fixed in Service#01 (coming up in a month, that is..)

Also, don't forget>
Enjoy the car, and take good care of her!

@eagle_bush

Thanks for your wishes!
If its indeed the ECU (!), then cant it be fixed with some programming ?
It sure sounds odd, when we are dead stand-still and revving at nice 1500- to even-2000 !!
Besides, that's quite unnecessary wastage of fuel too! (very minor concern though)

I am also searching for the solution.
Will bring it on my write up once I get some agree-able solution.


Care.

Ace.

Last edited by driverace : 9th March 2010 at 17:59.
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Old 19th March 2010, 08:51   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Q.01: There is a tick-tick sound at idling rpm i.e. factory set 800 rpm ( or upto 1100 rpm), what is this sound?
-It goes away when the car is doing higher revs, but immediately returns on rpms below 1100.
-I went to service centre, they say, Its there in all i10s !!, I checked a i10 sport there, it was in it too!! (it was brand new, Temp registration car)
@blackasta: thought of the EPS motor myself at first too. It may also be something with the AC you only notice when things are quiet

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Q.02: The gear shift from 1 > 2 is somewhat tougher and clickier than 2 > 3 , or 3 > 4 , or other shifts!
this seems to be experience of many i10-ians., and also, it seems to be solved either by 100-200 kms, or in the 1st servicing!
I am not clear about the problems-root.
Why is it so?
Facing the same clunkier gear shift myself. Need to get it checked out myself at first service. Don't worry about it though, its just the stick, not the gears themselves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Q.03: How much heat on the gauge is normal say for 1 hr running with / without A/c ?
Never had it greater than 70% of the way up even after driving for hours in the sun

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Q.04: The car idling rev go up when i engage full clutch - say while coasting over a speed breaker, or say when I am reversing, and I stop to take a look, but this occurrence is very random!
(My leg is definitely off the Accelerator while I find this happen)

The answer I found was, -Injectors may need cleaning.. (source -tbhp)
Another was -- Valve setting need to be done (some dirt getting stuck or such issue)
I'm going to simplify the mechanics of it all for this one, hope it comes off right. When you're running your car in (whichever) gear, the engine works against the resistance of your transmission, the wheels, the grip of the road. When under such conditions, you suddenly put it in neutral, the resistance disappears & you get a surge of revs on the tacho. This can't be altered by any ECU changes unless you want to set your idle limit even further down. Its absolutely normal. I even get it when i floor the pedal in 1st & then shift to 2nd.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Straight went off the the Pump station to get my tyres checked for pressure (had not checked since getting it out of showroom! :oops)
filled upto 33 F & R ( Rear R - had 21 !! Woaahhh, rest 30s)
Crap, forgot to do this myself!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
The manual shows that, in the "Run-in" period, we need to drive between 2000-4000 rpm range (!) ~ As discussed in another thread, I conclude, that we can shift from 2000 and limit the rpm to below 4000.
For all practical purpose, shift up when you see the tacho hitting 2000-2500 in the run-in period & in city conditions, your FE should increase, but, you'll also be shifting down a lot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Another thing I would like to say:
We can wear thin soled shoes to get a better and more precise feedback of the throttle/clutch/brake.
I was using trek-mountain-climbing shoes, and I was feeling the pedals much better than the normal thick soled plastic footwear.
You'll be even better barefoot Wearing thicker soles will inadvertently also decrease your FE (I'm not saying it, my driving instructor had once mentioned it). The bigger the shoes, the more the chances to mess up in the footwell between the pedals. Wear size 10ers myself & once when i wore my a-cube running shoes, stupidly pressed on the accelerator along with the brake. Was thankfully able to correct it quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
Q :07: I had a query about quick-er shifting. How do I mix/overlap actions (clutching-release Acc-clutch depressing-Acceleration) order to get quicker shifts (quick as in fastest clutch release). If I try to shift faster, it results in a tad-more jerkier shift.
Any pattern/sequence to shift faster?
Do whatever you're doing smoothly. When you've shifted the gear, initially leave the clutch only to the friction point to avoid the jerk. Then, accelerate to keep your speed steady before you leave the clutch completely. It seems like a lot now, will be cake-walk for you later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
If its indeed the ECU (!), then cant it be fixed with some programming ?
It sure sounds odd, when we are dead stand-still and revving at nice 1500- to even-2000 !!
Besides, that's quite unnecessary wastage of fuel too! (very minor concern though
If its anything more a momentary increase, get it checked. And yes, the car can be tuned to the right idle limit (Many taxis alter this to 600rpm to save on fuel)


Congrats on the i10. Everyone's right, the white does look amazing. Drive safe
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Old 19th March 2010, 11:52   #19
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Post Roger that

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace
Q.01: There is a tick-tick sound at idling rpm i.e. factory set 800 rpm ( or upto 1100 rpm), what is this sound?
-It goes away when the car is doing higher revs, but immediately returns on rpms below 1100.
-I went to service centre, they say, Its there in all i10s !!, I checked a i10 sport there, it was in it too!! (it was brand new, Temp registration car)


@blackasta: thought of the EPS motor myself at first too. It may also be something with the AC you only notice when things are quiet
Well, I am positive about the sound being absent at higher rpms, will test more acurately this sunday, and let you know the exact rpm where the sound cuts off.

@gear shift being clickier/clunkier! and Heat gauge.
My observation is similar. will talk with dealer at Service#01 (Due next month), and will share here too.

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace
Q.04: The car idling rev go up when i engage full clutch - say while coasting over a speed breaker, or say when I am reversing, and I stop to take a look, but this occurrence is very random!
(My leg is definitely off the Accelerator while I find this happen)

The answer I found was, -Injectors may need cleaning.. (source -tbhp)
Another was -- Valve setting need to be done (some dirt getting stuck or such issue)


I'm going to simplify the mechanics of it all for this one, hope it comes off right. When you're running your car in (whichever) gear, the engine works against the resistance of your transmission, the wheels, the grip of the road. When under such conditions, you suddenly put it in neutral, the resistance disappears & you get a surge of revs on the tacho. This can't be altered by any ECU changes unless you want to set your idle limit even further down. Its absolutely normal. I even get it when i floor the pedal in 1st & then shift to 2nd.
I am thorough with the part you have mentioned here.
About the load on the crank before/after pressing clutch.
But, then, has it been there in all cars till date!?
I cited, modding the ECU, only to counter the reason given by many, that ECU causes that.

Another part of question is TPS. or IAC is that not being taken care of, the very instant the load is reduced?
I think, it should be corrected much faster than it is.

Share your thoughts on the same.

@footwear,
faced the thick_soled_shoe syndrome the very first drive with my i10 homecoming!!
So, I strictly wear good footwear, at least till I tuneup well with my car!

@shifting
I do use the 2K-2.5K shift rpms towards the 2.5K side mostly :P
that helps in lesser downshifts.
will try the shift tip given by you musicmaker.

Thank you for your wishes.

Care.

Ace.

Last edited by driverace : 19th March 2010 at 12:00.
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Old 19th March 2010, 15:21   #20
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Hi Driverace,

Congrats on your "Vanilla Icecream"...LOL ( thats a pretty intuitive name you thought up for the white color)

I somehow missed this thread and glad to note that you opted for the same color and M-series variant

Been pretty inactive on my white angel ( http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...omes-home.html) as its mostly used by wifey and in almost 15 months, my white angel has done only 6,000kms.

But, i am using it a bit more frequently offlate and i agree with you. Its a scorcher and it can fly provided driven right. Only regret is it should be shodded with fatter tyres. Do that immediately if you can afford it.

Have fun and keep updating this thread regularly with your experience and taste of your vanilla ice-cream
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Old 19th March 2010, 15:25   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobike008 View Post
Been pretty inactive on my white angel ( http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...omes-home.html) as its mostly used by wifey and in almost 15 months, my white angel has done only 6,000kms.
What?? Your car is being bored to death

Quote:
Originally Posted by mobike008 View Post
But, i am using it a bit more frequently offlate and i agree with you. Its a scorcher and it can fly provided driven right. Only regret is it should be shodded with fatter tyres. Do that immediately if you can afford it.
agreed with a big nod!
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Old 19th March 2010, 18:14   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackasta View Post
What?? Your car is being bored to death
I drive it mostly on Saturdays/Sundays, as Mon-Fri my Pete'd Viva gives me company and provides more fun than an i10 can ever give.

And, when i do drive the i10, i make sure the kms do clock and RPM's move from bottom to the redline. After all, the engine needs to get freed up even if the odo is chugging along
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Old 19th March 2010, 19:00   #23
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Post rpm:speed:gear!

dear i10/hyundai members, @blackasta, mobike, and all!
please give rpm:speed:gear figures.
i have posted mine in previous posts.

/thank you for the kind wishes/

care.

Ace.
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Old 23rd March 2010, 19:54   #24
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Post Mileage check!

Car Age: 40 days
Odo
reads: 370
TF (Tank Full)
Previous TF: @17km on Odo
This TF: @348
Fuel consumed upto this TF=23.43L

Therefore,
FE=(348-17)/23.43
..
FE=14.12

That's the first FE calculated! (with my bro and dad learning on it, and Me too doing advanced-rookie driving!) I think thats decent!

In those clicks,
City(actual city, and learning drives in Gears 1,2,3)=50%
Highway(actual highway+some spirited driving upto 4K rpms!+revvier down/up shifts)=50%

Care.

Ace.
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Old 30th March 2010, 23:00   #25
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Default Getting ready for service#01

My dear Vanessa*, gets ready for her Service#01 !!

It has been a smooth experience so far!
Initial mileage seems good too (14 point something).
No niggles (except for the ones in my review here, but again, they seem omnipresent with the Kappa!)

Now, I have the owner manual that says, all to be "I" that is, Inspect (if required then correct, repair or replace) in Service#01
Still, I wanted to ask, like engine oil, what other things are supposed to be changed or checked in more detail, in the best interests (long term)?

Please enlighten.

Care.

Ace.

*Vanessa- n. driverace's cars name.
origin. Vanilla +icecream, combined to Vanessa , plus sounds sweet

Last edited by driverace : 30th March 2010 at 23:03.
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Old 30th March 2010, 23:42   #26
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For i10, 1st service just means basic checks + washing and cleaning. Nothing is changed or replaced unless you explicitly mention some problem to be rectified. The oil change is done at 10K.
So you can sit back and just report your issues. I also got my i10's oil change at 10K and the things went good.

Last edited by svaid : 30th March 2010 at 23:43.
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Old 30th March 2010, 23:45   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driverace View Post
FE=14.12
That's the first FE calculated! (with my bro and dad learning on it, and Me too doing advanced-rookie driving!) I think thats decent!
Ace.
With or without AC? Or how much percentage of driving with AC. Also how much city and how much highway driving. 14.12 looks good for a brand new car.
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Old 31st March 2010, 10:09   #28
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Default Next Sunday appointment

Quote:
Originally Posted by svaid View Post
For i10, 1st service just means basic checks + washing and cleaning. Nothing is changed or replaced unless you explicitly mention some problem to be rectified. The oil change is done at 10K.
So you can sit back and just report your issues. I also got my i10's oil change at 10K and the things went good.
Ok,
But, I think I Would insist on Oil Chnage
Next oil change, lets see, by 10K.
Today I went to the Hyundai guy, and asked them about the "i-scan" and whether it can check for the TPS and Idle Air Control. and integration with ECM.
He agreed to show me the same on Sunday.
so, will update about what the i-scan says, about this whole idle rpm surge thing.
lets see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Live To Jive View Post
With or without AC? Or how much percentage of driving with AC. Also how much city and how much highway driving. 14.12 looks good for a brand new car.
Thank you, its with around 60% AC
and
Quote:
In those clicks,
City(actual city, and learning drives in Gears 1,2,3)=50%
Highway(actual highway+some spirited driving upto 4K rpms!+revvier down/up shifts)=50%
@livetojive, svaid

Please post your rpm Vs Speed in respective gears. (with A/c)

Care.

Ace.
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Old 14th April 2010, 01:19   #29
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Hi,

I am owning a I10 IRDE car for last two years and had covered around 10,000 kilometers so far. From the very initial days, I felt that the gears of I10 are not smooth compared Alto, Santro and Swift that I have driven once in a while earlier. Specifically I feel some obstruction/stickyness while moving from 2nd to 1st gear when the car is in motion. I had complained about he same during all the free services as well as paid services to Advaith Hyundai, Bangalore. But they seem to always adjust clutch setting or do nothing about it, but the problem continue to persist. I was hoping that the gear should get smoother as I complete more kilometers. But I face the problem even now. I would like to know if this gear problem is common in all I10 cars or is there something wrong with my car? How do I get this corrected? Complaining about to Hyundai service person does not seem to help.

My car 2year warranty is expiring by end of this month, hence a quick suggestion would help in case some part need to be replaced by Hyundai.

Regards,
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Old 9th May 2010, 21:48   #30
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Default Do Get it done.

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Originally Posted by netrife View Post
Hi,

I am owning a I10 IRDE car for last two years and had covered around 10,000 kilometers so far. From the very initial days, I felt that the gears of I10 are not smooth compared Alto, Santro and Swift that I have driven once in a while earlier.
...
Complaining about to Hyundai service person does not seem to help.
....
Well, As you might have read in this thread also:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...-report-3.html (i10 kappa sportz - 1 year/16K kms ownership report)
Make good use of feedback form!

My car 2year warranty is expiring by end of this month, hence a quick suggestion would help in case some part need to be replaced by Hyundai.

Regards,
Regarding driving other cars and comparing the shift to that of i10:
Are the shifting speeds/rpms same?
again do consider that you are comparing 0.8L car with your 1.1L
as for Swift<>i10, I too felt that my friends' Swift shift is smoother than my i10's shift!
But, I dismissed that off, considering that his swift is year old and has done around 15K on the odo.

I suggest you try shifting from 2nd to 1st again on more open patch, and check your shifting speeds (if above 20 kmph, that is really uncomfortable I know)
but, even if below 20kmph shifting is not as smooth as 1st-2nd, go back to Hyundai Service , and tell them you want the problem solved, and mention that your visit is due to the "problem" that exists and persists in your i10.

Do keep us updated too!

Care,

Ace.
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