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Old 19th September 2011, 23:05   #76
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As you know, the car has been serviced at Zenita Auto Works, Andehri East, Mumbai. Yesterday, I went for a good highway ride of 100 kms and observed the following:

The Ride feels "rough" (not wobbly or shaky) and NOT at all smooth like it was before the third service as:
  1. I can feel vibration on the steering as I accelerate
  2. I can feel vibrations in the gear shifter stick
  3. I feel the vibration on the floor, especially angled area just behind the clutch pedal, on LHS.
  4. I feel vibrations while accelerating on the gas pedal
  5. I feel vibrations on the clutch pedal
  6. I hear a humming sound which starts building over 60-80km/hr
The following may be the culprits:
  1. Improperly fitted adjusted manifold (please read the earlier few posts to gather a context/background). Although the rough sound has disappeared but the adjustment may be blocking a proper flow of exhaust gases
  2. Improperly cleaned/fitted/adjusted spark plugs as the trainee technician took them out to clean them with compressed air
  3. Improperly Balanced Wheels (Cant be as the tires have done only 3600 kms and were balanced at the dealer's workshop and things were working fine till the third service)
  4. Improper fitting of wheels on the rotor, as I hve done 5 Tyre rotation
  5. Improperly seated air cleaner
  6. ???
My car has run 8600kms only, so I dont see any new to clean the fuel injectors, throttle body cleaning, etc. The quality of fuel is trusted, as I have been refueling at a certain pump since a decade. The tires are in excellent shape, I have not screeched even once or done a drag etc.

I do not expect much help from Zenita Auto Works (MASS), as they already said that KB series are rough, however, my arguement is that all this while it went on smooth, then why after the third service it is giving problems?

My car as of now feels like Maruti 800's idling and ride quality. Just to give a super quick background:

I have changed the oil from the servo mineral oil to castrol magnatec semi synthetic 10w 40 and has been bought from an authorised dealer and has been changed in front of me.
The exhaust was making a very rough noise, so the middle part, which begins after the exhaust manifold was changed, (but not the latter exhaust pipe & canister). But after changing it, the noise prevailed. It was later diagnosed that the noise is coming from the exhaust manifold, the settings for which were adjusted during the 3rd service.

The spare wheel, has been brought in the front RHS. but never faced such issued when I rotated all 5 at 4800kms.

Last edited by karan1609 : 19th September 2011 at 23:18. Reason: Edited it within 15min
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Old 20th September 2011, 08:39   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karan1609 View Post
As you know, the car has been serviced at Zenita Auto Works, Andehri East, Mumbai. Yesterday, I went for a good highway ride of 100 kms and observed the following:

The Ride feels "rough" (not wobbly or shaky) and NOT at all smooth like it was before the third service as:
Check front wheel balancing once again, this time from a good tyre and wheel shop.
Few early AStars had engine mount issues as reported on UK forums. Check if your engine mounts are healthy.
What kind of sound and from where do you hear it from while speeding over 80kmph?
When you say exhaust manifold was adjusted do you know what kind of adjustment was made?

In my car i had got the exhaust manifold removed for deleting catcon and then it was fit straight back on; there is no scope for adjustment there as the holes are aligned by the studs. My car has run close to 10000kms so far and there is nothing out of the normal, it does vibrate at idle with ac on but thats it.
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Old 20th September 2011, 22:06   #78
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Sankar, I am told you have a ravishing looking A-Star. Can we see some pics here please? BTW, my A-Star's idling even with aircon on surprises me. Verry verry smooth. No hint, at all, of a 3-pot motor.
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Old 20th September 2011, 22:35   #79
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Check front wheel balancing once again, this time from a good tyre and wheel shop.
What kind of sound and from where do you hear it from while speeding over 80kmph?

When you say exhaust manifold was adjusted do you know what kind of adjustment was made?

In my car i had got the exhaust manifold removed for deleting catcon and then it was fit straight back on; there is no scope for adjustment there as the holes are aligned by the studs. My car has run close to 10000kms so far and there is nothing out of the normal, it does vibrate at idle with ac on but thats it.
I get to hear a deep humming (uhhmmmmm) sound over 60-80km/hr which kinda resonates in the cabin.

They fitted the L or C bracket which is fixed somewhere where the curve of the exhaust pipe towards the manifold starts.

I can feel the vibrations in the steering wheel (which are very different from the wobling kinda vibrations if the wheels are unbalanced).

Is it possible that the front RHS tire is brand new, which is causing the uneveness?or the vibrations?

Further, I have changed the engine oil to castrol magnatec, semi synthetic, 10W 40, but I do not feel any significant difference in the ride quality, smoothness, noise level etc. I bought it from an authorised dealer, sealed pack and was filled in front of me. The oil filter was changed of course. By any chance, is this the cause of the roughness?Any idea? I have driven around 150 kms since the oil change, is it too early?

Last edited by karan1609 : 20th September 2011 at 22:37. Reason: Forgot to add
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Old 21st September 2011, 14:18   #80
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Originally Posted by pgsagar View Post
Sankar, I am told you have a ravishing looking A-Star. Can we see some pics here please? BTW, my A-Star's idling even with aircon on surprises me. Verry verry smooth. No hint, at all, of a 3-pot motor.
Sagar its not at all ravishing, but it looks good with the alloys. I don't have an ownership thread, so i will create a gallery soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by karan1609 View Post
I get to hear a deep humming (uhhmmmmm) sound over 60-80km/hr which kinda resonates in the cabin.

They fitted the L or C bracket which is fixed somewhere where the curve of the exhaust pipe towards the manifold starts.

I can feel the vibrations in the steering wheel (which are very different from the wobling kinda vibrations if the wheels are unbalanced).

Is it possible that the front RHS tire is brand new, which is causing the uneveness?or the vibrations?

Further, I have changed the engine oil to castrol magnatec, semi synthetic, 10W 40, but I do not feel any significant difference in the ride quality, smoothness, noise level etc. I bought it from an authorised dealer, sealed pack and was filled in front of me. The oil filter was changed of course. By any chance, is this the cause of the roughness?Any idea? I have driven around 150 kms since the oil change, is it too early?
Regarding the oil change you will feel the change soon enough and it will be for the better. I have got the oil changed to Mobil 1, and the feel of the engine got better as the car logged on miles. The roughness you feel will not be due to the engine oil at all.

The RHS tire if balanced correctly will not induce any vibrations. If you're in doubt, swap the new tyre with one from the rear.

There already is a clamp on the catcon bulge, which secures the bulge to the engine block, that gives and additional support to the exhaust manifold. This wasn't tightened before? Surprising indeed. Guess its solved now.

I can't guess what the droning sould could be unless its bearing/transmission or some air leakage issue. I suggest you take it to another Dealer MASS, independent MASS or a good independent garage to analyse it.
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Old 4th December 2011, 21:20   #81
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Just got my car diagnozed at Autovista (MASS); the person who did it was very good at his job. He came along with me for the test drive and here were the fixes:

Rattle Causes:
1) Loose Calliper Pins (especially of the LHS). IF kicked, I could hear the rattle sound.
2) Radiator/condensor Hit the plastic covers
3) Play in the steering linkages

In future, he will have the steering rack opened and use a special grease that MAruti has suggested.

The humming sound over 60kmph till 70kmph was due to worn out front wheel bearings. These were changed under warranty. Voila, the sound has gone and the car is much more free rolling like when it was new. Surpisingly, infact, shockingly, it has just travelled 9600 Kms!!. These were replaced with bearings made by a company called "NBC".

Surprisingly, the LHS calliper has become loose yet again; just after driving 10kms! I have spoken to the guys at MASS and will get it replaced too! Crazy.

The list of replacement part is as follows:
  1. Headlight Pairs
  2. Exhaust Canister (centre)
  3. Rubber Beading x 4 doors
  4. Front Wheel Bearings (Pair)
  5. Tires x 4
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Old 5th December 2011, 10:40   #82
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[quote=karan1609;2599107]Just got my car diagnozed at Autovista (MASS); the person who did it was very good at his job. He came along with me for the test drive and here were the fixes:

The humming sound over 60kmph till 70kmph was due to worn out front wheel bearings.


The humming sound over 60kmph has to be the bearings. I had this replaced in my car just after the 20k service on the right front wheel free of cost under warranty. Could feel the sound increase on a fast right hand corner and almost disappear on a left hander. No issues post replacement, however now I have the metal grinding noise coming from the brake pads at speeds of 10 - 20 kmph. Visited MASS thrice and all they do is grind the pads, grease and refit. Noise disappears for a day only to reappear the next. Gotta replace the pads and check.

I've received your PM, I don't have an ownership thread, posting some pics of my ride as requested.
Experience A-Star (Read: Experience a star)-img00096201107191619.jpg

Experience A-Star (Read: Experience a star)-img00095201107191618.jpg

Experience A-Star (Read: Experience a star)-img00067201106191814.jpg

Experience A-Star (Read: Experience a star)-img00070201106240925.jpg
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Old 6th December 2011, 11:08   #83
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I know what you mean by the grinding/scraping noise when you brake. It happens in my car too. My guess is, althought it may not be accurate, that after a certain amount of braking, the brake dust gets accumulated on the discs, which results in the scraping noise. Once it cleans itself, it disappears. This especially happens if I have not driven for 1-2 days. I think it seems to by cyclical.

Glen, I envy you, as you have a good parkign facility. I have to park on the road and get one dent/scrape every other day due to careless motorists, especially bikers. Majority of the damage has been done while it was parked, whereas I have brushed it minorly just once in the last 1.5 yrs! Can you beat that? Although not very cearly visibile, the damage done by passers by (scratches), stone hits while driving, parking etc, my ride is in a good shape. I will post some pics soon. Btw, your ride looks fantastic. I too plan on covering my Bpillars with the blackout film. Where did you get it done and for how much? Is it 3M?
Plus, I am not sure if it will suit the Desert Brown shade.
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Old 8th December 2011, 23:32   #84
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My A-Star AC gives a typical 'soil'y smell when its switched on and it disappears after 1-2 minutes after the AC is kept on. Anyone faced the same problem(if its a problem)?

BTW great thread karan1609...bought the A-star LXI after reading this thread. Enjoying the car for the last 2.5 months.
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Old 8th December 2011, 23:52   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saion666
My A-Star AC gives a typical 'soil'y smell when its switched on and it disappears after 1-2 minutes after the AC is kept on. Anyone faced the same problem(if its a .
It's not a problem. I just love that smell. I have experienced it in both, my Santro & now palio.. comes mainly when I turn off the ac when it gets too cold and only keep the fan on.
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Old 9th December 2011, 09:36   #86
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I know what you mean by the grinding/scraping noise when you brake.
===============
Plus, I am not sure if it will suit the Desert Brown shade.
Karan, I'm not sure about the solution for the brake noise. After going through many threads and posts including http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...w-speed-2.html
Ive decided to change the pads as last resort. BTW the noise has reduced considerably off late, however is still present during first 10 - 15 mins of driving.

You need not be too envious about my parking space as I've had my own issues. What with people vandalizing my car inside the compound walls and stuff. The racing stripe you see on the bonnet is there only to cover up some loser's act of etching his name. While I was at a local sticker shop to get that covered up thought of blacking the B pillars as well. All together I would have paid around 300 - 400 bucks. Also crossed my mind to get the entire bonnet painted, but then that would invite more sketching on my car so decided to leave it with the stop gap arrangement. I'm not too sure if I'm gonna keep them for long for as per the sticker guys comments "There you go, now your car looks just like Swift". I was like "HuH, I dont want that".

Also another point is, there are lot of tiny dents which have come up on the doors due to bikers who give minor touches while taking out their bikes from the apartment. Makes me wonder,are those body panels so thin and bendable that getting a small dent is child's play? I'm sure you can get this done up, but it looks really sad especially after a polish.
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Old 12th December 2011, 12:41   #87
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It is very unfortunate that people deliberately scratch a car, may be out of jealousy, that you have been able to buy it, they have not! Similarly, reckless drivers, often bikers, who squeeze their bikes in tight spaces between two cars! I remember the paint getting peeled on the 4th day of purchase, on the rear bumper by a biker. I also have quite a lot of tiny dings on the boot lid (Handle and brake lever hits pattern). Thw worst being bikers scraping the front and rear bumper sides while I wait for the light to turn green!
Infact, a when there is a gap between my car and another one, reckless drivers try to squeeze in thier cars in this space, often creating dents and scratches, paint chip offs! It is crazy irritating! I mean come on, don't you have respect for someone else's property? During one such instance, a careless Xylo owner, tried squeezing in the tight space, and his rear foot support rammed into my car! The bumper deformed, and the crash bar (the horizontal bar) hidden behind the bumper has bent inward! just imagine! Gave him a mouthful!

W.r.t the braking noise, I wasn't sure if my assessment is accurate

W.r.t the AC smell, yup, it happens in my car too! It happens in my friends Swift, Wagon R and my old 800. It is kind of muddy and it does irritate you after some time. But goes if you switch the AC on, or switch the fan off! Sai, I am happy that my thread was helpful! I am planning to add some more photos of the current state the car is in, along with several niggles, etc that will help others.

Last edited by karan1609 : 12th December 2011 at 12:58. Reason: Added information
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Old 14th December 2011, 13:53   #88
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W.r.t the vibration/roughness felt in the steering, gear shifter and the pedals, I did some online research and found that one of the reasons could be worn out or defective engine mounts. Worn out engine mounts results in excess movement of the engine during pick up, cranking and switching off especially and of course over potholes and road undulations. The resultant of which is, the sides of the engine would hit other parts, thus not only would it get damaged, but also cause a rattle. Additionally and more importantly, the several other parts attached to it, I am sure have a certain degree of clearance, tolerance, for example the exhaust manifold pipes that run out from the front. In my car's case especially, the manifold pipes have started making a crazy noise when I press the gas, or when I downshift or go higher and accelerate, it is there in the initial acceleration.
Once I gave it for third servicing, the advisor informed that he has tightened a few bolts, and the noise actualy stopped, only to re-appear (however this time with a lower intensity) after 1000kms, which will only worsen.
Very soon, when I go to get my callipers replaced along with the pins, I will have the manifold inspected, and the engine mounts inspected throughly at Autovista (M.A. Dealer and SS). I will keep everyone posted.
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Old 16th December 2011, 11:42   #89
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Done! finally!

I went to the service station yesterday to have my cars calliper assembly replaced. However, this time around, they tried somethign new and have promised that it will solve it permanently. The service advisor called it "breezing" the calliper pins. The process involves cleaning the calliper pins x 4, filing it and wrapping the calliper pins with a thick copper wire, followed by packing it with calliper pin grease (TVS - Reddish brown) in tiny packets. Voila, the sound has gone, and the brakes feel smoother plus they are functioning perfectly fine. However, they have promised that if at all it reappears again, they will replace it for sure this time.

Now, the only rattle that remains is from the front bumper, as I believe that the engine guard, placed infront of the belts hits the condensor coil, as well as the bumper. Will hunt for a permanent solution soon! The car feels really quiet and I love driving it once again. I checked 6 A-stars, and suprisingly all of them had the same rattle from the left side (opp to the battery side) of the bumper.
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Old 17th December 2011, 18:17   #90
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I finally got my engine mounts checked. Luckily they seem to be in a good condition. I really do not know if it is psychological, the vibrations in the steering wheel, regardless of whether the car being idle or running, but appearing when I start accelerating have reduced to an extent.

Second, the vibrations in the accelerator pedals still exist. I checked it at Zenita just yesterday, and he said that I can request a replacement under warranty. But I am not sure if I want to do it for a while. I have had several trips to fix the same problems! I also checked if excess tire pressure is causing the tires not to absorb the vibrations! But it makes no difference. The recommended pressure is 32psi x 4, but I keep it at 34 usually; tried 30, but made no difference infact the car screeches when braking from around 40 even during mild braking, so switched back to 34!
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