[San Phrangmung]

The drive out of town from Siliguri is a refreshing one as the Sevoke road is lined with trees on both sides cooling the air.

Driving slow following the uncountable number of tourist vehicles mostly Sumos and Mahindras, i crossed Sikkim Manipal Institute by mid day and continued towards Gangtok after the momo break. But the momos were so good that they dissapeared within minutes of leaving the restaurent.

I did not enjoy the drive much as the tempreture sored and had to open my t-shirt. At the Sikkim entry gate they just looked inside the car towards the back seat and let me pass, no questions asked. From here one has to turn left to Gangtok.

It did not take much time for me to reach Gangtok but the problem was where do i park to stay in MG Road.

The local traffic directed me to go two traffic points ahead and turn back from there to move into MG road parking. Once i reached MG road, a person directed me to turn upwards towards the left for parking. I climbed the narrow road only to find that there was a que from long back and i had crossed it & there was no way to back up. So went further up & saw another parking to the right but with a board saying only for taxis. So kept moving and came down to the main MG road a bit ahead and parked on the main road to figure out what to do.

Then walked towards the tourism office point looking for hotel Dzong, as the one near the parking place quoted a high price and did not like the surrounding anyways. Found the Dzong but the whole place was so crowded and the heat made me decide to go some place else, maybe Rumtek monestry side.

So drove down and filled up the tank once more asking for directions and driving time to Rumtek. On way entered the Mayfair resort and checked out a room. Must say the property is magnefisantly built but way out of my budget. On way out asked the persons manning the gate there how long to Darjeeling, given their answer i was not sure if i could make it to Darjeeling before sundown. So just drove down towards Teesta finally leaving Rumtek for some other day.

Once near Sikkim Manipal, called by cousin Imon to find out if he was free, he was so entered the complex and went to his hostel room. His room was more like a small hotel with attached bath. Freshened up and left the place soon as i had a long way to go and he had exam next day as well.

From here the journey upto Kalimpong was nice as there were not many vehicles on the road and the air cooled down too.

The last picture that you see here is the point where one has to turn right from the Gangtok road to Kalimpong. From this point the road was steep and full of blind curves. Had to drive slow and mostly in second gear here. On way stopped at a grocery store for a bottle of water as the sun started to dissapear in the horizon. The day was closing up and so was my drive for the day.

Just as i entered Kalimpong, saw a good hotel to the left. Stopped and checked their only available room. On way i saw someone who i thought had visited my store in Guwahati and remember her saying that her son studied in Kalimpong. The little kid was infact the customer purchasing hip hop cap and bandanas.

Anyways the place was clean and ok but location wise i wanted to see what other options were available in town. So kept driving till i reached the police station point and turned right as told by the cop on duty towards Elgin.

The Elgin reception fellow was very proud that all his rooms were booked. He opened his mouth to yes no answers as if he had mouth cancer and was in great pain.

So came out and talked to another hotel fellow that i met outside who nicely said, "Dada ki kore room debo bolentu, season time ar matro kurikhana room ase". He than suggested two places nearby and showed me the way. I thanked him for his help and drove upwards and finally reached Kalimpong Park hotel just as people were switching on the lights.

[San Phrangmung]

So i reached a nice looking hotel finally and they had just one room. Saw the room, was satisfied and to my surprise the reception guy gave a discount on room rate as well.

Once i got my stuff inside the room after parking the car as the officials had requested had to do just one thing, bath & really bath.
But before that ordered some french fries and veg sandwich to have along with a refreshing drink.

The food was not yet ready by the time i finished cleaning up. So took my drink and went to the varandah near the reception. A chair was empty but someones jacket was there. Took a round and next time it was not there so sat there and told the service guy to give the food there.

This place was what we call Assam type in Nort East & was quiet old. That tea garden bunglow feel was there even if the rooms were tiny. The sitting room and bar was kind of cute with an old world charm and that particular smell or air that i love.

The overall feel was nice to be sitting there with a glass of refreshers. Then the food arrived which i finished in no time and ordered another drink plus crispy fried chicken.

By the time the food arrived, the others in the varandah left for their respective rooms and i was all alone in the quietness. To my surprise new boarders were still arriving till quiet late and understood why i was told to park in a particular place. It seems people from Siliguri come to Kalimpong after finishing their office work as the journey is not that long.

After some time my food was finished and the mosquitos were having a good time attacking their single prey. So went back to the room and switched on the TV, which was fine but the remote won't work. Informed reception and after some time a guy came with another TV that matches the remote. I said no need to change the TV, just find the right remote if possible. So he went back and again came with three remote, one of which worked with the tv in room.

Unlike Siliguri the room was even cooler without any ac. So got inside the blankets and watched some undescript flick till the arrival of dinner, which was simple dal roti.

And this day i slept off in one go.

And what i see in the morning as i wake up.

Well here are the pictures:

[San Phrangmung]

One has to turn left at Teesta bridge towards Jorebunglow to go to Darjeeling. This road connects Ghoom near the railway station point.

[issigonis]

>>>

Nice pics.

In pic # 9, how helpful are the four spot beams in your Wagon R? How easy or difficult was it to install them?

It seems Assam Oil = Indian Oil, as the various brands of fuel are Indian Oil brands, viz. XtraMile and so on. Are there many BPCL petrol pumps in north Bengal, Sikkim, Assam? Did you notice BPCL pumps during your drive?

Seems the road to Gangtok is being repaired/widened ; traffic jams there too.
There is no barrier on the 'khud' side of the road - necessitates careful driving, particularly at night. How are the gradients on the road to Gangtok/Darjeeling? Very steep or simply steep or easy?

Lots of questions :-)
Regards, drive safe

[San Phrangmung]

Originally Posted by issigonis

>>>

Nice pics.

In pic # 9, how helpful are the four spot beams in your Wagon R? How easy or difficult was it to install them?

It seems Assam Oil = Indian Oil, as the various brands of fuel are Indian Oil brands, viz. XtraMile and so on. Are there many BPCL petrol pumps in north Bengal, Sikkim, Assam? Did you notice BPCL pumps during your drive?

Seems the road to Gangtok is being repaired/widened ; traffic jams there too.
There is no barrier on the 'khud' side of the road - necessitates careful driving, particularly at night. How are the gradients on the road to Gangtok/Darjeeling? Very steep or simply steep or easy?

Lots of questions :-)
Regards, drive safe

It was difficult to put the fog lights because of the placement, but they do help. There might be BPCL pump in Siliguri only in this area. The most trustworthy name in North East however is NRL (Numaligarh Refinery Limited).

Gangtok road is easy other than those narrow points which has to be negotiated carefully. Yes there are no side beams in most parts other than upto Coronation bridge. But since most of the road is wide enough for two large vehicles, its ok.

The road from Kurseong to Siliguri plains was however too narrow for even a single vehicle at times and no side beams as well anywhere.

The worst i have seen is however the road towards Tawang in Arunachal. The Government's reasoning to keep all Arunachal road that narrow and that bad is to slow down invading Chinese Army next time they come. Funny but true.

[San Phrangmung]

I did not take a single shot in Darjeeling nor the road upto Kurseong. Did not like the congested and dirty road after driving through the prestine road upto Ghoom from Kalimpong.

But one nice sight was that of everyone taking their kids to school. Remembered my little one back home as he will start going to school soon.

On Ghoom road had to take one left turn and one right after Teesta point. And before i hit the plains, had my breakfast at Hotel Norla after crossing Kurseong. Got some chowmein packed from here as well for the road upto Phultshiling.

[San Phrangmung]

These old criss cross bridges are the kind i love. And finally got to see a train in Dooars with the tea gardens in the background.

Had travelled on this line long long back after our journey from NJP was delayed and re-routed after blasting off of Rajdhani express by BLT/NDFB seperatists somewhere near Kokrajhar in Assam. Had travelled in a meter gauge train and in general compartment which was packed to the inch as stranded passengers of three four trains were put into this one.

Now they have stopped blasting passenger trains on this route but the line from Rangia to Rangapara and Murkokseleng is frequently targeted. Plus BLT has given up arms and a faction of NDFB has come overground to form Bodoland Autonomous Council within Assam.

But another group under Ranjan Daimary is still active and continue to extort money through a well established network. They also kidnap officials and businessman frequently for extortions. As mentioned by the Assam chief minister Tarun Gogoi in a press conference yesterday.

Recently three WWF workers were kidnapped by NDFB but released after ransom was paid. While as few tea community people were released after warnings by tea tribes student bodies. The latest incident was of a truccker being demanded 5000 Rs by six armed youths in three bikes near Assam West Bengal border. He was roughed up as he had only 500 Rs and was warned to pay up the next time he came.

Therefore one should be very careful while travelling through areas where these outfits are believed to be active. So before you enter Assam from Bengal, do take stock of the situation and if required wait for a day in Alipurduar or some other place nearby.

[San Phrangmung]

For locations please refer to my page in Panoramio:

Panoramio - Photos by San Phrangmung

The road in these parts were preety good, no potholes at all till Hasimara. But one has to be careful for local slow moving traffic or people sitting on roadsides.

[San Phrangmung]

The only big point on this part of the route is Chalsa as far as accomodation is concerned. Sinclairs Dooars being the upper end and lodges inside as well as in the vincity of Gorumara National Park in budget catagory.

Or else one has to go all the way upto Lava through DumDim.





This is where i had to turn left towards Hasimara. And the place to turn right while going to DumDim / Coronation bridge.

[San Phrangmung]

So after crossing Darjeeling and Siliguri, i arrive at the point from where one needs to take a left turn to reach Jaigaon and enter the Kingdom of Bhutan through Phultshiling.

Surprisingly there is no market or police point here, so this place could easily be missed. Specially while coming from Assam, there is no sign pointing towards Jaigaon or mentioning Bhutan road anywhere. While coming from Guwahati i had crossed this place without knowing that Bhutan was this close. Otherwise i might have spent a night in Phultshiling the very first night.

Anyways just remember that Jaigaon road is after crossing Jaldapara gate if you are coming from Siliguri side.

[San Phrangmung]

There is one right and one left turn plus a railway crossing on this road. Once you enter Jaigaon keep going straight till you reach the Bhutan gate to turn right.

Stop at the gate and let the guard know your purpose of visit and if required open the trunk. Than off you go and take the second left turn and again second right to reach the town centre with prayer wheel. Park your car as per alloted space availability, look around for a hotel of your liking and check in. Its that simple, remember no documents are to be made if you want to stay in Phultshiling only.

So spend the night there and return the next day or you can get the papers made for the journey to Thimphu and beyond if the office is open still or get it done next day morning.

Bring your passport or else you have to go to Indian consulate for extra paper work.

Exit time from Phultshiling to India is 6 am. So can't get out before that.

[San Phrangmung]

The town of Phultshiling is frequented by Indians from Siliguri and neighbourhood mostly for a single night visit. Otherwise the only tourist there are those spending a night here before onward journey. The shops here are filled with clothing from Bangladesh and Thailand mostly. But given the quality majority seems to be factory rejects. But if you are lucky might find some good quality export surplus.

[San Phrangmung]

The last time i visited Phultshiling was sometime in 1987-88 during summer holidays as a school kid. My late father was working in Goalpara so had crossed Panchatantra to Jogighopa in a ferry with our old Amby along.

Back then we had stayed in Hotel Druk, so naturally i searched for the hotel but without remembering the name. After few turns and asking a guy showed me the place as per my enquiry of the hotel has parking inside its boundery.

Unfortunately they had no rooms other than the suite. So a night at Druk hotel remains pending. Just as dad had taken me there, maybe next time i will take his grand son to Phultshiling for a memorable stay at Druk!

[San Phrangmung]

Jaigan to Hasimara turn point photographs. This road is in good condition and it does not take much time to reach NH 31-C.

Near the railway crossing there are small shops where you can have chai puri or pick up a water bottle.

[amrisharm]

Great write-up and great pics! being a resident of darjeeling i.e, kurseong and siliguri, i am sure i will come across your unique coloured wagonR soon enough. I just have a small request. Could you give details of where you stayed and the prices for the rooms if you can remember them please ?