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Old 17th June 2011, 16:10   #31
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Here's my version of the Tigress emerging out with the kill - got her eye contact again.
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-img_3851edit.jpg

Could get a stable shake free sharp image despite the low light due to the superb high ISO performance of my body.
Although this image still has some amount of noise, i am yet to edit this through a noise reduction algorithm. The final processed image will be noise free.

Dr. A Ghosh

Last edited by abheekg : 17th June 2011 at 16:18.
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Old 17th June 2011, 16:39   #32
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

@Nilanjanray: 5 stars from my end. Sightings @Bandhavgarh has just got better as the summer's gone by as various posts suggest. Though had tiger sightings at B'garh (last week of Mar2011), we were unlucky to get detailed sightings like you had. Have been a witness to planning of Abheekg @pench and have had great sightings out there.

@Abheekg: Enjoyed Golden oriole & vulture in flight. Great capture apart from your usual tiger shots.

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Last edited by Rudra Sen : 17th June 2011 at 19:24.
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Old 17th June 2011, 19:36   #33
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

I had always wanted to go to the MP forests for many years. It seemed everyone had gone there (including my brother) and seen loads of tigers. I am a big fan of shikar and wildlife stories, so wanted to see and click the tiger at close distance (I was fed up with elephants). Didn't have rifle, so what? Had a D90 + 70-300mm lens, and pretty steady hands.

The seed was planted on a rainy afternoon in Masinagudi last year, and the plan took shape over an year. After stops and starts, the dates were frozen. After extensive research (TBHP, Tripadvisor, Indiamike), I selected Baghira at Kanha and Treehouse at Bandhavgarh. Main criteria for selection:
1. Near or inside the jungle, with a good balcony or sit out
2. With AC.

I had reached out to various folks to get their inputs…Dr. Abheek Ghosh helped wth inputs and driver bookings, while HV Kumar helped with route and long drive inputs. I also made a checklist of things to do and carry. Though most of them were not required, they were there as an insurance policy e.g. pipe, jerrycan, phone numbers of top cops in each state we would be passing through, extra coolant and engine oil etc. I practiced changing the tires of my behemoth – sweat more in peace so that you bleed less in war and all that. Had planned to work out extensively before the trip (fitness, feel good factor), but that didn’t happen due to work pressure and fatigue (not to mention laziness when I did have some time).

The first day would have been my longest drive (~ 1150 km in a day) till date, so was somewhat apprehensive regarding fatigue. It didn’t help that I didn’t get the planned sleep the week before the drive started. We were leaving on Sat early morning, I could manage 5 hours of sleep on Thursday night, 1 hour of sleep on Fri afternoon (forced sleep) and 2-3 hours disturbed sleep on Friday night from 11 pm – 2 am. My friend was supposed to come to my place (he was flying down from Mumbai) around 11, and we were supposed to start at 3 am. His flight got delayed, so I ended up picking him up from the Bangalore airport, on the way.

Diesel was filled and tyre pressures were checked the day before. I had bought energy bars, dry fruits, water, juice and Red Bull for the journey and kept them in the car. Woke up at 2 AM on Saturday and was on the road by 3 AM after last minute packing. Reached the airport (55km from my house) in 45 minutes, but then had to wait for 30 min till my friend came to the car. It was 4.15 AM when we started from Bangalore airport. After getting onto NH7, I stopped and unmasked by Lightforce spots – absolutely empty highway that time, and I wanted to drive fast and utilize the early morning hours, covering as many kms as possible.

Initial plan was to reach Hyderabad by 10 AM, and reach Nagpur by 5-6 AM. We stopped for breakfast at a dhaba 75 kms from Hyderabad around 8.20 – we had made great time. After a 40 min break, we hit Hyderabad, passed through the bypass/Hyderabad outer ring road and was on NH7 at Medchal at around 11.30 AM.

As I have mentioned, I had very little sleep earlier. I had felt sleepy around 7 AM, so had got down, waved my arms around, had one more Red Bull and kept driving. Like in long distance running, one gets a second wind (concentration or adrenaline kick) once one gets over the initial fatigue. Breaking down the journey into imaginary sections also helps e.g. Bangalore to Hyderabad, Hyd to Medchal, Medchal to Adilabad, Adilabad to Nagput, Nagpur to Pench.

We wasted some time in Nirmal looking for a suitable lunch place, and ended up eating at another dhaba (with diesel fumes for extra nourishment) between the Nirmal – Adilabad stretch. We reached outskirts of Nagpur before 5, and stopped for petrol around the 0km point sometime around 6 PM. Reached Pench around 8 PM. In less than 16 hours including all breaks, I had covered 1100+ kms, so was pretty happy that the longest and the most difficult driving stretch was over. OT: Feel confident that with adequate rest before a trip, Bangalore – Kumaon is very much doable in two days of such driving.
As I have mentioned earlier, we went over a couple of horrible bumps, and deep potholes, but the Bison took these in her stride. Warning: there are a few deep potholes before the left turn at Pench, and it is difficult to spot them at night especially if there are high beams coming your way from the other side.
Had touched till 150+ kmph on some stretches, and she felt steady – the T Fort is one great mile cruncher…and one can drive on unknown stretches without fear of damaging the vehicle on bad stretches. Only crib during the drive (actually during the entire trip): I often had to drive fast, and when you do that, you have limited angle of vision, so can’t enjoy the scenery to the left and right by moving your head. Also. Since it was summer, we didn’t roll down our windows – I feel that the best way to enjoy countryside is to drive slowly with windows down – seeing the landscape change, smelling different smells e.g. rain on parched land, different trees etc.

I didn’t take any pictures on the Bangalore – Pench stretch – I was the one driving throughout.

After the detour for Pench from NH7, I drove very slowly on the jungle road. Didn't see anything, unfortunately. At Pench, we checked into Kipling's Court. I had checked online and found many rooms available, so didn't bother to book. Very basic and small room - overpriced, IMO. Rejuvenated ourselves with liquid and solid stuff, and went to sleep early, Would have loved to talk late into the night and go over the day's journey, but we had a safari planned the next morning - so that meant we had to wake up at 4 AM.

A few pictures from the Pench drive in the morning. I have already posted a few e.g. the fawn, landscape, running deer etc. You might see quite a few Sambar pictures...I have a soft corner for them, and get very excited when I see them (don't ask me why).

Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5493.jpg

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I missed a second camera body on this trip. I wasn't keen to change lenses in the middle of a safari, and one gets a limited view with a 70-300mm.

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Last edited by nilanjanray : 17th June 2011 at 19:56.
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Old 17th June 2011, 19:42   #34
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Lovely captures Nilanjan. Did you shoot RAW or JPEG here?
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Old 17th June 2011, 20:10   #35
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
Lovely captures Nilanjan. Did you shoot RAW or JPEG here?
Thanks Rudrada. All JPEG with occasional editing in Picasa. I have plans to pick up Photoshop someday when I have time to play around with it. For the time being, JPEG is an convenient option, especially for quickly dealing with a large number of pictures, and maximizing card space.

Last edited by nilanjanray : 17th June 2011 at 20:29.
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Old 17th June 2011, 22:03   #36
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Default The Pharoah's Chicken

From Wikipedia:
The Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) is a small Old World vulture, found widely distributed from southwestern Europe and northern Africa to southern Asia. It is the only living member of the genus Neophron. It has sometimes also been known as the White Scavenger Vulture or Pharaoh's Chicken. Like other vultures it soars on thermals and the underwing black and white pattern and wedge tail make it distinctive. It sometimes uses stones to break the eggs of birds making it one of the few birds that make use of tools. Birds that breed in the temperate region migrate south in winter while tropical populations are relatively sedentary. Populations of this species have declined in the 20th Century and some isolated island forms are particularly endangered.

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The Bison taking a break at the bone crushing factory as we try to get close to the vultures. They were pretty shy, and would fly away if we approached within 60-70 feet.
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5634.jpg

Last edited by nilanjanray : 17th June 2011 at 22:20.
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Old 18th June 2011, 21:04   #37
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Default June 5, 04:00 - 23:45 hrs

I cursed as I put off my mobile alarm after 5 hours of sleep. But this was the first safari of the trip, and the only one in Pench. We got ready quickly, and went outside to wait for the driver. He was 15 min late, so when we went to the gate there were many vehicles ahead of us.

The drive was great, though I was in the danger of falling of the vehicle since my eyes were closing once in a while. My drowsiness went away when we started hearing alarm calls of cheetal, peacock and langur. There was a biggish pond, and the animals were calling in the jungle beyond the far bank. We waited for 20 minutes, hoping to see a big cat come down for a drink. Eventually the calls stopped, so we moved away.

At the centre point, a tiger show was being arranged. We opted out of it, since I wanted to come back early and get 1 hour of sleep before starting for Bandhavgarh. Meanwhile, Dr. Abheek Ghosh on his way to Pench. We had fixed up earlier that he would do the Pench - Bandhavgarh drive with us. Told him that we will pick him up from the gate around 12, and caught up with some much needed sleep.

Picked up Abheek and his gear from Lalan's dhaba, and started the drive to Tala, Bandhavgarh. Abheek suggested that we take the Jabbalpur - Sahapura - Umaria route that is emptier and with better scenic beauty. BEfore reaching Jabbalpur, we stopped for the vultures. We also stopped for lunch at a roadside dhaba. Chicken and roti was pretty good.

It took us quite some time to cross Jabbalpur. Once we crossed the city, the road became beautiful. MP authorities have done a great job in maintaining their roads. It was a narrow road, but with a great surface. However, there were sudden acute angle bends that one had to watch out for. Great road surface and sudden bends make for a bad combination. One has to drive carefully on that road, given the ghats, bends and the temptation to speed. There was very little traffic on that road. We stopped to take a few photos, and Abheek chatted up some villagers. Apparently the last bus passes that stretch at 8 pm. And sometimes the villagers come across leopards, but haven't seen any tigers. Well, good to know, especially about the last bus bit. Surprisingly, there were a few potential road blocks near some of the small hamlets e.g. a tree arranged half across the road. We were wondering whether at night the local toughies try to stop vehicles (the 1-2 that might pass in the evening) by putting up roadblocks.

We reached Umaria when it was getting dark. Switched on my spots when it became completely dark - Abheek and my friend wanted to see the effect. The last 12 kms to Tala were pretty bad, but we maintained a decent speed, given our vehicle. The park was on both the sides, and apparently there were frequent big cat crossings at night, but we didn't see anything. Smelt a rotting kill at one point, but couldn't see it. We picked up supplies from Tala, chatted with a National Geographic photographer at the local wine shop and then dropped Abheek at his resort, where his friends were waiting.

We had got conflicting directions regarding our resort at Tala. We had to go off the main road passing through Tala and take a narrow road leading to the Tala forest gate. Our resort road was a dirt track leading off to the left of the gate, and going parallel to the core area boundary. It was track meant for Gypsys. After a km, the track branched off in three directions. As I have mentioned earlier, we went on the wrong track that led to nowhere. Reversing was a problem given the terrain, the pitch darkness behind, and the dust that obscured vision. Because of the news of the human kills and not knowing which tigers/which territory, I decided not to get down with a torch and walk around. So we ended up going over fields, 2 feet boundaries and uneven country to make a wide detour and again hit the track near a resort that we had passed 1 km back. There was no one at that resort gate, so we couldn't ask for directions. But thankfully we were getting good mobile signal at the spot. We called up the resort, and a gypsy came to show us the right path.

Treehouse Hideaway at Bandhavgarh comprises 5 treehouses + one dining treehouse spread over 22 acres. It is like an extension of the park, and the boundary fence is easily jumped by the big cats. There is a pond inside the resort, and people have seen tigers, leopards, bears and boars inside the resort area. The treehouses are beautiful, though the decor and ambiance is better suited for couples :-)

I liked really liked the balcony, and ended up spending a lot of time there that evening.

The resort is not exactly family friendly, since they don't have room service, and one might feel uncomfortable walking through the narrow tracks to reach the dining treehouse. There are always boars etc. moving around, so one has to be a bit careful. But it was perfect for guys like us.

We did the first 3 safaris at Bandhavgarh with the resort. The last two were done with a driver arranged by Abheek.

When we called it a day, it was close to midnight. Set the alarm for 4 am and instantly fell asleep.

Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5651.jpg

Abheek chatting with villagers
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5649.jpg

Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5594.jpg

Dr. Abheek Ghosh
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5643.jpg

Inside our treehouse
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_64091.jpg

Last edited by nilanjanray : 18th June 2011 at 21:17.
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Old 18th June 2011, 21:45   #38
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Dancing peacock between two trees
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_6058.jpg

Bandhavgarh fort
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Sleepy after a large meal
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Serpent Eagle
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_5777.jpg

Orchids
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_6101.jpg

Sambhar stag after shedding his horns
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_7010.jpg

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Turtle in a jungle pond
Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner-dsc_6129.jpg
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Old 18th June 2011, 23:49   #39
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Wink re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Superb snaps Nilanjan!! I thoroughly enjoyed reading the whole thread. Fantastic. I have a question, how did you manage to take so much close up snaps of the tiger? Were you physically near to the tiger or did you have a zoom? Since I am totally new to DSLR photography, maybe this will help me in my future trips.

And also, do you go out with any organization or is it just you with a bunch of friends? I tried talking some sense into my friends, but very few are interested in such wild journeys!
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Old 19th June 2011, 00:39   #40
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Great shots Nilanjan.
Thanks for posting 2 of my pics - loved both of them. Interaction with locals helps me get most of the info required for my visits to the jungles and protected and other non protected areas.

Is the Tiger cub pic from Kanha ? What is he called ?

Here is one shot of the mating sequence of Bamera and Kankati posted with permission from Safique Hazarika one of our team members on this expedition and a team-bhp member.

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In Safique's words : Bamera and Kankati courting. The mating brings in new hope for the next generation after the 3 months gestation. A rare sight in the wild by anyone, and my luck at its best.

More to follow.
Enjoy.

Dr. A Ghosh

Last edited by abheekg : 19th June 2011 at 00:46.
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Old 19th June 2011, 07:53   #41
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Quote:
Originally Posted by W.A.G.7 View Post
I have a question, how did you manage to take so much close up snaps of the tiger? Were you physically near to the tiger or did you have a zoom?

And also, do you go out with any organization or is it just you with a bunch of friends?
Thanks W.A.G.7. Sometimes we were pretty close to the tigers. I used the Nikkor 70-300mm zoom lens that helped me take closer shots.

We went on our own - I actually drove from Bangalore to MP and back with my friends.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abheekg View Post
Is the Tiger cub pic from Kanha ? What is he called ?

Here is one shot of the mating sequence of Bamera and Kankati posted with permission from Safique Hazarika one of our team members on this expedition and a team-bhp member.

In Safique's words : Bamera and Kankati courting. The mating brings in new hope for the next generation after the 3 months gestation. A rare sight in the wild by anyone, and my luck at its best.
Amazing picture, Abheek - one has to be very very lucky to see + click such a sight. Thanks to you and your friend for sharing! Bamera is huge!

Yes, the cub is from Kanha. Forgot his name - but he hangs around the meadows with his sibling.

Seems next year Bandhavgarh and Pench will be teeming with tigers.

Last edited by nilanjanray : 19th June 2011 at 07:55.
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Old 20th June 2011, 14:48   #42
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Doesn't seem that there is too much interest in wildlife...or maybe it is MP overdose :-)

Have quite a few pictures to upload...will decide based on interest level.
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Old 20th June 2011, 15:27   #43
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We are of course interested in your pics nilanjan. Its only that I am not posting any thing as one liners may be considered as spam
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Old 20th June 2011, 15:31   #44
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

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We are of course interested in your pics nilanjan. Its only that I am not posting any thing as one liners may be considered as spam
+1 to that!
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Old 20th June 2011, 15:42   #45
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Default re: Call of the Wild: A 3500 km roadtrip to Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha in a Fortuner

Dude that's unfair- I have sent this thread link to a dozen people who aren't even T-BHPians and we're all eagerly waiting for more!

What is this neediness for validation? LOL. Please keep posting.
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