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Old 7th August 2011, 09:28   #76
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

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Originally Posted by laluks View Post

One query. Can you give some information on the stay options at Nako and Tabo
Nako:
Hotel Leo Purgil-+91-1785 236339 (Polular)
Kinner Camps-09650210909

Tabo:
Trojan Guest House -09418342999 (Stay here, this is much cleaner and comfy)
Hotel Tiger Den (Dekit Norphel)-Vinit Rana-9418817761
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Old 7th August 2011, 10:47   #77
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Amazing pictures and travelogue. One question - would it have made any sense to attempt this in your Civic as a self drive or is a local Innova the only sensible option?
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Old 7th August 2011, 12:52   #78
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

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Amazing pictures and travelogue. One question - would it have made any sense to attempt this in your Civic as a self drive or is a local Innova the only sensible option?
I wouldn't take a civic here. However, innova's not the only option, regular hatchbacks with a decent GC would do this route without much fuss. I'd be taking my swift here and doing the entire circuit soon from Kinnaur side to Manali via Rohtang. However, lesser the GC, more careful one's gotta be.
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Old 7th August 2011, 19:41   #79
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont.. Day 5)

We stop at Pooh for a while. There is a provision store on the highway which stocks biscuits, real juice and other food items. We rest for a while, my daughter seems to be in better shape-must have been tiredness.

From hereon the hue slowly changes from intolerable grey to more pleasant brown.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3057.jpg

Soon we could see Khab at a distance.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3062.jpg

Khab bridge is at confluence of Sutlaj and Spiti river. I get down the vehicle and walk alone towards the bridge... quite a serene atmosphere..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3071.jpg

New truss bridge in nearing completion.. it may open to the traffic this year itself.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3078.jpg

road beyond the bridge..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3078a_3067.jpg

Two welders were working on the new bridge.. I approached them and asked them if this road was Namgia-Shipki La road on old Hindustan Tibet road. They had no knowledge. The road didn't look fit for vehicle but there were tyre marks.

The NH22 bifurcates somewhere here near Khab from the Hindustan Tibet road. NH22 meanders towards Kaurik and Hindustan Tibet road enters Tibet from Shipki La.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3075.jpg

View of Reo (Leo) Purgil, (Elev 6816 meters) on the Indo-tibet boarder. Highest peak in Himachal.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3079_3076.jpg

Reo Purgil peak?.. isn't the view majestic..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3079a_3066.jpg

We cross the Khab bridge..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3084.jpg

and enter Hangrang valley (second largest valley in Himachal)..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3089.jpg

towads the "Kee loop" on way to Nako..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3094.jpg

(Cont.. Day 5)

Last edited by dinesha : 7th August 2011 at 19:50.
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Old 7th August 2011, 19:48   #80
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

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Originally Posted by Hayek View Post
Amazing pictures and travelogue. One question - would it have made any sense to attempt this in your Civic as a self drive or is a local Innova the only sensible option?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fine69 View Post
I wouldn't take a civic here. However, innova's not the only option, regular hatchbacks with a decent GC would do this route without much fuss. I'd be taking my swift here and doing the entire circuit soon from Kinnaur side to Manali via Rohtang. However, lesser the GC, more careful one's gotta be.
Thanks for the appreciation.
I wanted to take my Swift or Verna but was advised that it would be too risky for Kaza-Manali stretch (in case the route opened).. specially since I would have been the first few to cross the stretch at the beginning of the season..
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Old 8th August 2011, 12:38   #81
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont.. Day 5)
kee Loops- we begin the steep ascend
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3107.jpg

BRO's Project Deepak insignia on of the boulders
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3108.jpg

Kazigs Ends=Loops ends
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3109.jpg..

The view becomes mesmerising
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3122trl0.jpg

view from the road
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3127.jpg

we continue our climb. Road between Khab and Nako is in good shape
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3130.jpg

Spiti River flowing through the Valley
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3135.jpg

The old Malling alignment. This road has been abandoned due to long (3 Km) landslide stretch. This route now goes to Yangthang across the Spiti river. The old NH22 bypassed Nako. Now the new road ascends to Nako and crosses the Malling nallah near summit entailing very small landslide prone stretch.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3141.jpg

Hangrang valley: must have been har-rang valley originally
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3144.jpg

because it offers full range in the color palette.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3150op.jpg

(Cont.. Day 5)
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Old 8th August 2011, 13:23   #82
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont .. Day 5)

The ascend continues..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3154a.jpg

and we cross one kazig after another..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3155.jpg

nearing Nako now..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3156.jpg

View of Yangthang acorss Spiti river. People here in barren lands in Kinnaur and Spiti are real hardworking. People in the towns and villages has maintained greenery and grows Peas and Potatoes in their field.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3181.jpg

Close-up of Yangthang
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3182.jpg

We reach nako at about 1:00PM.
Nako is located at an elevation of about 3800 meters about 1000 meters above Khab (2800 meters).. It is quite an elevation gain within a short span. Vinkal complains that the vehicle is finding it difficult to breath.
In fact I had made a couple in Kalpa who has spent a night in Nako as well as Losar (Elev 4200 meters). They told me that that they had difficult sleeping in Nako because of altitude sickness whereas they were fine at Losar and other places enroute Manai-Tabo. I was surprised hereing this however near Nako my wife also started showing the effects of high altitude..she had pain on the back of the skull and was slightly out of breath. My kids were fine.

The problem in Nako viz-a-viz other places may be because Nako is situated on top of the mountains where the air may be thinner compare to other higher altitude places which are located at Valley and river banks providing thicker air because of barrier effects from the mountains.. just my theory

View from Nako
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3186.jpg

Nako Monastery..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3205.jpg

Inaugurated by H.H. Dalai Lama
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3206.jpg

Is that Reo Purgil?
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3172.jpg

My daughter loves the trip and the view. My son inquires when will we reach the hotel. He wants to watch some cartoon. I promise him soon.
Meanwhile we enjoy the view of mountains around Yangthang..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3189.jpg


(Cont .. Day 5)
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Old 8th August 2011, 14:20   #83
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont.. Day 5)

Sand Stupas in a row at Nako Monastery
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3203.jpg

Some close-ups
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3197.jpg

one more
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3228.jpg

An international medical group consisting of doctors and health specialists were camping at Nako and they have set-up medical camp at the monastery compound..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3201.jpg

Every there doctors for the various countries volunteers and comes to Spiti- Lohaul and onwards to Leh Ladhak for about 2 months in mid-june. They stay at a place for few days and provide free and comprehensive medical facilities to local population. We met a fairly young doctor from US, he was mesmerized by the place and wanted to return to India for a longer duration.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3195.jpg

It was lunch time at camp so we were invited for the lunch. We had delicious meal comprising of rice, razma and potato sabzi. Thank god for the meal otherwise it would have been thukpa and momos for the kids at Leo Purgils.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3196.jpg

One of the local guy was distributing "Golden apples" to the camp staff and we were also offered one of each. Although preserved from the previous season they were very delicious and juicy. I have heard about them but have never seen or tasted before.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3222.jpg

Nako village: towards Nako lake
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3210.jpg

Nako lake. This lake is located about 150 meters from the road. There are no pathways or walkways to the lake. The small descent is quite slippery and full of stones causing injury hazards.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3212op.jpg

One of the few places (I feel) which looks better in pictures..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3215.jpg

view of Nako from NH22
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3226.jpg

..after a longish break of about an hour and half we proceed ahead..

(Cont.. Day 5)
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Old 8th August 2011, 23:14   #84
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

I guess you still have to climb towards malling nala and cross it to avoid the landslides. How was malling this time? We were waiting before malling in 2009 for almost 1 hour for the landslides to be cleared by the bulldozers. They just take the mud and put down the slopes - it was horrifying to see the mud rushing down.
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Old 9th August 2011, 16:52   #85
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

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I guess you still have to climb towards malling nala and cross it to avoid the landslides. How was malling this time? We were waiting before malling in 2009 for almost 1 hour for the landslides to be cleared by the bulldozers. They just take the mud and put down the slopes - it was horrifying to see the mud rushing down.
No probelm at Malling Nallah. Road was clear.

During the return journey we had to wait a little while as a semi-loaded truck from the opposite side was finding it very difficult to breath. The truck would climb a little (about 2-3 ft.) and then engine would choke out. The Khalasi then would place the boulders behind the rear tyres. The whole sequence was repeated until the truck cleared the ascend at Malling Nallah.
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Old 10th August 2011, 15:51   #86
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

The Old Hindustan Road leaves NH22 from near kaurik and not Khab. The road that you saw near to Khab is a local BRO made road for replenishing some out posts. The route to Shpkila is also from Kaurik though civillian vehicles are not allowed.
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Old 11th August 2011, 09:55   #87
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The Old Hindustan Road leaves NH22 from near kaurik and not Khab. The road that you saw near to Khab is a local BRO made road for replenishing some out posts. The route to Shpkila is also from Kaurik though civillian vehicles are not allowed.
"Old" Hindustan-Tibet Road does not go past Khab but branches off from NH22 at about half a KM before Khab bridge.

In fact NH22 does not follow "Old" Hindustan-Tibet Road alignment at all places. At certain places the alignment varies by wide margin. The original alignment of old HTR basically a Mule Trek is something like:
Rampur-Gaura-Sarahan-Nichar-Wangtu-Tapri-Urni-Roghi-Kalpa-Pangi-Jangi-Labrang-Puh-Khab-Namgya-Shipki La.

This road enters Tibet at Shipki la onto Shipki village-first chinese village falling on old HT road.

The road that I saw on the bank of Sutlaj past khab is a foot trail to reach Namgya village. The motorable approach road to Khab village and Namgya Village forks out from this road (old HT road). RAP is needed to go beyond to Chuppan and Shipki La.

One cannot drive to Shipki la from Kaurik. Kaurik (Parachhu valley) connects Lepcha post and few other outpost.

Last edited by dinesha : 11th August 2011 at 09:59.
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Old 11th August 2011, 17:58   #88
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

Post 83 above: 4th, 5th and last picture is wrongly referred as Yungthang Village, the picture is of Leo village..

Mod: Please edit the above post.

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Old 11th August 2011, 17:59   #89
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont.. Day 5)

Nako village provides excellent vantage point for enjoying the snow capped mountains. A number of short trek starts from here. One of them is Tashigang Summer Village about 5 hours level trak. The winter Tashigang sattlement is about 600-700 meters below near the banks of Sutlaj on opposite side of Namgiya.

We started towards dreaded Malling Nallah but before existing the Nako village I asked Vinal to again stop for a while for few parting shots.

valley overlooking Leo Village
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3246.jpg

Is that Singekang Range
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3237.jpg

Close-up
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3241.jpg

Spiti River down below..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3248op.jpg

(Cont .. Day 5)
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Old 11th August 2011, 18:01   #90
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(Cont.. Day 5)


One of my favorite picture of the day..view from Nako
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3250op3.jpg


(Cont.. Day 5)
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