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Old 25th August 2011, 14:25   #106
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

Great travelogue! and great pics too. Loved them all.

I went till nako (maling pass) early july this year! was planning to go to tabo/kaza but was short on time. Was driving a figo diesel. The road between wangtoo project and pooh was very bad. The figo's bottom was scrapping the broken road a lot! otherwise was very tempted on returning via the manali side Chandigarh-kalpa is doable in 12 hours inspite of the bad road. Stayed in HP tourism hotel which was good. Second day stayed in kalpa and relaxed. Went local sight seeing, and clicked pics! Third day went to Nako, and after spending two hours there, started the way back. The loops just after khab bridge are just amazing! I couldnt take my eyes off the landscape
Reached Sarahan by night. Stayed at HP tourism hotel again. And next day back to Chandigarh. Have to do the complete loop. But after doing a ladakh trip.

You can check out the pics at Flickr: vivek tiwari's Photostream
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Old 26th August 2011, 13:28   #107
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

Quote:
Originally Posted by vivek_vt View Post
Great travelogue! and great pics too. Loved them all.

I went till nako (maling pass) early july this year! was planning to go to tabo/kaza but was short on time. Was driving a figo diesel. The road between wangtoo project and pooh was very bad. The figo's bottom was scrapping the broken road a lot! otherwise was very tempted on returning via the manali side Chandigarh-kalpa is doable in 12 hours inspite of the bad road. Stayed in HP tourism hotel which was good. Second day stayed in kalpa and relaxed. Went local sight seeing, and clicked pics! Third day went to Nako, and after spending two hours there, started the way back. The loops just after khab bridge are just amazing! I couldnt take my eyes off the landscape
Reached Sarahan by night. Stayed at HP tourism hotel again. And next day back to Chandigarh. Have to do the complete loop. But after doing a ladakh trip.

You can check out the pics at Flickr: vivek tiwari's Photostream
Thank you very must.Indeed the landscape is quite breathtaking every turn presents new vista to admire. Scenic beauty beyond Tabo is quite mesmerizing. I hope next time you would be able to complete the loop. In fact roads upto Losar is quite manageable in Small vehicles. I saw a Honda City in Pin Valley.

Last edited by Technocrat : 30th August 2011 at 22:12. Reason: Please stick to the topic, we do not allow discussions on Politics, thanks
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Old 26th August 2011, 13:43   #108
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

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Indeed the landscape is quite breathtaking every turn presents new vista to admire. Scenic beauty beyond Tabo is quite mesmerizing. I hope next time you would be able to complete the loop.
You have very well motivated me to go for the loop as soon as I can
Attached an HDR of kalpa!
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Old 30th August 2011, 14:23   #109
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont..Day 6)

We climb towards Lalung.. as mentioned before road is just manageable for the Innova.. finally some blue sky after 6 days for us..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3842.jpg

The sight of cloud converging and unleashing its furry on an individual mountain is quite something.. here it is easy to foretell the weather pattern ahead by looking towards the mountains..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3853.jpg

We continue our ascent through these semi-dirt track..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3862.jpg

zigzagging besides Spiti and Lingti river..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3864.jpg

Vinkal reminds me that Scorpio would have been better for these roads.. If only he had said me this before starting the trip.. however it would have been little uncomfortable for the kids..

My son was not happy today as he was missing his daily dose of cartoon since last evening.. he wanted to reach the hotel as soon as possible and watch some 'Doreman and Chhota Bheem'..
we cajoled him whenever he suffered the bout of TV craving.. we move ahead...
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3882.jpg

This tattered and eroded mountain is approximately centered around the point of interest between Tabo and Kaza.. we will see lot of this mountain for next two days from various vantage points..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3885_3889.jpg

Not even the mountains are resilient enough to take on the might of wind and snow.. closeup
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3886.jpg

we continue our climb..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3891.jpg

View of Attargo and the Pin-valley road from the top.. we continue on this road enjoying the vista..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3895.jpg

..about 2 kms before Lalung we are brought to halt by the PWD worker signalling us to stop at a landslide location.. my sight straight away falls on the JCB tyre being rolled by one of the workers..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3892.jpg

Looked like we will have to turn back without going any further.. I get down the vehicle and walk towads them to inquire..

(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 30th August 2011, 15:01   #110
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(Cont..Day 6)

When I went near the JCB it looked like they had just removed the front left tyre..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3908.jpg

..so whatever was the problem it would mean either waiting for quite a bit or turn back.. I talked to the PWD worker requested them if something can be done as we had long day ahead .. the JCB operator asked us to wait for just 5 minutes.. once the removed tyre is pushed to the side of road ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3912.jpg

...the operator climbed into the cabin and started the JCB.. He balances the JCB with the help of the blade and the bucket and started clearing the road for us.. I had never seem or heard this before and was amazed to witness this..

Video of JCB clearing the road for US with its front left tyre removed..


Soon the road is cleared and move ahead...
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3917.jpg

However another km and we are faced with another situation.. a portion of the track had caved in just before Lalung and loose gravel and sand has been heaped and carved as temporary road..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3920.jpg

This sinking portion turned out to be too much for Innova.. it was not worth the risk especially with the kids, more-ever we had already covered most of the distance to Lalung and had mostly seen what is to be seen on this road ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3919.jpg

after few futile tries we decided to turn back..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3924.jpg

(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 30th August 2011, 15:22   #111
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(Cont..Day 6)

We stop for a while and submerged ourselves in the beautiful vista..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3941.jpg

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3958.jpg

Our chariot for this sojurn.. behind is the eroded mountain I had mentioned earlier..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3949.jpg

We climb down the meandering road
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3960.jpg

toward the Spiti river..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3967.jpg

and are soon back on SH30..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3980.jpg

..towards Kaza
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3986.jpg

Little ahead a bridge can be seen across the Spiti river..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3991.jpg

This road across the bridge goes towards the Pin Valley..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_3990.jpg

We continue straight as Pin Valley is in our return itinerary..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4044.jpg

The broad faced valley offer quite a view enroute..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4062.jpg

Soon around 1:00 PM we pass through the Kaza gate..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4066.jpg


(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 2nd September 2011, 14:18   #112
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Default Cont..Tabo-Dankar Monastery-Lalung (Lingti Valley)-Kaza-Kye-Kibber-Tashigang-Rangrik

(Cont..Day 6)

Kaza at last.. It is a congested little town.. Vinkal is an old hand so I do not have to worry about nitty-gritties.. he makes about 15-20 trips per year here and was here just 10 days ago ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4070.jpg

Kaza streets are quite narrow and the tourist vehicles are not allowed inside the market place.. We parked our Innova at the Kaza bus stop and me and Vinkal headed out to meet Lotey at his office (He runs 'Spiti Adventure Tourism' with an European partner)... after the usual pleasantries Lotey wanted us to move to his Rangrik hotel for lunch and some rest. But we desired to proceed to one of the nearby high altitude villages as once rested it would have been difficult to de-hibernate and which would also mean wastage of the beautiful afternoon.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4071.jpg

But first thing needed to be taken care was the urgent matter of lunch for some hunghry kids. I asked Lotey for a quick snacking place and he suggested us "Khyoma Restaurant" for the lunch... So we headed to this first floor rasturant on the other side of the street across the bus stop.

Travellers again be very aware: There exist at Kaza a restaurant named "Khyoma Restaurant" which serves delicious meals-[north indian (Rice, Dal, Ragma, Roti etc), chinese and momos] and this meal deserves to be eaten by one and all.

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4073_4909-.jpg

There freshly baked ware quite delicious.. These Manpuri girls and provided an excellent place in "Khyoma" to quash the hunger of many mortals..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4074_4910.jpg

Lotey had advised us to do "Kee-Kibber-Tashigang" Circuit and to keep the "Komic-Hikkim circuit for the next day".. Komic, Tashigang and Kunzum top was located at similar altitude.I knew that K-top is at 4551 meters and Komic is the highest motorable village in the world. Vinkal informed me that the approach to Tashigang was at higher altitude then Komic. so if that was the case then why call Komic the highest motorable village in the world, this honour belonged to Tashigang. Vinkal responds saying that Kibber-Tashigang stretch has been just made operational and because of usual babbudom this amendment may take some time to be recorded. Well, this called for some investigations and we had just the right tool with us- a fairly accurate altitude reading on our GPS navigator.
Plus it would alos kick in some investigative spirit for my kids.

So we take SH30 along the banks of Spiti River..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4076.jpg

A road forks right just before Rangrik bridge for Kye(Kee), Kibber and on towards Tashigang.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4079.jpg

We start the ascent..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4084.jpg

soon we see a large herd of Spitian horses along the road towads Kibber..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4085.jpg

These breed of horses know as 'Chamurti" are know for the stamina and toughness and were extensively used by horsemen of Spiti to carry goods between India and Tibet..The Chamurthi are also used by the Indian Army on mountain tracts that are inaccessible to motor vehicle.

The Chamurthi belong to two main areas in the Himalayas-The pin valley and the villages of Kibber and Chichem near Kaza. Primarily inhabting upland plateau of 4,000 meters the governemnet is trying to cross-bread them (rather unsuccessfully) to be used at other places. These horses are well adapted to the temperatures extremes of the ‘cold desert’ regions of Spiti and northwards in Ladakh where temperature range from -30 degrees C.to +30 degrees.

We passed these horses and ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4090.jpg

..were soon witnessing this wonderful view of Kye Monastery
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4099.jpg

Kye Village with the Spiti river behind..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4104.jpg

A perfect view: Kye monastery behind Kye village..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4108.jpg

Random click near kye..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4109.jpg

View from the gates of Kye Monastery
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4120.jpg


(Cont..Day 6)

Last edited by dinesha : 2nd September 2011 at 14:23.
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Old 2nd September 2011, 18:27   #113
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(Cont..Day 6)


We bye-passed Kye monastery and continued ahead...

The place and the landscape is humbling and it is here nature amply demonstrates its might.. you don't have to look far....
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4191.jpg

The zigzaged climb seems to be never ending...
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4192.jpg

Our vehicle huffed and puffed up the mountains..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4194.jpg

The high snow capped mountains looks puny from up there..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4196.jpg

Suddenly Vinkal left the dirt road and drove the Innova straight up the mountains following the tread marks made by local jeeps.. he said that he wants me to experience the thrills of offroading in the oxygen starved terrains.. but I knew his ulterior motive was to save on whatever bit of fuel he can.. I guess normal taxi-driver instinct.. I had no complains until ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4203crp.jpg

the Vehicle could not conquer this incline (primarily due to chocked engine because of lack of oxygen) and started rolling back down the mountains.. I jumped from the front seat and grabbed some boulders and hurried placed them behind the rear tyres.. the vehicle stopped and slowly we climbed the section by placing boulders behind the rear tyres every few inches.. Vinkal sheepishly told me that this would have been a non-event had we brought his Scorpio here
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4204.jpg

we continued our climb and soon reached the junction for Kibber..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4206.jpg

We skipped Kibber for now and continued ahead..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4214.jpg

We were already above snowline, Looking down the slopes towards the white mountains..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4218.jpg

View of Kibber village down the slopes..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4219.jpg

Random view from the KIbber-Tashigang stretch..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4221.jpg

We engulfed ourselves with the mesmerizing view all along the climb..
the term "Roof of the World" for the region is self-evident here..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4224.jpg

The altitude reading showed 4451metes MSL ..nearing Kunzum top heights...
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4235.jpg

We continued to ascend towards Tashigang.. My daughter was on high spirit but my son was suffering his usual bout of TV craving..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4230.jpg

The climb continues..

(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 3rd September 2011, 17:15   #114
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(Cont..Day 6)

We continued with the gradual climb through the dirt trek towards Tashigang..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4238.jpg

lots of slush due to melting glaciers..thankfully PWD had dumped rubble stones on many of the slushy portion.. however it was considerable stress for the Innova on these roads..
There was a constant worry amongst us about the driveability of our vehicle.. what if we got struck there .. we had not seen a single living soul in last 20 kms..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4252.jpg

We were gradually gaining elevation..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4237.jpg

Finally near the summit of the climb Vinkal (after foot inspection) felt that it was too risky for Innova to do a slushy section as the engine was already having problems in the low oxygen environment..none of us wanted to get struck there with the Kids..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4236.jpg

.. I grabbed my Camera, jumped out the Vehicle and started hiking (leaving wife and kids near the vehicle)..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4246.jpg

hiking towards the highest point on the Kye-Kibber-Tashigang section...
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4251.jpg

Random image during hike
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4254.jpg

Summit on the sight..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4255.jpg

Top at last: Those clouds, mountains, the blue sky and the loneliness..
Well, I ache for such loneliness
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4261_trial.jpg

I placed my GPS nevigator on top of the stone heap.. it reads 4503 meter, not high enough but higher then highest point in contiguous USA..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4256cr.jpg

View from the top-rubble stones are heaped at many place to be used in case the road becomes too slushy..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4259.jpg


(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 3rd September 2011, 17:20   #115
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Default Re: Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

(Cont..Day 6)

HDR of the summit..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4261_hdr_rslt.jpg

(Cont..Day 6)
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Old 3rd September 2011, 18:51   #116
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(Cont..Day 6)

I walked here and there enjoying the purposeless solitude
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4268.jpg

Clicking randomly..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4269_4272.jpg

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4271_4302.jpg

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4274_4299.jpg

Melting glacier.. slushy terrain..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4270_4281.jpg

Some soulful solitary moments later I walked towards the Vehicle.. My son was whining for the TV
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4272_4271.jpg

Slowly we start our descend taking in the beauty surrounding us..
View of Spiti River about a km down..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4273_4292.jpg

Suddenly we see a herd of Ibex -The endangered himalayan mountain goat..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4288.jpg

Looked like a very lucky day for us.. we leave our vehicle and walked slowly and quietly toward the herd
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4293cr.jpg

Eye contact with the Lamb
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4294crp.jpg

They scoot as soon as they see us.. back to the vehicle and we descend slowly ..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4297.jpg

One of the local house in the wilderness..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4298_4320.jpg

Another large herd in another slopes. Indeed a very lucky day for us.
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4304.jpg

Close-up of the temple on one of the peaks..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4321.jpg

(Cont..Day 6)

Last edited by dinesha : 3rd September 2011 at 18:57.
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Old 3rd September 2011, 18:59   #117
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hats off to you dinesh bhai for providing such beautiful pictures and informative narration for us.

Wanted to ask a question, did not you ever feel like snatching the driver's seat from Vinkal? How did you resist it.

Thanks again for showing us some really beautiful places off the beaten track. Waiting for the rest of it.

You travelogue is a one stop guidance manual for anybody going to Spiti. Nothing else is needed.
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Old 5th September 2011, 13:27   #118
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Originally Posted by novice_alto View Post
hats off to you dinesh bhai for providing such beautiful pictures and informative narration for us.

Wanted to ask a question, did not you ever feel like snatching the driver's seat from Vinkal? How did you resist it.

Thanks again for showing us some really beautiful places off the beaten track. Waiting for the rest of it.

You travelogue is a one stop guidance manual for anybody going to Spiti. Nothing else is needed.
Thanks for the appreciations..
Indeed, I had to resist the urge to ask him the driver's seat at many places.
Vehicle willing, I would have loved to drive through the entire route..
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Old 5th September 2011, 13:28   #119
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(Cont..Day 6)

Slowly we decend towards kibber.. no clear defined road but just tyre treads to follow..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4322_4351cr.jpg

Vivid hues of the nature..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4322.jpg

Lots of glacial lakes has been formed due to melting glaciers..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4335ver.jpg

A network of channels has been constructed in the village to bring the water from these glacial lakes to the houses for domestic and cattle use..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4325.jpg

View of Rangrik across Spiti river from the top..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4337.jpg

Close up of Rangrik
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4340.jpg

Descend continues through the rough roads..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4355.jpg

White mountains-Random Images..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4341.jpg

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4357.jpg

Continuing towards Kibber
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4358.jpg

View of Chicham Village at a distance..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4364.jpg

Random view across the valley..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4365.jpg

Finally at the root of the Kibber-Tashigang road
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4383.jpg

Kibber Village..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4374crp.jpg

After a brief halt at Kibber we head towards Kye monastery..



(Cont..Day 6)

Last edited by dinesha : 5th September 2011 at 13:48.
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Old 5th September 2011, 14:35   #120
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(Cont..Day 6)

Near Kibber on way towards Kye we encounter the Spitian horses which we had passed during our ascend..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4398crp.jpg

Beauty Galaore..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4399trl.jpg

some more..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4400.jpg

Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4401.jpg

It was late evening by the time we were nearing Kye monastery.. fierce wind was blowing all across.. one of my favourite picture..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4435cr.jpg

kye monastery in the evening lights
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4437.jpg

Landscape around Kye..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4455.jpg

The fierce wind was too dry and causing skin irritation.. Kids were restricted inside the vehicle..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4457.jpg

kye Gompa
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4459.jpg

Back in vehicle and heading towards Rangrik after solitary visit to Kye monastery..
Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti-img_4469.jpg



(Cont..Day 6)
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