Travelogue: A family trip across Kinnaur and Spiti

[dinesha]

Disclaimer: This is my travelogue I have ever written. Please excuse the writing skills.

The plan to do the family trip to Spiti-Lahaul trip originated from a promise to my 7year old daughter. I had promised her that this summer vacation I will help her to get some rare fossils for her Summer holidays project and show her Glacier, Snow and possible snowfall. I had traveled alone in the past as I did not know how my kids will handle long road trips on Mountains. This plan germinated to a family trip across Kinnaur, Spiti and Lahaul. We family of four– me, wife and 2 kids (4 year old son and 7 year old daughter) planned the trip for last week of May.

The departure date kept on moving ahead in hope of reaching Manali from kaza via Kunzum and Batal thereby completing the loop. I had an impending business tour on 20th June from Delhi which could not be postponed. I had been in phone with HPPWD officials at Kaza, Keylong, Khoskar as well as Lotey (owner of Hotel Spiti Sarai and Spiti adventure at Kaza getting updates about road clearing work being undertaken for Kaza-Manali Road. The tentative dates kept on shifting from 10th June to 15th June and finally to 20th June for the clearing up of glaciers from Gramphoo-Chotta Dhara stretch.

In the meantime, I met HP tourism officials in Delhi regarding route conditions and other facility. I was discouraged by them to go beyond kalpa with my Kids. I was told the danger of high altitude and AMS, lack of medical facilities and lack of proper lodging and hotel facilitates. I was reminded about the remoteness of the place. I was disheartened and got overpowered by fear for kids especially since my daughter suffers from Asthmatic bronchitis . I called up various people in Spiti and Kinnaur to solicit there advice. Owner of Rupin River Resort at Rakchham thought that it would be my foolishness to take my Kids upto Kaza and to do the Kaza Manali road. From some I got somewhat positive response. Very few were willing to tell me to not to worry about my daughter's health. I guess as the matter pertained to Children people were generally cautious.

I read lot of literature and internet postings on AMS, I get confused further. Finally all confused, I consulted my pediatrician, he tells me to go ahead but with caution and all possible medicine. I had some apprehension but I decided to proceed with my plan, after-all I had carried all medicines, and doctor was (BSNL) phone call away. I also knew that there were fairly good medical facility at Kaza and Rekong Peo.

About AMS my simple advice from personal experience: Be aware but don’t go to much in detail. In most of the time it is psychological. Symptoms are gradual, generally starts with headache and breathlessness. Ascend gradually and if some symptoms shows up, small descend of around 250-300 meters should relieve the problem. Acclimatize for a night and proceed.

When I was informed about the possibility of further slippage of date for opening of Kaza Manali road, I knew that I need to proceed and take my chances. If route opens up by the time I reach Kaza fine otherwise I will have to return back. Hoping against all hopes, I knew that I will not able to make it to Manali from Kaza this time but I did not wanted to give up. I cannot keep on waiting for the route to be cleared due to unavoidable business tour from Delhi and finally on 2nd June I decided to start my travel on 4th June. The plan was to go upto Kalpa and take a call there. If there were any possibility of competing the loop then I would proceed to Sangla valley and then to Nako otherwise do Sangla on return trip.

______

Trip Summary
Travel Date: 4-16 June 2011

Places Covered:
Narkanda, Sarahan, Sangla Valley, Kalpa, Nako, Tabo, Chango, Dhankar, Pin Valley, Lingti Valley, Ki-Kibber-Tashigang, Langza-HIkkim-Komic

Vehicle used:
Honda Civic (Between Delhi-Chandigarh)
Toyota Innova (Had to use hired vehicle as my Baleno is presently located at Sikkim)

Distance Covered:
2300KMs (approx)
-----------

Some Random pictures:

[hvkumar]

Waiting for your updates on road conditions and facilities en route. I am planning to be on this circuit next month!

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Waiting for your updates on road conditions and facilities en route. I am planning to be on this circuit next month!

You are a master traveler. You know it all.
Please let me know if want to know antthing specific.

Anyways, briefly:
* As dreaded by most travelers until last year, the road condition between Shimla and Narkanda has improved vastly. This stretch as good as any other stretch in Kinnaur and Spiti. Not really bad roads in Kinnaur and Spiti upto Kunzum Top. I saw a Honda city in Pin valley.

* next time I would skip Narkanda and do instead "Shimla-Naldhera-Basantpur - Sunni - Luhri - Sainj -Rampur" and save about 2 hours of travel time.

*Between Rampur and Powari before Shongton Bridge -road closes between 12:30 and 1:30 PM for blasting activities.

*Blasting activity also near Morang around same time 12:30-1:30PM.

*"Pappu Dhaba" at Tapri served the best vegetarian meal (Rs.50/-) in the entire trip.

*I hope you have included Pin Valley-upto Mudh. This it the best place in entire Spiti valley.

*Instead of Kaza, please stay at picturesque village “Rangrik”. There is a hotel named “Spiti Sarai” with excellent rooms and the very good meals in Kaza. The owner ‘Lotey (Ramesh Lal)@9418439247’ also runs an adventure company(trekking and mountaineering). He indulges himself in mountaineering and has the entire reason (and people) in tips of his hand. He was a crucial guy updating me about the road conditions. He will advice anybody including travelers staying in other hotels.

*If you staying a Tabo. Please don’t stay at Tiger Den. It is hell of a place to stay. Instead stay at Trojen Guest House. Clean and Comfy.

*Petrol Pump beyond Rampur: Tapri, Powari, Rekong Peo and Kaza

Regards
Dinesh

[dinesha]

Some route maps and the markers;

Click Image to Inlarge


Click Image to Inlarge

[v&v]

Dinesha, this is zone i am targetting for our next visit. I did till narkhanda in march. Your log would certainly help me plan it. I am hooked.

[akp]

Nice start, dinesha. Looking forward to the full travelogue.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Waiting for your updates on road conditions and facilities en route. I am planning to be on this circuit next month!

Originally Posted by dinesha

Anyways, briefly:
* As dreaded by most travelers until last year, the road condition between Shimla and Narkanda has improved vastly. This stretch as good as any other stretch in Kinnaur and Spiti.

NH 22 as on June 27: while coming back from the Narkanda side, there was a very bad stretch of about 6-7 km that starts 10km after Narkanda, and another of about 2 km near Fagu. Remaining parts were fine. And since NH22 in this section is quite wide, one can maintain decent speed. On our onward journey, we had taken Dhalli-Naldehra-Basantpur-Kingal route (NOT the Sunni-Luhri one) - road surfaces were better, but the basantpur-Kingal stretch is very narrow with lots of blind curves, so that it is difficult to maintain a high speed even though there is hardly any traffic, and moreover it is about 35 km longer than going straight on NH22 via Narkanda.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by dinesha

* next time I would skip Narkanda and do instead "Shimla-Naldhera-Basantpur - Sunni - Luhri - Sainj -Rampur" and save about 2 hours of travel time.

Thanks, we are also planning to take the Basantpur route, but not the Luhri route which I hear is bad. Instead I will go directly from Basantpur to Kingal.

*Between Rampur and Powari before Shongton Bridge -road closes between 12:30 and 1:30 PM for blasting activities.

*Blasting activity also near Morang around same time 12:30-1:30PM.

Invaluable info, thanks a great deal. We will bear that in mind.

*I hope you have included Pin Valley-upto Mudh. This it the best place in entire Spiti valley.

No, I have no idea about Pin Valley although I have plans to go in through Attargo. Can you tell us more? How does one get to Mudh - and how are road conditions, etc?

*Instead of Kaza, please stay at picturesque village “Rangrik”. There is a hotel named “Spiti Sarai” with excellent rooms and the very good meals in Kaza. The owner ‘Lotey (Ramesh Lal)@9418439247’ also runs an adventure company(trekking and mountaineering). He indulges himself in mountaineering and has the entire reason (and people) in tips of his hand. He was a crucial guy updating me about the road conditions. He will advice anybody including travelers staying in other hotels.

*If you staying a Tabo. Please don’t stay at Tiger Den. It is hell of a place to stay. Instead stay at Trojen Guest House. Clean and Comfy.

Strangely, I had short-listed the Spiti Sarai since I had seen it last time during my drive in Spiti Valley. Thanks for the review. And the telephone number.

Any idea if Ramesh Lal can help with camping out in Chandra tal?

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by akp

NH 22 as on June 27: while coming back from the Narkanda side, there was a very bad stretch of about 6-7 km that starts 10km after Narkanda, and another of about 2 km near Fagu. Remaining parts were fine. And since NH22 in this section is quite wide, one can maintain decent speed. On our onward journey, we had taken Dhalli-Naldehra-Basantpur-Kingal route (NOT the Sunni-Luhri one) - road surfaces were better, but the basantpur-Kingal stretch is very narrow with lots of blind curves, so that it is difficult to maintain a high speed even though there is hardly any traffic, and moreover it is about 35 km longer than going straight on NH22 via Narkanda.

I guess the Basantpur route is more scenic? I have done only the NH22 route via Narkhanda. Has the condition of the road via Luhri improved? Any stay facilities at Basantpur?

[akp]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

I guess the Basantpur route is more scenic? I have done only the NH22 route via Narkhanda. Has the condition of the road via Luhri improved? Any stay facilities at Basantpur?

I have not used the route via Luhri, but lordofgondor recently took that road and according to him (Blissful, beautiful Bhabha Valley @ Kafnu), the roads are not in good shape on that route. As for the Basantpur-Kingal route, it is definitely scenic. In fact, after you take the turn from Dhalli, that whole sector is lush green, more so now during the monsoon. If one is not pressed for time, it is definitely enjoyable.

We didn't stop at Basantpur, so not sure about stay options - though it didn't look like there would be decent options there. But Naldehra is just 15 km before that, and there are a few options there including HPTDC Golf Glade.

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by v&v

Dinesha, this is zone i am targetting for our next visit. I did till narkhanda in march. Your log would certainly help me plan it. I am hooked.

Please let me know if in anyway I can help.

Originally Posted by akp

Nice start, dinesha. Looking forward to the full travelogue.

thanks akp, I hope it turns out to be an interesting read and also help others planing.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

No, I have no idea about Pin Valley although I have plans to go in through Attargo. Can you tell us more? How does one get to Mudh - and how are road conditions, etc?

Yes, for pin valley you have to go through Attargo. There is a bridge across spiti river with the HPPWD sign board. The distance upto Mudh (the last motorable village will be about 34Kms. It will take you about 2-1/2 hours from Tabo.
Attargo-Gulling- 10Kms
Gulling-Sagnam-12Kms
Sagnam-Mudh-12 Kms

Please check the Maps attached above.
The road condition is fine. We travelled there on 10th June were there were lot of melting glaciers betwen Sagnam and Mud. Lotey(ramesh Lal) had advised me not to go beyond Sagnam because of slush but the scenery beyond Sagnam kept us calling.We decided to travel as far as the raod was driveable. We did not face any problem. For your caravans Scorpios and Boleros it will be a no game.
I am glad that we made it upto Mudh. The place is very humbling. Next time I plan to stay there atleast one night.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Strangely, I had short-listed the Spiti Sarai since I had seen it last time during my drive in Spiti Valley. Thanks for the review. And the telephone number.

Any idea if Ramesh Lal can help with camping out in Chandra tal?

For Chandrataal, Lotey would be the best person to arrange it. It will be lot cheaper also.
In-fact I wanted to desperately go to the Chandrataal and camp there for a night with my Kids. But for that I would have had to trek the entire route from Kunzum/Batal. Lotey told me that if I intended to do it he would arrange everything including camping gear/porter/food and it would not cost much. I did not go there as it would have been difficult with Kids.

In spiti he has become a friend for all his help and support. I will call him and let him know to expect a call from you.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Thanks, we are also planning to take the Basantpur route, but not the Luhri route which I hear is bad. Instead I will go directly from Basantpur to Kingal.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

I guess the Basantpur route is more scenic? I have done only the NH22 route via Narkhanda. Has the condition of the road via Luhri improved? Any stay facilities at Basantpur?

Originally Posted by akp

I have not used the route via Luhri, but lordofgondor recently took that road and according to him (Blissful, beautiful Bhabha Valley @ Kafnu), the roads are not in good shape on that route. As for the Basantpur-Kingal route, it is definitely scenic. In fact, after you take the turn from Dhalli, that whole sector is lush green, more so now during the monsoon. If one is not pressed for time, it is definitely enjoyable.

We didn't stop at Basantpur, so not sure about stay options - though it didn't look like there would be decent options there. But Naldehra is just 15 km before that, and there are a few options there including HPTDC Golf Glade.

Yes I have stayed at Golf Grade at Naldehra. Its a decent place but the food is not good. But why halt there, you can push upto Sarahan/Rampur from Delhi.

I have traveled Basantpur-Sunni-Rampur stretch on return . This road is in bad shape between Sunni and Sainj. But I will not say it to be undriveable. No deep potholes or risk of damaging the vehicle. It will be little rough for an hour and it is quite managable I think.

but If you are after scenic roads then i would suggest do either of this:
a) Narkanda-Thanedar-Bithal-Rampur
Same travel time as NH22. You will love the apple orchard in the full blossom.

b)Narkanda-Baggi-Khadrala-Sungri-Taklech-Dharanghati-Mashnoo-Sarahan
It is a dirt trek between Dharanghati and Mashnoo with no traffic but somebody did it last year in Innova could be easily done by your vehicles. This is the route I want to most defiantly take next time I travel there. The scenic beauty through this road is said to to unmatched and beats most places in Kinnaur and Spiti.
All these roads are quite easy comparable to places you will be going beyond Leh.

Regard
Dinesh A.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by dinesha

Yes, for pin valley you have to go through Attargo. There is a bridge across spiti river with the HPPWD sign board. The distance upto Mudh (the last motorable village will be about 34Kms. It will take you about 2-1/2 hours from Tabo.
Attargo-Gulling- 10Kms
Gulling-Sagnam-12Kms
Sagnam-Mudh-12 Kms

Please check the Maps attached above.

Thanks for the info. I have one doubt here - isn't this the same road that goes to Mikkim & Kingiri Gompa?

For Chandrataal, Lotey would be the best person to arrange it. It will be lot cheaper also.
In-fact I wanted to desperately go to the Chandrataal and camp there for a night with my Kids. But for that I would have had to trek the entire route from Kunzum/Batal. Lotey told me that if I intended to do it he would arrange everything including camping gear/porter/food and it would not cost much. I did not go there as it would have been difficult with Kids.

In spiti he has become a friend for all his help and support. I will call him and let him know to expect a call from you.

Thanks, that will be great. I am waiting for the roster of passengers/ cars in our trip to get crystallised before I contact him, but it will be great if you can tip him off about our trip.

but If you are after scenic roads then i would suggest do either of this:
a) Narkanda-Thanedar-Bithal-Rampur
Same travel time as NH22. You will love the apple orchard in the full blossom.

b)Narkanda-Baggi-Khadrala-Sungri-Taklech-Dharanghati-Mashnoo-Sarahan
It is a dirt trek between Dharanghati and Mashnoo with no traffic but somebody did it last year in Innova could be easily done by your vehicles. This is the route I want to most defiantly take next time I travel there. The scenic beauty through this road is said to to unmatched and beats most places in Kinnaur and Spiti.

Great route ideas, thanks! Let me trace these routes and see which one I will take this time from Shimla to Rampur!

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Thanks for the info. I have one doubt here - isn't this the same road that goes to Mikkim & Kingiri Gompa?

Yes. It is the same road. Kingiri branches off on left fork from Gulling.
This is what you will see at Attergo bridge from Tabo side towads Kaza


From Kaza side.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Thanks, that will be great. I am waiting for the roster of passengers/ cars in our trip to get crystallised before I contact him, but it will be great if you can tip him off about our trip.

I have called him up.

Regard
Dinesh A

[akp]

Originally Posted by dinesha

but If you are after scenic roads then i would suggest do either of this:
a) Narkanda-Thanedar-Bithal-Rampur
Same travel time as NH22. You will love the apple orchard in the full blossom.

+1. We have used this route twice, and it is a really beautiful drive. We all loved it.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Great route ideas, thanks! Let me trace these routes and see which one I will take this time from Shimla to Rampur!

One word of caution on staying in Rampur. It is at an altitude of about 800m. It is very likely that after Rampur your next stop will be at a much higher altitude. Too much difference in a single day may not be good for some people. We learnt it the hard way. We stayed in Rampur on the first night and our next stop was Chitkul, which is at 3400m; my father had a tough time there. Perhaps it is better to go ahead a little further and stay at Sarahan.

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by akp

One word of caution on staying in Rampur. It is at an altitude of about 800m. It is very likely that after Rampur your next stop will be at a much higher altitude. Too much difference in a single day may not be good for some people. We learnt it the hard way. We stayed in Rampur on the first night and our next stop was Chitkul, which is at 3400m; my father had a tough time there. Perhaps it is better to go ahead a little further and stay at Sarahan.

Good piece of advice, thanks. We are planning to stay at either Narkhanda or Sarahan.

[dinesha]

ROAD DETAILS:

ROUTE (ALTITUDE MSL) Distance

SHIMLA – NARKANDA (64 km)
Shimla – Wild Flower Hall (2498m)............13 km
Wild Flower Hall – Kufri (2510m)...............03 km
Kufri – Fagu (2500m).......................……..06 km
Fagu – Narkanda (2708m)..............………..42 km

NARKANDA – SARAHAN (112 km)
Narkanda – Kumarsain (2150m)........………..16 km
Kumarsain – Sainj (1372m)..............………..15 km
Sainj – Nirath (945m).....................………..18 km
Nirath – Dutt Nagar (970m)...........………... 06 km
Dutt Nagar – Rampur (1005m).........………...09 km
Rampur – Jeori (1250m)..................………..23 km
Jeori – Sarahan (2165m).................………..17 km

ALTERNATE ROUTE::Shimla-Basantpur
Shimla-Mashobra
Mashobra-Naldhera
Naldhera-Basantpur

ALTERNATE ROUTE::Basantpur-Sainj
Basantpur-Sunni
Sunni-Luhri...................................………..49 km
Luhri-Sainj....................................………..06 km

ALTERNATE ROUTE::Basantpur-Sainj
Basantpur-Kinjal
Kinjal-Sainj

ALTERNATE ROUTE::Narkanda-Sarahan
Narkanda-Tanedhar
Tanedhar -Bithal
Bithal-Rampur
Rampur-Sarahan

ALTERNATE ROUTE::Narkanda-Sarahan
Narkanda-Baggi
Baggi-Khadrala
Khadrala-Sungri
Sungri-Taklech
Taklech-Dharanghati
Dharanghati-Mashnoo
Mashnoo-Sarahan

SARAHAN – KARCHHAM(77 km)
Sarahan – Jeori (1250m) ................………..18 km
Jeori – Chora (1260m)................………..…..11 km
Chora – Bhawa Nagar (1450m)..................20 km
Bhawa Nagar – Wangtu (1830m)................09 km
Wangtu – Tapri (1683m)................………...10 km
Tapri – Karchham (1899m)................……….09 km

KARCHHAM -SANGLA – CHITKUL(44 km)
Karchham – Sangla (2680m)................……18 km
Sangla – Chitkul (3480m)................………..26 km

KARCHHAM – KALPA(33 km)
Karchham – Powari (2170m)............………..13 km
Powari – Recong Peo (2290m)....................7 km
Recong Peo – Kalpa (2900m)..................…13 km

KALPA – TABO (170 km)
Kalpa – Akpa (2238)................………........37 km
Akpa – Morang (2276m)................………….. 8 km
Morang – Spello (2244m)................…...…..24 km
Spello – Puh (2837m)................………...…..11 km
Puh – Khab (2831m)................……….....…..10 km
Khab – Nako (3800m)................……….......21 km
Nako – Chango (3658m).................…….....20 km
Chango – Shikhar (3119m).................…….. 6 km
Shikhar – Sumdo (3230m)................……….. 7 km
Sumdo – Tabo (3050m)................…………..32 km

TABO – ATTARGO (24 km)
Tabo – Poh (3150m)................………………..10 km
Poh – Sichiling (3190m)................…………..11 km
Sichiling – Attargo (3250m)................…….. 3 km

ATTARGO-LALUNG (LINGTI VALLEY) (14 km) (Forks outs Near Attargo)

ATTARGO-DANKAR (7 km) (Forks outs Near Attargo)

ATTARGO-MUDH (PIN VALLEY) (34 km)
Attargo-Gulling ................………......………..10 km
Gulling-Sagnam................……….......………..12 km
Sagnam-Mudh................………...........……..12 km

ATTARGO-KAZA 23 km
Attargo – Lara (3360m)................…………….13 km
Lara – Kaza (3600m)................………......….10 km

KAZA-KI-KIBBER-TASHIGANG (36 km)
Kaza – Ki – Monestery (4116m)...........……. 12 km
Ki – Monestery – Kibber (4205m)............…….8 km
Kibber – TASHIGANG (4503m)...............…….14 km

KAZA-LANGZA-KOMIC (26 km)
Kaza – Langza (4250m)
Langza-Komic (4530m) [**HIGHEST MOTORABLE VILLAGE IN THE WORLD**]

KAZA – KELONG (187 km)
Kaza – Rangrik (3700m)................………...... 8 km
Rangrik – Khurik (3750m)................…..…….. 4 km
Khurik – Sumling (3790m)..................…….... 4 km
Sumling – Murang (3800m)................……….. 4 km
Murang – Hula (3845m)................…………….. 5 km
Hula – Pangmo (3896m)................……..…….. 4 km
Pangmo – Kiato (3964m)................…………..13 km
Kiato – Hanse (3950m)................…….……….. 3 km
Hanse – Losar (4079m)................…..………..12 km
Losar – Kunzam Pass (4551m)...........………..19 km (Chandertal lake Trek 11kms from here)
Kunzam Pass – Batal (3560m)…...........……….12 km(Chandratal Parking 3 Kms+ 3 Kms Trek from here)
Batal – Chhota Drara (3690m)...........….……..15 km
Chhota Drara – Bara Drara (3690m).....……….. 8 km
Bara Drara – Chhatru (3560m)...........….…….. 9 km
Chhatru – Gramphoo (3200m)............………..17 km
Gramphoo – Khoksar (3140m).............……….. 5 km
Khoksar – Sissu (3160m)...........……….………..15 km
Sissu – Gondla (3160m)....................………..13 km
Gondla – Tandi (2573m)...........……….....…….. 9 km
Tandi – Keylong (3350m)...................……….. 8 km

KELONG-MANALI (187) Kms
Kelong – Tandi (2573m)...........………..……….. 8 km
Tandi – Kirting (3350m)...........………...……….11 km
Kirting – Shansha (3721m)...........…….……….. 2 km
Sahnsha – Jahlma (3111m)...........…………….. 6 km
Jahlma – Thirot (3005m)...........………...……..10 km
Thirot – Arat (2870m)...........………....……….. 7 km
Arat – Trilokipur (2760m)...........……………….. 4 km
Trilokipur – Udaypur (2650m)...........….……..11 km
Udaypur – Tandi (2573m)...........……..………..43 km
Tandi – Khoksar (3140m)...........……….………..37 km
Khoksar – Rohtang Pass (3980m)........………..20 km
Rohtang Pass – Marrhi (3354m)............……..15 km
Marrhi – Kothi (2530m)...........………....………..24 km
Kothi – Manali (2050m)...........………....………..12 km

[Gosh this post was real pain. It took a while for me to put those dots. I hope it is useful to others.]
Excuse If typographical errors.

Regards
Dinesh A.