When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

[sachinj12]

Another Deky log! And as usual fantastic writing. And equally good pics.

A bit : You have not completed your Jana tha Japan... experience

[deky]

Originally Posted by sachinj12

Another Deky log! And as usual fantastic writing. And equally good pics.

A bit : You have not completed your Jana tha Japan... experience

Have I not??? I think I have completed all the chapters!!!

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Accomodation

1. KMVN takes care of all the accomodation for the yatris on the Indian side

2. Till Dharchula (except Gujrati samaj) they have small proper hotel rooms where 3-4 people can be accommodated per room. There are some double rooms also so couples may get a room to themselves. Also till here attached bathroom with geysers are available.

3. After Dharchula mostly yatris have to put up in dormitories. 8-10 yatris or sometimes even more have to sleep in one room. As these camps are primarily used only for 4 months of KMY hence these are temporary structures but pretty well built. KMVN has been constantly improving and the accommodation here is getting better each year.

4. Bed linen is Ok'ish. Could have been cleaner, but I understand washing plus drying linen where it is just raining and cloudy all the time can be a huge ask. So if you are very finicky. then the best is to carry a sheet and a pillow cover of your own.

5. Enough blankets or quilt is available all the time at all camps

6. Common toilets have to be used after Dharchula. Common toilets are surprisingly kept pretty clean. Hot water is also available in the mornings.

7. The Chinese authorities take care of the accommodation at Tibet side.

8. Stay at Taklakote and darchen is at proper hotels with all the basic amenities like, tv, attached toilets, 24hrs hot water, spik and span bed linen etc etc. usually they are 2-3 bedded rooms

9. Stay during Kailash Parikrama and at Mansarovar is again at guesthouses with 8-10 yatris in a room. Open toilets have to be used here

Food

1. KMVN is again responsible for all the meals at the Indian side.

2. Food is simple but when had warm is very tasty. Usually there is a sweet for dinner at all the camps

3. Breakfast is mostly served en-route at make shift dhabas. Lunch if not reached KMVN camp then again is served en-route at a dhaba.

4. Only the food served during Taklakote stay in China, is part of the package. For rest of the 8 days the yatris have to buy their own food material and hire cooks.

5. The memebers of the food committee buy dry ration from India and carry it with them as common luggage. fruits and vegetable is bought at Taklakot and cooks are also hired from Taklakot. Common fund is used for this.

6. Utensils for cooking are available at the hotel in Taklakot so there is no need to buy them. Also no need to take any plate or spoon of your own as wherever you eat they will provide it (its mentioned in the MEA guide book to carry)

[sachinj12]

Originally Posted by deky

Have I not??? I think I have completed all the chapters!!!

Oh,I have missed it somehow. Doing a re-read of the entire thread.And it still feels new. I have mostly starred all your threads. Haven't found time to go through. The thread previous to this, the Himalaya trek, that too was a one of the kind, as always. Like I said on one of the thread's of yours, you are probably the only other BHPian apart from Kapasi who can post one whole page without a pic and still keep the reader glued to the seats.

[deky]

Originally Posted by sachinj12

Oh,I have missed it somehow. Doing a re-read of the entire thread.And it still feels new. I have mostly starred all your threads. Haven't found time to go through. The thread previous to this, the Himalaya trek, that too was a one of the kind, as always. Like I said on one of the thread's of yours, you are probably the only other BHPian apart from Kapasi who can post one whole page without a pic and still keep the reader glued to the seats.

Hi Sachin,
Thank you for all the kind words, it feels great to be compared to him!!!

CONTD.....

DAY7 : SIRKHA TO GALA

Sirkha: 2200 mtrs
Gala: 2322 mtrs (height as per my gps)
Distance: 14 kms
Time taken: 7.5 hrs on foot

It was again an early morning start from Sirkha. We were out on the journey by 0530 hrs. Infact when you are asleep latest by 2200 hrs the previous night, getting up at 0430 hrs the next day is not that difficult, plus the excitement of being in a new terrain and exploring the bounties of the nature and fresh air acts like a tonic and helps you being an early riser.

So after having a glass of bournvita we were on our way. Walking was simpler today as our feet were getting used to uneven mountainous tracks and the body was getting used to lugging along extra 6-7kgs on the back. The whole journey today, if you notice on the altitude map, was mostly up and down and then a steep ascent across a mountain and then a steep descent and then back to a smaller ascent till Gala.

Early morning mist was magical and we were so busy watching streams and waterfalls enroute that we did not even realise that we were almost at the top of the mountain. The yatris surprisingly were full of energy, so singing dancing and having fun we reached to our breakfast point. A temporary dhaba served us hot Poori and Aloo almost at a height of 9,500 ft.

We had not yet reached the highest point so the climb just after a heavy breakfast was quite a big ordeal, but laboriously we managed to reach the other side. Now after a steep ascent a steep descent was waiting for us.

Infact after you are ascending for a while and your muscles get used to that motion (well at my age atleast), and suddenly you are asked to do a descend your muscles specially (knee joints) start revolting. So for me descend was proving to be more of a pain than the ascend.

Somehow we reached the bottom of the mountain but there another challange was waiting for us. The approach to a bridge across a rain water stream had been swept away due to the excessive water because of the rains. So now we had to cross this stream on foot. Helping each other we managed and believe me it was not that bad an experience after all. Getting your feet wet in chilling water can be fun.

Now Gala wasnt that far as the trek now was mostly on level grounds. After a walk of about and hour and a half we finally reached to our destination. At the KMVN guest house we were greeted with a refreshing welcome drink and then lunch was served.

We had got our luggage here after 2 days and that to we could have it only for 3 hours or so. So it was time to open pack and waterproof our luggage in the afternoon.

After the daily dose of Bhajans and devotional songs in the evening and dinner it was time to sleep. By now mostly the yatris know whom they are compatible with most so rooms or dormitories are occupied in such a manner that everyone is comfortable with each other.

Another day over!!!

PICS FROM DAY7

Route from Sirkha to Gala


Altitude detail of the route


Pony and porters waiting for their yatris before the start at Sirkha


Different shades of green with over cast conditions


the walk was thru thick forest


It was up and down all thru out


when we start the group is always together


we passed some amazing scenery and beautiful streams
(Tanveer aka tsk if you reading this, I have actually tried emulating your feats during this trek, I think this is the closest I've come to you with this pic, so just appreciate it for my sake )


Yatris enjoying themselves


Then came the steep ascend


Well needed break at the breakfast point.


Still some climb before we reach the top


Notice the stream? We have to reach there


Gala is on the other mountain


Still a stream to cross to reach the other mountain. But the bridge is broken


Take your shoes off time and cross the stream


Luckily the next bridge was not washed off


Gala at a distance


A massive landslide, believe me this was so damn slippery. This is when your foot wear is tested


Finally reached Gala, we were the first ones to reach


Gala KMVN camp



View from Gala KMVN in the evening!!


Next Post: Day8, From Gala to Budhi, 21 kms of pure bliss, fun, excitement and adventure

[amitwlele]

@deky - I have a very stupid question. There is absolutely no road available to reach these places and the only option is the pony? I wonder how those KMVN guest houses were constructed? How was the building material transported?

[ASHISHPALLOD]

Originally Posted by amitwlele

I wonder how those KMVN guest houses were constructed? How was the building material transported?

by helicopter!!! hehehe,

@Dhiraj,
lot of people here are anxiously waiting to unfold entire travel story,
so please zara jaldi jaldi post karo bhai.

[MaserQ]

Another deky special. Your write-up when complete should serve as a comprehensive guide for any one luck to undertake the Yatra. Keep it coming mate!

[deky]

Originally Posted by amitwlele

@deky - I have a very stupid question. There is absolutely no road available to reach these places and the only option is the pony? I wonder how those KMVN guest houses were constructed? How was the building material transported?

Not at all stupid actually. Living in beautifull, serene, fresh and mesmerizing areas far away from the maddening crowds have their dark side too. And the dark side is the lack of amentities that we think are the basic things for our survival.

No roads mean lot of travelling by foot or by using pony's and mules instead of using 2/4 wheelers. So all material be it food, construction like cement or any other thing is transported on foot by porters or on ponies. Imagine a person carrying 30-40 kgs on his head and walking for 20-25 kms a day and that too up and down a hill?? I am sure its not easy at all, but thats how they transport things there.


One good thing that the local government has done is that they have provided shelters on the route where these porters can rest. But boy do they rest??? No, they are faster than us even with things almost as half of their body weight on them

Maybe the following pictures will explain the scenario better

A team of porters transporting electricity poles


A porter carrying stuff on his back. Note:- This picture is on The Nepal side of river Kali but things are transported in the same way here also


Temporary shelters for porters

Originally Posted by ASHISHPALLOD

@Dhiraj,
lot of people here are anxiously waiting to unfold entire travel story,
so please zara jaldi jaldi post karo bhai.

Sorry Ashish, I am trying as hard as possible to complete it, but sorting pictures is taking some time. But rest assured, I am not doing it deliberately!!

Originally Posted by MaserQ

Another deky special. Your write-up when complete should serve as a comprehensive guide for any one luck to undertake the Yatra. Keep it coming mate!

Thank you Sir!!

[amitwlele]

Originally Posted by deky

No roads mean lot of travelling by foot or by using pony's and mules instead of using 2/4 wheelers. So all material be it food, construction like cement or any other thing is transported on foot by porters or on ponies. Imagine a person carrying 30-40 kgs on his head and walking for 20-25 kms a day and that too up and down a hill?? I am sure its not easy at all, but thats how they transport things there.

Now i know where the term "Back Breaking Job" originated from.

This is amazing. I am sure even after so much hardships the people living there would be happier than us city dwellers.

[ASHISHPALLOD]

Originally Posted by deky

I am trying as hard as possible to complete it, but sorting pictures is taking some time. But rest assured, I am not doing it deliberately!!

No problem, i know that its tedious work to post each and every details of such long journey,
we here, better will wait for the posts rather than missing some details about the travel.
Keep going!

[novice_alto]

this is as good as your other kailash trip from Nepal side. I have read that one at least three times in total and every time enjoyed it. This one is also going to my bookmarks. what a lovely place and what great narration and pictures that comes from you.

thanks for sharing.

[sharninder]

Wow, sorry if I missed reading but how long is the trek part exactly ?

[watashi75]

I thought I will resist posting anything until the end. But this suspense is killing!

deky, please resume your adventure story even if they are just 1-2 liners!

[deky]

First of all aplogies for not being able to right the next part. Have been stuck with some work, both at home and office, so not been able to do it. Will upload it before afternoon tomorrow

Originally Posted by ASHISHPALLOD

No problem, i know that its tedious work to post each and every details of such long journey,
we here, better will wait for the posts rather than missing some details about the travel.
Keep going!

Thank you, I am trying to include as much detail that I think is essential for this journey in my travelogue!!

Originally Posted by novice_alto

this is as good as your other kailash trip from Nepal side. I have read that one at least three times in total and every time enjoyed it. This one is also going to my bookmarks. what a lovely place and what great narration and pictures that comes from you.

thanks for sharing.

Three times, thats nice to hear. Hope you like this one also

Originally Posted by sharninder

Wow, sorry if I missed reading but how long is the trek part exactly ?

Following is the trekking part

India Side- One way

Narayan Ashram To Sirkha:13 kms
Sirkha To Gala: 14kms
Gala To Budhi: 21
Budhi To Gunji: 18kms
Gunji To Nabhidhang: 18kms
Nabhidhang To Lipulekh + 1 Km on Tibet side= 10kms

So total walking on Indian Side = 94 X 2 = 188kms

Tibet Side- Kailash Parikrama

Day1: 12 kms
Day2: 18 kms
Day3: 10kms

So total 40 kms on Tibet side

Hence the total journey on foot is 188+40= 230kms!!

Originally Posted by watashi75

I thought I will resist posting anything until the end. But this suspense is killing!

deky, please resume your adventure story even if they are just 1-2 liners!

Cant have 1-2 liners or will be infracted. You have followed my previous log also relegiously so I hope you will do the same this time too. Will post the next part asap tomorrow. Thanks

[wanderernomad]

Another great one. BTW Deky are there any travel restrictions for regular travellers on this route upto the last point (?) on the border with Tibet(?) or Nepal (?).