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Old 6th September 2012, 01:09   #91
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Padum, Zanskar valley, to Srinagar, Kashmir Valley --> 450 km approx, 28 hours [a day-night-day drive] -- slow progress and then got stuck for 5 hours due to Himalayan Car Rally ]
Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-padum-srinagar-450-km-28-hrs.jpg



Though we planned the return drive to Srinagar with a stop at Rangdum and then to Srinagar, ended up doing this big, big overnight mountain journey - a nonstop run from Padum to Srinagar via Kargil. Readers would recall that the clutch pedal though not stuck, was not coming up fully and I had a talk with vardhan harsh and later on with Tanveer at Khajjiar, Himachal. The problem was not so much over there so ignored it, went to the TASC here at Srinagar before the Zanskar drive and they did some adjustment to the spring or something and said everything will be okay. Tanveer said to check it out via drive to some incline road to Gulmarg or outskirts, but then Wazwan meal was waiting and thought most probably everything was okay. But it was not such. By end of our Zanskar trip, the clutch pedal would not come and every time I had to pull it up with my foot. So I had decided that we are going to straight to Srinagar, anytime the clutch spring may go kaput with all the mountain roads of Zanskar and Zoji la in between. At end it was all because of the Rs 100 clutch pedal spring, which was ultimately changed at Srinagar once we reached safely.




The return day rather started well with bright weather and a superficial car wash

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I had heard overnight at the eatery that when the Himalayan car rally comes all entry and exit to Zanskar is blocked for that day. Now after breakfast as we exit, the first of the cars have started rolling.

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The entry to Padum does not fall into competitive section...

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So we are allowed to go as farther as possible and was told by one of the marshall to check with the people manning check points about how much further we can go.

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And our drive continued till we are told to stop and wait

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But not far as we are told to stop in this pasture land. Someone asked me whether we knew that they will be coming but more surprised they were to find a family roaming around in this time in Zanskar
.
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And after sometime the first of the cars from Extreme category came up
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And so too the bikes...

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We remain over there for around 4 hours almost as the last of the extreme category riders go by
.
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Let me clarify that I have no adverse opinion about being stuck for the Car Rally. It happens once a year and I was stuck as my return date went along with their date, I should have kept a tab on it. Also my observation, do not bother to get your name in the Adventure group. Better be in the extreme even if you are a novice. - just a passing personal observation based as seen.





And so it was only by very late evening with the last of the sunlight fading out, that we cross the Drang Drung and Pensila - there is still a whole lot of night drive is left in some of the most rock high mountain roads. We are going to Kargil overnight straight.

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October 16, 2011, as night falls and bitter cold it is we cross Pensi la and drive to the night.

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We stop around this Army camp which incidentally was doing reparing of the Army rally Gypsies, may be around 9 pm beyond Rangdum. There is also a small dhaba here where we get Maggi. It is open so late as the Zanskari drivers coming from Kargil are stuck on this side due to the car rally.

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After sometime, an Army truck heads out, their destination is also Kargil. We were also accompanied by an official car and that too having West Bengal no. plate. We both are going to Sringar direct with an overnight drive to Kargil. We go most of the way together, get separated at Tangole where they took the main road and I the road through the village at dead of then night and we join again before Sankoo. We reach Kargil at 430 am. Catch up an hour of sleep as we wait for the petrol pump to open at 6 am.


On towards Kargil through Zanskar mountain road - all through the night.
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The drive to Srinagar via Zoji la started around 6 am again and we reach Srinagar by around late evening back to our hotel in Badami Bagh area. Fully exhausted, just slump to bed after a hot bath and fast dinner. Next day I go to a TASC for that clutch spring change, a small coil spring that costs all of Rs 100, but that made me drive all through day-night-day for 28 hours.


But then the day after is more significant again. The Expedition enters the decisive phase, it becomes Exploratory again - we move towards the extremes of Kashmir Valley - towards absolutely less travelled lands of Gurez, Lolab and Bangus. And we did not have a clue on how to go about it.



contd...

Last edited by adc : 6th September 2012 at 01:38.
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Old 6th September 2012, 14:01   #92
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Srinagar - Bandipora - Razdan Pass - Kanwalzan - Dawar [Gurez] -- approx 140 km



I have read about Gurez some 2-3 years back through newspaper article, where it mentioned that it is place along with Bangus and Lolab are some of the most beautiful valleys and places of Kashmir that are yet to come into limelight.

Now on searching on net I find no information, calling the JKTDC office they say there is no facilities there and when they heard i am doing a self-drive journey - they would look at me blankly for minutes.



Let us know more about Gurez and its location



Quote:
So where is Gurez located. Dawar is the main village of Gurez sector.
Quote:

The valley of Gurez is located at a distance of around 130-140 kms from Srinagar city, the summer capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Srinagar falls on the National Highway 1-A which is connected by International Airport and national highway network to other parts of the India.

From Srinagar a black top road leads to Bandipora, which forms the main transit point on the journey towards Gurez. Bandipora can also be reached from Baramulla via Sopore. Bandipora is connected to Dawar (Gurez) by sumo as well as bus service.

A black top road leads from Bandipora towards Razdan and then onto Gurez. The 40km (25mile) road stretch, from Razdan to Dawar, is in a bad shape. At Razdan (altitude 11672 ft) one can catch a glimpse of the Harmukh peak, one of the highest mountain peaks located in the Kashmir valley.

The land route to Gurez remains closed for three months of the winter starting from December due to heavy snowfall in the area. Access to the area during this period is maintained through a chopper service. However, there is no regular time table for running of this service. Source

Srinagar to Gurez 140 km approx via Bandipora, J&K and then Razdan Pass

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Since no GPS, using Wikimapia for details. After Bandipora the zig-zag orange line is the roads to Razdan pass and beyond. If needed, click on image for a magnified view.
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After Razdan pass comes the fork and here Kanwalzan is located. One side goes to Bagtore meadows and LOC and the other goes to Dawar of Gurez. The white line is the Indo-Pak LOC which is just a few kilometres ahead
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Dawar village comes up after Kanwalzan, where the JKTDC hut is located. The village lies parallel to LOC line. Straight ahead goes to remote lands of Kabulgali and even to Drass, part of which we travelled the next day.
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This was the info that I had while we left for Gurez on 18th October 2011 -- that it is difficult without permission, that I would have to go to Bandipora and get the permission, beyond Razdan pass is in Army control and the permit is necessary, that there are flare ups and skirmishes that can happen any time with the LOC being just few kms away.


So with that brief idea and with the hotel owner saying that we are going to see parts of Kashmir that most Srinagar people havent seen, early morning we head off towards Bandipora asking directions here and there.

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Now there is no images or photos of what followed was a dramatic day. I enter Bandipora, enquire about DC office and promptly directed by the locals.

Take a white paper, write down details of us three [wife, son and me], and after a thorough airport type search was let into DC office. The gate policeman was bemused and amused no less seeing a family driving out to Gurez from Kolkata.

Inside I am absolute lucky to find DC himself there, he glances over, looks at me, said if Razdan pass closes due to snow [it was already 3rd week of October] and plus there can be sometimes problems also. May be seeing that I am still hesitating and standing over there, here direct me to the DSP police of Bandipora.

The same reaction, said it can be risky, plus yours are small family driving out - directs me to the ASP Police. Now he is a fine young Kashmiri gentleman who lets me sit in his office, write down a complete letter directing that we are to be taken care and the complete way he went forward to go for that permit among his duties was astounding. I had by that time left hope for a permit and suddenly now this was like magical.

The ASP connected with our sense of driving and wandering, and we still remain ever grateful to him for this part of the trip. He also advised that next time come down with a letter from your local police station verifying your residence then it would be much easier.

With that permit in had we were elated like anything. Our journey is on towards Gurez.

This again ranks among those elusive drive permits that we have got till now, either that be of North Sikkim and Gurudongmar or Koyoul and Demchok at Indo-China LAC or this one. None of us have any special connections or such, I just stand there with an application form and things does seem to fall into place!




So with the permit and written letter by ASP Bandipora, we are elated. There is nothing to stop now, from here we knew that there is an absolutely newly constructed JKTDC hut and we could take a chance there or at the circuit house may be. There is a petrol pump, just before entering Bandipora. Fill fuel over there as till 2011 that was the only one.



Beyond Bandipora and up to Razdan or Rajdhan or Rajadhani Pass.
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Razdan pass, this is an image while we were exiting from Gurez.
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Quote:
Razdan pass remains closed for nearly 5-months - the 83-km Gurez-Bandipora road was thrown open for vehicular movement on Saturday.
The 14,000-feet high Razdan pass, which connects Gurez Valley with Bandipora, receives very heavy snowfall during the winter months leading to the closure of road for 5-months.

The road is normally opened for traffic by the end of May, but this year the Border Roads Organization (BRO), Hindustan Construction Company executing Khisen Ganaga Hydro Electric Power project that maintains the road, started snow clearance operations right from the beginning of this month. Source



Beautiful landscapes amazes one on a fine late October morning - I could not click much pictures while going as already late due to the Bandipora permit time and plus was not sure of where to stay in Gurez.

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Razdan Pass crossed and now down towards Dawar, Gurez

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Kanwalzan is the fork where one road goes to Bagtore and another towards Gurez valley

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Again not much pictures as we were late and there was that thing to fix up an accommodation. Late evening we enter Dawar, the main village of Gurez

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Asking around we soon know that there is an absolutely newly constructed JKTDC hut and the caretaker is a fantastic gentleman, Mr Mohammad Ghulam Lone. These are the places where tourism is now being developed and as such this was just completed. He opened up one of the rooms and suddenly all our troubles and ideas about where to stay just go away. As said everything somehow fall into place in our trips!


There is only one eatery out there just on the main road beside the JKTDC. Fantastic people they are, very curious on seeing us and so too were we - knowing their land themselves. The soon have simple yet hearty dish at that night and we retire early in that cozy new JKTDC lodge.

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Tomorrow we have an absolute exploratory journey ahead, see how long we can go parallel to the LOC, parallel to River Kishenganga, towards the mountains of Kabulgali and may be even beyond. There is a reason why we say this has been our best travel till date - we have seen the Pangi valley of Himachal, the Padder and Margan of Kashmir and then the Suru and Zanskar valleys and now again to Gurez and Tulail valley of Kashmir!



contd...

Last edited by adc : 6th September 2012 at 14:29.
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Old 7th September 2012, 13:07   #93
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Dawar, Gurez to as far as possible towards Kabul gali, along and at the Indo-Pak LOC


October 19, 2011 remains a big day in our driving travels done till now. Lands and pictures will mesmerize you, a drive that remains one of the best till now.

And when a great driving day starts with fabulous weather, nothing like that. October 19, 2011, at Dawar, Gurez - after a hearty breakfast and a great talk with the caretaker and those hotel guys, we venture out

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Quote:
The famous Chinese pilgrim, Ou-Kong has mentioned three most important trade routes of the Kashmir, the first route leads over the Zoji La pass to Ladakh and thence to Tibet through Demchok.


The second route leads through upper Kishenganga valley (Gurais valley) and from there to Skardu to join the Gilgit route across Khunjrab pass to Central Asia and Chinese Turkistan.

And the third one being the Jehlum Valley route along Baramulla. About Kishenganga valley-Skardu-Gilgit route, Walter R. Lawrence writes in his famous book, “THE VALLEY OF KASHMIR”, Source
So as the Chinese pilgrim Ou-Kong as said, we had already checked out the first option of Demchok during that fabulous drive beyond Koyoul to the absolute forward check post of Demchok where Indus just about enters as a narrow strip of river. That part starts on page 10 of the Ladakh-Changthang travelogue.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...t-10-a-10.html (Self-Drive Expedition Travel-Ladakh and cold desert Changthang in "off-season" Oct 10)


And so the second option as the Chinese scholar says - in this journey we are going to drive towards and beyond the last village of Indo-Pak LOC, from where River Kishenganga just about enters India from Pakistan. This again is absolute sensitive area like Demchok - like during that drive, here also an Army Major at one of the most forward posts is absolutely zapped to see a family slowly trudging itself towards the mountains of Kabul gali and LOC - but again welcomed us and had great chat with him.

So let the pictures start!


Gurais or Gurez stretches from “Sharda Peeth” in west to “Minimarg” in east and “Drass” on another side. Presently Gurais is divided into three regions

1. From Baghtor to Sharda Peeth. (This part is under the occupation of PaK-Pakistan Occupied Kashmir under the name of Neelum Valley. - Baghtor and Sharda Peeth will be shown on the return journey in this travelogue

2. From Baghtor to Abdullae Tulail. (This part is under Indian Occupation under the name of Gurez Valley). - this we are going now to the last village and beyond towards Kabulgali.


3. From Chorwan (Sandyaal) to Burzil pass. (This part is under direct control of Pakistan as a part of “Northern Areas”. -- of course this is not possible as of now!

Source




Beautiful valley starts and we stop so often as we enter the interiors of Gurez Valley, interior Bandipora, J&K

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Majestic Safari VTT-TMT at Tulail Valley, interior Gurez - always have brought us safely back to home from many an unknown lands.

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And our drive continues...

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The road/track tracks the Kishenganga on one side among absolutely brilliant vistas and landscapes. The LOC is just on the other side, the LOC fence is by River Kishenganga, in fact one drives this side of LOC fence that is there to thwart infiltrators .

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A small village by side of River Kishenganga, interior Gurez, as we

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As we cross some more villages - the drive towards the last village and Kabul gali continues
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We stop so often and more so due to the track maintenance - and we dont mind. One can spend hours gazing around!

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Among the toughs - Safari Dicor 2.2 VTT-TMT

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contd...

Last edited by adc : 7th September 2012 at 13:25.
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Old 7th September 2012, 15:32   #94
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Dawar, Gurez to as far as possible towards Kabul gali, along and at the Indo-Pak LOC ...contd...




Quote:
Chorwan (last village): This leads to another part of Gurais, which is under direct control of Pakistan. It is a way towards Burzil and Kamri passes. From burzil the route connects to Astore-Gilgit And finally to Central Asia. After Burzil we have Desoi planes covered with wild flowers. Burzil Pass gives way to two routes one towards Gilgit and another towards Baltistan-Skardu. In Kargil war infiltrators crossed through this pass and went towards Tiger Hill at Kargil and Mushkow Valley. Source
We soon learn that Chakwali or Chak Nallah is beyond Chorwan, till where we can go to, after talking to a few villagers en route.
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And so our drive continues towards the Chak Nallah, towards the origin of the might Kishenganga where it is just about forming as a stream and entering Gurez from Pakistan

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Tiny villages of Gurez go by...
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And soon we get the first glimpses of Kabul gali mountains, what a sight it is. We have enlarged this and it remains one of our all time favourite pictures of travels done.

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River Kishenganga along the way in Gurez

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If you would watch closely, one can see the LOC fence - of course it constructed inside India the actual LOC lies just on the other side mountain tops
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And still more villages go by towards the journey to Chak Nullah

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As we gingerly go ahead and already knew from some of the villagers that we had talked to en route that the last village is Chorwan, where is an Army camp. As we leave drive slowly, knowing well that Armies of both countries must be watching us [!], we hear a distant whistle kind of sound. I then see an Army jawan at a hill top but absolutely camouflaged, waving at us. Get down, go up to the Major under whom the forward post at LOC is under - and soon after the formalities we had an absolute great talk about travels to Army life out here. Bemused and amused seeing us trudging along this route in late October, he said "okay go up to the bridge, which is being constructed, but dont go beyond - you will be on your own" And in areas like these, I of course follow instructions to the point.


We are now at one of the extremes of our country, India. It is amazing to be here. River Kishenganga is just a small mountain stream as it comes through POK

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And we approach that Army bridge on Chak Nallah.
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Quote:
Chak Nallah: named after Chak Dynasty it’s a tributary to Kishenganga Nallah. Here in the way, Khurgi Nallah also adds some volume to Chak nallah, also some old sculptures of Hindu as well as Buddhist deities were recovered by Indian Army near Barnoi (the first village of Tilail). Source

And this is the bridge that is being done up as the Army Major had told me.

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Last edited by adc : 7th September 2012 at 16:00.
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Old 7th September 2012, 16:34   #95
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

I could not complete some of the picture headings at the end within the editing time - it just shows the place at Chak Nullah where we stopped and turned back for the return journey to Dawar, Gurez.

Last edited by adc : 7th September 2012 at 17:00.
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Old 7th September 2012, 16:55   #96
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

breathtaking ADC thanks for sharing.
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Old 7th September 2012, 17:09   #97
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Quote:
Originally Posted by amitk26 View Post
breathtaking ADC thanks for sharing.
And thank you so much again for this reply!

With no replies and few members and some bots making up the hourly view count , it has been kind of like I am just rambling around or writing out in the Assembly line section!
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Old 7th September 2012, 17:25   #98
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

:-) may be members are absorbed in the pics.

BTW why don't you write a book on your unusual travels.
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Old 7th September 2012, 17:28   #99
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Yeah right, lets give you some break from writing. Great stuff indeed. You do manage superb driving and capture some superb snaps intermittently too. Thats double score. One more thing though, if you do have notes of place, time, distance like hvk posts after each leg, do share. Putting these intermittently may also give you some break by putting a kind of summary to a section/leg covered and leave something to describe about next leg. Now, don't take it too seriously, just wanted to create a break for you, and let me not be too much of an advocate, I am obliged enough to see yours/hvk/laluks detailed logs as they are.

Last edited by parsh : 7th September 2012 at 17:30.
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Old 7th September 2012, 17:40   #100
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

This is absolutely wonderful! I am elated at seeing pictures from places that I have only read about.
These journeys that you do really shows up the kind of resolute and passionate traveller that you folks are. And I am truly indebted to Bambi for allowing his wonderful parents go about their wonderful travails nonchalantly, and riding out the roughshod coolly.

Truly a beautiful travelogue. Ranks up right their with your Demchok trip. Maybe even better, as the scenic beauty is a bonus in Gurez.

Keep travelling. Keep writing. Keep sharing.

Rated 5 stars.

Last edited by aryasanyal : 7th September 2012 at 17:42.
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Old 7th September 2012, 18:31   #101
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

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Originally Posted by amitk26 View Post
:-) may be members are absorbed in the pics.

BTW why don't you write a book on your unusual travels.
Book writing is beyond me. I am more of a one to few lines on top of images - and publishing or anything like requires serious resources of all kinds.




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Originally Posted by parsh View Post
One more thing though, if you do have notes of place, time, distance like hvk posts after each leg, do share. Putting these intermittently may also give you some break by putting a kind of summary to a section/leg covered and leave something to describe about next leg.

HVK is at a different level - there's no comparison and I doubt someone can come up like him in the future even!

Our travel is more an impulsive, what most of the writings that you see is in fact I am searching on the net right now and connecting with my travel. I heard of Gurez in newspapers both for being a less travelled place as well as for gun battles as we hear like in Gurez sector - came to know more about it in Srinagar and more again at Bandipore and again more while going to Dawar and staying over there. And still I am knowing more of the land as I research now on the net while writing.


And with no GPS, I rely on pictures and maps of Wkimapia and mapmyindia for the track followed on travel. This does leave quite a gap in this age in making myself clear about exactly where we have been and/or how we have progressed and gone about in our travel.

A data logger would have been good if I had carried, it does not crank up saying do this turn here turn there but just goes on logging on the track points silently. Next trip to a remote area, I would carry such.


Anyway nothing serious I was cranking about too. Decided to finish up this long pending travelogue before the next trip - only that a few postings was required to give that break plus this page is already too image heavy - the next lot of return pics to Dawar coming up.

Last edited by adc : 7th September 2012 at 18:58.
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Old 7th September 2012, 19:16   #102
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

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And thank you so much again for this reply!

With no replies and few members and some bots making up the hourly view count , it has been kind of like I am just rambling around or writing out in the Assembly line section!
No no adc, we are very very much glued to your travel. This is one of the most amazing and exclusive places that I have ever seen of India ( yes just seen and you have treaded them! WOW!)

For me the chap raasta and the Gurez valley have been the highlights at least so far. Don't know if there are more gems in store for us.

Just one big question - How do you even think of exploring these places. For mere mortals like us, we don't even know it exists!

Keep it coming sir, we are just loving it!

Last edited by girishglg : 7th September 2012 at 19:18.
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Old 7th September 2012, 19:27   #103
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
HVK is at a different level - there's no comparison and I doubt someone can come up like him in the future even!

Our travel is more an impulsive, what most of the writings that you see is in fact I am searching on the net right now and connecting with my travel. I heard of Gurez in newspapers both for being a less travelled place as well as for gun battles as we hear like in Gurez sector - came to know more about it in Srinagar and more again at Bandipore and again more while going to Dawar and staying over there. And still I am knowing more of the land as I research now on the net while writing.


And with no GPS, I rely on pictures and maps of Wkimapia and mapmyindia for the track followed on travel. This does leave quite a gap in this age in making myself clear about exactly where we have been and/or how we have progressed and gone about in our travel.

A data logger would have been good if I had carried, it does not crank up saying do this turn here turn there but just goes on logging on the track points silently. Next trip to a remote area, I would carry such.


Anyway nothing serious I was cranking about too. Decided to finish up this long pending travelogue before the next trip - only that a few postings was required to give that break plus this page is already too image heavy - the next lot of return pics to Dawar coming up.
Yeah gotta agree HVK is entirely different level altogether. Also, he does his homework pretty well on the route to take and risks associated. But you are no less IMO, taking on such unknown travails with the family besides you with lots of unknowns ahead. A lot of things to learn from both of you. I also like these impromptu travails without planning, make way as you go, although a rough idea may be there at the back of mind.

And yeah, a GPS device with auto trip logging would be great idea to carry along on such travails, as you say the turn by turn becomes irritating at times.

All eyes on your next leg.
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Old 7th September 2012, 20:56   #104
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Simply stunning pictures. Seriously you are some sort of an Indian version of Columbus now having traveled these places. As you rightly said, get a GPS tracker better still get an in dash car cam with a GPS tracker in built something like this http://www.ebay.in/itm/Dual-Camera-C...item48472d08cc. I think this will serve both your purpose of documenting key sections of the drive through video as well as the route you took.
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Old 7th September 2012, 21:27   #105
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Default Re: Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October

Dawar, Gurez to as far as possible towards Kabul gali, along and at the Indo-Pak LOC - back to Dawar now


So with a last view of the Kabulgali mountains, we start again for the return journey back to Dawar of Gurez

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_95191.jpg

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9537.jpg


Venture out on one of the tracks leading out from the main road..

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9536.jpg


And we met a group of girls, giggling, very curious seeing a vehicle around these tracks...
Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9534.jpg


The journey continues back along the villages that were crossed.

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9140.jpg

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_91005.jpg


The lone fire station truck of Gurez

Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9544.jpg



A local gentleman also comes on board at one of our stops at a village and we talk about the people out here, the Dard people and their dialect, Shina
Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-gurez-man-returning.jpg


Quote:
Gurez there is a mixture of Dards and Kashmiris, but the former predominate.From Gurez onwards the people are almost entirely of the Dard race. The Dard language i.e. Shina is spoken in whole of the Dardisata, which starts from Tragbal Bandipora and extends beyond Pamir Badakshan, on one side and up to Dras Kargil on other side. On west its boundaries extend up to Peshawar via the Valley of Kagan. Source


And of a few more curiosities, among the many that came along..
Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9552.jpg


So finally again after crossing Tulail valley we reach Dawar, Gurez, back to the TRC

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Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9569.jpg


And that ends one of the great journeys of our drives till now. As usual Sikander hotel of Gurez has something for us at that late October 2011 month. Wonderfully cooked rogan josh and rice.
Self-Drive Exploratory Expedition->Zanskar+Unknown Kashmir-> "off-season October 2011-img_9576.jpg


Tonight at the eatery we met a couple of wildlife enthusiasts, among them a doctor from Jaipur, who were over here in trying to gather data on Hangul or Kashmiri stag. They were however staying at the circuit house, AFAIR.



So there ends another memorable day, tomorrow we go towards the other side of Gurez - the Baghtor meadows and end of road over there. And surprises and pleasant moments never seem to cease!

Last edited by adc : 7th September 2012 at 21:53.
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